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If i read the news correctly this morning, then there was a 10 second penalty (but no real penalty) for an effective brake test, including actually applying the brakes. IMHO (and I'm not a steward) it's not enough as it allows RB to go into the next race ahead, so if neither finish, Max wins. Bearing in mind that almost happened, then I'd say one point off, so Max had to finish the next race to win the championship would have been a suitable penalty. As it stands it's another (IMHO) dangerous move, which hasn't really had any penalty for it.

So the rain stopped and I thought the thread was worth updating with an FYI (and title change), as it's now done. To do it on a 2.0TDI the following are needed: (This may vary depending on the car, so it is entirely at your own risk - if you're unsure of what you're doing/why or any safety issues, then don't do it and go to a garage). A new battery (Mine was an 096 AGM to replace the OEM 096 AGM) A 10mm spanner A 13mm socket with a long extension (to get to the bottom of the battery). Petrolium jelly or other similar protective lubricant (probably not required for modern cars) Pair of suitable nitrile etc gloves. Suitable Eye/body protection (The battery may be full of acid) Undo the black negative terminal and place it carefully out of the way (I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything). Undo the red positive teminal and place it carefully out of the way (Again I placed it in a ziplock plastic bag to stop it touching anything) Remove battery surround (Fabric type thing) by gently pulling upwards and wiggling etc as needed. If there is a protective cap over the negative terminal, pull the part attached to the battery upwards to remove. (It is in two holes) Use 13mm socket to undo the bolt at the front side of the battery (At base of battery near positive terminal) and remove the bolt/plate taking care not to drop them into the engine bay. Slide the old battery forward on the tray until it's released and remove it from the car. Fit the new battery by placing it on the tray then sliding it into place (May require a wiggle) Replace the battery plate and bolt, screwing the plate down, so the battery is securely held in place Wiggle the battery surround (Fabric type thing) back into the correct place. Clean up the battery connections removing any dirty grease and replace with clean suitable grease. (This is probably not required on modern cars - see later posts) Refit the red positive lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Refit the black negative lead and do it up (Making sure to keep all tools well clear of the other battery terminal/metal) Push the negative protective cap back into the holes by the negative terminal to cover it Close the lid of the battery surround and make sure everything is securly in place. Next you need to code the battery, so will need VCDS or another suitable tool. Again if you don't know what you're doing, just pay a garage to supply, fit and code the new battery. Code the new battery using VCDS under modules / CAN gateway (19) / Adaptations (10) and then selected the correct values for your new battery in the categories below: IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity, IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology, IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer, IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number, My OLD Battery Capacity 68 Ah Technology Fleece Manufacturer JCB Battery Serial Number 1111111111 My NEW Battery Capacity 70 Ah Technology FLEECE Manufacturer YBX Battery Serial Number 1111111112 (incremented by 1) Check your new battery specs, as it may well be different to mine, for example EFB instead of AGM, different capacity/manufacturer etc) and make sure you pick the correct values for your new battery. I then took a very short drive for about 100 yards to sort out the ABS sensors all being implausable and warnings to go out. The tyre pressure warning system complained it had lost all values, so they were checked and that reset. Finally I auto-scanned the car, checked for faults and cleared any fault codes related to the low battery. All seems fine and it started instantly so I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days to make sure the battery has solved the original issue. Regarding the old battery and why voltage (with no load) isn't really useful in deciding if it's dead, it's still at a constant 12.7V without load. Stuck it back on the CTEK now to see how long it takes to get back to float charge (Shouldn't be long if it's healthy) and then I'll get it load tested in 24 hours to see what's left and if that is the likely candidate.

Not wishing to rain on your parade but do be sure to cross reference any information you get, from anywhere, but especially databases as the originals can have errors and omissions which can be copied and often added to. Check the engine type you have, there might also be numbers on stickers and plates on your car. Also check the part is correct to the engine you have. It's not unknown for even garages to fit wrong parts based on the databases they use. And never assume a part fitted to your car is original correct just because it's fitted and working. Good luck.

+1 for the philips +130's. Got them in both dipped and main beam. Obviously nothing like the white an LED can achieve but noticibly brighter and whiter than stock while keeping the proper beam pattern.

It's is just the way he is - different - and I wouldn't want him to change.

Sorry George, just my dittery-ness then, I didn't know it had changed either. I left my filter 18 months (was completed in October by previous owner) and the engine was choked to hell. £4.65 later and my car was running good. So was just recommending based on personal experience.

Just swap out the crank sensor and ignore these thread spamming postcount monkeys...

Letters in front of engine number on your V5c.

Same here. Was out in the Heathfield Industrial Estate in Ayr and I was admiring the reflection of the headlights in the front window of Halfords before I set off.

Yes, they're prioritising those who ordered the optional helicopter landing pad. Did you not tick that option...?

It certainly is, I've probably driven more than a quarter of a million miles since 2014, I'm always staggered how little some people drive, I guess if you live in a big city you don't drive much.

It's like a red rag to a bull... ...lol

The birds never really stand a chance, although he seems to disappear after he's had his fill!

Well that was a fun journey. 2000 miles, 2 planes, 1 car and 4 buses later. I finally picked up my SLA headlight units in a suitcase. why? Because it’s cheaper since brexit to go pick it up myself including travel, hotel, covid test and a good **** up In Brno on my stop off. Than it would be to pay the import taxes

Put new Maxton diffuser on. Had a wheel alignment, rear camber set to negtive 0.6 degree. It was negtive 1.7ish before.

Most people look at the registration plate rather than the year of registration - since it will be a 71 plate until 28th February I don't think it's worth waiting (unless you want to wait until 1st March 2022 for a 22 plate!).

GTE arrived on Thursday, can’t wait to get stuck in with the mods on this!

Well its about time I actually joined Briskoda. I recently bought my first Skoda, a Octavia VRS TSI 230 estate apsolutly love it, acres of space and handles great for a family wagon, haven't any great pictures of it but I have of plans to upgrade a few things so I will be pestering about random things no doubt and get some decent pictures up

Messy yes, very messy for someone like me that always seems to be in the thick of it, but very very rewarding I find. I like being self sufficient, hate running out and having to order, hate paying the prices, hate it when the things dry out through lack of use, hate it even worse when I have bought spares and they are blocked straight out of the sealed package. I love recycling an empty cartridge or resuscitating one that has blocked.

This can happen when the vacuum pipes to the turbo actuator become degraded and can collapse under the vacuum when there is a lot of heat generated, it also needs a miniscule leak downstream of the collapsed pipe for the vacuum to be lost and the actuator returning to its base position. Yours sounds quite advanced but its following exactly the same characteristics, in the lower gears boost is not held very long and the temperatures are lower, the longer and steeper the hill, the hotter the day, the more load you are carrying the quicker it will occur but it is always a total loss of boost which can usually be regained by cycling the ignition but if you dont back off and the load & heat are unchanged it will collapse again double quick. Something else to check which costs very little to replace if they are suspect. This can happen when the vacuum pipes to the turbo actuator become degraded and can collapse under the vacuum when there is a lot of heat generated, it also needs a miniscule leak downstream of the collapsed pipe for the vacuum to be lost and the actuator returning to its base position. Yours sounds quite advanced but its following exactly the same characteristics, in the lower gears boost is not held very long and the temperatures are lower, the longer and steeper the hill, the hotter the day, the more load you are carrying the quicker it will occur but it is always a total loss of boost which can usually be regained by cycling the ignition but if you dont back off and the load & heat are unchanged it will collapse again double quick. Something else to check which costs very little to replace if they are suspect.

Aye shocking, but not as bad as the dead end diversions round about the Kingston Bridge at 23:00 on Saturday night! Not Ayrshire type top surface then - or maybe?

Cleaning the MAF sensor rarely helps on this engine. The type fitted basically slowly burns its sensor element away over time and its output drifts, fooling the ecu into thinking the airflow is low, so backs off the fuelling to prevent it smoking and limiting top end power. Doesn't cause limp mode which turbo related problems would. They are pretty cheap, just replace it. Btw a blocked air filter would give similar symptoms.

Good evening and a warm welcome to Briskoda. Glad to see you've finally saw the light.

Interesting… Maybe I’ll stop using it in future, but I definitely removed plenty from the original factory fit battery/leads. Hence the dealer/factory comment.

I don't use anything on mine except electrical contact cleaner...sprayed onto a cloth first & wiped around the terminal & the clamp...I don't use any white grease either...especially since I have both plastic terminal covers & then the felt type cover with lid/flap. 25yrs ago I did use white lithium grease, then realised that dirt stuck to it which is rubbish if you have to remove the clamp & refit & get the crud in the clamp...so just used WD40...that gets rid of water/dirt....now for the past 10yrs+ I use electrical contact cleaner...the right tools for the job..

Best let a garage assess the damage. The 1.4tsi engine has a steel sump afaik so difficult to see that being holed, though still possible, maybe the oil level sensor (plastic) which is under the sump got knocked or the sump distorted and started leaking there. It may have damage the sensor mount so the sump may need replacing too. Both parts not that expensive, and shouldnt take too long to change by a good mechanic, you will also need to change any contaminated belts. The belt in the picture is the auxillary drive belt (cheap to replace) the cambelt is under a sealed cover (not so cheap to replace) but may have escaped contamination. If you drove any distance with a red (as opposed to yellow) oil warning light (i.e. no oil pressure) you may have damaged the engine internally, that could be very expensive. For reference https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/engine/engine-block-oil-sump-15.html?strana=2&sort=&query=

Thanks - will bear that in mind. As you suggest they 'look' intact but no doubt a run of sealant wouldn;t go amiss... Touch wood though - it seems to have been dry today despite some very heavy rain... so fingers crossed it was the lights. Time will tell!

I used a light smear of Vaseline to reduce corrosion on the terminals and leads whilst the battery is in the car. It’s something I was taught to do on old cars, so I’ve just carried it over. I’m of the opinion that it just makes things easier when it’s time to change again. As to if it’s essential I am not certain. My car had it on the factory battery, so either the factory or dealer clearly thought it was a good idea at some point. Edit: Silicon grease or some specialist grease might be better (or not) but it’s probably just to keep moisture etc out of the connection.

Note that I was laughing about it, not crying about it.

Great news Compared with what others are saying on here about delivery times, you have been really lucky, and given that you bought through a broker, and probably got a good discount,, that throws my theory about quick delivery for anyone paying full list price out the window 😀

I've had the car since March and this is the first set of bulbs I've put in it. They've been good since fitted in October though. I'm not quite sure what else I could recommend really. Perhaps have a peruse around the Philips range and see if there's anything about as they seem quite good... and don't pack in like reports of the OSRAM's, which were my original choice.

Yeah I was just reading that myself. It seems if the headlight unit is marked with an ECE R99 certification, then HID's should be OK.

Big fan of honey myself ,but the problem with cheap honey is alot of it comes from china ,and its not allways just pure honey they dilute it with lots of sugar syrup ,best to buy british stuff as its not allowed over here and its alot nicer .

Worth noting that with modern smart alternator/ micro hybrid charging systems, the battery is normally only charged to around 80% to allow space for the alternator to dump charge on the overrun.

If driving standards don't improve someone is going to get seriously injured or even killed - the race stewards need to read the rule book and properly enforce it IMHO.

H6 is the Euro name for 096.....& yes the biggest 096/H6 case size can be fitted at factory to certain high output cars with loads of electrical load... In the first post it lists all the factory batteries for MQB:- For cars WITHOUT "Start/Stop” eco engine shut off (BlueMotion II):- 44Ah/220A (DIN), H4 size, Lead acid type 51Ah/280A (DIN), H4 size, Lead acid type 60Ah/280A (DIN), H5 size, Lead acid type 61Ah/330A (DIN), H5 size, Lead acid type 72Ah/380A (DIN), H6 size, Lead acid type For cars WITH "Start/Stop” eco engine shut off (BlueMotion II):- 59Ah/320A (DIN), H5 size, EFB type 69Ah/360A (DIN), H6 size, EFB type 68Ah/380A (DIN), H6 size, AGM type P.S. I wrote that thread, I just chose to go under a different name over there..

Be interesting to see if there's a firmware update, as I wouldn't want to be behind one if they are actually causing issues. I'm sure pod-point is one of the Kia recommended suppliers too, so if it's taking out their chargers that's not ideal.

Hi all, As promised, further update on my order - in case it helps anyone else with how long it can take:- Spec Octavia vRS Estate TSI DSG - Quartz Grey - Panoramic Sunroof - DCC - Rear Camera Key Dates 22/07 - Order form completed and sent to dealer 18/08 - Order confirmation email from Skoda UK 24/09 - Dealer said unconfirmed build week 17th October 22/10 - Dealer confirmed car in factory in build 19/11 - Dealer confirmed car was at Emden port awaiting ship 26/11 - Dealer said car was on a ship on the way over to UK 03/12 - Email from Skoda UK confirming it would soon be with dealer. 03/12 - Dealer confirmed car will be with them Friday 10th and then will be checked over, and ready for collection 13th December onwards. 06/12 - Paperwork sent through and reg number confirmed. Have agreed home delivery on 17th December. So this is around 21 weeks / 5 months from placing order to home delivery. I have checked and it has been built to the spec ordered and quartz grey colour. I was quoted around 16-20 weeks at the time of placing order so this has been about right. Photo to follow when it does turn up!!

Wow! She looks fantastic Michal! 👍🏻

Sounds like a dodgy seller to me... I've been using compatible cartridges in Canon Bubblejet printers for as long as I remember and never had an issue with them. They used to come from 7dayshop.com but now I get them from inkredible.co.uk...

The explanation seems very muddled. "[Useful] Hormones are fuelled by fat, so we'll put glucose in instead" (paraphrasing a bit brutally). My understanding of metabolism says that the body only 'runs on fat' when excess glucose isn't available in the bloodstream, so I don't see how adding it helps. Not saying it doesn't work, just sounds a bit backwards, as explained there.

I like it with peanut butter on toast (don't knock it if you ain't tried it), and of course on roast 'snips or gammon, but I'm far from a regular consumer. My Mum insisted local honey would improve my resilience to hay fever, so I had it every day in my teens. Didn't make diddly squat difference so far as I was concerned. Gaz

Third time now I have seen an EV6 on a 7kW charger at Tesco having been left by a driver to charge. Each time the cars having not been getting a charge as either full or the charger cut out. Today I asked the driver if the car was full or the charger had cut out. He said he expected it was full. The thing is he has left and the charger is now out of service. This is as it was with the last 2 EV6,s after they left. No idea if they are causing the chargers to trip or not or a coincidence. I suspect they are causing the charger to trip. Very long cars.

Not sure if another cost saving measure but I miss the cable operated tailgate release that my 2001 estate had (beside fuel door release)

Yep Garlands in Aldershot. Hugely impressed by them and very pleased to have placed my order there.

Yes, smother it in black lipstick if you want a goth pig, alternatively drive it some first and fix any problems before worrying about tarting it up when the weather gets better. If you really can't wait, go and buy a load of tacky crap to slap all over it for Christmas

Well, the RNS 315 Amundsen is the navigation unit as well which has built in bluetooth normally (not all do), these are also available with DAB, that would set you back around £250 and all you would need on top would be a DAB and GPS antenna But a cheaper option would be an RCD510 (link below) similar to the Swing unit you have, but more features.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265403788596?hash=item3dcb4c6d34:g:Y1sAAOSwWMFhj8Ir To this you have to add the bluetooth module and wiring like below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304168778213?hash=item46d1df39e5:g:8OsAAOSwBX5hVuoP So cost gets "similar", all depends on what you want really. The RNS315 would need coding in the car as would also potentially telling the car its phone prepped. Heres an RNS315 FULL kit...........as you could buy from the dealer as an accessory, obviously a LOT cheaper now, but good value "imo" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194490536621?hash=item2d488a12ad:g:WPkAAOSw2cNhhO-A

Hi Quick search of such threads Part number 7P0810773F @varaderoguy, its not that hard if the OP can still open it. Fitting is very easy open fuel flap remove just the one torx screw and you can wriggle the hole unit out from the filler neck, and actuator simply pulls off. you can break off the two little tabs from the actuator if you need to wait for parts but then the fuel flap will not lock.. regards

Thank you very much I find useful everything you put here I'll do a scan and I'll attach pictures of work to completion I want to take the project to the end I hope not to get very expensive to have problems with my wife

If you have checked the loom for continuity on all of the pins across the blocks and there are no breaks, then you’ll have to go down the route of getting into the door and replace the locks. Full guide here; Decent after market locks are around £17 each. And, as much as I wanted to keep it OEM, the originals are far to expensive. I use aftermarket ones from eBay and a year later, they’re still working perfectly fine.