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I wish CH4 would drop that idiot presenter Jones, he's embarrassing to listen to when he attempts to interview anyone, it was such a pleasure to have Lee McKenzie last time out in Saudi as lead presenter, she is a professional interviewer who knows the right questions to ask

Not the best shot of the birds - only had my phone, with it's limited zoom to hand

Regardless of who replaced Mr Jones, or in fact if he was just dropped I don't think there would be many complaints. Some of the "jokes" on this week were cringe worthy, not funny and I'm left debating if he is deliberately trying to play the fool (who isn't funny) or is just the village idiot.

Having experimented with 16's, 17's, 18's and 19's on three previous Mk1 VW Tiguans, I concluded that 17's were the best ride / handling / steering compromise. The 17's were dealer supplied Audi Q3 alloys and they now live on the Karoq in the winter, fitted with Dunlop D5 Winter Sport.

I was 2c out in my original comment but that was just going off a failing memory, the pic below is from ElsaWin a copy of the stealers workshop manuals

I dont even doubt this for a second. The windscreen companies make pennies on the job so they employ the cheapest idiots to do the work and then force them to rush the job. For mine they took 4 hours to fit a screen that should of taken max an hour. They then tried to cover the damage up with windscreen adhesive. Turns out they broke the a pillar trims, scuttle trims, took paint off both a pillars and the roof edge and also damaged the bonnet. Not to mention the windscreen being completely wonky. My advise to the OP, go over the windscreen area with a fine tooth comb, there will be more issues than youve mentioned. Make sure they put it all right. And inform your insurer as they are the ones paying the bill and wont pay it if you arent 100%

I would have thought that if Autoglass are at fault it is there problem to fix. You shouldn't need to worry about a wiring diagram. If they can't fix it say to them they need to send it to the main dealer to be fixed.

Pretty bad this didn't make it into the CCS chargers though if it didn't. Even if it was something that only worked for tethered chargers due to a missing wire to allow charger controll on your own cables. I don't mind having a couple of rapids in a car park, as long as they are very very expensive after a suitably short time period. The better solution would be to have a couple of fast bays which give 20 minutes of electric @50-100kW and if you're gone within that 20-30 minute window, then you can fill it up for "free" in the parking bay on a 7Kw.

Be nice if the system could give them a nudge on the app to allow unplug. If there is CCTV over a charger, so any damage could be caught, then I'd say it would be quite reasonable for a tethered charger to unlock the charge port once the car has hit 80%. Again it comes back to there being a need for idle/overstay charges. Idle is a bit harsh as you don't actually know how long a car will take, but frankly after the car is charged 15-30 minutes is kind of the limit. This is one part of electric car ownership I am not looking forward to.

I'm forgetting the small DIY bits I've been doing! I've removed the parcel shelf, boot carpet liner thing, the tools and spare wheel and also the under bonnet lining thing. This has saved about 18kg in weight and has improved intake sound quite a bit. Then I've also fitted a pedalbox - I know it's a very marmite mod but I had one in the Fabia and loved it and now in the Scirocco once again it didn't disappoint. It gives more intake sound because of the throttle reacting in a more linear fashion when on the pedal and also allows for a bit more fun around corners - the rear seems to be a bit more lively on lift off, potentially down to the fact the throttle closes more abruptly? I don't know, but I know it feels awesome! Next DIY bit coming very soon will be removing the rear seats and fitting a Stern Performance 'clubsport pack' (read: rear seat delete kit) I'm very excited for this next stage and I'm extremely happy with how the Scirocco is behaving now - reminds me of my Fabia so much which means it's hilarious to drive 😁😁😁

No I meant the Fabia but forgot about there not being separate circuits. However, it does control cold running which can be faulty without anything showing on the 'customer reassurance gauge' 😁

Well, just to round this off sepulchrave was correct in his diagnosis, rack seals shot. Rapidly became apparent that it was peeing PAS juice. Recon rack purchased last week for £150 (outright) and fitting was pleasantly straightforward. Steering feel at low speeds greatly improved! Happy days

I’ve never agreed with a post more! It seems though that Lee McKenzie is in demand for other sports and tv channels as well, so possibly doesn’t want to (or can’t) commit to 23 weeks all over the globe.

Finally an update, now showing a build week for the beginning of May.

That's incorrect. Temp gauges on modern cars are stabilised to read 'normal' over a wide temp range. The dash gauge reading means nothing. Also, the CTS doesn't only control the temp gauge but has a separate circuit for the ECU. The gauge can still function but the ECU cold-start fuelling side of the sensor can be toast.

Hi Guys, After much deliberation we've decided to take to plunge and get ourselves a new campervan/mobile home. We previously had an old Fiat based LMC camper from the 1980's that was gidted to us by family. We really enjoyed our trips away but missed some creature comforts with it being a little old. The ancient 2.5 diesel with only 70ps got a little tiresome lugging around over 3000kg! After that we got a caravan but sold this when we moved to Germany. We've since sold our house in the UK and made a tidy profit from it and since we're in no rush to buy something here (still on the cards) we've taken the plunge and ordered a brand new campervan. It's a Miller branded camper based on a Citroen Jumper 2.2 Euro 6 with 165ps and 6 speed manual gearbox. See if I can figure out the whole AdBlue situation. Thankfully you can fill up at most petrol stations here. They have AdBlue pumps for normal cars/vans and not just lorries. We went for the upgraded power (165 vs 120/140) as we're more than likely to be mostly up to or at the 3,500kg limit. We did want an automatic but that would have meant takinfg the Fiat Ducato for €3,500 plus the 9 speed ZF for €3,000! So we just stuck with manual. We've also specced it up a bit from the base spec: - DAB / Navigation with reversing camera - 4m awning - Gas oven - fly screens - Turbo-Vent (powerful fan in skylight to aid with cooling - the A/C was an 1,900€ option and added over 50kg) - 100w Solar - Blinds for the windscreen/side windows and a few other bits and bobs. Got a big shopping list to kit it out (plates and kitchen stuff etc) and also want to fit a couple of TVs (didn't fancy paying 900€ for 2x tiny 18" TVs from them). Delivery expected around August. Super excited!

Well the day came and passed , no contact from the dealer. So as i said to VWFS i would stay with the car till the fix and if that didn't happen then i would reject. Car is now officially rejected , i can keep hold of it till my new car comes ( Jan 2026 lol) So off to see what is out there

Thanks for your quick reply. I just realize that’s the engine light not oil. So if I understand you correctly that light is supposed to be on at that stage and the fact it disappears after the engine starts running is normal.

No, I haven’t checked it since having it. Clearly haven’t read a manual either 😳

Don't McD's claim their delivery fleet is run on the used oil ? so I wouldn't count on them for any cheap/free oil

Sorry, couldn’t find it. Didn’t know it was meant to flexible enough to bend. Cheers 👍👍👍

@nta16 I also saw the evidence when I converted a petrol speedo to diesel for my old mk1 Octy to do this I had the download the eeprom data and put the diesel tacho figures into the petrol eeprom and I plotted the input/ouput of the other gauges using a XLS file converter and you could see the plateau on the temperature input to output so I did a bit of reverse plotting to have the plateau removed

I should probably clarify the setup I envisage: TL;DR I've done a fair amount of planning and research for the fuel system, I'm just trying to work out if there's enough space to fit another fuel tank in a way that looks "OEM". • Car starts on diesel (probably premium diesel to help clean the injectors). • Once engine is up to temperature, the fuel supply switches to a separate tank filled with veg oil - probably waste veg oil (WVO) pre-filtered to <5micron, possibly thinned using 3% kerosene-free (for tax purposes) white spirit. • I'd keep all relevant paperwork as proof of what has been produced (ie. I'd try to stay below the 2,500l/yr limit for fuel duty). • The veg oil passes through a heat exchanger to lower the viscosity before hitting the injectors. • Before engine is shut off, fuel system is purged to return veg oil (and a small amount of diesel) into into the veg oil tank. I've given some thought to electronics for automatically switching to veg tank once temp is reached and fuel level is enough, switching back to diesel is veg level is low, purging fuel lines with ignition off etc. This could all easily be done manually, but automatic would be pretty cool. I would also like to change some parts like intake, injectors, and head bolts to the PD150 versions (probably turbo, exhaust and intercooler if budget permits) and remap to ≈170bhp on diesel, which might give ≈160bhp on veg oil. Nothing wild - just enough. From my memory owning a Fabia, there wouldn't be space for a second tank. From my memory owning an Octavia1 (1.9 TDI L&K 😏) there would be space under the boot floor for a tank. Like I said, I understand the 6 speed is meant to be more durable than the 5 speed, so it seems my choices are Octavia 4x4 (which would make a cool vRS replica) or Fabia vRS... 5 speed would probably be okay, but it seems then even then I don't gain the under-floor boot space of the Octavia1 😔

You are in for a roller coaster.... Dont let them repair it. You want it to go to a garage and the garage will carry out a suitable repair. If they do it, they will bodge it. Personally I would have a main dealer do it using their documented and approved repair techniques. I had a windscreen company cause over £5000 by the end of its worth of damage to my Superb. The cables run across both pillars and down to the footwells, they are part of the complete interior wiring loom so cant be purchased seperately so need repairing properly. Also, dont let them try and say its not their fault the cables shouldnt of been there, it is their fault and make sure you fight it.

I like it when the SatNav says "turn half right" what sort of manoeuvre instruction is that, rally driving I think!

This happened to me once…until I realised that I needed to turn the thing on. The issue was I hadn’t turned it off previously so was puzzled.

Scrubs up alright

AUTODOC AG Josef-Orlopp-Straße 55 10365 Berlin Germany As for the .gr in the end is a clone for Greek market, the items come from abroad. I send an email to NGK to suggest me their local distributor since it's not easy to find this sensor in e-store parts here https://www.ngkntk.com/gr/anazitisi-proionton/productfinder/category/PKW-LAMBDASONDEN/product/12395/?cHash=ef600894ef963e7765da248baa7881f9

I've had it as well a few times. In particular at one junction on the A34 where the road curves round to the left on the junction and the Sat Nav is set to shortest distance

Hers first look at Enyaq Coupe RS with illuminated grill. 😍

CHADEMO does this (on completion of rapid charging) because the locking mechanism is controlled by the charger. I've been able to start my charge a handful of times this way. It was mostly at Ikea in early days when people plug in and dispensary inside the store for over an hour. There were every reason to plug in and charge to get £6 off but typical dwell time at Ikea is incompatible with concept of rapid charging. Totally agree with idle/overstay fees. People need to treat rapid chargers like petrol station pumps, DO NOT go far from the car, it's not a parking spot. But to be fair, rapids chargers also shouldn't be installed in hour-long car parks....... Need forecourt-styled setup like at Gridserve Braintree. Only car park that is suitable for rapid chargers is at services.

Part number LC-9586 - SKODA, VOLKSWAGEN - 6U0 906 265 E, 6U0906265E - NGK 4 wire 516mm - Connector type 36 NGK Direct Fit £76.99 - Bosch Universal Part Number UN15 £49.99 - https://secure.lambdapower.co.uk/partsearch/az2.asp?IDlist=LC-9586

There's presumably one wire going to each plug on the loom you've bought, so connect two of them (any two) to each of the existing connections?

Those are the correct TRW front and rear brake pads. The front 312mm brakes are a TRW system, whereas the rear 300mm brakes are an ATE system. You might find that the original rear pads are branded ATE. The rear brake pads don't have a wear sensor. Front brake pads with wear indicator TRW GDB1956 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/7489103?search=TRW Brake pad set (GDB1956) Rear brake pads without wear indicator TRW GDB1957 https://www.autodoc.co.uk/trw/7489104?search=TRW Brake pad set (GDB1957)

I think SurreyJohn has covered most of it. To answer your earlier question, yes 3.1 Bar is 45 PSI: https://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm I would agree with John, running them harder is probably going to be a false economy because they're likely to wear out the centre of the tyre before they wear the rest of the tread area, so you'll be throwing them away earlier, and they ain't cheap! Is yours a 4x4 version? If so, swapping the tyres round to even out the wear is even more important. We made (a pretty painful!) investment in a set of Winter tyres and I bought another set of second hand rims over a period of time on eBay, so we can swap them from one season to the other. I can certainly vouch for the improvement in cold weather grip - not just snow and ice, but even just in the wet as the temperature drops below about 3 or4 degree, I can feel an improvement in stopping and cornering ability. Supposedly, they start showing an improvement below about 7 degrees, but I can't say I've noticed it at those temperatures. We'll swap back to the "summer" ones at the end of this month. Beware, there's a lot of half-truth and misinformation about "winter" tyres. Some manufacturers sell "mud-and-snow" tyres, which are NOT the same thing! A true winter tyre will have a three-peaked mountain symbol with a snowflake in it: if they don't have that, they don't meet the legal requirements to be a winter tyre - regardless of what's written on the sidewall! Some all-season tyres can just about meet the winter tyre requirements, so they qualify for the symbol, others can't, so it's worth checking, and don't be fobbed off with any spiel about "mud & snow"! (That really only refers to the tread pattern). Lastly, don't be worried about tyres "bursting" if you run them at a higher pressure (obviously, within the limit marked on the sidewall)! under-inflated tyres are at greater risk of that. It's really only uneven wear that will be a problem.

It's for my wife's Citigo. My Yeti's is built in so to speak.

To add to this, the intake is usually bigger than it needs to be anyway, so it's not going to be the limiting factor on stock or even moderately tuned engines. Plus the MAF and turbo will regulate the amount of air getting into the engine anyway so unless you remap, a bigger intake may not yield any improvement anyway.

When my son had his Karoq, he used my old Yeti 16” winter wheels instead of his standard 19” wheels during the winter months.

If u have the VIN number, then u can jump on Erwin (Skoda) online to see ur car's build details, including exactly wat DSG box u have.

Would seem 12 months is definitely optimistic. Super comments and opinions - thanks everyone. I was also thinking that it might be worth waiting for next model of Superb, but that’ll no doubt have teething issues, plus a massive wait as it’s not even been released yet, and would have a bump in list price with slimmer discounts. Superb 190 SEL it is then, pound for pound seems much better value with deposit contributions than Octavia.

How much??? drop me a message, I should be able to sort you something much cheaper if you’re near london If it’s the radio control unit in the glovebox it shouldn’t be anywhere near that! if it’s the connectivity module behind the display it should not be anywhere near that also!

Worth sharing the scan with the experts here even if there are no battery related codes - there could be other issues that are having a bad effect.

It'll be interesting to see what they do about my email. I've told them I'm not leaving it in again until there is a proper update from Skoda. There's no point in them uploading the same software over and over again hoping something will magically change lol

Yes rejected but not picked a car yet , VWFS said tell us 2 to 3 weeks prior to new car delivery , they will then refund deposit and pick up the car. I will keep paying for the Octy till the new one arrives. I have had her for 15 months on a 4 year Personal lease. VWFS gave me £1k goodwill in December to stay and wait for the fix , that they said was 31at March. I waited till 1st April , contacted the dealer ,, who said no fix available. So then wrote to VWFS , said i have had enough ( current tech guy at dealer says i have 85 current faults ). VWFS agreed to rejection and apologised. The car is a D unit head with 1803 software and i believe due to the Ukraine war , that fix is now kicked into the long grass. Don't be a BETA tester paying full price for their poorly coded software. I always think , if i picked up a TV from Curry's and it had one fault even minor , it would be back in the shop same day. Why put up with a £35k disaster of a product at your own expense. I loved my VRS , it was the 2nd one i have had and im so annoyed it came to this and to the fact i wont be back in Skodas showrooms. Time for ELECTRIC!!

Fitted the rear arch liners off the gti today. started with a filthy arch Ample spraying with degreaser and a jet wash got them looking like this. then lined up the liner to drill the holes as mine didn’t have them being an early one. Was going to fit the inserts but found the screws hold in really strong on there own. Treated the drilled holes with hammerite and then waxoil over the lot. Only had some small spots where filler neck pipe bolts to body, around the neck was really good. I gave it a good going over with hammerite then some waxoil on that too. Then all fitted back on

Finally got my last two warning lights out today, due to a crash detected fault in steering column control unit I originally had a red power steering light and power steering wasn’t working. I managed to get steering working by resetting the control unit to factory settings although still had yellow steering light and traction control light on due to basic settings not being carried out. No matter what I tried I couldn’t get basic settings to adapt. Booked in with a local independent with access to Odis which is a vw guided way of diagnosing faults and straight access to the factory. Luckily this sorted the light out and managed to reset the steering, and all sorted in less than an hour . IMG_1650.MOV

If it's as described, my biggest issue is the contact number being a mobile.

Thanks for estimated cost, which I cannot agree with. All the family car diesels that I've had over the last 10 years have all done in excess of 60mpg making your comparison somewhat biased towards EV. In fact, even my petrol Superb PHEV, easily does over 45 mpg, on a run, which is not great, but is a factor in my current usage. I can do most trips (by number not distance) using all electric which is great, with charging at home. In a year I am ding about 6000 miles on petrol and 2000 miles all electric. Not very far really to justify a diesel but they have better drivability for me, plus the economy. My biggest issue is on long trips, of which I do about 20 a year, all of which can be over 450 miles over a few days, or up to 1000 miles during a 2 week UK holiday, which we now have to do instead of going abroad . My experience of finding a charge point that is usable has been very poor at anywhere other than motorways where you have to queue, potentially for hours, and where there is no queuing system to make it work fairly, which is pretty silly, plus there is no way to put my car whilst waiting. The decision NOT to go all electric is based on wanting to use the latest super fast chargers to get the benefit of not having top stop for 2 hours just to get enough charge to get home, or having to pay over 69p per kwh at current rates on motorways and out of the way sites, where there is no competition. The energy crisis has already hit petrol but the biggest rise will come very soon for electricity both at home and on commercial public chargers, therefore your current rates on not realistic. I will not join any subscription schemes because they are not good value for my limited use. Pay as you go rates will get ever more expensive in an attempt to encourage subscription customers. Until the government "gets a grip", instead of "messing about" with the EV charging system the UK will be a very bad place to be, except for Tesla drivers, who have the least reliable cars , and are overpriced, but if you gave me one I would have it and put up with the problems, maybe !!! I'll reconsider the whole EV thing in maybe 3 year time, but for now its a big NO for me.

That's how my custom box looks on the NX RS...

As a general observation, relays do click when they operate.