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Hi! Been lurking a little while but not posted. Having had a Superb estate for four years from new, I just got myself a new iV PHEV Superb Estate, and I've never before bought the same car twice. If anyone is unsure about this car I can say for my family it's really impressed us. We just completed a trip to Austria and back and I was a little nervous about mpg, hoping for high thirties realistically, (fully loaded boot, four adults onboard plus a massive roofbox filled with four sets of boots and skis and other holiday essentials!). I was really impressed with how the car manages it's power sources, even after the battery range has been depleted the energy recovery and smooth switching through the gearbox is masterful engineering. Driving at around 140km/hour for about half the journey on autobahns, and between 100 and 130 in France, Belgium, Holland and Austria, the car returned 41.2 mpg. I couldn't believe how good this is, as previously I owned a dreary Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV with a dumb 2 litre normally aspirated petrol engine - on the same trip at similar speeds it returned 24mpg. It never went abroad again after that! I'm happy to say this Skoda is fit for long trips in comfort and relative economy as well as serving my daily commute on nearly all battery. If in doubt, don't worry, this is a great car!

I thought I'd just offer up an update to all this... It's been in to the garage today for an inspection and they've come up with a CV boot that's spilt and allowed dirt and debris in and the joint is clicking slightly on full lock on nearside and two front shocks need replacing. They also advised me to hang on to the car as there's not a great deal wrong with it so that will be my final decision at least for the time being. Thanks again everybody 😁

Pins 5 and 6 of the switch unit get connected to 0V/earth (pin 11) via the following resistances depending on each switch position: 1. Press switch down to the first detent - 150 Ohms to earth 2. Press switch fully down - short/0 Ohms to earth 3. Pull switch up to first detent - 1.8k Ohms to earth 4. Pull switch up fully - 530 Ohms to earth. These were measured on a new aftermarket switch unit, if I remember right, so may not be precisely those of a genuine switch, but I'd expect reasonable agreement. Pin numbering (just visible in your photo) includes the non-fitted pins.

Lots of folk will chime in with "they're stretch bolts, you can tell because they quote torque plus angle" etc. but I think that's almost entirely not the real reasoning. In reality, it's about the loss of accuracy when tightening used, often corroded fasteners. Even with the superior accuracy of torque plus angle, the initial torque stage is heavily dominated by friction in terms of how much of the applied torque is converted to tension in the bolt. So corroded fasteners will get to this initial torque earlier than they should, meaning the final angle tigthening will not result in the designed pre-tension. Bolts that come loose are potentially dangerous; Skoda won't risk that originating in their workshops, so specify replacement anywhere where a dangerous outcome could occur if it happened.

15's will work but albeit they will look like your running on buttons. The problem with the MK2 is that its not just the heavy standard giggaro alloys wheels that are the issue but every part of the suspension components are **** and offer a harsh ride. What tyre's are you running? I found running lighter wheels and softer pilot sport 4's felt a good bit better than the previous kumho's I ran.

Welcome to the forum. Someone might know exactly what 15" alloys will not cause an issue. I would go for 16" ones maybe, as fitted to a Fabia Reaction or similar. There is a good search function on the forum and over the 12 years most subjects on Mk2 vRS have been covered. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/339812-fitted-smaller-wheels-tyres-on-mk-ii-vrs Do you really want to go to 195 tyres? I hope they will be decent ones on a 180PS car with a DQ200 DSG. & that will need to be ones of the correct speed / load rating. @Carlstonwill love you and tell you how good narrower tyres are and give you all the scores on the doors. As you say the Spare Wheel is a steel 15" and fits. Plenty run 16" as winter or all year around tyres. *Briskoda For Sales have 16" Wheels / Tyres of the correct fitment for sale occasionally that would be fine.* With the 17" Gigaro fitted 215/40 R 17 or 205/45 R 17 are a good choice if you want to keep the OEM wheels. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/460562-what-size-tyres-fit-a-mk2-fabia-vrs

They start from £99 with the RAC & £142 from the AA. Skoda owners / keepers that had Warranty Work were being invited in to dealerships so that An Audit could be carried out on the vehicles. Get the Dealer Principal of the Supplying Dealer to deal with the Incompetence of their staff and the car can have a proper inspection and alignment check and they can purchase tyres to be fitted at a tyre fitter.

Inner tyre wear is usually due to negative camber so perhaps it would be a good idea to get the alignment checked. The transport blocks would just cause the bump stops to bottom out quicker but I'm sure you would of noticed because it would be a banging sound before the springs fully compress.

Call from the dealer today: car is due there next Wednesday and collect Friday (ordered 10/11/21). Fingers crossed.

So... first proper journey in the vRS complete - 160odd miles up the M5+M6, including through all the ****** roadworks, in the pouring rain, and it returned a very respectable 39.5mpg. I'll take that 😁. Sure as hell beats the very low 20s I'm averaging with my normal 1-2 mile kids' taxi trips.

This is what you need... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142865892529

Edition 2.0 litre engines ( diesel or petrol ) were fitted with 225/45/19 92W whilst 1.5's were fitted with 225/40/19 93W. 225/45/19 gives you wider choice of all weather tyres.

Why not just fit the new switch you have and see if it cures the problem? If that doesn't work it will be either broken wires inside the door bellows or the window motor.

Hi and congrats! If no SH I would go with a brake fluid service too and you should swap the cabin filter too. Enjoy the ride tomorrow!😎

Thanks 👍👍I just got chatting to a neighbour and he was saying he thinking of selling. I didn’t want to pass it up

Nah, I am not placing another factory order. If I cancelled, I would buy whatever I manage to find in stock. Thing is, I need a bigger car by year's end.

Not good for you but it does indicate that the 280 will still be in production 2023............

Thanks. I decided to get a bottle of VW 508 00/509 00 0w20 FS IV for the Mk4 TSI; amazingly thin, which is, I guess, part of the low friction, low emission initiatives. I won't be wasting the older bottle as it'll go fine in the other car.

Don't worry - we don't bite. A few members had already spotted what had happened and let the Staff know. There is now only this thread for you to focus on. 👍

I like to change them where possible, if I have to re-use old fittings I tend to give them a good clean but either way I have never had an issue. I recently changed my front shocks & mounts and all the bolts came supplied with the exception of 19, that was supplied with the droplink... TPS quoted me around £15 for the fastners so it isn't bank breaking if you do need them.

i think this one might be worth swerving tbh. Shame.

So that's a no then!

Lowering a car causes negative camber where the wheels point inwards at the top & push out at the bottom & causes inner tyre to wear evenly. In your case it could be that the front springs have sagged which is normal for them to settle & most cars come with slight negative camber to help with the handling The toe is adjusted to compensate the negative camber hence the reason I advise you get alignment checked. I'm actually in a similar situation, I purchased my car with only 16k miles & within the first 6 months & only 20k miles my car has noisy rear shocks & oil leaking out the front shocks & the dealer doesn't want to know because Skoda have said "its perfectly normal to have oil leaking from the shocks" the bill to have "genuine" parts fitted is £912.84 but I have decided to do the job myself because I will know exactly what parts are fitted to my car & not have to rely on specialists that charge ridiculous prices. I have purchased a set of Bilstein B4 shocks & Eibach pro kit lowering springs with a total cost of £383.69 & when fitted I will be getting the wheel alignment checked.

I bet he borrows a Kia Rio for his VED calculation….

New Superb owner here, 2016 SE L Executive 190. Received on Tuesday night, no SH (96k on the clock) so in the garage all day yesterday (Volksmasters, Heywood) having full service, cambelt/waterpump and DSG gearbox service. Anything else I "need" to have done to avoid potentially costly repairs? Mechanic said it seemed like a sound car, no issues he could find other than slightly uneven tyre wear. Updated the satnav DB from 2016 to 2022 this morning, and heading up to Edinburgh for the weekend tomorrow so it will get a proper run! Give is a wave if you see us 😄

Hi all, Been a Skoda owner since 2006 when bought a 2003 Octavia 1.8T 4x4 that was an ex-private ambulance and had been re-mapped to 225bhp. Had a few other makes in between but back with a 2016 Superb SE L Executive which I bought on Tuesday, and a heap of a 2007 Octavia L&K which we've been running since October. See you around. Gerrard

You can reset the steering assist to reduce it when you fit these narrower tyres and the steering feels very light. What i suggest is that the sister twincharger cars come with 215/40 R 17 tyres and just the Fabia got 205/40 R 17's. You might notice unless you have 195's with good grip on less than perfect surfaces that there is more flashing of the TC light, but only if giving it a bit of a boot. They might be a bit better where aquaplaning could be a risk. Here if you think you might want to change the setting of steering assist to suit the tyres fitted. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/236545-power-steering-adjustment http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/294303-vcds-steering-assist-polo-gti-setting http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/318138-vcds-steering-settings http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/289717-xds-brake-and-steering-assist

So another journo deliberately not finding out how to operate an electric car before making a report on it? I didn't watch as I forgot about it.

One thing that is very clear is that the hotel staff, in general, are not interested in either promoting the charge points in their adverts, or do not protect them from mis-use, or cannot be bothered to effectively manage them, by which I mean organising sort sort of queue system to stop one user hogging the site longer than needed. Another issue is that on cost - apart from the chargers that have contactless payment you have no idea how much it is going to cost, and ZAP map is not good enough to keep this info up to date.

There are different setups apparently. According to this site. That might be the one you need. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/genuine-vw-2-wire-glow-plug-wiring-loom-for-vw-1-9-2-0-8v-tdi-pd-engines-038-971-782-b.html

They still do them, I think it is something like £140 for a basic inspection. EDIT: Roottoot beat to the post

The litre from 2012 should be VW 504 00 / 507 00, 5w 30 FS III. That is fine for a bit of a top up of a TSI if it came from the factory with VW 508 00 / 509 00 so 0w 20 FS IV. That is if the car was due for an oil and filter change in the near future, otherwise best not mix specs.

You have 2 problems, firstly you don’t know how much of the PDI was missed, and secondly you have worn tyres which may or may not be due to the transport blocks. With the PDI, write to the dealer principle at supplying dealer (email and recorded delivery) asking for copy of PDI worksheet, either it won’t have that part of the work carried out (boxes not ticked), or it will have been falsified and show work was done. If a main dealer is falsifying PDI paperwork ask them how they would like to compensate you, or would they prefer an official complaint to Skoda UK and if they are MOT registered to DVSA for falsifying work done paperwork. Tell them if they have not replied to your satisfaction within 21 days you will ask your lawyer to submit a small claim for all costs and fees incurred, in addition to you informing all the relevant organisations about falsifying work done reports. Hopefully that will knock some sense into them, because they have lot more to lose if they continue to ignore your complaint EDIT : May I suggest copies of your letter are also sent to Service Manger at the dealer and the Managing Director (look it up on Companies House website, if you don’t know it). mark it at top CC to these two. You are more likely to get them be more aware of the consequences this way. List the faults as advised by the tyre centre so they know what they need to fix.

Please don’t ever use a brick. They crumble. Always a hefty lump of wood. Or 2. From one who’s been swapping wheels for half a century and has enough tools and jacks to compete with Kwik Fit 😀

Great news, not too long to wait, mine is being built next week, (Build Wk16) confirmation of order given on 28th February, anticipated delivery in May 😊

If the Yakima bars are like mine and tighten using red wing nut type things check them regularly. Just done 300 miles with 2 canoes on the roof and the rear bar had slipped! On checking the front they weren't as tight as I'd done them previously. Might have you add a second nut or some thread lock on them.

True, but, the current theory is that the steel mesh etc which is all there is in most modern cars, is only there to capture crap from "rogue" fuel, and that would start to cause a drop in fuel delivery due to a problem with the fuel delivered into the fuel tank. So, in the past, it was assumed that all fuel supplies were slightly dirty particle wise and so a replaceable fuel filter was provided, now in developed countries, it is assumed that fuels are clean.

Lovely evening earlier.........

Sounds like they're treating you to two new front tyres plus another inspection at an unaffiliated garage for anything else they missed at PDI!

I ordered some new wheels for road use... I will keep the 17' spiders and fit them with some sticky rubber getting ready for a track day which I have booked in July. I will be honest although I really wanted a bold wheel, when these arrived I was worried I'd made a huge mistake! However once fitted they look so much better on the car! Currently with 8mm spacers on the front as thats all I had to hand as the tyre was fouling on the spring adjuster. As for the rear they fitted without issue but definitely could do with a spacing out. What does everyone think so far? Thoughts and opinions are welcome!

an update. I installed a voltmeter, i am not expecting to run on battery again (which a voltmeter would be extremely useful so i know when to stop) but it i do lot of camping where i need to power many devices using the car, so, a voltmeter is very useful for me. uhmm.. thats actually the fog lights switch, in the small blank space at the right of that switch i installed an even smaller switch for the voltmeter. i got a voltmeter screen the thinnest one in the market, and i fit it in another blank button and then put a tinted plastic over it so it looks like a small screen, it is powered by the first contact of the key, so it is off if the key is out. (yes, the ac vents are still pending)

I'm very sorry for all the troubles you have. Pls let me know on private message VIN of your car, I will check what is the unit model number and prepare a solution.

And just like that, it’s in the UK awaiting transport. Looking good for delivery before the end of the month

No they are all like that, at least Audi has started changing then round, need to file a bit where it goes in to fit facing downstream. Could it be the vanes in the turbo want freeing off?

Car also got a polish yesterday so I took some sexy shots...

I realize my sentence may be misunderstood. I've never driven other options than those I suggested above.

Hopefully they'll not look too hard at the lack of a dpf/cat Calipers got high build primed: Then sanded back and painted: Got lazy and didnt bother masking off the piston and boot, doubt it'll make much odds. Also got new discs and an abs sensor as one of them on the axle was damaged getting it off the car and the correct size heat shields ( not sure if they can be put on without needing to replace the wheel bearings.) Its basically ready to go into the car otherwise, end of next week is still when i'm aiming to have it done.

Picked up the new iV from Gt Yarmouth today so enjoyed the 90 mile journey home. Proper printed handbook. Woo hoo. 3 keys. Now charging from the 3 pin socket in the garage. However, isn't it complicated? The ST I sold : jump in, hit the starter and blast off. In the iV? Still not used to the screen, no engine noise. Nice car, though and excellent service from the dealership.