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Are you sure it's DQ381? 381 is meant for 4x4, vRS is FWD, so it should have 380. Anyway of course all of those numbers are given with some tolerance. As far as i know in reality DQ200 is ok up to 300Nm. You can increase that somewhat by increasing hydraulic pressure for clutch operation, as well as using torque limiter on 1st and 2nd. And this is why DSG remap should be done. Edit: Now i read your link. Interesting, didn't know 381 is AWD AND FWD. Always thought it's AWD only, and 380 is FWD only. Well, we learn whole life, and die stupid anyway

Hope your car is feeling better soon. Nice pad, I hope my room and the Kiwi sanctuary have been sorted

An electric charge point needs to make a handshake with the car before enabling charging. This is done using a J1772 module. This module doesnt have to transmit any vehicle specific data and in fact i dont believe chargers are capable of that kind of transmission either *yet* https://www.evwest.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=107

Here you go, what I found for you. Injector 4 should be Purple/Blue at T40a Pin 89 (verify with the other injectors/colour/pins)

I think you'll find the 12V feed is the same volour on all four, and comes from a fuse rather than the ECU. The wire colour of the switched return from each injector will be the same at injector connector and engine ECU as it's a direct run. Will confirm in a few minutes, with ECU pin number.

I call BS. There are thousands of chargepoints installed indoors in the UK. I personally can think of three or four places where they are installed in indoor car parks. Indoor chargepoints in public car parks are commonplace in Europe. This is an attempt by the developer to avoid having to install these chargepoints. I hope the planning condition is enforced.

The 12v accessory sockets in the Octavia are permanently live and directly connected to the battery via appropriate fuses. There are no relays or other switching electronics upstream so 'the canbus' cannot disable them. The only limit to charging would be the fuse, on the wiring diagram I have the lowest is rated at 20a which is unlikely to cause issues for most chargers.

My obsession started decades before when I read an article about a Lotus 7 with a twin cam lotus engine in it. For years I made regular trips to Caterham Cars when they were in their original building and tried to work out my budget. It turned out many years later that a close friend had a similar obsession - so a plan emerged that we would go halves on the purchase price and running costs - meeting early mornings at weekends for a quick blast and breakfast (or an event). Every 3 years or so we would swap for the next obsession - partying with maybe another £1500 each time having had 3 years of fun.

The 272 engine is the GPF flavored version. This came later to meet Euro6 standards. The 280 is the non-GPF version. The 220/280 come with the DSG-6 (DQ250) gearbox. Newer ones come with the DSG-7 (DQ381) gearbox. The 272 generally comes with DSG-7 (DQ381).

Just turn off interior monitoring and it should be Ok I think. I've done that in the past and not aware of an issue

Happy new year!! Recent photos catchup We've moved into our new home in Taranaki The Audi is now our daily driver Meri kirihimete By the river Dusty driveways And clean again Flash garage, or car parked in the lounge/office? Using the ur as a daily has been going well. It's driving nicely, and seems to be doing okay on fuel usage too. It's pretty practical especially since adding the roof rack. It has been very hot here over Christmas so the lack of aircon makes it a sometimes sweaty driving experience but it's kinda nice to go back to old-school windows-down driving. I've had no real issues but a few new trim rattles and squeaks have surfaced. I'm getting a slight suspension knock again so need to look at that. Warm starting can sometimes be a little tricky and it often catches then runs really lumpy for a few seconds as though one or two cylinders aren't firing. I'm on the hunt for some smaller wheels as I can't help feeling that on these country driveways and potholed roads that the 18s are shaking my car apart. I'd love a set of nice 16s but so far all I can find that are the correct fitment are coming in at 4-5 grand for a set and I just can's justify that right now with a newly built house to finish off. The cheapest, most sensible option is refurb the 15s and run wrongly-sized tyres so I'll pursue that when local businesses re-open after the break. Possibly related to this, possibly not is that I have developed cracks in my bodywork! This is very worrying and I will get it sorted ASAP. Sunroof on the driver side where it was cut for rust repairs Driver side, back of door sill

Car went in for it’s DSG service last week and the dealership informed me that they would also be doing an ECU software update. Anyone else had this carried out recently and any the wiser as to what the update is for? The car is a FL vRS TDI DSG and was last serviced about 9 months ago to give an idea of how recently the update has been released.

Cheers varooom, I have checked and I have: Software Train Version: MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0471T Software Version: H29.319.51_STD2Nav_EU Looks like that would be the thread to post the info in so will give that a try. Any others thoughts / advice welcome!

If I were to be picky, I wasn't sure about the headlight covers on the Zagato Fab to watch its progress though, and the skill of those involved. And of course the back story in relation to Harry 😎 Gaz

Well, for some reason didn't work for me

Much as I love Harry's Zagato, especially in that colour, when he had it next to the rally Fulvia, I think I prefer the standard shape. Who am I kidding, i'd be thrilled to bits to own either

Looks like it Varoom, it's not doing all the time, just on startup, I can put up with that until I can get it sorted.

I've read your graph wrong. Perhaps my dpf isn't at 40g yet? Let's hope it's retrievable! Best. Blue.

Yes of course, no probs at all. Like I said it's been run for a while (4months) with light on/off (but been on permanent for 2 days) and only giving me limp mode last few days. Took your advice and not run her from now on and mates mate agreed with your advice. I'm currently investigating how to manually clear dpf in order that I can salvage it (assuming it's kuput) so I'll get back to you on the outcome of that also (some differing advice from calling out the professional cleaners to injecting solution through port and allowing to soak). Thanks again - I'll be in touch (maybe take couple of weeks though!) Best - blue.

I had the exact same problem on my 2015 octavia 1.8tsi, and after taking the heater matrix out for a flush with no effect and checking and removing the silica bag I found the answer on another thread here. After changing the magnetic valve the car feels completely new, heat comes out of the vents after just 1min of driving instead of 20min. On a sidenote, I almost sent back the part that fixed it because there were two different magnetic valves there, and one of them are different that the one in the thread. But after looking for a second time I found the proper one. 😄😄

Ohh, thanks for info 👍 I repose the problem in mk3 section thanks for letting me know fuse all good 🤗

Hi @Mogwad - from your profile and pictures it looks like you have a mk3 Octavia but this thread is in the mk1 section. The first thing to check would be the fuses. If it's not that then try having a search in the mk3 section and if the search doesn't show anything up then start a new thread in that section.

Finally its appeared on UK radar ... but with a parcel damaged note , if I could refuse it now I would , its been nothing but excuses from the word go ! Regards Greg

Yes i know that i asked you for a MIB2 Amundsen, but i have also a O3 2014 with MIB1 Columbus, i have the latest SW, but not the latest maps

Welcome to the forum. Luckily there are Local Garages used by Local People and ran by Local People still. So go to your local garage and speak to them.

I live on an estate of new builds and there is only one house that has an EV charge point - which the owners fitted after moving in because they have an EV. So it is most definitely NOT compulsory for new build homes to have EV chargers.

I know, that's why I replied only about HBA.

Well, thanks everybody, seems I'm quite dumb. You were co.oletly right, the lights can be switched off independently on the menu:

Cheers peps, great help ta!! 😉

Hello Thomas Gaz

This is what happens when you write cheques you can't afford. It's a problem of their own making, I have no sympathy for them.

Thanks again. I’ve fitted a new sensor and now have a sensible value for measured soot. About 20mg difference from the calculated now but that seems typical enough. I’ll keep a check on it and see if the regen frequency changes at all. sensor replacement came from Darkside developments website as they had a genuine sensor advertised at about £35 posted.

Find the leuchte channel for number plate lights in the bcm 09, simply adjust lasttyp to ‘LED general’ and you won’t get any more errors

Update the laser tool is not suitable. The 10 x 1.0 threads are unnecessarily broad for a reamer tool, and I was not going to get the tap and die set out on a £60 tool. Atm trying to get a return. Glow plugs fitted, no fault code and onto next issue.

If i see correctly you got roughly 80Nm more than stock. I would say DSG remap should help to extend clutch and gearbox lifespan. To some extent, yes. Part of DSG remap is setting torque limiter on lower gears. It's different all over Europe. 2 years is minimum you can get, and this is what you get also in Poland. You can extend it. However for example Seat had 5 years of warranty in Poland for many years now, while in UK it was 2 or 3 years.

Mine r not real - i improvised with door edge strip protection. It's an L-shaped plastic adhesive, with a chrome finish, sourced from AliExpress. Hence no drilling or screwing. They've been on for 3+ years now and still solid, with no signs of wear. I used the same with side door protectors, to give the L&K touch.

I used this kit: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353801405857 Piggy-back adaptors for both size fuse are included.

If you look at the post titled 'How to code official towbar electrics' in this thread (https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/page/2/), you can see exactly what I did and meant when I said "code into the car". Ah, I haven't driven the car out of the garage yet, so I'll certainly have to try that tomorrow then! My "dedicated wiring kit" is indeed one that connects into the existing loom, including the can bus wires. It is not a bypass relay.

As toot said, £4 is home charging before leaving and after back to similar percentage. Not including AC charging near the museum. That translates to 53.3 kWh, out of 80 kWh used. Let's be honest, it would be foolish to charge at home and NOT get on time-of-use tariffs if at all possible. Currently best deal is 10p/kWh EV tariff with compatible car/charger, or 12p/kWh without.

Thanks. AG Falco

Hello, I replaced my dance unit with a JVC KW-DB92BT. The improvement in sound quality was a lot. It also has DAB radio and a cd player. These units seem to be getting hard to get. The fitting instructions were fairly poor but managed to get it going in the end. It needs a wiring kit to fit the new unit to the old wiring and also a new surround so that it fits the bigger hole that the dance unit took. The dab aerial sticks on the windscreen about half way down the A pillar. I didn't replace the speakers they seem fine.

Maybe a control unit failure (BCM module)

Just had a quick look for hatchback/sedan part numbers: - 5E5 945 111 and 5E5 945 112 looks to be a pre-FL with halogen bulbs - 5E5 945 111A and 5E5 945 112A looks to be a pre-FL with LED brake/tail - 5E5 945 111B and 5E5 945 112B looks to be a FL (low functionality) with LED brake/tail - 5E5 945 711(A?) and 5E5 945 712(A?) looks to be FL (high functionality) with LED brake/tail Not sure what the FL (high functionality) 71x vs 71xA is about, one site suggested LHD/RHD... The pre-FL 2015 brochure mentions the double C shape: The FL 2017 brochure only mentions the 'high' functionally clusters in detail with a single C shape: I'm 99% sure it's impossible to disable one C shape using VCDS on the pre-FL LED clusters as the wiring diagrams only show a single wire controlling both

I have had a very young fuel hose look very old and dodgy, though on a petrol car. It was sourced at a local motor factors under two years ago during an engine change, when I couldn't get the original to reseal at one end. I spotted it looking cracked and horrible this summer, only 18 months after it was fitted. Will nip out and get fresh piccies to compare with ones taken then. I 'kinda' convinced myself that it was just the outer layer, and that it wasn't in any great danger of leaking. Pic from summer:

The Ethanol content in Diesel fuel I believe has risen considerably since your vehicle was manufactured, perhaps others ca confirm. It is unrealistic to expect any fuel hose to last 30 years even without the additional Ethanol, granted many will but many wont hence the MTBF measure (mean time between failure) 7 years is not that premature, all cars will have had a few items fail in that time which go on for years on other vehicles, all of them would warrant someone (without an understanding of MTBF) saying "this should not fail at this age/mileage", you read it pretty much every day on this forum. Thanks for the heads up though, I had not heard of it before, yours might be the first of many, I will give all mine a precautionary squeeze at each oil change.

And, just to add to the confusion: "Electric car charge points dropped from £40m Preston complex because they 'aren't safe'" https://www.lancs.live/news/lancashire-news/electric-car-charge-points-dropped-25863523

'Intelligent Headlights' are 'MATRIX' headlights, as far as i know, call them and have them. @automassYour car does not have MATRIX headlights doesit?

There are no wires to be seen on close inspection, simply because the heated windscreen for Octavia (and not only) uses a foil - metallic coating. All you should be able to see is a colored reflection when looking at the car from outside, in the proper light. The reflection is clearly different compared to the side windows, don't really know how to describe it; it is slightly blue-violet-ish - have a look at the picture. Another way to check for heated windscreen is to look for a lighter rectangular-patch on the dark areas left and right of the rear-view mirror. For heated windscreens those two patches are missing the metallic layer to avoid attenuation of electromagnetic waves - checkout the 2nd picture.

The only way you would be able to know what this was for would be to get hold of the TPI documents, and even then, you might have 3-4 documents for various engine complaints possibly.

Why not use genuine ones and get the car coded to suit? I believe the part number is 000052110