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Visited Attenborough Nature Reserve this afternoon ............

Out and about in the borders today, a quick snap with the camera phone.

According to an email received from Skoda earlier today, my Kodiaq has finally left the factory and should be with my dealer soon.

A few more from this afternoon........

More likely to be broken wires where they come from the body to the hatch.

Buy a good quality coil if you want to get rid of all the misfires.

Agreed, Tayna (not tanya, but it redirects) may well be able to deliver one to you next day for only just over half of that £111.

Never mind range anxiety, how about charger anxiety? 😉

Check the soft rubber connecting pieces in the PCV valve outlet hose. That connects through to the inlet mani so can be a big vac leak if rotted out like on this BMD in a Polo. No EGR as xman says. Sep could be right; borescope would probably see damaged valve edges if present.

Solved, it was the inner cv joint (homocinetic?) , i got it new

Or for a lot less https://www.energizedcustoms.co.uk/vehicle-lighting/headlights.html?vehicle_make=58&vehicle_model=297&year=1583 post free and very quick delivery. They are based in Telford, but will allow collection by appointment. Approx £80 a side or £150 for a pair. My tip for fitting the bottow radiator side bolt is to screw the plastic ferrule fully out and tie a bit of string etc to the bolt. Stops the bolt falling into the undertray when ( not if) it works loose when fitting it into the hole. on one side I had to "persuade" the wing to move up about 1/2 inch. Possibly as it had been changed( some one with a van clobbered me).

The evaporator temperature sensor will ensure the N280 compressor valve is at its minimum if it reads at or below 0°C, so no cooling will occur. Don't necessarily expect to hear magnetic clutches clicking on modern Skoda systems, most models have a variable displacement system regulated by a proportional solenoid valve, N280; effectively 'always on', albeit only at a duty cycle of a few percent when not required to produce any cooling. If yours is a model with a magnetic clutch they do apparently have an outside temperature switch that will disable the system below 2° and not re-enable until 5°C.

Buying a "cheap" part can often turn out to be more expensive than buying a more expensive but good quality.

Hi James, Sorry to hear about you being rear ended. Hope no one was hurt. I took a few pictures today, sorry but the light is overcast today but you should get the just. You can see them here. John

Luckily right on to a PodPoint and charging at 26 pence a kWh quickly. 50kW charger will work out at 33kWh charging up to 98%. So no messing about to see if the free chargers happen to be working. Checking while I charge Apps show they are not. The next 2 charges today will be on CPS chargers and free. So 450 miles might cost just under £10. EDIT. Done, 60 minutes added 65% to the battery. £7.44. that gives 90 miles. Scorchio now out. Edit PPS. Looked round to Airport. Only 8 22kW chargers working and occupied in the park and ride. None of the new fast or rapid chargers enabled but all powered up. The single old Rapid has no powere.

I found the link from this thread here. The cable arrived yesterday so I'll try it and see if it works out ok in the next few days.

Setting off on a few hundred miles with a full battery. So going to need to charge at least 3 times. Charge Place Scotland chargers i might use in Fife or those near Edinburgh Airport are reported and showing as Out of Order so i know just to check when passing but not expect a charge. Other CPS Edinburgh Airport ones near are showing OOO. So there is one 6 miles away that i have never found available to use but i will go try, and there is a PodPoint 50kW 1 mile away from that if available. Next option is a BP Pulse a couple of miles from the Airport which does not take Contactless so i have Credit on my account. Happy enough to pay to charge to get a shift on but it is unbelievable just how much a lottery it is to get a Rapid Charge in the Newbridge / Ingliston / Ratho / Airport area if you have not got a Tesla. I might try BP Pulse at Harthill Services West Bound to see if any better than the East Bound Services and if there is a proper charging speed on 100+ kW chargers.

That's now done Wino, thanks again.

Bi-Xenon set for LHD = 3V1 941 015 A & 3V1 941 016 A - these have been superseded with 3V1 941 017 A & 3V1 941 018 A Bi-Xenon set for RHD = 3V2 941 015 A & 3V2 941 016 A - these have been superseded with 3V2 941 017 A & 3V2 941 018 A Bi-Xenon (with SLA) set for LHD = 3V1 941 015 B & 3V1 941 016 B - these have been superseded with 3V1 941 017 B & 3V1 941 018 B Bi-Xenon (with SLA) set for RHD = 3V2 941 015 B & 3V2 941 016 B - these have been superseded with 3V2 941 017 B & 3V2 941 018 B again, i don't know wat 3VD is all about....

My take is simply Buyer beware. Some online companies guarantee fresh build dates others do not. My impression is that Avon have always been a budget tyre that has the added bonus of ultra fast wear. Cracking like that shown is common across many makes, one reason I gave up on Michelin. Apparently partly down to low useage and stood outside exposed to the elements and UV. Low mileage users who don't move their car often, the oils in the compound don't get exercised and the surfaces dry out and cracking occurs. But that typical example is not a safety issue, simply a cosmetic one, that part is not on contact with road after all. No perfect tyre, all a collection of compromises, this months batch may be different from last months depending who mixed the ingredients. In the past I stuck to Continental Premium Contacts for my Alhambra as no alternatives were available on my size, each set was different, made in Portugal, Spain, Hungary 8mm, 7mm Several years ago I bought a used spare wheel/tyre from ebay for our fabia. Fitted with an old BF Goodrich G grip tyre (49/09) Pressed into use many times over the years, currently fitted on our remaining fabia, its been quite a remarkable tyre, low wear, no sign of the cracking I regularly saw on Michelins, or borderline delamination on every Goodyear Efficient Grip performance when worn. Tyre walls still look like new, no deterioration apparent. Tyre was made in Poland, BF Goodrich is owned by Michelin.

If they sit flush with the wheel arch they'll hit it under full compression.

Cool. Consider upgrading to Freedom membership as a thank you to the forum, please.

To me they don't look that dark. I would go with the black ones if they would be available for configuration.

At least here its required for certain light intensity. For example the MK8 Golf does not have them with their "iq.light". I must admit that i do use them sometimes. In golf i had them enabled when using the windshield washer for 2.5seconds. Thats what i'll do with octavia also.

For the Roomster, I would go with 185/65R14 fitted to either 5Jx14 ET35 or 6Jx14 ET37 steel rims. mytyres are listing both of these standard rim sizes, and the 6Jx15 ET43 size. 175/70R14 and 185/65R14 are both standard tyre sizes on the Roomster. 185/65R14 gives better grip than 175/70R14. 195/55R15 could be used on the 6Jx15 ET43 rim, but the ride would be noticeably harder than the 14" tyres, and it's a more expensive size. 5Jx14 ET35, 6Jx14 ET37, 6Jx15 ET43 Steel Rims listed on mytyres https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/rim-selector?type=steel&vehicle_ids=183698156431610980%3A%3Aundefined Vredestein Quatrac 5 185/65R14 86T All-Season Tyres with the 3PMSF symbol https://www.camskill.co.uk/m137b0s7980p144832/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_-_185_65_R14_86T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_E_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_1_Noise%3A_68dB

Check the wiring in the rubber gaitor between the pillars and the doors for broken or damage wires. Also check the fuses.

I'm reusing my Nextbase 512 dashcam. I bought 1 metre usb-c to mini-usb, as I did not like the fit of the 90-degree cable. I got this one - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079L5YFJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1, wrapped it around the rearview mirror mount and you can't see it at all.

@DanielMoise you already have the latest available SW version @sto PM

Fits perfectly and no rattles.

Also slightly confusing with the Pod point is that if you only have a schedule set for specific days it will only show the Yellow light on that day, so for example if you have a schedule set for 2am Friday then on Thurday light will be Blue until you plug in and then go Green to show the pod point is available for charging. Suggestion from the Pod Point Facebook Group is to set a schedule for every night even if you aren't plugging in/charging so that point is effectively off all the time and only on during the schedule window it should then display a yellow light all the time and you know if there is anything else showing that there is no schedule set.

As far as I know, 3V1941016A requires the AFS slave module (8U0941329), and it has AFS function. Mine certainly did have it, the only difference mine was a RHD version (3V2). I don't know why the Chinese models r getting the same 3V1941016A without the 8U0 module, and hence no AFS function. In theory, if u put the AFS slave module (8U0941329) in ur existing 3V1 headlights - u should get the AFS functionality ur after.

All bixenons have the afs/slight cornering feature already so basically all you’ve done is swapped like for like. there are 3 headlamp variants on superb - Halogen and bulbs - Bi xenon with afs/Cornering - Bi xenon with SLA

3VD.....strange part number!! either way, as @ApertureS said, u need version B headlights, i.e. part number end in "B". also, u have the incorrect AFS slave modules. u need the version beginning with 4H0. VCDS is not the only thing, u also need to load the parameter file, using ODIS or VCP, to the 4B-multifunction module. however given urs is MY16, it might be the 55-headlight module.

3VD941016A Is not a SLA headlamp, it is all detailed in the previous pages. Needs to end with B! and you can’t just fit 1 headlight to upgrade, needs to be the pair also it can’t be done with VCDS alone, you need odis or vcp to upload dataset as vcds can’t do this. and an older version of vcds can’t be used as it can’t read the 5B module

I've got same problem ( barking) with my little cross. She's a rescue, and hates women of a certain look. She does not lick windows, just makes them mucky.

Hi James, Sorry I never got a chance and actually ended up making a custom cable and then wrapping it with the hdmi extension cable from my Nextbase 622GW. I have the Nextbase rear view camera module and extension (not the one that sticks to the back window) that is stuck to the front screen. Both the USB and HDMI cables are wrapped in the black OEM fabric tape that is hidden behind the mirror. I'll take a wee pic or two tomorrow when it's daylight to show you what I mean. It does the job just nicely and more importantly was non destructive and removable. John

Just tried the inflator supplied with the car, it reaches all 4 wheels easily without even having to go through the cabin. No problem as far as I can see. Its not hard to get to the inflator either, just fold the rear seat and lift up the flap behind the seat base.

I did have a search online, the images I could find were either of the red sealant type or too low-resolution to tell, like the one linked above which looks like this: Now that's some quality parts numbering!

Its been completed by @wirerhe has a full guide on the process here - https://wirer.sk/f3_tempomat/

I missed your post, this computer is playing up. Is that not just misfire on 3(?). Fair enough, a bit of straw clutching, but like my computer now the car's computers can sometimes play up in weird and strange ways (but never wonderful). I think xman has given you a path to follow. Be very careful if messing with live HT leads and ignition, I know of someone who had a very bad and long lasting problem from doing so, be correctly insulated.

As this is a waste spark system, plugs 1/ 4 fire together and plugs 2/3 fire together every rev of the engine. So misfires on 1and 4 strongly indicates an ignition issue rather than fuelling or anything else. Have you used the correct plugs IZFR6P7 ? Are the plugs and leads from a reputable UK source, i.e. genuine? Have you made sure the spark plug connectors are fully pushed home, they take quite a hefty push to finally get them home, especially if you haven't used any spark plug insulator grease. (No grease should be ever used on the spark plug threads) Have you at any point taken the connectors off by pulling the lead. That is a sure way to break the lead core. You can check the lead by measuring its resistance end to end, it should be around 9 kkohm. Always use a suitable tool to pull the metal cap of the connector and never pull the lead. If a lead is open circuit or not properly connected that can damage the coil due to over voltage. If you have plugs out the resistance tip to connector is 1 kohm. That leaves the Chinese coil....maybe try swapping back your old one. Good luck

Until more knowledgeable people arrive I will give you my thoughts. If you did not have a scan tool would you know there was any misfires, and if so what problems are the misfire causing. Did you try swapping the HT leads and/or plugs (keeping correct firing order) on 1 and 4 to see if the misfire moved with the swapped items. NGK plugs and HT leads should be good, items from China can be very good or not. I did not notice a time for the door fault if it is the same as misfires that could be related. Checked the readings of engine sensors, coolant sensor. Done a longer live data on scan tool to get more record of misfires. Have you been through the servicing items like air filter, fuel filter, clean inside air intakes and no vacuum leaks, checked gaskets, connections of hoses, trunking and electrics. Checked level and condition of coolant and engine oil, battery charge and connections including earths. What about a compression test on the engine, That is me out of ideas.

Wino, thank you sir. I have just checked fuse 28, and it was blown. Brilliant. My next step was to take it to the garage, so I reckon you have just saved me a small fortune. Very much appreciated. Cheers.

Pollen / cabin filter. Maybe a help to those doing some of their own Servicing & Maintenance and checks.

Blue light actually reduces the effectiveness of your night vision and means that the lights then need to be brighter than they would be if they were yellow, it's why they used yellow headlights in Europe for so many years.

Very happy with the mounts. So much nicer changing gears and a lot less drama putting my foot down. Slightly more vibrations but not crazy especially this being a diesel. Wanted to give the car a proper clean and polish as I might be taking it on a long trip in a few weeks so want it looking smart for it. White hides the dirt pretty well, but in person it was rotten. Took it out to use the pressure washer as it has a strong mix of TFR in it. Exhausts looking grimy Took it home and left it for the night. Jacked up the car one side at a time to wash the arches out, and give the drums a coat of paint. Drums looked rough, just gave them another coat of metallic grey after I was done with the arches and let them dry. Arches cleaned up nicely. Didn't need to be perfect I was more worried about getting some mud off of everything. That arch cover cracked on the bottom some time last year, think it happened over a bad speed bump near my house. Weirdly this was when it was on standard suspension so not low by any stretch. No proper after pics but the fronts cleaned up well too. Brakes got a bit of love too. Not much of an after pic lol. Hindsight tells me I should have gave them a coat of paint to freshen them up, still came up well however. Bucket was brown by the time I was done. Swapped wheels front to back as I didn't want the fronts running any lower. Gave them a deep clean while they were off too. Rears are like new, You'd hope they would be considering they're only on the car from the start of November. Wheels on I backed it into the garage and got to work. At this point I just wanted to get the car done so theres not many photos here. What I did was: -Polish the exhaust before touching the paint. -Wipe down the car again to get any dust off it. -Detar the paintwork (Including the door jambs) -Went around the car with Meguiars ultimate compound. -Wiped the car down to remove any extra compound I had a hard time buffing off. -Moved onto polishing the whole car with Meguiars ultimate polish. -Again wiped the car down to remove any excess polish. Always have a hard time with buffing the megs ultimate stuff, but its what i'm used to. -Went around and gave it a coat of Poorboys world White diamond and Black hole glaze where appropriate. -Finished the car off with Collinite 845, never tried it so wanted to see if it lived up to the hype. Was told that it only takes a tiny amount of it to do a whole car so I changed the cap to one off of an empty bottle of meguiars ultimate liquid wax. Helped me limit how much I put on. It is astonishing how little of this stuff you need. Put it on thin and its a breeze to buff off too. Car came out great. Some before and afters: Rear: Wheel: (Since I swapped them front to back the drivers front now has the roughest wheel out of the ones I painted.) So far I've been very impressed with the Collinite, It takes very little to do a car so it'll last forever, its much cheaper than my previous favourite Meguiars Ultimate liquid wax. It went on and buffed off much easier than the Turtlewax hardshell paste wax which is what I most recently used. It beads better than anything else I've used and apparantly it'll last for a long time too. Supposedly combining collinite with menzerna powerlock is meant to make it last even longer and give it even more gloss. Nonetheless just the collinite has done a superb job.

I had both front DCC struts replaced at 56000 miles but they started misting at 45000 miles had to wait till they started leaking properly before they would replace under warranty

Amazing guide @JR RS and this helped me out massively. Just a few things I wanted to add to this, if you are met with High beam shutter faults after the conversion as shown in the picture below then the following adaptation changes are needed relating to Leuchte10SHUTTER and Leuchte11SHUTTER which are the left and right shutters, these are not fitted anymore so they need disabling as shown below Module 09 - Central Electronics - Security access 31347 ENG116946-ENG116072-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimming Direction CD 10 maximize ENG116946-ENG116076-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimming Direction EF 10 maximize ENG116946-ENG116080-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimming Direction GH 10 maximize ENG116946-ENG116067-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimmwert AB 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116071-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimmwert CD 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116075-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimmwert EF 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116079-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Dimmwert GH 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116064-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116560-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lampendefektbitposition 10 0 ENG116946-ENG116062-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lasttyp 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116068-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtansteuerung HD AB 10 Always ENG116946-ENG116065-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion A 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116066-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion B 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116069-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion C 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116070-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion D 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116073-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion E 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116074-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion F 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116077-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion G 10 not active ENG116946-ENG116078-Leuchte10SHUTTER LB23-Lichtfunktion H 10 not active ENG116947-ENG116091-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimming Direction CD 11 maximize ENG116947-ENG116095-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimming Direction EF 11 maximize ENG116947-ENG116099-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimming Direction GH 11 maximize ENG116947-ENG116086-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimmwert AB 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116090-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimmwert CD 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116094-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimmwert EF 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116098-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Dimmwert GH 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116083-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116561-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lampendefektbitposition 11 0 ENG116947-ENG116081-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lasttyp 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116087-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtansteuerung HD AB 11 Always ENG116947-ENG116084-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion A 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116085-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion B 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116088-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion C 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116089-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion D 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116092-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion E 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116093-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion F 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116096-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion G 11 not active ENG116947-ENG116097-Leuchte11SHUTTER RB22-Lichtfunktion H 11 not active Another addition I had was that the eyelashes would not work even when you follow the VCDS guide, this is due to them have no prior adaptations to actually turn on the channels. The below adaptations also fix these Leuchte16 and Leuchte17 are the eyelashes. (Below adaptations enable them all the time when the lights are on) ENG116952-ENG116186-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimming Direction CD 16 maximize ENG116952-ENG116190-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimming Direction EF 16 maximize ENG116952-ENG116194-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimming Direction GH 16 maximize ENG116952-ENG116181-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimmwert AB 16 127 ENG116952-ENG116185-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimmwert CD 16 100 ENG116952-ENG116189-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimmwert EF 16 0 ENG116952-ENG116193-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Dimmwert GH 16 0 ENG116952-ENG116178-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 16 26 ENG116952-ENG116567-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lampendefektbitposition 16 35 ENG116952-ENG116176-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lasttyp 16 43 - allgemeine LED ENG116952-ENG116182-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtansteuerung HD AB 16 Always ENG116952-ENG116179-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion A 16 Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht) ENG116952-ENG116180-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion B 16 Parklicht links (beidseitiges Parklicht aktiviert li & re) ENG116952-ENG116183-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion C 16 Daytime running lights ENG116952-ENG116184-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion D 16 not active ENG116952-ENG116187-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion E 16 not active ENG116952-ENG116188-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion F 16 not active ENG116952-ENG116191-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion G 16 not active ENG116952-ENG116192-Leuchte16BLK SLB35BLK SL KC9-Lichtfunktion H 16 not active ENG116953-ENG116205-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimming Direction CD 17 maximize ENG116953-ENG116209-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimming Direction EF 17 maximize ENG116953-ENG116213-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimming Direction GH 17 maximize ENG116953-ENG116200-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimmwert AB 17 127 ENG116953-ENG116204-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimmwert CD 17 100 ENG116953-ENG116208-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimmwert EF 17 0 ENG116953-ENG116212-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Dimmwert GH 17 0 ENG116953-ENG116197-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC 17 27 ENG116953-ENG116568-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lampendefektbitposition 17 3F ENG116953-ENG116195-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lasttyp 17 43 - allgemeine LED ENG116953-ENG116201-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtansteuerung HD AB 17 Always ENG116953-ENG116198-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion A 17 Standlicht allgemein (Schlusslicht: Positionslicht: Begrenzungslicht) ENG116953-ENG116569-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion B 17 Parking light right ENG116953-ENG116202-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion C 17 Daytime running lights ENG116953-ENG116203-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion D 17 not active ENG116953-ENG116206-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion E 17 not active ENG116953-ENG116207-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion F 17 not active ENG116953-ENG116210-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion G 17 not active ENG116953-ENG116211-Leuchte17TFL R BLK SRB3TFL R BLK SR KC3-Lichtfunktion H 17 not active This is just in addition to JR's amazing post and should help anyone out that ran into the same issues as me.

got a new one my third!

The pre-facelift Superb comes with:- - halogen setup headlights - bi-xenon with DRL setup headlights - bi-xenon with DRL & SLA. The facelift Superb is a different design, requiring a different bumper. It uses LED lighting instead of bi-xenons. Someone with a pre-facelift has done this retrofit. I don't know wat was involved. As @SashaGracementioned - it's a massive job to retrofit bi-xenons. Too many other components involved like:- - AFS leveling sensors. 2x upfront,1x rear. - AFS module. - 2x AFS slave modules - wiring harnesses - upgraded BCM module I would recommend upgrading the halogen bulbs to better rated ones.