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You may want to fact-check that one.

New BSO picked up today, Paint Protection fitted, need to find a bottle carrier that doesn't foul the frame and a colour coordinated tube strap. Suspension tweaks in the morning then a test ride. Orbea Wild FS M20, part Carbon frame, 38 Fox forks, DT Swiss wheels and Shimano 12sp and 4 pot brakes, Bosch motor

Visited RAF Coningsby earlier and was lucky enough to catch a few members of the memorial flight returning to base HwVideoEditor_2021_09_19_210635774.mp4

Arrived home just in time to catch the sunset

I think I need to check what my voltage is to the charge box, I was just thinking that plugging one extension in to another, one a couple of meters and then another 15 metres and then plugging in the meaty wired 3 pin charger with its much thicker wiring. It cannot be good to attach 13A and even 10A extension leads and then plug in the car charging 5 metre lead. I would hate to think I am only getting 220 volts https://www.spenergynetworks.co.uk/pages/voltage_changes.aspx Manufacturers usually allow a further margin of safety and, if the voltage does occasionally fall outside these limits, there should be no adverse effect on your appliances. In the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have learnt something new today !!!!! https://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/knowledge-base/what-is-the-difference-between-uk-voltage-and-european-voltage/ What is the difference between UK voltage and European voltage The voltage used throughout Europe (including the UK) has been harmonised since January 2003 at a nominal 230v 50 Hz (formerly 240V in UK, 220V in the rest of Europe) but this does not mean there has been a real change in the supply. Instead, the new “harmonised voltage limits” in most of Europe (the former 220V nominal countries) are now: 230V -10% +6% (i.e. 207.0 V-243.8 V) In the UK (former 240V nominal) they are: 230V -6% +10% (i.e. 216.2 V – 253.0 V) This effectively means there is no real change of supply voltage, only a change in the “label”, with no incentive for electricity supply companies to actually change the supply voltage. To cope with both sets of limits all modern equipment will therefore be able to accept 230V +/-10% i.e. 207-253V.

Yeah I find them very comfortable even after a 5 hour drive 😉

Of course they can travel, have you not seen all the Motorhomes queing up? They put a sign on your vehicle to alert the pompiers in the event of another fire, that is the only reason that the question is asked during the booking process, it does not say that you cannot travel with an LPG fuelled vehicle.

The bar is installed behind the air intake, so you don’t see it if you don’t know it’s there. It was hard taking good pictures with the high beam on. But you get an idea of how it looks.

Hi All, New to this forum, new to skodas so wanted to join up here and get some much needed knowledge on the cars. Yesterday i purchased this lovely bit of kit 2004, Octavia VRS Estate, completely standard and needing some TLC Interestingly it came with a tilt and slide sunroof, something i've not seen before whilst looking through the classifieds as well as a few other nice bits and bobs, electric mirrors with heating element, full working trip (i wonder how accurate they are) 90% Skoda service history, brand new clutch, cambelt and waterpump done last year, so all in all, pretty decent. As it goes, touching 20 years old, few things need doing, such as: Fixing the god awful creak coming from the front of the car, plan to do a whole poly bush upgrade over the course of the next few months Fixing the rear passenger side window, can hear the motor going up and down but no window movement, bit weird?? Fix the boaty ride by fitting coilovers Rear spoiler needs painting, definitely had a rather rough life looking at it Overall health check, having had a few 20vt's in the past i know its not uncommon for hoses to split and despite this being factory fresh, i am 110% convinced i have a boost leak somewhere so i need to book in for a smoke test Alignment - not sure if this is part and parcel to the creaking and worn bushes but the car drives straight and true, the steering wheel is just out of alignment which is annoying Replace the cassette player deck with a nice android touch screen double din unit, going off ebay prices can be done for sub £100 which is nice and will massively bring the car into the modern era of bluetooth connectivity and sat nav In the long run im looking to take this 20vt further than my previous ones, always stalled at the 270/280 bhp and 300ft lbs mark due to rods. All being well i plan on doing the following aswell as the above r-tec remap, heard very good things about nicky badger 5 tip ebay 'wellycooler' intercooler and piping Cat back exhaust, twin pipes however not the oval, not too keen on the shape New DV, upgrade to a forge one A decent cold air intake (will take recommendations) Remove and blank off the SAI Bypass the N249 Valve Adding a catch can into the PCV system Upgrade dog bone mount and then stick a set of forged rods in there, granted this will leave me still cutting about with a k03s but once all the build up work is done i'll be able to save up for a gt28 or similar Im not looking for silly power however something in the region of 330-350bhp and close to or over 400ft/lbs Thankfully alot of the above can be done for not alot of money, so im itching to get my teeth stuck into it All in all, very happy with it, the mrs is yet to come around but hopefully the above can change that.

Hi Everyone really glad I've joined up. Seems like a great place to share opinions and advice on all things Skoda.

Thanks guys

Viaduct over the tweed

A photo of each would help Rusty. 👍

That’s because they’ve been fully and expertly trained to be Customer Dis-service and Dis-engagement for at least 10 years. It’s a shame.. When Skoda was trying to establish itself as a “proper” manufacturer in the early 2000’s, (we’ve owned Skoda’s since 2003) the whole organisation and most of the dealers were fantastic; they really went the extra mile - and often beyond it - to keep customers happy, getting problems solved quickly some of the time at no cost to the customer, even when it was out of warranty (the whining diff was replaced FOC on our 1.6 Octy is a case in point) and because of this, they were able to use owner-drivers as an extension to the very positive corporate PR campaign. However, as Skoda became more successful, that ethos soon disappeared and they finally became just like any other manufacturer. Actually, they’re probably worse; there’s no acknowledgement of emails, no follow-up, no single person owning an issue and now, stupidly, they couldn’t give a hoot if you bad mouth them to friends and family. Sad really as the product is great but they just don’t care, as 80% of sales are now in the corporate market and probably 70% of those are via leasing or contract hire. After my terrible experience with two dealers last year AND two dealers this, I’ve given up on them and will just be using a fairly local, excellent independent VW specialist.

I told you that you were worrying too much! 😉

The Bolero doesn't have inbuilt BT. Instead, BT is handled by a separate module which is normally under one of the front seats (passenger side??). To start with, I'd be checking to see if a BT module is fitted

Hi Guys, I did the deed today. After it stopped raining I went out with the spray bottle and sprayed all the seals. Then washed the car. I used the edge of a plastic scraper to gently scoop the worst of the moss from the seals and used the toothbrush to remove the fine stuff. I squirted more water to flush out the debris. I then opened and closed all the windows and cleaned the dirt smeared on them. Job done.

I agree. My specific question was about what wheels would fit over 288mm brakes, and this was the only thread I could find with info. I wanted to check before I fit 4 new tyres tomorrow( stick with the 195/50 r15’s (preferred) or go to the vrs 16” wheels). We got a bit carried away..

1st outing today, very different to the hard tail 😄 I need to fine tune the saddle height and slide it back a touch, front of thighs aching. Suspension set to middle diddle for now Tyres were too hard, stopped to let some out which went too low, popped some back in and seems about right with tubes, tubeless when I return from France late October. Ran mainly in eco mode so still got a decent workout HR wise. I need to get used to the sudden kick when on tight single-track as you hit the pedals, very off-putting at first.

For future reference, it would be better to ask for such info in the Mk1 Fabia subforum, as your profile and engine code suggest that's what you have. Either in a relevant thread there, or by starting your own. Tagging onto this one risks confusion for future readers expecting mk2 Fabia info.

This is not necessarily the case as you would also need to change the boot lock, remove the soft closer, change coding, change the ball joints and buy gas struts. New aftermarket or good used struts can be had quite cheaply. I retrofitted the power tailgate to my Octy and those struts are hella expensive but even then I got used ones for a not unreasonable price. I was tripping over used Superb struts from £60 a side and the power bootlid is such a boom IMO it’s worth it.

It's good that your engine survived that. No thanks to this design decision:

Just as a quick update for those interested - I attached an ODB2 reader to my car to check what was triggering the coolant light each time and it turned out the car was actually getting very hot (~130 degC), so not just the bottle sensor on this occasion. This was diagnosed as the thermostat sticking so not allowing the coolant to circulate - I've now had this swapped out and the car seems to be running much better. Thanks everyone for their help too.

That’s brilliant- thank you very much. Helps me out greatly. The car is an ex heavy smokers car, and having driven it the last few days, I’d really like to change the whole interior, and knowing I can fit a mk1 interior helps me out a lot. (I quite fancy a VRS interior too....) big thanks...

I was wrong in thinking it was the same model, but the Duster gets a good write up in this week's Express too. Positive nod to LPG as well:

Errrr… they show up for me. Besides, I wouldn’t trust carwow as authoritative on what is and isn’t available. They do a pretty good job, especially with option combos / rules, but they definitely aren’t infallible.

Oh for a large fish. https://tenor.com/bxuOk.gif

@tonypr Best ask Newcastle Skoda's Dealer Principal why an employee is saying you can not have the order number.

None of the above; how do the active ingredients get through the combustion process to where you're trying to put them?

Was the battery management system updated using a diagnostic tool (e.g. VCDS) that a new battery was installed? If the battery was the same type (AGM/EFB) and the same capacity (Ah) all that needs to be done is to change one digit in the serial number field.

16 inch Alpine or 15 inch? I was getting near 4 miles per kWh but then decided to do my first full power test up a dual.carriageway hill and 84 mph came up quickly, not as quick as the 150 hp octy but quicker than the 90 up Clio or Davis despite it's 1600 kg running weight. I see the cash still saying full regen is not available as battery full, battery says 95 % full after 18 miles. I am suspecting one can charge the battery to about 102 % of nominal but it shows 100% for six miles rather than dropping 1% per two miles as I expect.

As Electric prices in the UK and probably everywhere go high then battery storage makes even more sense for getting energy at off peak times. Battery storage at EV charging hubs and having your vehicle or vehicles topped up at lowest possible prices at home or workplace chargers. It has been made out by energy providers that you help balance the grid while charging during the off peak periods, time will tell how low the cost per kWh can stay compared to the rest of a day / night

You have to have an update at your dealer it didn’t have a protection program deleted at the end of production so stops you being a primary user and having Skoda connect. Could take up to 5 hours for the fix. Resetting will not work

On Thursday I upped the tyre pressures on my Michelin Alpin 6 from the 34psi I have had them at since last November and instantly could see that made a difference of energy use. Around town 3.1 miles kWh before increase was up to 3.6 having driven just a couple of miles. Done 300 miles since and easily that slight increase in pressure has been helping get a bit more range.

Not "EV" marked tyres on the Zoe I picked up yesterday. The Usual Primacy 4s in Heavy Duty/Load spec. All 4 tyres set to 36 PSI by the dealer so I corrected those fronts to 38 PSI to help prevent torque ripping and outer edge wear that is associated with the lower tyre pressures. Left the rears at 36 rather than drop to 33 psi as the sticker states. No advised tyre pressure for when one is carrying several people plus luggage, again a bit odd, hence 36 seems OK or maybe even 38 in the back tyres too if the ride is not too firm. Some more miles today and continue to think about some winters maybe in the 15" size 185 width, not sure whether they will be All Seasons or full winters, probably All Seasons, keep those nice Diamond cut OE rims in pristine condition.

Fronts are now on. Annoyingly I couldnt for the life of me find a 21mm spanner that would work to get the caps off. Meant that I had to go and take the wiper scuttle and all off the car to get access to put a spark plug socket on the top. Which meant I had to go out and get a wiper arm puller, as mine had seized on badly. All 4 wheels off the ground. Was going to replace the rear springs if I finished the fronts quick, that didnt happen. Struts were such a PITA to get out, drivers side was the worst overall by far. Got very thick and cut the spring to remove the shock assembly. Not very Happy I had to resort to that but at this point I was at the point of no return. Needless to say the old shocks were FAR past their prime. Both sides went on eventually. As ever the drivers was a massive pita to get back on. Strangely, the passengers came out smooth as butter, and went back in smoother still. Back on the ground now, all tightened up. Caps sitting flush with the turret now. Not a great picture, but it represents how the top mount was sitting before. Back on the ground and its sitting nearly the same as before, which I like! Passengers seems a bit higher than the drivers by a hair so I'll adjust that next day, no biggie. Driving it its a lot nicer. More comfortable AND more responsive. It even tracks dead straight! So far it seems well worth the hassle, but by god it was not an easy job. Heres hoping the front doesnt fall off.

This isn’t answering your question, however if you haven’t already I would start with inspecting the loom between the car body and the tailgate for damaged wires.

Exactly, it's nonsense.

Now moved to correct section.

@TheWanderer I pretty much agree with @Defenderben with the note that the fuel level may not have sorted itself out right until you leave the car overnight.

Spot on - I've used Victoria Garage for nigh-on 16 years now, never let me down and can fix anything. My mother lived just round the corner from the garage and they'd come round to fix flat batteries, or replace a tyre, or unseize the brakes in wet weather... service above and beyond. Wouldn't go anywhere else!

Then sadly it is via the Menu button sorry. In your MIB system, Mirrorlink is a bit of an after thought by VAG.

Ok, so after some searching on the internet I could not find anywhere a guide for changing the rear windows on a 07 plate roomster. So forgive me if someone has done this, but I thought I'd write it up for the next person looking for it in case it comes up on their Google searches! How to change the rear window of a Skoda Roomster. (Manual Window) Remove the front half of the door handle sliding in a tool at the back to release the clip, then easing from the back upwards to release the clips. Under here you will find 2 * T30 screws which need removing. At the very bottom of the door you will find a T15 (I think) screw which also needs removing. This is all the screws for the door. Last to remove is the winder handle for the window. Holding the winder in your right hand use your left hand to grab the ring of plastic in-between the handle and door and pull in the opposite direction to which the handle points. This will move about quarter of an inch and allow you to pull the handle off the splined shaft Now to remove the door card start from the bottom left to pop the clips that hold it in. They are made of the worst plastic ever and easily break so be prepared to have some extras to hand. Once all the clips are released, you will need to release the door opener cable (unclip white clip then slide toggle out of holder) and the speaker cable connector hidden in foam. Bring the window all the way down and remove the inside and outside trim along the bottom of the window opening. Next get a.finger into the rubber round the 2 sides and top and carefully remove. This will allow you to see on the vertical edge towards the rear of the car 3 * ph1 screws. Undo ready to remove the external black trim strip that runs vetically above the door handle. Now on the inside of the door behind this strip remove the 2 rubber grommet blanks that hide 2*t30 screws that hold in the door handle. Carefully unhook the pull rod as you pull this away and remove trim strip at the same time. This gives you enough room to slide the window towards the rear of the car/door to lift it out once you've undone the carrier. On the inside of the door about 2/3rds of the way up there is a rubber grommet blank that as you wind the window up will allow you to see the plastic clip that carries the bottom of the window. Now unlike on my fabia, my wife's roomster did not have a bolt but 2 plastic roll pins. Thankfully my wife had already smashed the window so I just had to retrieve these from inside the door. Before the next step ensure the carrier is all the way down. Now to get the window in, holding the glass on the outside of the door drop in with the edge as close to the rear as you can and as you go down slide forwards slightly If you need to you can undo the 4 T30 screws that hold the winder mechanism plate in to help see if you're landing in the carrier then slide in the roll pins /whatever magic fittings your door came with! Refit in the reverse of above and make good! I appreciate that a) there are no photos with this but I realised I should do this AFTER I'd finished the job b) it's not the best guide in the world but it's my first time, maybe update it with some more in the future! But the takeaways from this are to swap the windows you need to strip the trim and handle off! What a palaver.

So once my friend picked up his Hyundai we did a comparison on the way back. Bottom line is that a bigger battery is not always that much better The result surprised me. that uch

That's the last date that the new one from that box can be fitted as a brand new belt. Shelf life, not belt life.

Is there an App button on your display? This will take you back to Android Auto.

As above - 1.9tdi discontinued 2010 (possibly at the time DPFs became mandatory) !.9tdi produced oodles of torque and was very economical and reliable, if a little gruff. Tinworm not an issue on Roomster I consider my Roomster Scout 1,9tdi the best car I have owned in 50 years of motoring. I still regret selling it.

Hi just found this forum after a first week of ownership of my new Karoq. Really happy with it so far and just been on a wee holiday through the Scottish Borders outing on 700miles

I know the thread's been hanging around but I got the app and a VW adaptor from ebay for £4.75, I think its very handy. A couple of times when out I've found it hard to find exactly where I parked - got a bit lost after walking up a big hill and came down a different way, and once in a strange town when I just couldn't find the car park I'd used. The app has a simple function showing where you parked, and offers to open a map to show you how to get back. It also has a host of other useful car info inc body and interior colour names, date first registered, mileage, tank range, service info and if you want to monitor fuel use / cost per mile just input cost of fuel - the app knows how many litres and does the rest. Anyone use any other features? Anyone got the app? Anyone out there? Hello?

Buttertubs are deep holes in the ground and not visible from the car - there is a small parking area on the left heading south to north so you can have a look. I'd drive it both ways - its not a long road. Whilst you are in the area, I can recommend the road from Hawes to Ingleton a great drive and you will pass Whernside and Ingleborough but, more spectacularly, the Ribblehead Viaduct in front of Whernside. This road as well as Buttertubs pass were favourites with the Top Gear presenters - Clarkson loved the Dales. Have fun.