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Did you mean DPF? What part did you replace for £85?

Throw it back as "not as described".

Got messed about by the last guy for weeks on end so sacked him off. Dropped it off with another mate while I went to Turkey and picked it up yesterday. £700 lighter but cills have been re-made, all the holes in the roof welded up (police aerials and roof rails). He then dropped it off with another mate to do the mot and oil change. It's also had 2 new front wishbone bushes (rear ones) and I've had to put 2 rear shocks on as the 8 month old stance+ are absolutely shot so a warranty claim will be going in for them! Looks like I'll be keeping this one a while.

I have just looked at an Enyaq on the Cazoo site to see whether I could download the results of the 300 point inspection but it does not seem to be available to buyers. However the details of the Enyaq do state that they car out an oil and filter change on EVERY Cazoo car before they list it for sale. I wonder which oil and filter they charge on a electric car?

Hi @mr93 the car is going back to Skoda on Wednesday under the used approved warranty for this issue and a few other niggles. They are providing an Octy estate and I won’t take the Superb back until satisfied it is sorted. 🤞🤞 I’ll update with what they find / say on here.

Try using "brakes" instead of "breaks" in your search terms 💡 I find searching google with Briskoda followed by your search terms gives better results than the forum search function, that is true for most forums.

https://www.cazoo.co.uk/300-point-inspection-report/ '67 - Coolant: Adjust coolant content if necessary' - I guess 'adjusting' isn't the same as topping up 🙄 'In addition to a thorough inspection, our technicians take each used car for a full road test to check its engine performance, steering and brakes and to ensure that it's in full working order.' - All good then 👍 Inspection and technicians seemingly not particularly trustworthy then. Surprise, surprise. Gaz Edit: This one made me chuckle - '13 - Keys: Check at least one key is present'

I like the RAC Approved Used Dealerships and 92 point checks and 1 year Warranty & Road Side Assistance or option 4 year Warranty etc. Dealers can advertise the cars for sale as soon as dropped off & even before they even have them and having the 92 point inspection. Obviously they do at some point inspect the cars, put anything right & all is well. Cazoo have the cars there, have a socially inclusive employment policy which includes the employment of photographers and the visually impaired.

12 year old suspension on a Mk2 Fabia estate might well need a refresh. Engine and gearbox mounts as well. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/396672-vrs-suspension-upgrade-options http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/504301-advice-appreciated-on-a-suspension-kit-for-my-mk2-vrs-estate http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/387552-fabia-ii-vrs-estate-suspension-modifications-hr-springs-or-ap-coilovers

'Wheels - check, Tyres - check' That's 8 to start with😆.

@litehead Maybe find a car trimmer / upholsterer that can take you car and work on your seat / covers and make adjustments so that you have the lumber support or firmer seat cushion that you need. The car could stay looking standard or even you could upgrade possible at less expense than replacing seats.

Welcome. The problem with Cazoo seems to be Cazoo. So their inspections are kidology obviously. Return the car if you wanted a peach and got a lemon.

In my fuzzy memory I would have sworn there was an O2 sensor on the downpipe but there is not! I even went back and double checked all of the photos from when I pulled the head out. So that theory is out. Further things to check - CIS metering plate. Fuel filter on CIS head (haven't looked for that yet, cant be hard to find Makes sense to check that when I do the fuel filters and pump. Someone suggested it on FB and I've been thinking about it for a while - is to fit a wideband O2 sensor and AFR gauge. It means removing the downpipe again though to get a sensor bung welded in. Photoshoot pt. 2

My first Octavia was a 1.4TSI manual as my ex had a 'thing' against autos, but my current Octavia is a 1.8TSI DSG and I love it (in between I had an auto Toyota Aygo which she refused to drive). Not only is the DSG nicer to drive but my 1.8TSI DSG gives better mpg figures than the 1.4TSI manual despite me driving it enthusiastically(!).

Yeah tried searching but the replies are scartered over 100 posts and the search funktion sucks at least on this phone 😑

Thanks all for your helpful comments. It really does seem that the DSG gets a big thumbs up. Right now I need to convince my wife that I need to swap to one. Obviously it will be for her benefit so she doesn’t need to keep swapping form DSG to manual all the time. Wish me luck (I’m gonna need it)

All seems to be very glowing for the DSG. My wife has a 69 plate so it’s a TSI GTi the car isn’t really for me it’s fast alright but a bit small. As for engine I currently have a diesel VRS which is fine just jealous of the DSG a little

I've driven manuals for around 30 years now, converted to autos around 5 years ago and never looked back, autos all the way for me including the dsg box.

Fitted the heater back into the car today, which took far longer than it shoud have. I'm using some Xpanda foam tape which is good, but is more dense than the orignal stuff. I think this pushed the bottom of the heater box slightly out of shape. This combined with the firewall grommet that goes around the heater matrix made it almost impossible to fit. In the end, I had to get one side partially clipped in, and brace myself against a wall to force the otherside far enough for it to clip in too. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. Its all clipped in nicely now and isn't under stress, so I don't think anything is wrong. I may take it off again tomorrow to see if the foam has settled and nothing has been trapped, I don't want to be taking everything apart again if something isn't right.

Also the cutting of power in the first place is a safety feature, because its assumed the accelerator may be stuck, so you're trying to brake. The SSP also makes reference to the fact that, if one of the pair of brake light switches fail, then the ECU will reduce power.

I mean, you could go mad and strip back the both to nothing, respray the shell, and then fit with some sort of engine. However, that would cost a fortune. Would look amazing though.

Ideally you would want the left side to feed a supply from the battery, unfortunately most if not all the wiring into the cabin goes through on the drivers side. You need to remove the wipers and scuttle panel, then you can see the view attached. I have arrowed a "potential" entry into the left side of the cabin but you would need to locate it up under the dash to ensure you can access the other side. If thats not accessible, then on the drivers side, there is the main electrical loom entry, you can access this by looking up above the pedals on the drivers side, you can see "arrowed" where I went in with the factory cruise control kit. Using both scenarios you would need to get through the engine firewall first, that can be done through the bonnet release cable exisiting grommet (if your new cable fits) or drill a hole near to where is is.

Cumalatively there are millions of miles of testing, companies like Ricardo have whole sections of employees that do nothing but drive pre-production vehicles on 3 shifts of 8 hours a day every day. Also new drivetrains transplanted into existing models. But it can never be the same conditions as commuter cars driven infrequently, the more you condense the test program (more cars running more hours and miles) the further away it gets from what the majority of production vehicles will experience.

Thanks @Urrell. I think I'll have a look at the throttle body for any gunk etc as was suggested. It also says people woth dpf issues can cause it run a bit stutterey in the low end, which mine also runs smooth. Even from 4th gear at idle revs

It's my sausage fingers. I hate writing on the phone 😅

@nta16 Here we are talking Mk2 Fabia vRS Estate or even the hatch. 136 kW minimum and a DQ200 DSG. Pretty crap suspension & brakes from the factory, narrower tyres than the sister cars from VW, SEAT & Audi got, parts often shagged in 6 years let alone 12. They did the job and some might still have the original parts. Dealer fit option in the UK that people did as a Factory order was the Eibach springs instead of what Skoda called 'Sport suspension as OEM on vRS & Monte Carlos.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On an older second hand car I would been refreshing a few other things that many engineers and mechanics say not to bother with/waste of time but that is just me and my experience, especially on a car I intend to drive in a spirited fashion on the road. It is no wonder I have no money left now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough. Been a long time since I have test driven a car from a garage but over here I think it has been a long time back since you were allowed out in the car by yourself, unless you were known to the garage, far too much paperwork to allow that. I hope you done a few lower speed braking tests before the 90 to zero. That is a good base but it does not usually cover the full maintenance service of car at 90,000 miles but perhaps yours does, if so you look for what has not been carried out, some items are not listed as part of services now but you might carry out if you want to have the car running really well particularly if you intend to drive it hard. Best tuning you can do on the car is to make sure the whole car is fully serviced, maintained and repaired and that often is beyond the usual Dealership/garage full service history. You need a solid base to work and get improvements and upgrades from (those that are actually improvements and upgrades). You do need to compare like with like, if you look a brand 'A', type/model 'B' discs usually their slotted and/or drilled discs are more expensive than their plain discs but you decide how much that price difference matters to you and how important the performance and looks/fashion are, good brakes are good brakes (and the tyres input to this). Again the tyre itself is important - but this is track stuff in which case you would probably want different tyres to the ones for road use or be happy changing tyres a lot (lot) more frequently. I am all for spirited driving but public roads are just that and not race tracks. There is no law against how quick you get to the speed limit here, at least not yet, but such hard driving is very wearing on a vehicle. Though It is great to see some bloke with all the money to have a supercar and not being able to set a launch control so sits embarrassingly at a stop or just limps off 🤣 - this was off the public road. I do not know how things go with your purchase but over here I can think of no reason why provided they are a standard size to the vehicle and wheels you would not be allowed to change to a set of better tyres within the 6 months and then as I put drive the car for that time to get used to it and discover what you want or needs changing or work done and this is the time to improve or upgrade, provided it keeps the overall balance of any system such as braking or suspension. On of the very best tuning aids for a vehicle that is often overlooked, and is generally transferable to similar vehicles is driver training and I say this as a self-admitted (and confirmed by others) not particularly great driver. A trained driver can improve the handling of most cars they drive just by the way they drive it, on the road or track, I know I've been out on the public road with a couple and on tracks with a couple. As with a lot of things in life it is not what you have but how you use it and you do not need to flash it around when you are confident in its use - all this excludes me unfortunately. ☹️ Good luck, one day all this will seem to make more sense.

Seems that you know what the issue is. Best have someone that knows these engines go over the work you have carried out. Did the friend write the new Engine Management / map or get it from someplace. It is them that you really need to talk with. More BHP & Nm's is great if it allows you to get up to speed quicker then coast and actually get better MPG's. So if the engine management / remap was fine & you drive sensibly still it will be your regens causing the extra use of fuel.

I would image you’ll have to ask the manufacturer, but that they’ll be pretty unwilling to share in any detail. Probably because the compound make up is the difference between two identical looking tyres being a top performer and a ditch-finder.

Amusing dashcam clip... https://i.imgur.com/TaTFfjN.mp4

Loving the black plates! Little drive, just under two hours running. No serious boost issues but I get a hesitation/missing around 4000rpm. This seems to be an ongoing thing since I’ve had the car on the road. Hoping new fuel pump and filters will help! Wondering if it’s just not quite giving enough fuel pressure for full load.

Spot on mate! The prefacelift lights were the giveaway for me, pretty sure the earlier ones have an asz engine. Curious which 6 speed this one has as I know there were 2 different ratios of boxes for these.

Forgot all about the arch liners! Yeah I'll definitely need to check them out, it has a Blackpool council parking disc on it so it's been by the seaside for some of its life. I appreciate you holding onto that bar for me Have the feeling this one will be quite crusty

Welcome. The 215/40 R 70's are fine on the Gigaro. The tyre size is standard on Polo, Ibiza & A1 Twinchargers. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/280947-215-40-17-tyres http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/329818-2154017-tyre-pressures The rest of your stuff is general maintenance and upgrading and there is 12 years pf posts covering it in this section and in the Fabia Project Section.

Reshelling into the cayenne would definitely be interesting to see. I'll have a wee look at the photos whenever you get them up if you need a second opinion, remove the rear arch liners on the new one too. Mine is beginning to rust in there. Also while I remember, I've got the rear crash bar in the back of the hut for you to collect next time you're over, no rush as its no longer in my way.

First off, Holy ****. Now that's out of the way, I've bought this lovely vRS today. Still even has MOT for a few days. Bullet points: -216k miles -A hybrid turbo that's blown -Egr delete -Decat -Pop and bang limiter (wonder why it blew) -2 ecus, a standard pd130 ecu and the 230hp one in it now -Coilovers -Decent Service history and a wad of reciepts -2 keys etc etc. Went up not expecting much, battery was stone dead but started from a jump start. Engine fired over very easy, engine itself sounds fine. Drove it onto the trailer even. Got it home and washed it, wasn't bad even though it sat outside for 3 months after the turbo went. Can't drive it for long but it does drive perfect all things considered. Whatever wheels are on it, they sit very wide on the car, no spacers here. They have vw caps on them and the guy I got it off reckons they are vw wheels but I don't think they are. If anyone knows what they are I'd love to know. Ream of paperwork with it. Set to work removing the seats and such, its pretty dirty inside and the front seats are quite worn. The doorcards are quite rough too. Happily I have sport seats and matching doorcards already. Came with a full-size spare too, took it out. More coming

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your brake fluid needs changing then do not wait to change it. If you have no firm evidence that it has been changed in the last 18-24 months then change it. You can test the brake fluid for moisture content but if you change it now you know for sure it has been done and when, how and what with. DOT 4 is fine but you can get some DOT 4 fluids that are better than others, ask a good supplier which is best for your needs as there may be different availability in different countries and regions. If you want to change from DOT4 make sure you know the difference between DOT 5 and DOT 5.1. For the brakes, steering and suspension change the tyres first as the tyres have effect on all three, don't wait if you are unhappy with the present tyres even if they are new. But do check your current tyres, even if they are new, that they are not damaged in anyway and that they are all at the correct tyre pressure. If they are brand new they make take a number of miles to be at their best certainly they make be "greasy" for the first 100-200 miles and may take even up to about the first 1,000 miles to settle in my experience. Changing the tyres will change the braking feel. Changing to slots or drilled discs is more about fashion that function but if you are into the fashion think about these later. Good quality brake pads will have more effect, yes coupled with good quality discs but they do not need to be slots or holes. The grip and handling of the tyre is about the design, manufacture and compounds and not the width, 205 is wide and 40 profile on 17" wheels already crashing and bumpy enough (or too much) for normal road unless you have racetrack smooth roads in Finland. We have all done it got a new car and wanted to go to the car toy shop and empty the shelves but you will be better owning and driving the car for a while to find out what you really need and want to do with it to make improvement. Plus whatever money you spend on toys you make need to spend on unexpected repairs, servicing and maintenance with a second hand old car new to you. First priorities are brakes, steering and suspension - tyres cover all three of those so sort them first (along brake fluid if required). Slamming your brakes on at 90mph to a full stop will do nothing to help cheap, crap or good tyres particularly if they are brand new with very few miles on them. I do not expect I have given you the answers you wanted but I hope some of it makes sense and helps and others will be along more into what you were expecting.

Hi, Take a look at cardiagn.com. You'll be able to download official workshop manuals for free. Chapter "General Body Repairs - interior" should be the most appropriate to find relevant information.

Hi. I have been to 2 different workshops where one workshop immediately said that I have to go to Skoda to troubleshoot it. The other workshop investigated and took money for spending time on it. And they say that Skoda is the only one that can do it as it comes up from the panoramic roof. I then went to Skoda who told me that it would probably cost about 15-1700 dollars to make it. and they only have time in 3 weeks. I then instead drove over to a 3 workshop at my friend's, and we then found out that it was the drain (pipe) that was blocked. It got air pressure through so it started draining out again. Here I think there are probably some amateur workshops. There are currently no more water into my car. it has been standing in rainy weather for a week and received lots of buckets of water.

Ok so after being given a “provisional build week of 12th sept” I surprisingly got an email Sept 13th to say my car was complete and currently waiting shipment to the UK from a port In Germany. And to expect delivery mid October. I’m as shocked as everyone else. I will update the spreadsheet.

Nope. Didn't beep the first time after (re)setting it - but then started beeping again after that. Same every time I (re)set it.

I have driven automatics before as part of my work, I have the dry DSG Monte Carlo 1.5 and I am smugly pleased with it. Smooth and almost as quick as a manual box.

Guys girls stay possitive after long time it's finaly myyyyy

Like I said, the waiting never ends…

2015 V6 3.6 from delivery to dirty after off road

Having had a rns510 go bad on me advice on here allowed me to determine it was broken sno now have a refurbed one...this thankyou is for a past thread I looked at on the dreaded heater blower not working...some mentioned glove box out and another piece of stuff out but someone mentioned it was possible to get blower out without removing anything and even posted pics.thought I would give it ago...I don't have the smallest hands but hey presto...blower out and almost not moving...good clean and gt85 and fins spinning like a trooper..so blower back in and working 100%..all done on less than 20 minutes..money saved and thanks to the input on this forum. Thankyou

We've debated on here several times why Skoda UK say the cambelt should be chnaged after 5 years (or equivalent miles) when VW UK and Audi UK and other country importers either specify much longer time/mileage intervals or even 'lifetime' (whatever that means). The more cynical members (me included) have suggested it's to provide a source of income for dealers, but I doubt we'll ever know as many of us (me included) are risk averse.

Just upgraded my 17" Rays with 18" GMP Angels. These are running on 225/35/R18s and I've also had it lowered by 30mm on the Eibach springs and fitted the OEM mudflaps. I've still to get the Skoda center caps hence the hole in the middle. Only driven it a few miles but no rubbing and the ride quality is no worse than the Rays. Transforms the car looks IMO, the arch is filled now - just need to take care on those kerbs ...

Problem solved, found someone with VCP and we uploaded correct firmware FL_5Q0980556B__0231. Now i have 4 camera modes and coding 04840201A2002017000040 worked without a problem.