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Mine in the country side 😀

Certainly glad to see the back of this today!

So the reason of the noise is a loosen bolt on the pinion of the exhaust camshaft. Actually almost all 5 bolts were loose, but one in particular was about to fall and was hiting the camshaft cover, causing the noise. The mechanic was very surprised to see this on a 4 year's old car! good news is that reparation was easy, just retighten the bolts.

Gandalf went in for the 75k service today - clean bill of health. 👍🏽 Car has done 64k km. Plenty of life left in the factory rotors + pads. Guess I'll b holding off for a lot longer for those dba T2 rotors and pads. Brake fluid flushed and replaced. Tyres good (replaced last year). Battery good (replaced last year under warranty). Factory wipers still in good condition. My 5 yr warranty has come to an end. Here's to another 5 yrs 🍻

A very good point. On the M27 near me it's a nightmare - joints in the concrete surface, old white lines blacked out, remains of roadworks marking blacked out, and new (and wearing quickly) white lines. Enough to confuse any driver (and lane assist) in the best of conditions, but then add damp surface and low sun angle. I can sense a disaster waiting to happen...

They aren't Torx (6-point) , they are XZN/triple square (12-point) heads. M10 size XZN bit required, despite the thread size being M8. See here for how to find out by measurement what size XZN bit you need for any XZN bolt head you might come across on these cars: triplesquaretable.pdf

The all-caps there suggests you may share the same worries as I have about real range of EVs on a long journey. I don't know how the WLTP range for an EV translates to 200 miles of motorway driving in the coldest day in December for instance. For an ICE car like my current Octy diesel, I see my best MPG figures economy on a long motorway run; I can just about beat its "official" (pre-WLTP) figures on a run like that. But in urban driving etc. I can never get near those figures. This must bring down the official MPG figures quite a lot;. So the official MPG for an ICE is made up of good economy at constant speeds on fast roads but poor economy in urban areas. But for EVs, they are much better than ICEs in stop-start urban traffic because of the regen. I imagine the official range figure for an EV is the other way around to an ICE; made up of good figures in urban areas, but poor economy at constant speeds on fast roads. Which means if you want to exercise your EV's range by long journeys on fast roads, it could be much more disappointing (compared to the official economy figure), than the ratio you'd get for an ICE. This video is interesting - a big battery Enyaq (official range 318 miles on that particular model) could only manage an estimated 200 miles range at 70mph, and that's before any lights or heating were switched on. Despite the claimed 300mile plus range, that guaranteed 200 mile range seemingly isn't there for any Enyaq. https://youtu.be/mmQJUW-VyRY?t=1161 The problem is that (as above) the current crop of full EVs have such mediocre range, and I'm not sure even the really expensive one's are that great. Whereas a PHEV is much more likely to get you there on one tank. A Range Extender may have to do a petrol station stop on a long journey (will be interesting to see the specs of that MX-30) but that will only take 5 minutes. The cost of those big batteries also drives the price up. If Mazda do release a Range Extender in the UK it will be interesting to see how much the petrol engine+generator increase the price compared to the cost of increasing the battery. The MX-30 is already quite cheap compared to many EVs, presumably because the battery is so small. The extra weight of petrol to give a 400 mile range compared to a 100 mile range is much, much less than the weight of EV batteries you'd need to give the same increase.

There used to be a saying years ago, that if you took your Rover car to a Colliers garage to fix one fault, it would come back with two new ones. It is in the spirit of that thought, that I start this thread. What I'm trying to collate in this thread, is modifications to Skoda vehicles to be driven by the average person, that were implemented and gave the desired effect, but unfortunately created a new problem that meant further work was needed to accommodate the modification, or meant that the modification was abandoned and deemed to be a failure. I don't care if people disagree with individual experiences, what is going to be a problem for some folks is likely to be a positive feature for others. I suppose I'd better give some examples of upgrades with undesirable side effects. I once bought a tuning box for a 90BHP Seat Ibiza. It worked in conjunction with a vacuum hose, and gave a good slug of extra torque and was fun to drive when accelerating. However, it was a bit on/off in the delivery of the extra power, and what this meant was that when cruising on the motorway, a slight change on the accelerator would cause the car to surge forward undesirably. This gave the effect for passengers of driving in a car where the driver is constantly either accelerating or braking and was unable to drive smoothly. The problem was solved by the company whop supplied the box, by replacing it with a box that used electrical signals to determine how much extra power to provide, and it worked pretty well. So while I got what I wanted with the extra power, I also got something I didn't want with on/off characteristics until the box was replaced. Catalytic convertor removal: I removed the cat on my Rover 420 to "release more power". It didn't release much extra power, but it did release a load of additional noise. This was all well and good when trying to sound cool vrooming about town, but on my daily motorway commute it did my head in, and it wasn't long until the catalytic convertor went back on and the de-cat pipe came off. Same goes for the Pipercross cone air filter I fitted. It added a load more noise, not much power (if any), and was an oily greasy mess to clean and re-oil. I'm pretty sure it had far poorer filtration ability than the OEM air-filter. So off it came. ( I appreciate that these two mods are changes that for some people would have been an unmitigated success, but for me they were failures.) Brake upgrades that need to "warm up". Great on race tracks, downright dangerous on normal roads. Suspension changes that lower the car so you have to modify your wheel arches, or you have a harsh ride that's only fit for a racetrack. This thread isn't about disrespecting anyone's successful modifications that they have implemented and are very happy with. This thread is all about capturing people's dissatisfaction with their vehicle modifications, and providing a resource of experiences that temper the natural enthusiasm of changing bits on your car without knowing all the pros and cons. I accept that what is an undesirable negative for some, may be a desirable positive for others. That's cool! So long as people can make an informed decision, that's what this thread is about. While it's aimed at performance upgrades (which is why it's posted in this part of Brisky), but if you want to talk about upgrading bulbs that caused a load of crazy error messages to crop up unexpectedly, that's good too. If the mods want to move the thread elsewhere, then that's okay with me. I'll start with a simple one from my experience, as I haven't actually made any performance mistakes on my car yet. I upped the base voltage at which the Start/Stop system would activate. I had intended this would mean the hardwired camera wouldn't be power-cycled by the stop/start system dropping the battery voltage below the "battery-saver" level set by the dash camera. The unwanted and unacceptable side-effect, was that it effectively disabled my stop-start system as it almost never kicked in. Now for some, that may be a very desirable feature, in which case, go for it. But I didn't fancy being stuck on a motorway for some time in a tailback with a disabled stop-start system. If I want the stop/start system disabled, I can press the button to disable it, I don't want it almost permanently crippled (though others may want that). So it was reset back to the default voltage setting, lesson learned.

It's not. Any 'quality' SD card will suffice for a Columbus system. The faster the better though.

@john999boy FYI: your signature isn't visible on a mobile phone with web view mode on. Desktop mode on phone browser it shall appear, or in full fat computer browser. In response to your thread you locked.

Getting to basics, maybe best to tell us what infotainment system you have too.

Got a phone call from the dealer today and I'm booked in to collect a week tomorrow - it's actually happening!!

Well saved. Hopefully VW Group have a TPI covering this now. I can imagine the old 'We have never heard of this before' if anyone has a failure within or out of the warranty.

Front strut brace …. Yeah it stiffens the front up, but at the expense of increased understeer. Coilovers …. Yes it’s nice to have sporty feeling suspension, but as some will know that simply lowering the ride height isn’t enough as other parts of the geometry are pushed out of spec and can easily ruin a decent set of expensive boots! Not fitted myself, but reports on solid engine mounts have led to a more positive and quicker gear change, but at the expense of much increased cabin vibration. Too much for some who reported that they put the OEM setup back in as it was so bad. Finally, Big-455 4-pot brakes with fancy Porsche wheels. Yes, they can stop you on a 5p piece at 80 and it’s nice to have a posh badge on your wheels, but what happens when you have a blowout on the motorway and your spare wheel won’t fit over those huge callipers….. wait 4 hours for the AA!!

My previous vRS (2015 220 EA888 IS20) developed an odd delay in the internal heating. The silica bag was intact. The short story was that the coolant check valve had failed and was reporting open when it was actually closed. Simple enough, but took a long time to diagnose, with a lot of trial and error. I was given the go ahead to bring the car home, while the dealer awaited the part. Didn't make it home as the turbo grenaded itself. Turns out the coolant check valve also sends coolant to the turbo (but not if it's faulty!) and this was considered to be the reason for the turbo failing (I suspect other factors). There was swarf in the engine, so it needed a strip down to check if the turbo had taken the engine with it too (thankfully not). Skoda initially agreed to cover the costs as it was likely the check valve had failed during the warranty period, but then retracted this as the car had been remapped (after warranty). Long story here: My cautionary tale is that what appears a simple heating issue, can actually have fairly catastrophic consequences (which the remap may have exacerbated). For me that was a rather bitter £3,000 bill. Gaz PS: 'nuvver one; When I inherited a 1989 Mk2 Golf GTI !6v (139bhp), it had a K&N panel filter - one of the ones you had to clean and oil. I changed it for a standard paper filter, and confirmed via rolling road that the K&N, on this car, made absolutely no performance difference whatsoever.

Thanks found out when I'd been checking my fuses before I put one of the small ones back in the wrong slot! My own stupidity, but it's all done now, wipers and indicators working and car starting, thank you to you all!

I’d take the car when it’s ready and ignore the plate personally. I heard loads of dealers say currently people are taking cars a few days before plate changes even just cos they’ve waited so long. Don’t think the plate makes much difference right now.

Probably fail in UK on last category (the demarcation lines are clearly visible) Far to many seem to have residue from previous roadworks, so have multiple lines, or poorly painted lines The driving speed range is 90-210km/h. (56-130 mph) so won’t work on some Welsh motorways where they now have 50mph restrictions

That is how it is.^^^^ DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG's have no Service Schedules, Guidelines or Recommendations from Skoda who at good times build 2,500 a day and have done for years now. If a dealership employee says they do need an oil change ( there are 2 oils) then ask the price and where they get their info and can they go get someone with a clue about Skoda cars. ......................................................... Just as a guide. & This does not apply to DQ200's (and DQ381's are at 80,000 miles. but some will stick doing them at 40,000) Prices have increased at some places or with the Fixed Service & Maintenance deals.

Hi, Our Yeti is now 6 years old; last year it had the cambelt & water pump replaced together with service and MOT costing over £800. Last week it had a major service & MOT costing £432; with 30K on the clock it sailed through the MOT and no issues were found; DMK at Wakefield always look after it and it's never missed a beat whilst being a joy to own and drive; my wife and I love it; no chance of trading it for a car which these days looks like every other new car. Skoda made a huge mistake in dropping yeti production; we'd be now collecting our third Yeti and absolutely no way do we want a battery car. The government wanted owners in diesel cars a few years ago so we're in a diesel car and will stick with it; who wants to own a car that when the battery needs replacing it will be cheaper to scrap the car; this is progress? The only real expenditure other than servicing was to fit Michelin Cross Climate tyres because of our steep valley location; the tyres cost £600 a few years ago and were fitted by "Tyresonthedrive". DMK Wakefield always do a good job and our Yeti will never be taken to a back street garage to save a few quid; I was told if we did trade in our Yeti wouldn't touch the ground it would sell so quickly; it's in excellent condition and I'd like to have it fully rustproofed which I need to look into rather than bother trying to do it myself; it's the best car we've ever had the pleasure to own and it's a keeper. Kind regards, Colin.

Only in this weather do I now appreciate ventilated seats. They realty do keep ones back, bum and neither regions lovely and cool!

not mine, but first mk4 vrs ive seen in real life.. from end of may, i forgot to put it up.. colour looks much better than the photo makes it look.

For the Superb MK2, you should be able to get the very best quality (eg. ATE) front and rear brake discs and front and rear brake pads for about £250 including shipping depending on the brake disc sizes. If you go for Bosch discs and ATE brake pads, the price drops to about £200 including shipping, as Bosch discs tend to be less than ATE discs. Of course, it depends on exactly what size discs you have. The best prices will tend to be for the smallest disc sizes, ie. 288mm front discs and 272mm rear discs on the Superb MK2. OEM brake diagrams for the Superb MK2 on 7zap https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/superb/sup/2016-768/6/ Also consider TRW brake pads, but unless they are a lot cheaper than ATE brake pads, I would go for ATE over TRW brake pads. TRW brake discs tend to be painted rather than coated, so I would go for ATE or Bosch brake discs over TRW brake discs as coated brake discs should offer better protected from corrosion.

Hi everyone! We welcomed our new Octavia yesterday. Its a 2021, 2.0 TSI it has all the right boxes ticked and the color is spot on. The plan for now is to lower it and add some maxton bits to it. But we will see how it will progress.

It's a manual car, it's 2yr old and covered over 8000miles. First things first. Bottom line is the clutch is a wear and tear item so no matter how you plead your case, it's not covered by warranty. With other items, if the car has been serviced by Skoda then you could make a case for goodwill if the part is expected to last longer. Unfortunatley it's a clutch, something you can wear out in 20mins. It comes down to one person's word against another and I'd never expect any company to replace the clutch free of charge given your circumstances. ( i.e. you were the previous driver - if someone else had the car and the clutch burned in such a short space of time, you could have had a case against the lease company who sold the car. ) I'd have gone along with the above suggestion - get a 2nd opinion. If my partner agreed to pay £2000 for a replacement clutch, I'd consider divorce not only because of 1) the cost is way over the top for a clutch replacement, but 2) if the previous clutch only lasted 8000 miles, why on God's earth would I want it to be replace with an identical clutch? That's just my school of thought. In the UK, we have a 3yr warranty as std. If your car had been a DSG then the clutch would have been covered for first 3yr or up to 60,000 miles, which ever comes first, but as I say with a manual clutch, well you can wear it out in 20mins. Never seen that post - before my time. Just had a very quick browse, loads of crap being talked about as usual but my initial thought at reading the first post was forget about warranty or anything else, if the car had only recently been purchased, the driver was only on his 4th journey and this happened, then he'd be covered under UK law - sale of goods act as it was probably then. Then on the 2nd page, the OP makes it a little clearer. The only information relevant in all of that was that he'd owned a used car for 2mths and had covered 1400 miles when the clutch went. Like it or not, 1400 miles is more than enough for someone to burn a clutch so no, it's not covered under warranty. It could have been covered under sale of goods ( goods expected to last blah, blah, blah ), but if the garage challenge that then you're looking at going down the legal route with no guarantee of winning. I think the 'goodwill' gesture was the sensible option in that case.

Ask them why they didn't need months notice to **** your car up! Tell them that you appreciate that they are too busy to put right their **** ups so they will need to authorise an equivalent hire car for you for the period.

I think you might need to use branded card, so Skoda/Seat/VW due to the Sat Nav reading a CID signature. If it's not on the "list" of valid CID's then it will reject you. Someone will confirm if this is correct for Columbus systems.

Are you using a Mac ?. If so you are suppose to use Keka for the unzip and run CleanMyDrive on the SD after. Just in case its a Mac issue. You are suppose to do that if using a Mac. Mib2 high it will stop the map import in its tracks but for a Mib2 Standard which an Amundsen is it will try to run with the gibberish associated with Mac characters that the unit may not like. That may well cause it to fail. You don't alter the cluster size. Those that have done on some of the cards have wrecked the card. Just a straight delete if using a PC and copy the unzipped contents onto it using 7zip. Mac the above. As said with an old fashioned format people have wrecked some of these cards. Windows 11 formats to a bigger cluster size by default it should be 4096 (correct number) and that can wreck the card if bigger. People play with the cluster size, it should be 4096 and Fat32. Those are the mistakes when people do a format rather than just right click and deletes what's on the SD.

Thanks for help😀 I do not know, but Kufatec where I bought the cables says the following: -CAN Bus 1 (gateway) - pins 7 and 17 -CAN Bus 2 (connector A-cloumn to ACC / front assistant sensor) - pins 9 and 11 -connect power cable to fuse SC32 (but it must be 35) in fuse box -ground to ground point (down in the A-column) In your drawing, there are both CAN connections 1 and 2, and pins 7 and 17 are connected to J533(CAN gateway?) CAN Bus 2 and ground are fine, these I have connected Have sent email to support at Kufatec, hope they can help(but I do not really think they can) 🤔

The dealer is now telling me the car doesn't actually need it's geabox service till 80,000 miles. If Wikipedia is correct it states "Since Model Year 2017, Škoda began equipping the 2.0 Litre 150hp Diesel and Petrol Superb with DQ381 DSG Gearboxes." According to @roottoot, the breakdown you posted, I may be barking up the wrong neck of the woods asking for the DSG oil service. Why on earth they never checked on this before agreeing to do it (which I don't think they have yet).

Mine's in for it's 53k "inspection" service tomorrow. Hopefully just an oil change. The air filter is washable now (with a big sticker on it not to replace it) & I replaced the pollen filter earlier this year. DSG & Haldex was done at 43k so should be OK for a bit. No doubt they will find something else but the indie garage I take it to are pretty honest & realistic in terms of what needs doing & what can wait.

I've fitted a large-bore exhaust and downpipe to my Rapid (4" downpipe, sports-cat and 3" exhaust with resonator) which sounds great. It burbles nicely at idle and if you boot it and lift, it crackles and pops (pop being the choice word as it's not like gunshots going off on some cars). On longer acceleration you get hear the induction noise of the turbo and even get the "whoo" noise through the exhaust when lifting off. A blow-off valve would be a nice addition, if purely for noise and nothing else. However take it above 65mph and the drone becomes all-consuming. If there's a hill involved, the radio has to be cranked up. Oh, and as I have found out, not all garages with pass a car's MOT with a Sports-cat. So there's that too. In hindsight I should have stuck with the cat-back exhaust upgrade and left it at that. Oh well, you live and learn

The 140 has a smaller turbo than the 170, so it spools up more quickly.

You'll be surprised at how well it goes, but can be extremely economical. I think it's the perfect balance across the engine range. I'm still amazed at the ~50 MPG on a long run.

I haven’t got any college books to hand to quote, but iirc it’s to do with the McPherson struts and chassis flex at the point of turning; As the car starts to turn, the weight is thrown to the outer wheel which digs in and helps turn-in. I believe the strut brace will reduce the flex by fixing the top of the struts together, thus keeping the car flatter during the turn and therefore reducing the outer wheel diggin in, resulting in the car sliding straighter rather than turning, More than happy for someone to correct me if this is wrong 🤗

All depends where you want the sound to come from? If you want exhaust sound - change the exhaust If you want boost sound - turbo muffler delete and a large aftermarket air filter with no baffles If you want engine sound - drain the oil and take it for a hard run, it will soon start making noise

This is more a marketing ploy than actual benefit. Reason is that the C rating for battery cell is more important for long term battery health. The 800v cars have similar size battery to 400v cars. So the C rating for the cells will be similar. Only benefit for 800v is being able to pull and push more power through the pack as a whole when batteries are much bigger to be able to take that kind of punishment (or the promised solid state type in the distant future) So for charging network, 800v and backwards compatible to 400v makes total sense. If you want to average 100 kw charging, you'd be looking at arriving at low state of charge (10%-20%). How reliable are your planned stop locations? Does it have enough chargers for broken charger to not be a problem?

It's a comfort feature that can be permanently disabled if you don't like it. Personally, I've had no problems with the ACC/travel assist so far when using it as intended 🙂

I drove VAG and then Ford diesels for 20 years before making the switch to petrol to avoid DPF issues. I loved the lazy grunt of diesel and it was a real wrench to make the swap, but driving the 2.0 150TDI and the 2.0190TSI (Octavias) gives much the same lazy grunt at low revs, with a load of extra oomph at the top end. I've never regretted the decision to swap, and the only downside so far is the mid-30's MPG tatting around town in traffic. As I hardly do any miles, that's a negligible negative for me. That said, if I did the right kind of miles, I would probably be still very tempted by a 190TDI as the extra low end grunt of the 190TDI and better fuel economy would have tempted me. But the 190TSI with the DSG gearbox is a very pleasing combination as far as I'm concerned. (Even better with a remap.) Edit: The Budack engine seems to do very well on Super Unleaded, rather than standard 95RON and is well worth the relatively little additional cost IMO. (For me anyway. If I was filling up every week I might change my tune on that bright idea. 😄)

Yeah you're probably right, to be fair my garage is usually pretty good but yes I checked all them, they were all OK too.

Fair play, best let them sort it out as you have only just picked car up!

The system in my IV works completely different to my e-Golf. It is much more sophisticated, although not consistent. In my e-Golf in 'B' mode (highest regen setting), I know the more I take my foot off the accelerator, the stronger the regen and quicker we slow (used around town only. I use no regen on the motorway, free wheeling which improves range). In my IV and in 'auto' mode, as you pointed out, it uses systems listed above to evaluate the situation and therefore determines how much regen to apply. Although clever, in every situation you are not aware beforehand of how much regen the car will apply and I find I have to apply the brakes myself much more and in some cases, harder than I would usually. The sat nav doesn't need to be programmed for the car to use. I don't programme the sat nav for driving around town for example and I have come up to a number of roundabouts with no vehicle in front and the car recognises the roundabout from the sat nav I assume and applies a higher portion of regen. However there are roundabouts on my route which the car doesn't recognise and applies hardly any regen. I tend to find the system works better if there is a vehicle in front where the radar also helps to determine the amount of regen in order to keep a safe distance. Although, again it sometimes is a bit dumb and may not apply regen hard enough meaning I have to put the anchors on to stop the car going bumper onto bumper. Inconsistent as I mentioned, which is why I tend to set the regen on 'high' giving me more control as I lift my foot off the accelerator. Don't get me wrong, it is a very clever system. Regenerative braking is like marmite. You either like it or you don't and coming from ICE vehicles, those who go down the gears in a manual gearbox will probably adapt to this feature easier. Others in an auto may take more time to get use to it. My wife drives an auto and loved the one foot control using regen on max in our e-Golf. However I don't think she would like the inconsistency the IV gives when in 'auto' mode. In 'high' or 'low' setting, I think people will adapt easier as there would be more consistency in how much regen is applied with the driver controlling this. I hope this helps. Another thing to note, is unlike a lot of the other features in the vehicle, once the car is turned off settings applied tend to go back to it's default mode. However the regen setting remains as set by the driver as part of the drivers profile which is nice.

It’s a lease, right? So, purely depends how vain you are as you don’t care about any small difference in residuals. On one hand, new reg plate is always nice, and what’s another couple of weeks when you’ve waited so long already… but on the flip side, I WANT MY CAR NOW, DAMMIT!

OMG, I apologize for replying so late! I totally overlooked your question. Honestly, I don't know. I never bothered to keep the data consistent. My most recent vehicle was a Corsa 1.3 CDTI, a 75 horsepower diesel designed primarily for city driving, and its fuel efficiency was acceptable. "Acceptable": my fuel costs weren't too high 😄 But then again, that was a different time. With this war, inflation and whatnot, everything is a bigger bang for the buck. Additionally, the 1.5 TSI is a more powerful engine, so a higher consumption is expected. In the meantime, I got used to the petrol engine and learned how to drive it effectively. On the open road I get around 5,9 l on average (for a 100 km trip). As for urban driving, it all depends whether I use A/C or not. So it's around 7.5 l on average. Also, when it comes to changing gears to 6th, I'm following the car's suggestions. Here in Zagreb, the traffic can be REALLY congested in the morning/afternoon. So you can rarely change to higher gears. There are some parts of the route where I can drive the car a bit faster. At around 70 kph it already suggests that I should change to 6th ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hi, just searched for 'SOS' on Briskoda and came upon your post. I can help you out as that's exactly what happened to me yesterday. Car ( kodiaq ) 20 months old, 1st SOS warning of any kind, then Sat nav on my dash started moving me over to the lake district and I ended up in the middle of the Irish Sea . I tried a reset ( hold power button for 10secs ) but the system hung on reboot and I couldn't use it at all. Stopped at service station about an hour later - waited 20mins, still nothing. Drove the remainder of the journey with no infotainment. It's all working again today but thought I'd at least register the problem with my local dealer. Straight away they said it's an issue that several people have reported and Skoda have released updated software ( they just haven't informed owners of the known problem / fix ). Car booked in to have the upgrade. They said the update has worked for everyone else and are quietly confident it will solve any further issues. Hope that's of some use to you. Edit: If anyone is wondering what the SOS message means, the car is informing you that the SOS system ( which auto calls emergency services if the airbags are deployed ) isn't working. So it's still perfectly safe to drive the car. I'm sure VW / Skoda could have warned you of this without us thinking there's some major fault with the car and it's about to blow up.

Hell. I see all those posts about delivery almost after year wait And feel i feel happy for you and really sad for myself. I ordered car year ago, and still do not have even build date. Are here more people like me, who wait 1 year and more and doesn't have build date?

Another small step to autonomous vehicles. 👍(I think!)

^^^ I agree. Then when you can or want to or need to get an EV get a Polestar 2, or if a smaller car Kia Soul or the new MG when available. Or whatever is out and tried and tested and onto their 2nd or 3rd generation and without snagging faults that too many new launch EV's have.

Have you checked cabin fuse number 7 (5 Amp)? And strip fuse number 5 (50 amp) above the battery? For the price of about 10 litres of diesel you could equip yourself with the necessary KKL cable and download freeware VCDS Lite, if you have a windows laptop.

10kWh of user usable capacity. 13kWh of real capacity.