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Done Driveshaft arrived yesterday, so got that fitted, gearbox oil filled, lovely traditional fill to spill box in these no set figure like the 5 speeds, Coolant in and run up and took her out for a spin today 15 miles so far all good, I’ll get some miles on her this week then give her a good inspection. Got some back seats going in next week and I need to find a gti washer bottle top as it clips into header tank and original doesn’t fit but no rush. I’ll link in a little YouTube walk round I’ve done hope you all enjoy

Ne klič hudiča 😆

Hi all, I should have been a member long time ago, I finally did it last week. Thanks all for such a nice forum and members. So, here is some story about my Skoda love. I remember the day my brother and I convinced my father to buy Octavia Mk1 in a shopping centre when we saw it and he bought couple of months later in 2003, and I learned how to drive a car on my father's Octavia 2003 Business edition 1.6mpi, that was a great car served our family really well. My brother also learned how to drive on that car. First time I meet up with a car with my wife it was with my father's car, and so many family trips and histories with that Octavia. It has been part exchanged for new Octavia Mk3 in 2017, so my father is quite a fan and, I guess that he will drive an Octavia until he dies. He forced even his friends, his dentist, neighbours to buy one, and they did buy! Also, my brother has 2015 Fabia Mk3 special order with sport steering wheels, sport suspensions etc. He has been working on the car whenever he can, a lot mileage and he did a recent DSG overhaul and so on. Anyway about my story, I have owned 2016 Fabia Mk3 and I had to sold it two years later because of a job, same colour and very similar to my brother's but not that sporty. Before the marriage my missus bought 2017 Fabia too. She still keeps it. My father in-law was retired in 2019 and he immediately bought a Skoda Karoq Edition, he wanted that car so much and fell in love with it. Unfortunately he passed away after driving it for few months in 2020, later that car has been sold. The reason that prompted my registration to forum is that I have sold my Fiesta and we bought a Skoda Karoq 1.5TSI SE L Meteor Grey recently. I hope that this Karoq will serve our family well and as a memento for my father in-law. I guess that it is good enough evidence that as a family we are Skoda fans. I believe that there are families that love Skoda this much too. All the best to everyone and happy many miles in Skoda!

It is making it clearer that range is so dependant on what temperature it is when you leave home particularly in winter. This morning quite warm start, Zoe showing 215 miles at the start of the 55 miles to Oxford airport but the car loved the warm drive in ECO mode across the Cotswolds and when I got to Oxford airport I still had 180 miles shown and had only 19% according to the state of charge indicator. This is incredible and my range is well up to the 225 miles range I have not seen for 6 months and if it continues ie I am doing more travel with the EV in the 13 to 22 C of ambient and battery temperature I am sure it will be back up to 240 miles range. Cracking the winter range, and seeing the motorway/truck charging network, using Telsa or new Gridserve chargers will revert and even go beyond what range I was seeing back in early September when I first got the car. It is this temperature relationship I would like to have been clearer ie it is a graduation from the 15 C ambient down through the 10,5, and zero when that range has chunks taken out of it.

Last update for now. I've finally got the interior looking presentable. I've mixed and matched a few sets of seats and door cards to get to this stage. I still need to swap over some front seat base foams, but over all its 1000x better then the tip it was when I got it.

And as it stands now with a years ticket on it. YeeeeeHaaaaa. (I know I've got to raise the rear exhaust box a bit!)

Yeah we used to fit them on PDI for some classic customers. The kit of 4 x rubbing strips used to be dirt cheap back in the day. Quite a few fitted too high or too low though, used to make my teeth itch looking at them.

Yes it clears the water but does not apply brakes so the car is not braking or possibly aqua planing. So really what a owner needs sometimes after a service of a car is a 2nd and honest opinion from those not up-selling in the way too many UK Dealerships do.

There is a need for a better system than WLTP and the fiction that comes from that.

if my dealer started bleeting on about the situation in Ukraine and feeling sorry etc i'd tell him to **** off! ref other rangers affected you'd think it would indeed mean semi chips assigned to those cars going to models that can be completed surely.

Thank you all for your support! I think i got it figured out. I took an extra pair of hands to test the sparks and there was no spark. So i decided to wiggle connectors at engine bay but no joy. Swapped back the original crank sensor and got sparks! Assembled everything back together and started the car. Fired up very good. Wiggled the sensors connector while at idle and the car shut off. So i think the problem was bad connector and Non OE sensor combo. The connectors pins seem fine (no corrosion) but i can see broken isolation right next to the connector so i think i am going to change the pins so i could attach new wires to them, or just look for a new connector. Thank you all again and i will post here if there is still a problem. Hope that will help someone solve their's

What's your aim? You won't get any more performance than a good condition stock filter and intake. A turbo inlet elbow and a performance filter/induction kit will offer marginally more response. If you are after more whoosh noise then go for it. Speak to a local garage who you might get to do the work and ask them for advice.

Similar duty to Q102..MK and A roads. 2.0l TSI 220. I get on average 30mpg

@MesaSunriseThat's good news, hope the work gets sorted soon. In terms of further warranty, if you are intending to keep having it serviced by a main dealer, then the 'All In' plan is good value. In addition to a two year extended warranty, you also get two oil and inspection services (one of which will be 'extended scope', and you can also get a new set of spark plugs, air filter and pollen filter included), two MOT's, and two years of roadside assistance. It costs £32 per month for two years, or £768 upfront. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/all-in-service-plan

ColinD already commented on the thread, so I will just point out that we won’t be carrying on an argument past that point. Just accept people have different views and speak to others as you would like to be spoken to yourself 👍

Skoda have said in their previous press releases that the cars supplied with wiring harnesses from the Ukraine are the Kamiq, Scala and Enyaq. Whilst obviously it’s going to add more disruption on top of the semiconductor I’m not sure a dealer should be so flippant. Yes the war is awful. And a delay to a car delivery pales into insignificance in that respect. But I doubt Skoda would be so ‘understanding’ in reverse if our payments were months late due to ‘a war’ and we couldn’t tell them when we’d next pay them. Not that you know the world situation isn’t a good reason for delay. It is. It’s just that Skoda should really be able to give some proper timeframes to people. Even if they are realistic and it’s an awful situation and they have to tell people it will be a year then at least they’d be communicating. But the real problem is not the delay but the fact they have no real systems in place to manage their customers. I remember a few years back my dad ordered a car, can’t remember which and he could watch it being built via online video etc. Now it’s just a shambolic mess of relying on your dealer to update and relying on Skoda UK to tell them the score. That for me is the failing. As customers we should be able to log in and track our orders. That’s a basic. It’s 2022. You’ve been able to track orders online for 20 odd years. And that doesn’t have anything to do with the chip shortage or a war!

2017 Skoda Octavia fitted with Adaptive Cruise Control & adjustable limiter. This vehicle had front assist from the factory We can also add ACC to cars without front assist, however there are additional costs involved. Completely error free & operating asif factory fit 😎

Here I just want to give a few observations and tips, as a non-mechanic, from when I fitted the front brake pads and discs to my wife’s Fabia Mk3. The job is easy and easier than the few other front brake pads and discs replacements I've done. There are videos of the job being done online, some more thorough than others, so I won’t be going through a step-by-step explanation as I’d not be as good as the videos. Along with the usual tools you need a hex H7 (7mm) bar/tip, (ratchet) socket or 7mm large Allen key, none of which I had in any of my tool kits and a Torx T30 tip or screwdriver. Different from what some videos show it’s now recommended not to use copper grease but Ceratec on metal-to-metal contact areas (only) which is the pad ears and where the pad ears move on the caliper. The two slide pins on each calliper were a bit of a pain and took time to clean the crud off without scratching so next time I’d buy new pins and it wouldn’t slow the process. You do not use Ceratec on the caliper guide pins because they go into a rubber part, the pins either go back in dry or you can use Hydratec for rubber contact (I used red rubber grease as I have a tin of it that will last me a lifetime). The pads have clips of different size for caliper side and other side of piston and the ones I got had two of the four marked “piston side” so with them you can’t go wrong (but I did! I put two outer pads on the first caliper despite the markings). You could perhaps use GT85 spray on the caliper piston rubber seals, I forgot. - https://gt85.co.uk/ I had the loan of a caliper rewind tool but careful use of other more basic tools would have worked fine, do check that the brake fluid will not overfill or overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back. A Torx T30 tip or screwdriver is needed to remove the one screw on the discs. After brushing and cleaning the hub I put some Ceratec grease on the hub where it touches the brake disc as it does rust there a bit. That’s it for the brakes but associated tips for the wheels and their bolts. Some Owner's Manual have to always undo the lock bolts first and replace them last, I place them opposite the tyre valve as a reminder of tightening order and if they've been moved then the garage might have taken the wheel off. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW use of wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). HTH.

***Long geeky post alert*** Going off the battery label part number in you pic, you have one of these AGMs currently as in the pic below and it looks like the original battery. Check the date on the +ve terminal and it should show Mm/yy format (expecting a 12 for the year if original fit). 7P0 915 105 VARTA AGM Stop start is currently not working as the battery has fatigued and the car has recognised this. (There is a lot more hidden functionality to the Stop Start set up other than just cutting and restarting the engine.) For Stop Start functions, ideally you should swap like for like AGM tech battery. For your usage pattern, the 2 reasons for this are…. 1, AGM is the best tech for Stop Start functionality as it is handles the tougher duty cycle the vehicle is set up to operate under. Fitting a lesser tech battery such as EFB or standard flooded won’t have much of a performance impact short term and stop start functionality will be restored but they will be under more operational stress and wear out quicker with vehicle use. 2, As you are barely using the vehicle, the battery if left connected with monthly external charging cycles will be in a constant pattern of discharge/ recharge. AGM is the best battery tech to handle this type of duty cycle as it is more resistant to sulphation damage during discharge phases and recovers best on a recharge. Lesser tech won’t recover from discharge damage as well as AGM adding to a faster demise than what you have experienced so far. A third reason to stick with AGM is that by regular discharge/ recharge cycling, batteries are more at risk of drying out. AGM are valve regulated to prevent this, EFB and flooded are more vented and lose moisture quicker putting them at greater risk of ‘popping’ after a few years of the same regime. For a battery of 10 years aged and only now showing fatigue is exceptional for the duty cycle it’s operating under and is a testament to AGM performance. It’s been well maintained but is now wearing out. You won’t get the same longevity from lesser tech batteries if you are planning on keeping the car for a good few years yet.

Carista does the job too and is VAG specific so may be worth a try too.

Yeah. Well, that’s not true. Oh did I say I “do it all day”? I don’t and it doesn’t. Really? Who told you that then? How many F1 drivers do you know, or have even had a conversation with? I know two and have met at least 10 others and not one of them have said they get “used” to the acceleration, the braking and cornering abilities and the speed, far from it in fact. They all say you have to have the utmost respect for the car or it’s performance will bite you. “…..the relatively slow 276bhp Superb 4x4” Really? Relative to what? A Tesla Dual Motor in Ludicrous mode? A Bentley Conti GT perhaps? Or a Ruf GTR? As I’ve pointed out before, “the relatively slow 276bhp Superb 4x4” is faster to 60 than a 289 AC Cobra and it is a £38k mass produced 5 door car. It’s performance which could only been achieved from a super car 20 years ago and just dreamt about for a “normal” vehicle which a salesman, bank worker or teacher could buy; it’s plenty fast enough for me.

I was dreading doing the brake Flexi hoses as I was sure the hard brake line fixing would be seized and snap. I used plenty of penetrating oil, wire bushed what I could and took my time. Do not even attempt this job if you don't have correct sized flared open end spanners and suitable sockets. It will end in disaster. Before pics (I had changed the bleed nipple first)

The original headlights on the car were knackered. Broken adjusters, burnt bulb holders, cut wires and missing covers from the rear. I found a lovely replacement set and fitted them. This pic shows one original next to the replacement

My 2 year old DSG Scala had it’s second 18k service and they said the brakes were all good for many more miles. I have now done over 21k and they look just fine with minimal signs of wear. My last 3 Fabia’s all DSG with 30k+ miles we’re all sold on without ever having to change brake parts.

I phoned the dealer today and my Skoda is on target for early June. It is scheduled for build week 17, (week beginning 25th April) forward from week 18. Ordered 2nd March. Incidentally it used to be Skoda Live Chat for updates, but they steer us to the dealer now.

Skoda just replied me that: 1. they didn’t yet fix the problem („server site”) 2. they will extend my license by 6 months 3. they don’t have a potential fix date 🤡

I hit a flooded corner on a country lane at around 30mph and the front wheels became rudders luckily the undertray aquaplaned the car enough to help me across the water until the front wheels gripped. I will always fit a tray.

They aren't to bad to fit, just have to pop the one wire into the BCM connector and then the other to a suitable earthing point, the fiddly bit is unplugging the connector from the control module. It took me around an hour to do it, with most of that being spent upside down in the footwell trying to put the pin in the BCM connector. The menu is just some simple coding in VCDS, the kit came with instructions but they are also available on the forum.

I upgraded to the Red version after repeated issued with open-door ones... well worth it. Quality and fitment are miles apart.

Looking very nice. These are on my 'to do' list, once I stop spending my money on racing bits...

For a 1.4 TSI i would avoid a K&N if that is a treated filter than needs / cleaning & re-oiling to get any value / longer life out of them for the silly price. Actually i avoid K&N other than where a filter is exposed to water and dust etc on the likes of offroaders with Cone Filters. There are plenty Performance Filters about, and many are no better with a 1,390 cc TSI with a remap than a good clean standard filter.

To my memory standard the Monte and vRS were 10 mm lower as per brochures and the dealer fit Eibach were shown as 15mm lower than STANDARD models. At the debates back over 10 years ago I said measure to the roof height as Skoda numbers are fiction. Greenline ground clearance was the tyre circumference difference and under panels. A vRS cover under the engine gave even less clearance than Greenline plastic.

Montes have "Sports" shocks and springs iirc. About 15mm lower than standard. Shouldn't make any difference to fitting springs however all else being equal. Heres the boot sticker off my monte if its any addition.

ETA: see the Driver's Handbook, usually nothing really to do, just check your electric windows are up before disconnecting to save some little effort.

I would seek advice of a reputable tuner who specialise in VAG, they are more likely to know what works based on what data they see live tuning cars on a dyno. The 'Flash Map' type people who come to your house obviously cover all makes and models, their actual knowledge of a specific engine type will be limited. The general idea is that 'stage 1' software is compatible with the cars original hardware and no changes are needed. Fitting an induction kit will give you more noise and marginal response/power if that is what you are after. You could fit the kit at home with minimal tools, they are quite simplistic, pretty sure its a couple of jubilee clips to remove the hoses and pull the OE box off its mounts. Here are two kits that are listed on Awesome GTI, they both claim Max power gains of 5.6 - 9.3hp... but it doesn't state what that is in comparison to, you would have to presume a stock car with a clean air filter. https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/seat/leon-mk3-5f/induction-kits/mst-induction-kit-with-intake-hose-1-2-and-1-4-tsi-ea211/ Dyno result: 9.3hp @5169rpm and 16.9 nm@ 2193rpm https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/volkswagen/golf-mk7/induction-kits/mst-induction-kit-1-4-tsi-ea211/ Max gains +5.6hp@3800rpm +10.6nm@3800rpm If you were looking for a simple option just to help the car breath a bit better, look at a panel filter, you can swap it at home within minutes and it saves a lot of hassle. https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/pipercross/pipercross-panel-filter-1-4tsi-act-engine/

I have just had an induction kit fitted to my 230 TSi. After much research, I decided upon the Racing Line R600. At the same time, I chose to replace the Turbo 90 Inlet Elbow, Turbo Muffler Delete, Turbo Inlet Hose and Coolant underhose. The car sounds better and is much more responsive. Next step is to improve the handling and then a Remap. https://www.racingline.com/air-intake-r600-r600evo I would have thought that your Remap would be built around your current setup, so it possibly would have been better to change the hardware before the software. I went to an official authorised Racing Line dealer that I found through their website. The service I received was nothing short of exceptional, great conversation, extremely knowledgeable and best of all, free fitting.

The replacement MCU only has a warranty as long as this Extended Warranty runs so to have 2 years parts and labour warranty on the MCU you need to pay some money towards in, even a couple of quid. Since this is not really possible best you get an extended warranty, All in or any that covers the DSG / MCU. They can not say 'there is a known issue' so Warranty not valid, as they are fixing the car and there is no 'known issue' after repaired.

As long as genuine Skoda parts are used, the warranty should be honoured. Experiences vary, however.

Hi, I’ve got. 2-yr old Scala and the whole ‘Infotainment’ system drives me nuts. Ok I’ve been driving a long while but cars are just too techy now: no wonder the battery runs down all the time with repeated stupid messages it keeps pinging at me! Lights that stay on fur she’s when you park etc etc. plus I’m supposed to be concentrating on the road, not stupid messages that come up, filling the screen in print too small to read! Bring back simple cars! I started on a Morris Minor: if the battery was flat, you got the crank handle, a few turns and it burst into life!

Ok, so I'm going to be completely blunt with you, if your stop/start system barely ever kicks in or you drive everywhere with it switched off then you can use a normal cheap battery but the cars fault warning system might not like it and I can't promise it won't. I don't understand why you keep charging the battery when you aren't using it, AGM batteries are designed to sit for months with little loss of charge, you must stop doing that because you might have damaged the battery prematurely. In your situation I wouldn't even bother replacing the battery until you have actual evidence that it's failing, particularly now the cold weather is behind us.

After a while guys from shop called me to try to install camera once again.. they've got instructions from supplier that car need to go to deep sleep and after it wakes up with camera connected it will activate everything correctly.. so they install it and it works.. camera view is really wide (you can see bumper and everything behind you)... even the lines on camera bends when I'm steering... 😀 🙃

Hi Guys, All sorted today.....using my Samsung Galaxy A51 work phone. Plugged into and Android Auto came straight up. Was using the maps and calls everything. So the issue is definitely my Huawei although even though I do know about the Google malarky with Huawei, the services are all supposed to be fully functional on mine. It was only to be new model phones brought out after that decision was made. Ohhh America worried about spying on people..the ****ing irony! I tweaked every setting on my Huawei from Developer mode usb options to the AA app but nothing would activate it so there has to be something stopping it. Anyway, not ideal but I can bring the work phone when required until I get a new personal phone. I only wanted this for long journeys anyway. The Huawei does connect by Bluetooth where I can play my few tunes ...most important! I must say this Skoda site is absolutely fantastic and you guys have been bloody great in helping thanks! I've found out so much stuff here about different things with the car.

I mean I doubt it. Because chips. But who knows the full situation. The factory in Ukraine started to remake the harnesses too this week. But the problem is all the correspondence they send is completely generic. My wife has a seat arona new build order in and we were told by the dealer that the arona is built in Spain and not affected at all by Ukraine. But still we got the letter saying it was. Communication and customer management needs to be better.

I bought a kit from Rocket Wires (mostly because I don't like to wait), they are more expensive than those from eBay/Aliexpress but I can't fault the quality. You can choose between Halogen and Red/White LED options, also front/rear kits. I have put some images below (excuse the state of the car ).

Panel factory is up and running! https://www.linkedin.com/feed/update/urn:li:activity:6911657583367843840/

Took the Octavia to Snetterton for a track day. Had a great time and considering it's only the second time I've taken it on a track, I was really quite pleased with how it performed. I've recently removed the lowering springs, as I wasn't really liking the ride they gave out on the road, and put the standard springs back on. I've still got the Koni shocks on it and that combinations provides a much more comfortable and stable ride. Out on track it was so balanced and predictable and it never once tried to step out of line. Along with sticky track rubber, it was pretty great to drive. I had a slight issue early on as it was getting a bit warm and when the engine temperature crept up to the next line past 90 on the gauge, it would limit the boost until the temp dropped down again. Easy fix was to take the spot lights and front grille off to help get a bit more air flowing through the rad. It helped substantially and made the situation a bit easier to manage. As long as I kept smooth and tidy, it wasn't really too much of a problem for the rest of the day. Early on, despite being quite experienced at Snetterton, I've always been in a much lower powered car before so I had to re-learn the circuit taking into account that I was arriving at corners about 30mph quicker than I've been used to. Soon got the hang of it though and by the afternoon I was lapping consistently quick and tidily. Early Video: Later video: Thouroughly enjoyed the day and apart from the small temperature issue early on, the car didn't need anything than fuel all day. I also have it on very good authority that it spits flames when giving it the beans I did manage to crack the brake discs by the end of the day though, good job there's some spares in the garage. It's due an MOT next month but before that happens it's also due a service including cam belt and water pump. It obviously needs some brake discs and it'll probably benefit from a brake fluid change too. Tempted to put a fresh raditor on it too as the original is now 18 years old and is starting to show up a bit of inefficiency. So, plenty on the list to be getting on with.

Got another battery tray as the gti one doesn’t fit due to the gearbox mount being different and the size of the stop start battery I.e being bigger meant it didn’t fit my original one. So that’s all on now Also a powerflex dogbone insert arrived as the gti dogbone mount is a different design to old one, lucky there cheap enough. so just waiting for my driveshaft to turn up now, was told 1-3 days last Friday so hopefully any time now, then gearbox oil in and take her for a spin

Oh and best but now is that I can clean the engine bay properly as this box doesn’t leak like the old one 😁 you can see how gopping it is inside the bell housing from the large inner seal that has gone.

Thanks guys, we got the box in yesterday, really excited, there is no prop shaft bearing support mounting point on a none 4wd shell so I’m just trying to get a cut out off a donor to weld up as we speak, it drove on the 4wd DSG box so I’m well happy 😃 it’s so close now, get the prop support sorted and then the heat shields and the prop installed, custom cat back exhaust and the wiring and it’ll be fighting fit, there is a bit of tidying up to do on the rear too as it was rushed but not a lot and it will look OEM underneath which is just what I wanted 😁 as always, I’m rubbish with photos, so here is one of half a stripped engine bay ready for the box to come out 🤣

activate additional ambient light colours open the bonnet 09 central electrics - adaptations - interior light hmi config first and second value should be 7fffffff coding and ignition of, ignition on turn multimedia on , find ambient lights and shoul be activated additional 20 colours