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Pretty sure that folder should be called 'maps' rather than 'maps 2'? At least based on DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2010_V17.7z which I just downloaded to check the structure for you I'd try renaming it and running cleanmydrive again.

This is what I'm talking about. I think some of the affluent folks with EVs have absolutely no idea what it's like to be hard-up, and find yourself being forced to fall in line with someone else's green agenda. They're always banging on about how they want to do something about "poverty", but they don't seem to actually have any experience of it themselves. I have married friends with five kids living in rented accommodation. At the moment they get by with two cheapo cars which allows them to squeeze everyone in when they all go somewhere, but they don't all travel together most of the time. They can't afford one EV, far less two. Even if they could afford an EV (they can't), what if their landlord doesn't want an EV charger fitted to their property, for whatever reason? The government has imposed artificial deadlines that are going to cause a lot of people a lot of bother. Another example: My lovely elderly neighbour stopped driving fairly recently. She had a 16 year-old automatic Vauxhal Corsa that did her quite nicely until driving was beyond her. I suspect there are quite a few elderly people who bought a car a few years ago and intend for it to see them out. They're perfectly fine to be driving, but it would be impossible for them to afford to buy a replacement vehicle. It can't be nice to be elderly and find yourself priced off the road because your older vehicle no longer complies with the ULEZ zone that you suddenly find yourself living in.

@Titanium_Man - Haven't heard much from you in a bit. Hope all is well in your wee part of the world.

Hello, a proud owner of Škoda Superb 2018 here 🙋‍♂️ Can't wait to start solving all the mysteries my car has hidden. 😆 Want to say thanks for all the help everyone has done here, I see there is a lot of problem solving and I really appreciate it. Here are some photos of my car.

It's common knowledge that these looms frequently give trouble in mk2 Fabia and others with similar connector/boot type, and it's not too tricky to eyeball the wiring under the rubber boot for obvious breakages in the door hinge area. Measuring wires end to end with a multimeter to check continuity may add reassurance that the wiring is really intact, and potentially help to locate faults to more exact locations. For example, the door lock module. If all the wires are measured as reaching their destinations it may save unnecessary loom replacement, or confirm loom fault if they don't. The photos and tables here relate only to one particular variant of loom, with part number 5J0971120GK from 2012 (the letters at the end being not always simply a 'revision number' but may actually be the only difference in the part number of functionally different loom variants). Thanks go to @jps711 for permission to use this loom for photos and information gathering during repair. If anyone wishes for info on looms with different part numbers, I may be able to help find the differences, and would welcome any unwanted/broken looms that might be cluttering up anyone's garages/sheds since replacement. For each I might receive I'd do dedicated wiring tables, with cross-checking against circuit diagrams. It's not completely straightforward to find the info via the circuits, as they are grouped by functions (e.g. mirrors, windows, locking), not 'here's the wiring diagram of the whole drivers door' for example. This is the area that always contains the faults, due to a poor design where the loom just bends back and forth with door movement, rather than a twisting action as used on earlier cars, with a vertical dog-leg in the rubber boot. The photos and wiring tables are from the 'destination connectors' points of view. I strongly recommend using short pieces of solid wire to temporarily insert into connectors at each measurement point, as many mulitmeter probes are not sufficiently fine to go in far enough to make good contact. Double check that the meter hasn't 'gone to sleep' or otherwise malfunctioned any time you don't get a beep when expecting one, do this by shorting the two probes to each other. This is the pin numbering arrangement of the door disconnect connector, viewed on the mating face. Be aware that the rotating orange latch needs to be in the open position to disconnect and reconnect this from/to the A-pillar male counterpart. Attempting to refit with the latch in the wrong position will fail, and can cause pin damage, possibly. On to the nitty-gritty of the pinouts. All photos are as above, of the mating face of the connector, observe the housing features to ensure same orientation: Pin number at this connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Blk/yel 9/28 2 Wht/blu 6/8 at mirror conn 3 Brn 16/28 4 Gry/blu 8/28 5 Blk/blu 7/28 6 Wht/grn 11/28 7 Wht/blu 7/8 at mirror conn 8 No connection 9 Grn 12/28 10 Wht/grn 8/8 at mirror conn Pin number at mirror interconnect connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 No connection 2 No connection 3 No connection 4 Blk/red 13/28 5 Brn 16/28 6 2x Wht/blu 10/28 and mirror sw 2/10 7 Wht/blu mirror sw 7/10 8 Wht/grn mirror sw 10/10 Pin number at loudspeaker connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn/blu 22/28 2 No connection 3 Blu 21/28 4 No connection Pin number at Int monitor switch connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Blu 17/28 2 No connection 3 Red/blk 15/28 4 Brn/yel 18/28 Pin number at WM connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1-3 inclusive No connections 4 Grn/blk window sw 4/4 5 Gry/wht 5/28 6 Wht/blk window sw 3/ 4 7 Brn 16/28 8 Thick brn 24/28 9-15 inclusive No connections 16 Thick Red/wht 25/28 Pin number at window switch connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn 16/28 2 Gry/blu 8/28 3 Wht/blk 6/16 at Window Motor 4 Grn/blk 4/16 at WM Pin number at lock connector Wire colour(s) Pin number at 28-way door disconnect, and/or other conn 1 Brn 23/28 2 Blu/yel 1/28 3 Vio/yel 2/28 4 Grn/yel 3/28 5 Yel/brn 4/28 6 Brn 16/28 7 Yel/blu 6/28 8 No connection Please let me know if you find errors or omissions in the above, or if you know how to format it so the tables are alongside the photos! Cheers Pete

Good evening all. It was -2c as I turned the car on this morning at 0710, I was tired, could not see out the drivers side so I did the one thing I shouldn't have....and pop, the cable went and wrapped itself around the motor. I did the same thing in my passat, the second I pushed the switch I knew I was an idiot. Again. Having spent 2.5 hours putting a new regulator in years ago, purchasing a riveter for the speaker and swearing at the car constantly I decided to simply call the local indy, new one from Skoda going in at £126 + vat on the 22nd. At least it broke whilst up not down! The moral is, if its freezing out and you park 50ft from the North Atlantic, DO NOT push that switch people, resist all temptation. Moron.

Bingo!! Oh my goodness, it was as simple as that - thank you so much I had a really old file, not even car related, called 'maps', which is why it had defaulted to 'maps 2' once unzipped. Version 17 maps, and all working tickety boo, on the original 16gb SD card. Muchas gracias Langers! 👍 😎 Gaz

I had condensation inside the right side light. Looked just like in Hairy_Joe’s photo. All I know they checked the lights and then asked permission from somewhere factory/importer etc. When i went to collect the car both sides were changed under warranty.

Amusingly my Skoda ownership has also been Mk1 Octavia estate (non VRs 1.8t 4x4) and then a Mk3 Superb 280 And i still miss that Octavia!

I justified the new ev based on my 20k plus miles per year so fuel saving was most of the monthly payment. Once the electricity cost (public rapid) was as much as putting petrol into a 45 mpg car then the numbers didn’t add up anymore and the time and inconvenience of rapid chargers started to grate. If you are out and back from a home charger on a reasonable tariff then it is great (although even that is now expensive). I previously had no pcp car payment, I bought 3 year old cars and ran them until 10 years old saving up over the 7 year ownership to buy the next car. The fact I could effectively cash out of the Enyaq finance, and get the money back I had used for my deposit to buy another car outright, was too good an opportunity to pass up. I think if you want an ev and the sums work then go for it. Longer journeys, and I went the length and breadth of the country in mine, are not straightforward though, the infrastructure isn’t great in some areas.

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bear in mind the engine probably won't be the only thing worn and less efficient than new on a 29 year old car. Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc.. How long the 10% climb is, wind direction, ect., etc.. I don't know the gearing of your car but wonder why you are approaching and climbing a 10% in 5th gear if you are likely to have a lorry or van behind you. Obviously you can go at whatever legal reasonable speed you want but you're helping to keep the bad stereotype of the old Skoda badged cars (I had 3 Estelle's in the 80s so know all about that). I would wondered f you're leaving your gear changing too late to maintain momentum on the inclines, that's what the gearbox is there for. On a flat road once you have got up to reasonable speed it takes a surprising low hp figure to maintain that speed if the vehicle is in reasonable condition, I'll leave it to @Thefeliciahacker to do the maths (with an S) and come up with a figure.

As you get older you point the boot to the prevailing wind and the engine to the sunshine, automatically, can be applied to people as well! 😀

If there are brake wear indicators there're only on front brakes. Indeed, I fear that not all Superb Mk3 are fitted with. But, for front brakes "the wear limit is reached at a pad thickness of 7 mm, including backing plate (2 mm without backing plate)." For rear brakes "the wear limit is reached at a pad thickness of 7.6 mm, including backing plate (2 mm without backing plate)." Information in italics taken from official Workshop maintenance manual (§ 5.1, p124). To be downloaded for free on cardiagn.com.

They look the same pal, with clear lenses. Just go into your boot, as these are normally the easiest to get to. Prise off as mentioned in the thread previous, have a look and compare. They are so easy to remove pal, if I recall it's the top edge, which should be shorter, that clips out. Will take seconds. If you want red bulbs there are loads out there, again prices vary as do quality. I think I'd give it a go for the price as long as you local to collect.

Mine does this on the odd occasion. Usually the mirrors stop folding when holding the lock button. When I unlock it after, all 4 windows drop about 1". Put the ignition on, roll all 4 windows all the way down, then all the way back up to the top. Once at the top, click up once on each window control again. That resets the limits and sorts it out.

Update from dealer. Keep an eye on it and if it persists to get back onto them. I'll report if I've any news

Really your choice, if it ain't broke don't fix could apply, so maybe if you're happy and not experiencing any bug's, best left alone. It's always available if you change your mind.

So, sadly the time has come to say goodbye to my MK1 VRS Estate. (Pic of when I got it) Unfortunately, the cost of maintinence/outstanding work is starting to get too high and I'm not willing to put a bunch of money into an aging car anymore. The final straw was the exhaust snapping where the pipe joins the rear silencer and to my surprise, it was the original exhaust, so I think it's done well to last this long. I have been unable to source an OEM equivilent of the same style from any parts shops, eBay or breakers yards and I don't want to pay £400-500 for a Jetex or Piper system and the noise that might come along with them. Sounds bad enough with it snapped! Current outstanding work list: Persistant oil leak (Replaced rocker gaskets and other common point of egress, still happening) Minor coolant leak above gearbox Creaking noise when turning steering near full lock Rust on rear tailgate under glass Rust on driver side passenger door Drivers seat bolster padding worn away Ingress of water during heavy rain - Boot and rear passenger doors Timing belt and water pump due Drivers side engine mount replacement Exhaust replacement Luckily, it's not going too far. A family member is going to take it on as their car got stolen and have not replaced it yet. Up to them if they wish to fix the outstanding, or just do the exhaust so it passes an MOT. I am still sticking with Skoda though and have already sourced my new car, so this will be my 3rd Skoda. I ended up settling on a 2017 Skoda Superb Sportline Estate 280 DSG AWD. I was originally looking at VW Golf R and Seat Leon Cupra 300 Estates and also maybe the Cupra Ateca. But I really don't like the styling on those and feel they look quite lairy/boy racer-ish. My ideal car is one that looks nice, practical (hence estate) and is suttle, but has the power to shift when I feel like it. Plus the extra features like Adaptive Cruise Control, Electric Tailgate and Kessy sealed the deal. Intention is to settle into the car for a while and then start doing minor things like a stage 1 remap for the engine and DSG in the future. So, this is not me leaving Briskoda, only moving next door into the Superb MK3 threads. All the best people! 🙃

I do miss my MK1 Octy VRS, but my family member has taken it on and seems happy with it so far (minus the exhaust noise). Thanks for the offer anyway @DeanVRS20VT, my next step would have been the classifieds on here. I've always liked the MK1 Octavia, very practical cars that were bigger than a golf and not as much money. Had a 2002 Elegance 2L before the VRS and it was also great. Shame all the estates seem to rust on the tailgate under the glass! @skinnyman I had been looking at them for some time before needing to replace my car. Just so happens that one at the right price per month came along when it did. Keep looking, maybe they will come down in the new year a bit more, who knows. Absolutely loving the Superb SportLine though, cannot express how quiet, practical and quick this car is. I have also bought myself an OBD Eleven Pro Pack to code the car, managed to enable the following so far: Adaptive Lane Assist Light Assist for the headlights - (Blocks beam out for oncoming when using highs, will see how this goes) Rear DRL's Heated Seat Memory Disable Stop/Start system - A scam to kill batteries in my opinion I'm going to wait a bit before I look into remapping it, but to be honest, it has more than enough power for the road (atm )

Wow, that looks impressive; badly impressive, not in a good way. Is the condensation frozen too? I'm suggesting a new standard feature for the LED headlights: heated front sides of the headlights.

Oh that's quite bad, mine have little bits of condensation and I believe that's nirmal because the LED's don't get hot enough to evaporate it. Nowhere near yours, which will probably change the beam pattern at that level

Or they film you beating the thief, sorry that should be victim, senseless. The thief whose taxpayer funded lawyer comes out with a watertight excuse for why the innocent victim was beside your bike (he heard the alarm go off 😆) who gets acquitted despite a string of previous convictions whilst you get a prison sentence.

Celtic Tuning at Quintrell Downs Cornwall I recommend. They have dealers across the country and also mobile fitters (or at least they did) I used a local dealer for a remap and their main base for an emissions rollback when I was in the area and I would highly recommend them.

Or worse still (perhaps) to have the means to buy a new compliant vehicle or perhaps sons/daughters buy it for them only for them to find that they cannot operate or live with a games console on wheels, it would freak me out even at my age.

I bought the Mrs a 6 month old VRS hatch in race blue rather than wait in the end. It arrived yesterday from the dealer.

I'm so glad you chipped in with that final comment nta16.... I was starting to thing "how the F do I get a backup power supply?" Just to change a battery.... jeez. 🙂

I had a Bosch A 282H 11” 280 mm rear blade I’d bought for my previous Yeti lying around so thought I’d try it. The blade is the correct size but the cut out in the Kodiaq rear wiper arm to locate the blade locking button is now oblong , and a different design,and the button on the Bosch blade is square. So it looks like Skoda have the monopoly on rear blades at the moment.

Ah it’s a shame, I hope the estate is taken by your family member. If not, get in contact with me and I might take it off your hands.

Welcome! Great photos 👍

Thread is Rust around fuel filler door. Pinned in Citigo section and links and screen shots to Warranty, articles, and threads in other sections. Skoda UK are having a laugh about Bodywork inspections. The service books up till 2012 had the pages to fill in at Major / inspection services. Since then part of a Major service or extend scope, first at 3 years and each 2 years. But the Warranty does not say this is required in the T&C.s.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had small and larger engined British cars that are like bricks the gearing and power are soon eat up, didn't help with power-to-weight when I sat in the car. 😆

When my local independent garage swapped my battery they clipped on a battery pack with jump lead clips to the battery leads before they swapped the battery. No warnings on resetting things afterwards.

Sorry I meant downstream, between the filter and the carburettor is there any metal tubing? Good move re the secondary filter if there is a metal tube between the two, that way you can see where the debris is coming from.

Replace 2, keep the non-failed original onboard so you can swap it in for any other one that fails in future.

Sorry dude, mine went in boot lights. You should be able to find a pair on a well known auction site for around 10 or 12 quid. It's the same light/housing that does the door, glove box, boot, courtesy and footwell. So a search for any of these might be succesful, also if you have a look at one from your own glove box, or boot, you should see what they are supposed to look like. Good hunting bro

You shouldn’t’ve waited 2.5 years but you know that. You should construct an email, giving a précis of the issue, then in bullet point form, giving the dates and numbers of loss of use days you have experienced; ignore courtesy cars etc. because they are not the car you paid to drive. Call SUK and ask to speak to their Customer Quality Manager, Emmaline Bruce (how you “manage” the “quality” of “customers” I really don’t know!). Don’t take no for an answer, as they’re masters of dodging, delaying and deflecting. When you get to speak to her, or their nominated subordinate, follow-up with the email, including Bruce, and time bound it for a response with a solution (you want a new unit of course) so 5 working days should suffice.

@nta16 I was more referring to the actual process of changing a battery as it can be scary if you have not done it, you know the brown trouser moment when your dash lights up 'like an Xmas tree' I have not mentioned it because I thought you didn't believe me. On a separate note, I dare say that when a battery is nearing the end of it's life, and people don't notice the warning signs, they will maybe start seeing errors that you often describe as the multiple control units spit their dummy out, power steering is a hungry beast, and a dying battery might not quite supply enough power and steering stutters and/or puts on a warning lamp. I replaced my battery before it actually died, and 096AGM with over 7 years of use, for me it was noticing the stop/start off time was very short lived, as the SOC in battery was poor. I preferred to replace it rather than get stranded miles away from home. 100m was metres, as I was referring to a short journey 😉 Maybe metres has a capital 100M, but I think it has a small 100m iirc.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I certainly didn't want to imply I didn't believe you and really I should have thought that many would get their car battery very low before changing or for some realising how low the battery has got. Ties in with my warnings about the computers possibly playing up and giving, or not giving warnings even though the battery starts the car and the lights still seeming bright enough, possibly before this point though. Again this is why I favour using a battery charger to fully charge the battery as much as possible and preferably before the battery gets too low and certainly before it gets beyond rescue or convenient change rather than breakdowns and forced changed (appropriate or not). I now favour, after battery disconnect, turn the ignition on and press and hold down brake pedal as I always think computers need a bloody good booting and can actually benefit from it on many occasions. 😁 Sorry, I meant, a turn off 'n' on agen, not violence of any sort, tempting though it might be towards computers for some of us. The computer programs be intertwined (for the sake of a description) will have one thing leading on to another when the computers pick up something, or think they have sometimes so I'm totally with you and certainly agree that it's best to clear all error codes, at every opportunity, if its serious, real, it'll return soon enough anyway. I think we generally sign off the same song sheet but your voice is much sweeter, refined and sophisticated than mine. One thing I didn't quite follow, did you mean drive 100 miles or metres? Cheers.

I will when I can get over that bloke who said I need to go to Specsavers!

Yes, 0369 is available. Can PM you a link

£140 fitted ? you can buy a new fan for under £50 on Ebay. The intake to the heater fan is below the windscreen under the bonnet. I took the windscreen wipers off my car the other day and removed the panels under them to access the drain duct and I saw the fan heater intake I doubt very much the fan will come out through there. If the rear heated window isn't work I'd check the earth feed wire inside the rubber gaiter on the off side of the tailgate. I had to peel all the foam of the wire to find it was broken. As with the door wiring looms the cable insulation looses it's elasticity and the wire breaks because of all the flexing in the hinge area.

Yeah, the dealer told me, that recently factory have deleted many orders, and there are no specific dates. I'm starting to think that factory act like this on purpose, pushing back cars that was ordered long time ago, because it's much cheaper. Maybe Skoda hopes we will cancel the order. I'm currently waiting 15 months, and still no build date. I promised my self to wait and get this car, but never again buy Skoda or any VAG's brand.

Welcome to the forum. What is the top end of the budget and do you want one with a Service History of stuff all done and no need for you to spend on service items not carried out even if the car shows as having a Full Service History. That can be a history that shows stuff that might be outstanding so this requires you to budget for that work.

Software version 0369 is available, and clean your car! I can send link by private message.

Worth pointing out that on the 1.4TSI and 1.5TSi the water pump doees NOT need changing when the timing belt is changed - it's on the other end of those engines to the timing belt and in the 6 years I've been active on briskoda and owning Octavias I can only recall one member reporting water pump failure of those engines.

Realistically probably better thinking 12-14 months, and not 6-7 months per sales patter. You can always tell if salesman is telling you what you want to hear if you play with the argument and put a test scenario there way, something like saying : so you would be happy to knock 2% off price for every month beyond your highest estimate, if I signed today. Pause about 10 seconds then ask if would like to revise delivery estimate.

I would pay to have the car put in for the MOT and be prepared to lose that money if you walk away, or buy the car if there is nothing much. A buyer that is sure about the car they are selling should be fine with that. Maybe not so much if they know the MOT might show up issues and get a failure.

I had the pleasure of driving this at the weekend! (ps. No comments from police haters please - it's a job and someone has to do it. Remember this forum is just about the cars so keep it friendly please )