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Hamilton has gone up a bit in my estimation because of this. Not his driving which has always been sublime, but his maturity and decency, which I had questioned previously. Well done Sir Lewis!

Info just out on a crashed MkIII Superb (Reg KT17 DXS) which was not declared & has been badly fixed & is now up for sale at "Carbase" in Weston-Super-Mare. Dodgy Cars | Facebook Salvage History for 2017 SKODA SUPERB SE Technology TDi 150 (uksalvage.info) 2017 (17) - Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI CR SE Technology 5dr (motors.co.uk) MOT advisories are interesting:- Full Check for 2017 SKODA SUPERB SE TECHNOLOGY TDI (vcheck.uk)

Be honest Colin, you're standing in the pub car park

lovely moon this evening........

Brought myself some Christmas pressies, some bilstein b12 shocks and Eibach springs combo, and some forge goodies for the engine, going to see if I get a chance to do the suspension soon if the weather stays mild, and if the gti brakes clear the alloys

It was never going to change things. I think they saw the light once the dust had settled To be fair to Hamilton, I've always considered him a bit of a pillock, but he has shown great grace and sportsmanship in his handling of the defeat, especially under the circumstances of what happened .

I'd be tempted to swap out the headlights to the correct bulbs and have a look at the rear brakes/handbrake and if you find nothing amis then take it to the local council MOT centre for a second opinion. They don't do repairs so have nothing to gain from failing you.

Were these factory options or dealer fit options? The factory isn’t going to allow unlimited customisation. Some items are dealer fit.

Haha ok I’ll take a pic on sat from the pub car park… although thinking on…. It’s in the photo. At least four I’d happily walk/go to are. Deceptive hills hiding stuff.

Not quite middle of nowhere, but the scenic path back from the post office. I’m so unfit at the moment. Days past I’d go out to beyond the skyline and back for a pub lunch.

If anyone has been near the battery recently, I would check that neither clamp is loose.

You can put that info into your profile details so that it shows on the badge thingy (I've no idea what they're called) at the side of every post. See mine for an example. You might want to think about getting a correct (trickle) charger for your battery for prevention rather than hassle and cure. You want it sorted by the seller but if you have a good multimeter a quick check of the battery posts might bring you to my pet subject on here of low battery - though all or any of what rootoot has put could be the cause or even in addition to a low battery. Good luck.

Santa's got a Czech sleigh this year...

The driver's window switch one-touch was erratic so I've just replaced the unit. Seems not an uncommon problem but thankfully it is an easy fix. Got a replacement switch from Amazon for €20 which has the added benefit of the the Chrome detailing that mine was lacking, although I had added some AliExpress chrome pieces to the old one. Prize out the window switch trim starting with trim removal tools along the long edge, working your way back to the short edge. Tilt up and out to access wiring. Disconnect both electric switches for mirror and windows, there isn't a huge amount of cable so access is a bit awkward. With the trim removed the switch unit is held in by 6 small tabs on its edges. Use a fork shaped trim removal tool between the switch and the trim and work your way around. With the 6 times released it's simply slide out. At this point I tested the Amazon switch before installation by hooking it up, everything works fine, the only thing is the the rear window lock doesn't light up amber. It just goes on or off. Then popped it back into its trim and installation is the reverse of removal. The new switches have a nice damped feel which the old ones were lacking due to age I suppose.

Have to say, if a car can't cope with all the lights being on, whilst the engine is running, then it probably shouldn't be on the road. That is after all it's default state on the road, which could include them all being on.

Quote.. "The thing is, this garage failed my Roomster for both rear coils snapped/fractured and a ball joint with a damaged sleave. None of that stuff was true. They asked £700 to fix it but I declined and found out after there was nothing wrong with the coils and ball joints". And you still went back to them? Not being funny but I would have not shown them a plastic toy car to inspect! My advise is go elsewhere in future, once you have completed any necessary repairs or even just for a second opinion. If it passes elsewhere, complain to your local trading standards office.

Check to see if battery light comes on when you switch on the ignition. (Key position before starter turns).

Steel Grey / Meteor Grey

Breakdown on the school run! At least it was an easy fix. Walking back to the car with my daughter I was all "What you need to make an engine go is fuel, air and spark..." and she was all "whatever dad your car is rubbish when it breaks."

I'm quite convinced that it's going to outlive all of us. Like a cockroach after a nuclear blast almost.

Never seen a car take so much abuse and keep going. Hit hard enough to break the starter in two, put a new starter on it and it fires up after being sat for over a year like it was nothing. The matrix that replaced the mk1 couldn't hold a candle to it there.

A company like Superskoda would have to manufacture Mk3 headlamp assemblies with LED's in them and go through the approval process (which is costly) and then sell them too us as replacement headlamp assemblies. I would imagine that after factoring in their profit they would be so expensive that none of us would buy them! In the interim, some of the bright white halogens like the Osram Night Breaker are the best we can hope for. I fitted them to mine and they were noticeably brighter and whiter Amazon link to the H7 bulbs here: https://amzn.to/30sXpI7 not a bad price for £19 a pair! Nick

Best bit about living in the middle of nowhere definitely has to be the walks on your doorstep. These photos were taken during the "first" lockdown possibly in or around July. I took these in the lowest resolution possible (640x480) so that I could e-mail them to my Grampa without technological hell. So apologies for that.

It was the whole front, bumper, lights, bonnet, front area of roof, outside mirrors, windshield frame, those black glossy door pillars, under mudguards.

In case it's any help to anyone in the future, the cause of this problem turned out to be a faulty relay (the 645 one in the engine bay fuse box), which was discombobulating the ECM. Did a Carista scan, searched the fault code in this forum and found that a very helpful user called Bob3 had experienced and sorted the very same problem.

Alloys done and new centre caps fitted, managed to get some genuine Mazda ones, new old stock for £29 each! happy with the results

I'd check the battery before commiting your car to a dealer. Short journeys can be a problem because of the idiotically overcomplex charging system that's too clever for itself. I suggest that you disconnect the BCM (battery control module) sensor and take the car out for a good 20 mile or more fast run. There are plenty of posts on this group regarding the batteries and BCM. The BCM sensor is the little black connection to the negative terminal of the battery. Just release the plug and tuck it out of the way. This will allow the battery to charge to 100% and inhibit start/stop.

Not given that amount of info... Based on your other posts, you probably have a MIB2 Amundsen...? In which case, try this:

Bit more info: I've had this issue for the past 6 months or so. The car initially came with bigger tires on the front, I thought replacing them could fix the issue but no luck. One of the bearings also needed replacement, thought that the faulty bearing may be causing a wheel speed issue but upon fitting a new one, the problem still persists. My battery died last week so I've installed a brand new one yesterday so the clamps are on tight and relatively clean. I'll give it a quick sand through anyway. Thank you for all of the quick replies!

GPF's Regen (clean out) differently from DPFs. They were introduced to the Mk3 Fabia September 2018, so there were ones pre GPF I have not seen a TSI with a light on yet for the GPF, but plenty have been aware of them doing regens or misbehaving while doing them or maybe failing to.

The one that attaches to the wing is a biggie and I will preach it until I'm blue in the face. It used to cause ABS and PAS lights along with cutting power to lights, stereo, and other things. You can remove the clamp and clean it with sandpaper or a nail-file to allow better connection. I'd send a photo of its location but mine is FUBAR because I'm a ham-fisted oaf.

Alternator wire springs to mind, or ABS sensor as you have said. I believe this was covered on an earlier thread.

The 1.4TDI production stopped June 2017 as did the 1.2 TSI's. Not sure if the OP's 1.0TSI has a GPF or not but it probably has.

Each MOT tester has their own process, why does it matter to you what that process is?

i would much more worried about stop&start failure than autolock wich i ve for year on many cars and never had any problem !

I have just had my key repaired postal service and I can't recommend this guy enough. My kessy key stopped working so I took it to the main dealer after trying batteries. They said it needed replacing at a cost of 380 quid. I sent it special delivery on Monday to this chap in Wales and 40 quid later and returned today Thursday all working. A decent honest bloke. Give him a go.. I sent a what's app message and he replied straight away. His name is RAF SABIR 07742504123.Hes an ex electronics repair guy and knows his stuff.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08JLSDKDY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What do you see as the problem with doing that? Are you thinking the alternator will not be able to supply enough current to meet this load?

Me too. When I go from autohold, put the parking brake on and shift from D, E or S to neutral I can feel the car stop pulling against the brake.

Seems perfectly reasonable to get 75mpg with regen on and driving reasonably. I used to get 60+ mpg out of my non plug in hybrid Auris fairly easily accross whole tank fulls of fuel. With a plug in hybrid and better regeneration than my Toyota you’d get a lot more. Depends on driving style and terrain of course, most people want to drive like idiots nowadays and wonder why their cars don’t do the advertised numbers. 🙄🙄

About 2400rpm. I suspect the 7 speed will be 400rpm or so less than that if the missus's Karoq is anything to go by (realise they aren't that transferable, but its all I have to go on).

That's what you did by observing the presence/absence of the battery light at ignition on. Please share some info about your car such as the year it was built, and the engine type. Here's a thread with some pictures of mine of the connector pair where most problems with the alternator wiring occur: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/287467-load-signal-alternator-cable/

PAS not working in the winter is probably more likely to be related to low battery voltage, measure yours on a cold day.

On AliExpress I believe you have to review within the first 30 days. chances are these last all of 31 days and you’ll have no way of knowing or telling anyone about it.

Always look at the reg plate of your Fabia and think it's someone shouting to their mate. Obviously the "01" looks like "OI", and the MO could be someone called Mo, so you can get where I'm coming from...

We’ll I’m most defo a fuel snob anyway so I’d certainly not put it anywhere near anything less than 97 !! And the one I’m looking at has only done 29k miles so it’s still recoverable if previous owner has run it on standard haha

I've had an email from EBC about why they make different brake pads for the rear 300mm and 310mm brakes on the Superb MK3. Apparently, although ATE make the same brake pads to fit either size of rear brake discs, when EBC made their aftermarket copies they purchased OEM Skoda rear brake pads...and they were slightly different from each other. So EBC copied both. EBC say that you are likely to be able to use either DPX2153 or DPX2173 rear brake pads if you are using new discs. But if your discs are used, it will be best to use the same pads that you are replacing (or at least have the friction material in the same place) because the friction material on the pads is likely to have worn an ever so slightly different track on the discs. I think it is for this reason that some people have had problems (possibly vibration) with various cars when they fit new but different pads to used/worn discs, ie. there can be problems if the friction material on the new pads is in an ever so slightly different position to the friction material on the old pads. In making different rear brake pads for the 300mm and 310mm rear discs, EBC appears to be the exception rather than the rule, as most brands make the same rear brake pads to fit both the 300mm and 310mm sizes. These brands include ATE, Bosch, Brembo, Ferodo, Hella/Pagid, Jurid, Optimal, Textar, and TRW. So out of these ten brands, it's only EBC that makes different rear brake pads for the 300mm and 310mm rear discs.

Think they either need to expand their service department, or Skoda need another dealership to be opened nearby. Over 5 week waiting lists for some maintenance is not acceptable in my book, it’s longer than service interval countdown on Skoda cars.

Do you mean this parts? https://m.oemvwshop.com/5ja827249b-buffer-p302630/

Because the clutch in a DSG is disengaged when ur stationary - hence its pointless moving it to Neutral.