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Just missed the sunset

Latest retrofit completed successfully - illuminated door sills They're the geniune Skoda ones. Its a lot of hassle for "illuminated door sills", but i like how it looks. adds a nice touch. I'm very happy with it. Wiring was basically plug'n'play. no extra coding required. i didn't disconnect the battery so i didn't have to deal with any xmas lights on the dash, or recalibrate anything. Removing the C-connector from the BCM module is tricky as the access is tight. but once out, removing the two pins and plugging in the other 2 wires was quick n easy. having a wire trim removal tool is a must, otherwise don't bother. The routing of the door sill wiring was the hard bit. wiring is required to go from the driver's side door sill, to the back, across the back seat, then back up to the passenger door sill, then finally end up in the BCM module under the A-pillar. to do that, u need to:- - remove rear seat bench - remove rear seat side bolster - remove driver's side door sill trim panel - remove passenger side door sill trim panel - remove passenger side lower trim panel, below glovebox. - remove dashboard side panel, below the A-pillar, beside the glovebox the finished product....... Rear seat bench anchor points; rear seaat side bolsters (beware of the airbag). fixture points at the back of the door sill trim panel. one is behind the side bolster. the other is under the seat. fixture of door sill trim behind the side bolster. watch out for that yellow black connector as that is one of the crash sensors. underside of door sill trim panel, showing anchor points. door sill trim panel removed. BCM C-connector removed; With wiring in place and shroud put back. Old door sill removed. All cleaned up. Took less than 5 mins to do thanks to the Caramel Wheel. Factory cut-out under the door rubber seal, for the illuminated door sill wiring to thread through.

Astromode on a Pixel 3a. It autodetected the tripod and did a 56 second exposure!

Don't get alloy wheels stolen very often any more. I have removed them from both of my Skoda's and just fitted normal wheel bolts and normal caps. Lockers are made by Mcgard:- https://mcgard.com/automotive/wheel-locks/ Thanks, AG Falco

The reason for no replies is that it can be many things,it's a matter of checking things out one at a time i'm afraid, most likely if you check codes it will say overboost or under boost pressure fault this is most common and is usually caused by the turbo not working orrectly and needs a clean out (sooted up) it can also be turbo air intake/manifold/ egr pipes weak afecting pressure loss, loose pipe clips cracks in the pipes faulty pressure switches but by far the most common is the turbo sticking, at the moment turning car off and restarting will clear fault but it will get worse and will be in limp home mode all the time, some people use mr muscle oven cleaner but you really need to remove exhaust pipe at the turbo and do this direct not squirt it in manifold, my mate freed his by putting wynns turbo cleaner in half a tank of fuel instead of a full tank ran car for 2 days and then prised arm on turbo actuater that opens and closes turbo back and forth untill it moved freely, when he stated it only moved around an inch but when he finnished it was moving around 2-3 inches it was stiff but he kept moving it back and forth and this fault never came back, the garge told him that the turbo had gone and would cost around £900 to fix but in fact it cost him all in around £30

[ ETA: as a possibly more accurate alternative to marking up for hinge and bonnet alignment before removal, and not as hinge replacements ] - Another method of keeping hinge alignment, if possible, is to drill little alignment hole(s) in hinge plate(s) where you can use a small diameter self-taping screw to align and hold the hinges whilst bolts are put back. Also the use of clean cloths of sufficient thickness to protect paintwork or even gap or support bonnet rear corners on some cars.

Six years ago - test fitting my controversial wheels after they arrived from the UK.

The camera is poor very poor. Auto wipers not great. Slight rubbing noise from drivers window. Road noise not great. And door handle plastic let's it down. No light what used to be the ashtray area if you know what I mean. All small things I know but my 2018 superb sportline was better but not better if you know what I mean. I love the lights the boot is amazing gearbox nice mabe a bit slow at low revs but that's fine. Just after having skoda for 12 years out of the last 16 years this one seems less value then the rest. No its value compared to kia vw volvo but just feel like there resting on there name at this stage. Looks good drives good but the value has now gone. You get what you pay for

So, what is this project and why did i restart it? I kind of lost some motivation on the the first project thread and sort of gave up, the old topic was kind of messy, unrelated posts etc. and because I started the original project back in 2014 (nearly 2 years ago!) I know if I looked back through it, a lot of photos would be deleted or no longer visible, I'm going to lay out this topic in a similar way to the topic on Mighty Car Mods. When the topic first started out, I had no big plans for the car, how much the car has transformed over the years has been down to 2 main factors, Briskoda.net and Updown789, who I met through Briskoda just over a year ago, his help with the car has been huge and without him, the car wouldn't be what it is today. We've had our moments at times and disagreements, but we have always looked back and laughed about them. (I also mustn't forget Stormchaser, who has also lent a hand or 2 every once and a while and provided a few parts for the car as well as anyone else who has helped me and I haven't named.) Let's get into things.. to keep things short and sweet, I'll post all the major changes that have been made (so I won't bother posting about the Heko wind deflectors etc.).. i'll be honest too, during my time of ownership I have done some mighty **** looking modifications and made mistakes for choosing modifications that haven't exactly looked great.. it's all about learning from your mistakes though.. right..? This is going to be a mighty long first post. 14th January 2013, the day I bought the car, a standard Citigo SE model in Tornado Red with the winter pack (heated seats, electric heated mirrors) and 14" Apus wheels. 12th June 2014 - I crashed. (Not my fault, doing the speed limit and a deer came out and I had nowhere to go.) The parts damaged were: - Bonnet - Headlight - Headlight bracket - Bumper to side panel clip - Inner wheel arch - Side panel - Front bumper 18th July 2014 - Debadged the rear after being motivated to do it by Stormchaser. (Apologies I haven't got a great picture. Also this was done whilst the car was still being repaired.) 24th July 2014 - Finally the car was repaired, having 0 knowledge of cars and how parts worked, I fitted and sourced all the parts myself from eBay & Skoda, the wing I bought did need respraying and due to my lack of knowledge on cars, the person who resprayed the wing, didn't use the cars paint code so, it's not the right shade of red. The wheels were also resprayed black, by again the same person, this was also done on the cheap as I later found obvious runs in the paint and it was done with the tyre still on the wheel. 23rd March 2015 - It begins.. having purchased a incorrectly described headlight switch, which was chrome, I wanted chrome to match the chrome heater controls, turns out it was from an Up! so illuminated red and not green, however this prompted me to wanting to change all the lights in the car to red, as I liked the look and colour, so I got some Volkswagen Up! heater controls & buttons to match. 14th April 2015 - First of many big changes, H&R lowering springs. (35mm.) 19th April 2015 (An educated guess..) - Changed front grille over to a Monte Carlo one from the OEM Chrome one. (Again IIRC, this was originally Stormchaser's.) 21st May 2015 - After noticing my front numberplates were tired and worn I changed them out for some funky 3D effect number plates. 11th June 2015 - Without a doubt in my mind the worst modification I have ever done, I got completely fobbed off by an eBay seller and bought what I thought were genuine leather seats, which it turned out, was just leather sprayed onto the original cloth seats (if you think they look rubbish in the photos, just imagine what they looked like in person! :D) 20th June 2015 - Upgraded the speakers to FLI ones. (No pictures due to limitations on how many pictures can be posted to one single post on Briskoda.) 11th July 2015 - FLI Rear speakers added. (Had none in the rear from factory.) (No pictures due to limitations on how many pictures can be posted to one single post on Briskoda.) 17th July 2015 - Volkswagen Up! radio finally fitted to match the heater controls, also, this is gloss black opposed to the standard plastic look the Skoda Citigo radio has. 22nd August 2015 - Functioning autolights with coming and leaving home function enabled via VCDS. 28th September 2015 - Another addition to the red theme, W8 Interior Light. 2nd October 2015 - Actual leather seats! Okay, not 100% leather, rather a mix of both pleather and leather done by Seat Surgeons in West Yorkshire. 4th October 2015 - Following on with more leather bits, a Volkswagen Up! leather handbrake and Gearknob. 17th October 2015 - Said goodbye to the H&R springs and upgraded to KW Variant 1 Coilovers (secondhand) to lower the car that ever so slightly more. An up to date picture just after the coilovers. 17th - 18th November 2015 - Had the car professionally detailed and paintwork also corrected, 20 hours labour. 3rd December 2015 - Dewipered. (The plastic bung was soon replaced with a flush glass one.) 9th January 2016 - Continuing with the leather theme, MK3 Skoda Octavia leather MF steering wheel. 13th February 2016 - MY16 Skoda CItigo Monte Carlo cherry red centre console fitted. 23rd March 2016 - No photos.. however the car was remapped by EcoTuning with a map from Celtic Tuning.. what this started was a complete change in terms of what route I was taking the car down. 13th April 2016 - Chopped off the resonance chamber from the OEM intake pipe. Now with a remap, I was on the hunt for more power from the 1.0 engine, this one mod is what started a long road to find the best intake pipe I could make/find. 17th April 2016 - More attempts to gain power, with Updown789's help, we de-restricted the filter box. (This was of course smoothed.) 5th May 2016 - Redid the intake pipe with a Silicone bend. And also picked up some freshly refurbished Volkswagen Avus wheels found on the old Volkswagen Cabriolets, these wheels were originally in Updown789's possession however I purchased them from him and had them diamond cut and resprayed by Motura in Ferndown. 13th May 2016 - It turned out the silicone pipe was rubbing on the bonnet, so this was scrapped and using some intake ducting I bought of eBay a year or so back, I came up with a design and found a way I can have a pipe coming from behind the grille direct to the filter box. This will soon again change as this "design" so to speak was revised 3 or 4 times before being final. 17th May 2016 - Again, changed the intake pipe, got rid of the Silicone bend as it really wasn't needed. 24th May 2016 - Took the car again to Motura to have the OEM Skoda Citigo Sport splitter and diffuser fitted as well as a gloss black OEM Volkswagen Up! spoiler. Present (9th June 2016) - Exterior - 2017 Monte Carlo Taillights (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4818255) Lamin-X Yellow Fog Lights Volkswagen golf MK4 Amber side indicators Summer wheels - Atec F1 16" Bronze Alloys (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4927424) Winter wheels - OEM Apus 14" Black Alloys Track wheels - Atec Ultralite 16" Bronze Alloys (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4761617) Rear wiper delete Front and rear mudflaps (OEM) Heko wind deflectors Debadged on the rear Rear diffuser from the Sport model Front splitter from the Sport model Volkswagen Up! gloss black spoiler Interior - 2016 Skoda Citigo Monte Carlo centre console (cherry red) MK3 Skoda Octavia / Superb / MK1 Kodiaq MFSW (Alcantara) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4884232) Volkswagen Up! radio Volkswagen Up! heater module Volkswagen Golf MK4 Auto Headlight Switch with functioning autolights Front speakers changed Duel cigarette lighter socket (1x cigarette socket 1x duel USB ports) Audi TT Pedals Volkswagen Up! Gear knob Volkswagen Up! Leather hand brake Rear seats and belts removed Corbeau Club Sport bucket seats Carpet and headliner removed Interior trims removed with exception to front door cards and upper centre console Lower centre console removed Engine - Celtic Tuning Stage 1 Remap Custom intake setup (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4856024) Oil Temp Sensor (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4728108) Brakes & Suspension/Handling - KW Coilovers Rear Bilstein B6 Shocks & H&R Springs Front (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4914123) MTEC grooved discs EBC Yellowstuff pads (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4937872) ATE Typ200 brake fluid (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4937872) Wiechers Sport Rear Strut Brace (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4703931) Wiechers Sport Front Strut Brace (Upper) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4845123) Wiechers Sport Front Strut Brace (Lower) (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4943302) Powerflex polyurethane front top mounts (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=4836785) Whiteline rear anti roll bar (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/402104-davids-citigo-20/?do=findComment&comment=5040708) VCDS - Tear wipe Autolock after 5MPH Coming home/leaving home lights (30 Seconds) The car has certainly come a long way in the last year. I had originally planned to have it show spec and pristine. I've had a theme of "Black and Red". Then moved onto having an "old style" theme with the old classic wheels and amber side repeaters along with chrome grille. As of current, the future plan is and will be to have the car as powerful as I can make it without damaging the engine and do as many track days as possible. We'll see where it takes me from there.

As you would've seen by now, we have reverted to using the forum for posting in the marketplace. To make things easier and, to make selling your items a breeze, we've added a 'For Sale Template'. On your editor toolbar, you'll now find a 'Lightening Bolt', this is called stock replies. Clicking this will bring up another box. Clicking the 'For Sale Post Template' and, the editor pop will be populated with an editable template. Please try to add as much detail to your for sale post as possible.

If you're certain it's faulty then simply replace it, they're not very expensive. You can't clean it because they can't get dirty so I've no idea what that nonsense is about.

I've disconnected the battery, waited a while and connected it again, still no suvess. Will remove the whole radio unit and try that also. Regarding replacing the radio unit with another DANCE model, 2nd hand. Would this be easy like plug and play or how does it work with the radio codes? Are the codes unique to the specific unit or?

Indeed! I'm a big Runrig fan, with that being one of my favourite albums. I went to see them a few years back at the last concert up in Stirling.

Thats rear traffic alert system, it does pick up all moving objects, but wont stop you reversing into a wall!

TDK - retro

Have you checked the glove box? Tyre fitters seem to prefer slipping locking wheel bolt key back there rather than where they found it in the boot.

Thanks so much for your reply 😊 I tried to contact someone with VCDS to enable what option

Didn't have the first one but did have the second. Thanks Lee. Will download these when home and include as such. Will do once home since I'm away from the laptop.

Electrical system.pdfInspection and maintenance.pdfEngine ASZ.pdfEngine ATD.pdf

Chassis.pdf

52521784-skoda-fabia-2000-maintenance.pdfBodywork.pdfBody Repairs.pdfAir Conditioning.pdf

Update, if you're interested. I got the bonnet off thanks to the HatBoyHarvey video above - two T40 bolts each side. The hinges were also held on by two T40 bolts each. There is a round black grommet each side to get to one of them - the ones that are nearer the front of the car. For the rear ones there was limited space - on the driver's side I was able to get enough space for a tiny ratchet spanner by stopping the wipers in the vertical position to get the wiper arm out of the way. I marked round the hinges before removing to help realignment later. In the pic I have reattached the bolts where the hinges go, to avoid losing them.

Have you got these two, Ryan? SkodaFabia_Accessories_en.pdf fabia_origacc.pdf

Sorted, it wasn't too hard either, the engine bracket is the worst part. Fingers crossed now there's no more EML and hopefully it runs a little better

2 months old, just had a wash. Love this colour. In the sun it's not 'just red' it's really quite deep.

@GizmoI have sent you a PM also, I have VCDS HEX-CAN and ODIS located South East/London - Potters Bar. Thank you

Good luck. If I were you, I would reason with the dealer along the lines of: This car was sold twice by you & only ever serviced by you Timing chain problems are a very well-known issue on this engine You complained about a "noisy startup" to them in the past, which you have now learned is a key symptom of timing chain issues Timing chains don't suddenly go bad overnight, usually the symptoms develop over time and you had been mentioning the noisy startups to them since 2017! They had several service opportunities during which they could have picked it up but didn't You expect better more pro-active service experience from them given they are a main-deleter and supposed to be the experts Probably unlikely they are going to cover the entire bill for a car of this age/mileage - but they should make a significant contribution

There seems to be a lot of speculation on this thread, I fail to understand why VAG owners don't simply buy a genuine VCDS cable (start at approx £225) and get a proper scan with real error codes rather than try to interpret generic codes. Every tdi owner must know by now that a glow plug error light is simply a cover for a multitude of errors which can only be identified by a VCDS scan ... or you could continue to throw funds at random parts until you luck on the correct part.

Pulling out all the stops again man! Always so helpful for people. Looks good, how much did they set you back?

Ordered from Kopacek during their 20% sale, arrived in reasonable amount of time. Was almost going to blow £21 at local dealer for the fitting templates, but then decided line of sight would be as easy

Looks good! Think I saw them on your post on the Brisky FB page.

Top Gears underlings review . https://www.topgear.com/videos/tg-tested/watch-top-gears-hyundai-i20n-review

I had to set the 4th one down in the list to yes too, now they’re on

Have you managed to loosen the fill plug OK? Best not to drain the box before making sure you can...

Ok, smash was perhaps the wrong word. Maybe encourage would have been more apt 🤔🙃

Remove fuse 20 and put your current meter in series with the contacts where it plugs in, see if there's half an Amp going through it. You could measure mV across its ends with it still in position if it's the fuse type that has exposed metal pads on the top surface, see here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/377587-technical-bulletin-about-parasitic-current-draw-measurement/ Measure all the other fuses if that one doesn't register any mV. I've personally found in a few cars I've looked at that 30 minutes is a good time to leave things to shut down, and that having doors open and car not locked doesn't matter. May well vary with model.

Indeed. I'd definitely give a try with my wife

Try smashing in the next size up Allen, or even a torx bit with a hammer

There, you just have to ask the right question next time.

Chademo on Leaf/Outlander will auto-unlock when finished charging. Unfortunately the now widely adopted CCS is controlled by the car, despite the plug belongs to the charge operator. I agree, we need: 1 - Many many rapid chargers at single location (single chargers are useless, source of charger anxiety) 2 - 7kW AC chargers nearby 3 - Rapid charger plugs unlock and rapid charger becomes available for new customer when charge rate drops below 10kW 4 - At below 5kW (for example), per-kWh unit price doubles to encourage people to move on But of course this is when over 70%, let's say. Don't want people being charged double when cold-gating...... or do we? This way would make those cars undesirable and we get better EV's.

Perfect - thats the bit that has broken. Didn't know that you could buy just that bit.

What differences are there between Superb and Golf engine? Given the latter is 300 to start with. Also, they started with 280, then went to 272…but then went back up to 280? That’s what mine is on a 2021 plate… Def agree on the q-car thing. Love that. Enjoy the new car @RedLineZ

The problem is most car manufacturers globally are experiencing long delays with uncertain delivery times or dates. If Toyota are less than 4 months (and I don't think that is the case across the range when we were in the dealers looking for a car for the wife the other week), the response from most manufacturers would be to go to Toyota and get a car from them. Personally speaking, do I want to wait for an unspecified time for the car I ordered to be manufactured and delivered? No Is there anything else out there that ticks all the boxes I want in a car for a comparative price? No Therefore my choice is do I go for a compromise vehicle sooner or wait for the car I really want? I did consider nearly new (Superb Sportline, Audi A4/6, BMW 5 series), but choice is also limited especially in the spec and options I want and most potentials from those cost over the £40k new list price barrier, and I'll be damned if I'm paying the government an additional £500 a year in tax for five years.

Sorry to disagree, but you don't need to heel and toe to get more control out of a manual gearbox. There's all sorts of ways in which a manual gearbox is better even without heeling and toeing. For example, when turning into a side road you can precisely time when you lift the clutch to apply drive to the wheels, so you can change gear just before you turn and then accelerate away exactly when you want to. An automatic gearbox does not know that you are turning a sharp corner so there is no ability to control this. In theory you should be able to manually drop down a gear using the paddles but still there is no ability to time when drive is applied. It is just not as smooth. Another example is when accelerating away from stationary (maybe to join a roundabout). With a manual car you select the gear then lift the clutch when you want to go. It is instantaneous. With a DSG it takes its time before going, and the degree of acceleration is very hard to anticipate because you have to push the accelerator hard enough to get it going (no clutch to control this) but if you push just a little bit too hard the gearbox drops a gear and all hell breaks loose! There is just not the subtlety of control you get with a manual gearbox. One big issue is that you never really know exactly which gear the car is in if you are in Drive as there is no indication. Let's say there is a corner that I know is best taken in 3 and I am approaching it in Drive. I press the left hand paddle to drop a gear but the gearbox was in 6. It drops down to 5 which I only know by looking at the display. If I then try to drop to 3 by pressing the LH paddle twice it is a down-shift within the odd gearbox and therefore takes at least a second to happen, which is quite a long time and impossible to anticipate the timing when you are going round a corner. In a manual gearbox I know the car is in 6 and then I can block-shift to 3, applying the drive exactly when I want to by lifting the clutch. I do this all the time when driving but it is so difficult to do well with a DSG. I think a big issue when people compare a DSG (or any automatic gearbox) to a manual is that they compare how long it takes to change gear. In my view this is just not the point. The reality is that with a manual gearbox you are totally and absolutely in control of the point at which drive is applied to the wheels by control of the clutch. With a DSG it is a very moveable feast. Furthermore with a manual gearbox you know exactly which gear the car is in at all times because you put it into that gear, and you have the gearstick to remind you as well. With an automatic gearbox you either do not know which gear it is in, or have to look at the display to know (if it is in Manual or Sport mode). Finally in a similar vein when you are accelerating you never know exactly when the gearbox will change gear just because you have pressed the accelerator that little bit harder. Some of the time this does not matter, but when you want to drive with finesse it makes it very hard to do so. I could go on and on about the shortcomings for me of an automatic gearbox, but suffice it to say that I just do not find it possible to control the car as well with one when compared to a manual gearbox. The only time it is somewhat better is in traffic when you can just sit there and only have to press the accelerator. But for me that is not enough of an advantage to overcome the shortcomings.

Thanks, that's my Enyaq upgraded according to this video, it feels so good not to have wires trailing through the passenger footwell and glovebox. The instructions were pretty much spot on, except for the following: Rather than piggy-backing onto the rear window heater, I used a spare fuse socket just above it; I checked first that the power was linked to the ignition with a multi meter. I did use a piggyback fuse for the + outlet as the wiring loom is really thin and I'm scared of breaking it. I drilled a 10mm hole in the plastic panel hidden behind the glovebox so I could get the Torx driver properly aligned - I didn't want to drop that bolt into the dashboard internals while getting a negative earth. I made sure the USB lead did not obstruct the side curtain airbag, this also means it comes out of the headliner at the soft join at the top of the A-pillar right in the corner of the windscreen. I didn't bother with tucking the cable into the top of the screen, I passed it through the visor hinges, but I can always go back and fix that later if it becomes trouble/annoying. Thanks

Made some RallyFlapz to fit with the Rieger skirts... and fitted some Briskoda decals.

Scan it with VCDS, that takes all of 5 minutes and will give you far more information.