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I think you're talking about this pump - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/14762024 (I think this is the secondary water pump that circulates coolant after you turn the engine off) This is unlikely to be the culprit for a coolant leak, it'll be the main £350 pump that's failed (or more specifically, the housing of which will have developed a leak). If you're able to buy genuine VW Group part of these - https://www.awesomegti.com/ea888-gen-3-water-pump-repair-kit/ - for £80, I suggest you buy as many as you can and start selling them on eBay for £250, you'll make a fortune.

A 65 plate Octavia is almost certain to have a MIB2 infotainment unit (depends on production date not registration date) and hence no CD player - which IIRC was only in MIB1 units.

Some serious thread drift here! Anyway................had the CrossClimate+ tyres fitted today, all good so far, they seem to install more confidence than the cheapo tyres that were on it before. Suspect once they are scrubbed in they will be way better in cold / wet / damp / wintry conditions.

Was great to get out and about before the sunset this evening

Looks great 😁 must be nice to have it back. My new gear knob and gaitor arrived from China today looks really good for 9 quid! Got that and the VRS wheel to install at the weekend 😊

She lives, and lives well. New parts arrived at 11am exactly this morning, runs with a little bit of fire under it's backside now instead of feeling limp and a pain to drive. I'm a happy man. My headlights aren't that yellowed, it's just really, really cold in my part of the world.

@J.R. I bet it is brilliant at what it was built to actually do. My one drove perfectly well on road, but it was not on Portal Axles, it went places the RR Bobtails on Portals did though.

start with the basics first before spending money unnecessarily ...

Check all pipework for splits and other damage, especially at connection points.

I can also read from your description another fault I once created, I had not correctly inserted and clipped into position one of the solid to flexible turbo hose joints albeit on the MK2 by then, it did not hold boost for long enough to detach or be noticeable in the lower gears but in the higher ones and at higher speeds it was exactly as you described. I was faced with a drive back to France but on a dual carriageway it could barely maintain 70mph on the flat, the slightest incline was like you described.

breather hose being split is defo not going to help you .. this can basically implode on its self causing breathing problems with in the system ... fix that first

Hi all, As the title, new to the Skoda brand and this group. Discovered the group when I first started to look for something to replace our previous vehicle, as I'd always liked the look of the Octavia estate. The forum helped me to decide on what model and spec I wanted, so thanks. I've always had Land Rovers, Discovery 1, then 2 x Discovery 2's. Always worked on them myself, as anyone who knows Land Rovers will attest to, you get to know them intimately! 🙂 Chap that I work with kept pestering me to sell him my D2, so we took the plunge of going without and sold it to him. I took a while researching and decided on the Octavia TDI VRS, luckily found one with a few extras like powered boot and panoramic roof. I hopped on the train and headed North to look at it and came home in it, lucky really as the train fare home would have been double the one way journey! I managed to get it all sorted before we went away for a week in it for half term holiday, we covered over 400miles during that holiday. It didn't miss a beat until the last day when the sat nav (Columbus) didn't want to know about touching the screen, seemed like really bad lag. Anyhow, after once again consulting this excellent forum, I found that it was a common issue with a cold system, which seemed to tally as it worked fine once the car warmed up a bit. I eventually found a firmware release, mine was on 0360 and the latest I found was 0411, I updated it and that seems to have cured that little issue. Currently awaiting the parts to install the rear USB ports near the air vents. Based in North Bedford, so if you see a blue Octavia estate then give us a wave! 🙂

Hi and welcome to Briskoda!

Hi and welcome to the forums. Glad to hear you're enjoying your Octy!

They can be brought from ebay about £10 I did this with mine.

My digital instrument panel was replaced last week, & some software fixes applied. Went on holiday in the car almost immediately, so done over 200 miles since, and all seems well. The mph/kph issue is fixed. Getting used to the car again as I only had it for a few weeks before it went in for repair, 6 months ago. The only irritations now are the slightly over zealous lane assist, & the satnav still believing most of urban UK is 'offroad'. All my system information parameters are as before. Had call from the dealer a couple of days after picking up the car to say they have just received notice of a few more recalls for software patches so booked in to do that soon. Starting to enjoy driving the car I thought it was when I bought it. Hang on in there folks.

I believe JR was actually referring to homologated rim diameter and width and tyre width / profile and speed rating, as opposed to a specific manufacturer and tyre...

Mine does this and I can condensation blowing out when I give it full beans and red line it. All fluid levels spot on, doesn't use anything, I just think the exhaust hold moisture from lots of short journeys.

Tyres, especially in uncommon sizes often only come in one speed rating per brand, the volumes are low enough, so no advantage in making both a 210 and a 240km/h version. You can go up in speed rating without question. Even without the variations, probably going to struggle to find anyone who actually stocks the low volume unusual sizes, so internet is your friend as going to have to be ordered anyway. The wheel spin is partly due to using summer tyres in colder weather, it seems modern compound summer tyres are poor below about +10c in wet. Clearly in UK we have few months of cold rain each year, so that is why people are changing to all-seasons (ideal for about -5c to +25c), or buying second set of cold weather (winter) wheels and tyres which are even better. Not going to bore you with a physics lesson about rubber compounds, but can’t really make a tyre that is ideal when cold (too hard) or ideal when hot (soft and sticky and wears quickly). For 215/50 R18 my suggestion for all year tyres would be (no particular order as prices and availability vary) Goodyear vector 4 seasons Generation 3 Vredestein Quatrac Pro Pirelli Cinturato all season SF2 Continental all season contact @smipx your choices T001 and primacy etc are summer touring tyres, better suited to doing the miles on the Autoroute de soleil in high summer, designed to work temperatures more like +10c - +40c, than soggy UK in Autumn. If you are wondering why manufacturers fit summer touring tyres, it is because official WLTP tests are done at +23c so they minimise fuel consumption at test temperature. Of course average day and night temp in UK are nothing like +23c

Spoke to Kate this morning and she confirms the Virtual cockpit is being replaced sometime next week so looks like the solution tested by @snealis the one going ahead.

I have No news really. Just fill with V Power and enjoy I have new wheel centre caps will fit when I get wheels refurbished

Much less traffic on the Autoroutes with the exception of the mad exodus for les vacances, you can maintain a cruising speed mile after mile without being slowed up or having to accelerate to avoid being boxed, in 15 years I have only come to a stop in a tailback twice. 549 miles nearly all on Autoroutes and I'm guessing without any holdups, in my part of the UK you would be lucky to get 10 miles like that. The above does not include Paris & le périphérique.

I'll partially recant my last. The fault lies with whoever did that bodge job on the sensor wiring.

Mate, don't over think it... These are the ŠKODA Genuine Part Numbers (for cross reference); (front rotors) –5Q0615301G (rear rotors) –5Q0615601E (front pads) –5Q0698151K (rear pads) –3Q0698451D (Front 340x30mm / Rear 310x22mm)

Apply your autoglym bug remover onto a piece of kitchen towel and stick or lay it on panel. It should help it soak.

End of the day - facelift or not, no matter the trim level, it is not something that can b simply enabled via VCDS or OBDEleven. It's different part number. It's a different cluster/unit. There r two versions - Basic and High. This applies to both Inner (on the boot) and Outer units. U need the High version to have the strip of the Inner light up.

Well, for sure that won't help. As for the throttle, IME this works, with maybe a slightly jerky pickup, or throws a CEL and puts the car into limp mode.

Got £4K off which is really good at this moment in time. Love Skoda but this on on the next level. Had to take a FWD Really pleased for you - Enjoy it

The title of this article sums up exactly how I feel. I just A.) Can't afford one B.) Can't figure out what I'd do with it https://www.carthrottle.com/post/you-can-now-buy-a-suzuki-jimny-with-portal-axles-and-yes-you-want-one/

I get this on my Amundsen and it's a 2016 without any android auto or Skoda connect. Same road quite often, red line on the Nav and the vocal warning, but no traffic/congestion to be seen at all. I just plough on. I'm sure this is coming from RDS system that's not been updated once traffic has eased.

Next time it happens cycle the ignition, if it picks up power even if only for a few seconds then its the vanes and/or the actuator sticking on the turbo, time for a Mr Muscle enema!

"4987 ATF" is the tool your looking for mate and you'll need a syphon/pump, It can be syringed in but takes forever. You've emptied the gearbox oil which is 1.7 litres of "G 052 171", The mechatronic sump is a spline style bolt and requires 1 litre of "G 004 000" if you wish to change that too. Not a hard job to be honest, I done mine at 50k.

Yes. you guessed correctly To be fair i bragged a lot due to the delay : ) We had plans to travel with the car and the wife made my life hell due to the fact the car was not ready when they promised : ) So i said i want tires at least(rims were not included) The shades did you add them aftermarket? i didnt order them but the glass is darkened.

That's the matrix on auto mode, when it's full calibrated it's brilliant, but i'm still not convinced enough to leave it on permanently as it's a little inconsistent coming into towns using amber streetlights.

we got due to the delay winter tires as a bonus : ) the PPF film sounds nice, but ours has a full cover and they will repaint it if needed for free(as long as I pay 1000 Pounds per year)

Hi folks. Just sold our vrs diesel back to the dealership. Now waiting for a nice new mk4 vrs petrol to make its way over here fully equipped with lots of toys. Not the only car in the family but definitely a favourite. Love the dsg box - it compares very well if not better than our other cars. Looking forward to reading up on the info in here 😁

A bumper protector by the boot Tyres that can be used below about +9c in wet (+4c in dry), the default summer tyres are not suitable for use in UK all year round, as don’t grip in cold rain, sleet, snow, frost, or if cold enough for road to be salted (and who wants to be doing 70mph on a motorway with poor grip)

Mine is always on the 'sport display' with the MPG/range shown

^ Yep. Newton's first law says "If you can keep the speed constant you'll use much less diesel, weight loading almost irrelevant; it's only the aero drag and mechanical frictional losses you have to overcome" (paraphrasing into context).

It's looking good! You could do with a set of centre caps by the looks of it. These take a wee while but the older style badge ones I bought were good.

It's common these days, if you google for almost any brand (Skoda, VW, Audi, BMW, Ford etc etc) and headlight misting you'll get plenty of results... It should come and go depending on the weather etc. Bit more from the TPI: General reasoning • With the headlamps there are often complaints about “steamed up lenses”. Because of the headlamp circulation system air from the outside flows through the headlamps. • The steaming-up of the headlamps can be compared with the misted windscreen, which is, however cleared by the “defroster vent”. • Condensation of humidity on lens occurs also during the heating up phase when the engine warms up the rear side of the headlamp and the lens is simultaneously cooled by the ambient cold air. • The steaming-up is an optical phenomenon, which doesn't affect the headlamp function (light performance) and doesn't lead to corrosion in the headlamps. • Steaming up due to parking in humid environment (affected are mostly both headlamps): when heat is generated by the engine and the front part of the headlamp is simultaneously cooled down results in a temperature difference causing the condensation of humidity inside the headlamp. The steaming up can be already less intense already after the vehicle has arrived at the workshop. This can be used as an example of the environmental influence. • The open ventilation system (needed for pressure compensation) creates different “climate zones” in the headlamp; very warm areas, where the lens is warmed up by the light and relatively cool areas where the lens is cooled down by the slipstream. • Under these circumstances, water condensation may occur on the inner side of the lens at high air humidity and temperature differences between the inside of the headlamps and the outside (sometime when driving) especially in cold seasons and/or wet weather. • This can happen e.g. after a car wash, steam cleaning of the engine or the front end, overnight temperature changes and so on. • By using lenses made of clear glass this phenomenon is easier visible than on lenses with patterns. • This phenomenon is physically related and can therefore occur on every headlamp, fog lamp or tail light. • Inform the customer that information concerning steaming up of the headlamps is to be found in the Owner´s Manual in the Chapter " Headlamps". Further reasoning for halogen / xenon headlamps/lights: • If the headlamps are steamed up, the light discharge surface of the lens should be free after the dipped light is on for 5 - 10 minutes with sufficient ventilation (country road/motorway). The remaining surfaces may still be steamed up after the journey. • The demisting time of the headlamps depends on the ambient temperature, vehicle speed (the headlamp is faster ventilated at higher temperatures) and the relative air humidity. Further reasoning for LED / Full LED headlamps/lights: • Lights with LEDs do not warm up the light cover even when they are switched on, as the proportion of infrared rays is zero in their light. • Ventilation and the resulting demisting is ensured in this case only by the difference of pressures (caused by the difference of temperatures), occurring during a longer drive. The more the engine compartment is warmed up, the easier the humidity leaves the headlamp through the diap

Yes, it'll leave the Sat Nav doing it's thing on the infotainment, it'll just return the 'Maxidot' display back to it's previous screen - in your case, speed.

Tomorrow at the earliest, I paid extra for 24hr delivery and the part was dispatched this morning. It'd be ideal to have a spare Fabia (or similar) kicking about for emergency use such as these times.

7 months and 2200 miles and I still look forward to every trip in our 1.0 DSG Kamiq SE. In D it wafts along. Simply superb. If there's anything I'm not 100% with it's the DSG's slight hesitation when pulling away, as Kental mentioned, and the infuriating stop-start function. A potentially deadly combination when attempting to nip into a line of moving traffic or joining a crowded roundabout. I'm wise to it now but early on caused a few heart fluttering moments.

Hi All, I went for an Amazon cable called "Duttek USB C to Mini USB Cable, Mini USB to Right Angle USB C Cable, Right Angled USB 3.1 Type C Male to Mini USB Male Converter Cable Cord for Digital Camera and More Mini USB Devices 0.26M/10INCH" - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075M4CQHZ And I used it to fit my Nextbase camera as shown in the pictures. It tucks in nicely behind the rear view mirror and is fairly central below the lane assist camera. Hope this helps, Mark

The only two things I would be interested in are : 1. Checking that the doors are locked 2. Starting the heating up remotely in winter. Given 2. isn't available in the UK, I'll live without.

So when you turn the key to try to start, does the engine turn over or does it not do anything? If it does nothing, one thing you could try is wiggling the key while its turned into the start position. If you then get action, you probably need to replace your ignition switch. If that does nothing, it might be worth checking the earth leads from the engine for damage and/or corrosion. If your engine does turn over but takes a long time to fire, you might have a fuelling issue.

Been using it for a while... wish more people would cotton on tbh, it's very good.

Disappointed! For this price I would really expect a rainbow color.

Thanks for this. It seems then that you get a very good deal in terms of equipment with the First Edition. Perhaps that is to entice people to buy into a new car that often experiences teething problems. Once those are identified, Skoda spec less generously for roughly the same price. Interesting.