Leaderboard

You'll run out stuff to do as soon as you stop looking for stuff to do. Eventually you're going to have to start talking to 'er indoors again...

Further to my previous post had a call from Rainworth Skoda today to arrange collection of my vrs IV estate for next saturday. and just to add i didnt get alot of updates along the way, had a provisional build week of 44 but never got confirmed, never got any other update email or call until i was told it was built and at port for shipping. So i think on the update side its alot to do with the dealer and their chasing of the order. Hope everyones cars start getting moved along quicker now. Dan

What radio did you have fitted? If it's a non-skoda unit, then did you fit an amplifier before connecting the aerial cable to the stereo? The standard radio has an amplifier built in, and so you'll need to add an external one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363125055951?mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&mkcid=1&campid=5338306792&toolid=10001&customid=mp-shop&mkevt=1

I've since thought through it and if the tandem pump seals failed I'd think that it would suck fuel through quite rapidly. Pressure one side, part vacuum the other.... First longer trip in the car in two years. Just after the first real big problem I had with it. (Turbo went boom). Extra worry and paranoia. At least I had the RAC membership (bought just before Christmas). If I'd turned up fretting at the wrong garage, the £££s signs might have lit up.

Rather more than I thought. RAC man eventually rocked up and took 30 seconds to state "that's normal oil, it does that, if fuel was getting in there, it'd be overflowing and going everywhere". I drove it 140 miles back up east quite handily this afternoon so it seems that he was right.

The Greenhouse heater is only good when parked and if you have an extension cable. Set at 2 Degrees C & with a little gap of the window is fine. Where the cable comes in will do. Best that you have wind deflectors fitted. The £1 Damp traps are fine to have in the boot and car and are a help.

Sachs 993 061 or sometimes listed as Sachs 993061 (ie. without the space) is sold to replace 3C0411105C. They are no better than KYB RH3559 that also matches 3C0411105C. On ebay, the virtually identical Sachs is about two-and-a-half times the price. It seems like a no-brainer to go for the KYB, or at least something much better value than the Sachs. KYB claim their spring/shocks, etc. are fitted to about 25% of new cars. Whatever the exact percentage, they are certainly very big players. Kilen 25068 is available on ebay for about £26 each, so again much better value than Sachs. I doubt Sachs actually make the springs. I've got some, and they are just plain black springs with a Sachs sticker that someone has stuck on. The Sachs sticker itself is all crinkled, and peels off very easily...and sticks back on very easily. This suggests that Sachs hasn't actually made this spring, as I would have thought they would have marked it more permanently if they had made it. The amount of rebranding in aftermarket parts in on a massive scale. So often the parts that are sold under different brand names seem the same...but there are differences sometimes. Just look how many brands are selling springs to replace 3C0411105C on autodoc. I'm counting 38 different brands. There certainly isn't anything like 38 different factories making this same specification of spring. What's happening, is that there's a lot of rebranding going on...although the springs are unlikely to have come out of just one factory. 38 different brands of 3C0411105C springs listed on autodoc (there's a lot of rebranding going on) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0411105c?search=OEN+3C0411105C&supplier[0]=253&supplier[1]=85&supplier[2]=246&awc=12639_1641577297_083478a8bfdbfbc4389cbb77895f0485&supplier[3]=32 With KYB and Kilen/Lesjofors you are more likely to find that these firms have actually made their own springs. I bought some Kilen/Lesjofors springs, and they had manufacturers' codes laser etched onto them, not some dodgy sticker applied as some kind of afterthought.

KYB RH3559 are sold to replace 3C0411105C and are available on ebay for about £20 each. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334250861618?hash=item4dd2e76432:g:d20AAOSwYJ1htI5g 3C0411105C Kilen 25068 Lesjofors 4095086 Kilen/Lesjofors are the same springs, made in the same factory in Sweden. Kilen/Lesjofors don't give the specifications of their springs which can be a disadvantage. 3C0411105C https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3c0411105c?search=OEN+3C0411105C&supplier[0]=246&supplier[1]=85&supplier[2]=253

Hi, just seen this thread, mine was missing but found one at my local breakers yard for nothing.

Looks like I may need to keep an eye on this thread. Just in case I decide to buy a MK1 Fabia of course............

Also dont go for O.E springs they are crap. they rust and are made from old Lada's Went for Lesjofors for the 3rd set and they have out lasted the 2 sets of O.E I put on and still look brand new with no flaking of paint 😉

I knew that day would have to come 😂

You are looking at a head gasket job. Not the end of the world. There are plenty of topics with great photos in this section. Bite the bullet and do it.

i don't care waiting just a little bit more only if i didn't lose another option ! i m still really angry/disapointed about losing Canton

In my experience, diesel in the oil on a PD that's running ok is more likely to be caused the o rings on the injectors leaking than the tandem pump failing. Worn cam would show as a rough idle, and be reasonably easy to spot if you take the cover off and have a look. If it's had decent oil it's whole life, there's not likely to be an issue.

I went with it, but haven't had any time to tell. Looks fantastic, though.

You can rebuild the tandem pump with new seals and a gasket, change the oil and voila. You're catastrophising about the rest, unless the bearings are audible then there's no reason to suspect the worst.

Will take another video at night time to see the compassion to day time. 20211231_122028.mp4

Hello All, After having a discussion regarding LED replacement in the instrument cluster, (search: Rev/Speedo Dial Illumination), I have written up a guide on LED replacement. I hope someone finds it useful. Tomasz Instrument Cluster LED Replacment v1-1.pdf

I was able to find these with my VIN: 0YG VWGROUP GKH Weight range 7 installation control only, no requirement forecast 1JN VWGROUP DFH Rear shock absorption G15 VWGROUP DFV Shock absorption in front L18 VWGROUP GKV Suspension range 18 installation control only, no requirement forecast

New MOT done. Now to get on with the project!

Service sheets are generated on the day of servicing by a distant computer in the Skoda service recording system. Maybe even even direct from the factory, it will generate TPI's and other custom information depending on a car's individual VIN, build and service record. Erwin can give you what you want, but there is a small cost involved

+1 for Lesjofors/Kilen I have fitted 4 sets now and they have all performed far better then the OE ones although you would have to work hard to produce something even worse! And a thumbs down from me for Autodoc and the multitude of other supposed web based companies that are all in fact Autodoc and use exactly the same page layout, many of the brands they list they dont stock, I have known many people pay more for a certain big name brand known to them only for Autodoc to send out the same parts but from other pretend brands & again refuse to pay for or accept the return, Ebay and Paypal are always better for the buyer.

Does F.M.S. translate at all well into Greek? None of them seem to in French with the exception of something that can be easily visualised, I use Judge Judy's "Don't pi55 on my leg and tell me it's raining!" and the intention and humour are understood.

The alarm has it's own siren has it not? ? Is getting the batteries into the key fobs not much easier than messing about?

I just replaced the Philips extreme vision LEDs to the Auxito ones and what a difference! The Auxito ones are far brighter, they're fantastic. £16/£17 from EBay.

Very happy with dealer and the way they dealt with the problems.

Robbing sods

Well the dealer put a meter on the rear screen and its working and indeed you can smell the element heating up. I can only guess therefore that by removing the fuse and re- seating it has cured the problem. Maybe it was not fully located in the holder slot. Anyway all is good and the dealer promises a full diagnostic if the problem shows up again. Excellent service from the dealer I must say. Thanks kodiaqsportline for your comments.

Almost all dash cams are 5v and are powered from a 12v/5v adaptor, so are fine powered from a 5v usb socket, you just need the appropriate cable.

For information, the All in service plan which costs £768 or £32/month over 2 years, gives you 2 services, one of which is an extended scope and includes plugs/diesel fuel filter, 2 MOTs, 2 yrs warranty and breakdown. Services can be put on the variable schedule so up to 4 years worth of servicing. But only available on cars 3-6 years old that pass an eligibility check (involves a free inspection at a dealer). New car buyers are being ripped off.

Its a (ridiculous) condition of the 2 services plan (bought when new) that the car is set to fixed (9400mile/1year) interval. You don't even get 372 days on the new cars now, its set at 365 days. 2 services are 2 oil/filter changes and one pollen filter and an "inspection"

The discs are starting to delaminate, I'm not sure of Arnold Clark's used car preparation policy but those discs are in need of replacement. Vibration under braking would often point to brake discs and/or pads, but the fact the vibration continues after you've set off again (and presumably not braking) is unusual.

These days car manuals are increasingly unreadable; maybe 80% is country or option specific, and working out what does/doesn't apply to your model can be really tricky, particularly if you're not the original owner. Rather than a generic paper manual, it should be possible to compile a custom PDF which only includes features on your car, based on the VIN.

Sometimes pressure is lost through where the tyre seats on the rim.

I’d scoff at paying that for those. Why not remove the springs inside each unit and connect them back up to see if the motors are trying to run. Without the springs in, the motors will run for 3 or 4 minutes after the car has been locked, but it will prove a point because you can hear them trying to open and shut. Btw, I’ve replaced my back boxes and am running without flaps. The wires are just bagged and tied up out the way, and I’ve not had any warning lights come on in the 5 months it’s been like that. Hope this helps.

I agree. Hopefully we don't get to that point! It would only end in sorrow! 😁

Is there are turn off alarm button on the drivers door? The one that is needed if leaving animals in to the car. Or on a ferry or car transporter.

Hello, I'm the owner of a 64 plate Skoda Superb Estate with 6 speed DSG which I've had from nearly new. We bought it as we wanted a good sized load lugger to get us through the time our two sons were tall teenagers and then needed taking back and forth to university. I've been nothing but happy with it as it just does its job well, it's got 97,000 on the clock now and hopefully has many more in it. I don't tend to work on it myself, reserving my mechanical skills, such as they are, for my 1999 Fiat Barchetta.

It is probably not relevant but I recently found I could not get my contacts to sync at all, although they used to do so. Eventually I found there was a security setting that must have been added recently to the Android system that withheld permission for the car's Bluetooth connection to read the contacts. It was easy then to turn off that feature.

It tells you to take your foot off the accelerator to coast / regen into the roundabout. I’m not sure what it’s called on Skodas, but VW calls it Eco Assistant and it’s standard on all ID cars. So presumably it’s also available on all Enyaqs (I have ACC, so I don’t know how it works on non ACC cars). “How do the efficiency systems contribute to saving energy? All ID. models have an intelligent system on board as standard – the Eco Assistant, which evaluates navigation data and road signs. When the car is approaching a zone requiring a lower speed – such as a village, roundabout, or a corner – the system shows the driver that they need to take their foot off the accelerator. And, where possible, the Eco Assistant also increases the recuperation automatically. The aim is to increase energy efficiency through thinking ahead while driving.” VW interview

No, I'm not, it isn't all about you, only the first bit is. The second bit is about me. The third bit could be about anyone, but more generally; a person can be smart but people are stupid, the larger the group is the dumber it gets.

Same here. Today I got news that our Kamiq Monte Carlo has been built and is awaiting transport to Slovenia. Order date was september 18.

The most likely cause is that you inadvertently pressed the unlock button for a sustained period.

Not a facelift, but specs have been changed See attached new brochure, the old spec versions are marked only from stock The new specs are more expensive https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/5782ef00-768c-43df-8faf-51cba9730287 No idea on build dates, but document has effective date of 16th December 2021, so if old specs are now only from stock, presumably already discontinued the old.

Please don't add such things to your signature as it could appear to be intimidating or even be perceived as a badge of honour depending on how it's viewed. 👍

On my auto Kodiaq I use the manual park brake button for two things: when stopped in traffic for a while at night I manually activate it, which then switches off the brake lights - it seems a kind thing to do; when I know the car is going to be parked on the level for a while (or after washing it) I manually deactivate it - it helps reduce the chance of the pads seizing to the disks.

What !! You mean to say you have a dealer who doesn't know everything about their product - I find that hard to believe 😉.

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.