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Sometimes it can be a wheel bearing over heating or a brake caliper not releasing and the wheel gets hot and the tyres pressure changes. So you check the pressures later or when cold and they are OK. If you can stop and feel if the wheel is hot and check the tyre pressure then you can sometimes find that to be the issue, and check the pressure on the opposite side.

Indirect TPMS uses the ABS wheel speed sensors, if one of these were failing I'd expect lots and lots of warnings as many systems rely on their data. If the system keeps going off, it might be worth checking all four tyres are correctly balanced, the alloys are true and there is no damage to the tyres. Any of these could cause issues. Sometimes, it can just be the road surface that will trigger it but it's rare

Colouful sunset this evening and Jupiter very prominent...........

As above, and note that a Carlos Fandango Megagrip Drift may be a different diameter to a Woosung Dark Spin, even if they're both declared as, say 235/35R17Z

Bugger.

I would like to thank you toot for all your advice and help....thanks

I'm not saying it was a Skoda main stealership, but it sounds very much like they have wound all the adjustment onto one track rod and off the other. I'll bet that if you measure them the LH one is longer than the RH.

Oh that eco mode - changes up early and lower revs putting more strain on bottom end of engine, maybe that translates to different stresses through the gearbox shafts? Could speculate all day tbh. Think it’s perfectly fine for cruising/flowing along, I tend to flick it to sport when getting to junctions so the car responds in a decent gear and then back to E/D afterwards.

Welcome. Common, so best go back and ask the manager of the place to put someone competent on the car to correct what the last person did wrong.

Might be worth having a look at the level sensors, the little bars which connect the sensor to the suspension have been known to fail on other models. The could potentially cause the headlight aim to drop with no warnings show to the driver.

Could be a level sensor or something else. Ideally you should get it scanned for fault codes with VCDS or similar to give some pointers 👍

I haven't had my Yeti long but, had an issue with running cool and temp guage rarley moving. (symptoms) Running with thermostat stuck open. A work colleague had a similar issue with a DSG equipped Golf. He told me that DSG cars have a second thermostat in the gearbox cooling system. He suggested i start there to see if it fixes the problem before commiting to a full thermostat replacement. 20 mins and £20! sorted. It is located on the right side of the engine as you look at it, next to the DSG oil cooler, which is under the air filter box.

Hi All Well we got to the bottom of the problem ! As Breezy Pete have me a really good line up ! We went for the ABS pump connector and it had 12v on both pin 7 and pin 25 When we tested both with a H7 bulb we found that 25 would not light the bulb properly - So the deduction from that was the loom had broken down - Although there was 12v it could not carry the current required ! We replaced a dodgy section and all is now well again The Fabia is now of an age where these problems will start to surface die to degraded looms. Lads Thanks a million for your help - Again this forum has saved the day and got me another NCT 👍

Yes it's now compressing...

Brilliant - has fixed my issues! Thanks!

Maybe. I'm not complaining.

My bad, sorry. Wouldn't worry about either to be honest, see if they fail next year, then do something.

You do not mention, but are you pressing the set button till it bleeps after you’ve checked the pressures?

Just got past 10mins 30-40mph no flashing then I used the tiptronic drop down a gear then back up & flashing started again. If turn car back on again the flashing is gone (temporarily again), gear changes all smooth with no juddering. Oil about 70c after 10mins (in this cold weather)

As up thread, this is normal for a diesel engine, even in a brand new delivery miles car.

You're in good company SD - lots of us enjoy peeling stickers off after inserting the battery. It's good practice! Gaz

Thanks to whoever suggested removing the battery sticker (doh!!) - this worked for me. My local Skoda dealer service department could only suggest that they had superior batteries that they could fit and that "many customers find that their new batteries don't work, but one fitted by us does. That will be £6 per battery if you would like to pop by" ! Even when I protested that a brand new duracell extra-life battery recently bought from a busy supermarket was highly unlikely to be worse than one supplied by Skoda they just repeated the line again that they had access to superior batteries! I'm glad I came here and found a simple solution that didn't involve me exchanging my absolutely fine (albeit stickered) battery for a Skoda supplied one at three or more times the price!

Just come off the phone to TP Services .......spoke to a really helpful man who is sending me all the info and history on the car. He checked if cam belt had been done and it has at 95,000 miles 😅 so that saves me a few bob. He said the car was owned by a upholstery firm and the car only traveled up and down the motorway which would explain the high mileage.

Thanks for your reply, appreciated. The car does have Stop/Start, Im wondering if ex-owner/garage he bought car off, replaced old duff battery it with this lead acid battery, to sell car. The new one is EFB stop/start The £80 was to just recode the new one his mate put in, new battery cost him £120.

Well it was -4 this morning and traveled my usual route to work having previously filled up with 99 ron momentum and my car is running very smoothly at lower speeds whilst cold. So on conclusion my car runs better at all temperatures using higher octane fuel. I'd advise anyone whom is having cold running issues with the 1.5t engine to try some higher octane fuel.

It’s speculative as to whether the OP’s quote was making that point, but higher torque at lower revs has always been associated with more stress on the bottom end - whether it’s ‘too much’ and the car changes gear is trusted to be down to VAGs design. I’m not questioning whether that’s set at the right point or not is not for me to say. But as I said right at the start it’s pointless pontificating over detail-less hearsay

THANK YOU SO MUCH 🍻🍻🍻

These mirror switches on at least same/similar 6R/6C VW Polo, do feel quite nasty when rotating to the heater position, they, for me, have never filled me with confidence that they work and will remain working, but at 7.5 years and 42K miles, so far so good.

There are more than 3 possibilities, numbers 2 and 3 are the most probable.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda - Price: EUR 3.00 (Approximately£2.66) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 PDF file returned very fast.

Welcome. It certainly is asked all the time, every winter in almost every section. Do as people have had to for decades. You might need to open the window a bit when you are trying to clear the front screen when starting. Try the different settings, get the blower working fast. Auto might not be the best setting, or re-cyle interior air. Try which setting works, different cold / moisture might require different settings and different in each car. So use the AC all the time it works when driving, which is when a few degrees above freezing. Put in rubber mats in winter. Keep the inside as dry as possible. Make sure to open the doors, including the passenger one if no passenger and see the water is draining from them. Put a damp trap in the boot and one in the car. 4 for £4 in ASDA or at other retailers. Ot you get reusable / microwave heat ones etc.

thank you again, yes i have a had a poke about although that's fairly limited given the space, i didn't start dismantling. The wiring and vac hose were fine as far as i was able to see. As above I read out the measured soot value with the engine running also and had the sensor connector on and off and this wasn't affecting the reading. I did think it was odd that the read value didn't disappear but it was storing a fault code when i did unplug it. I think given that the value it gives is still sensitive to the soot load then the sensors sensitivity is there, but there is the big lump of added resistance making it a high reading. Given that i saw a good value initially before the car was started with the new sensor i think i will try the newer revised one. It could be that this old sensor gave up as soon as it was heated up the first time the car was used. its only a theory of course!

I had the OCU (Onboard Communications Unit) replaced - this is what connects the Car to the Skoda servers to provide the data for licensed features every time the car is switched on. It thereby give's functionality to SOS, Navigation, Users profiles etc. I may be wrong but I believe the ‘Head’ unit is the 10” display screen under the driver’s mirror. I did not have this replaced. My car retained all updates up to and including 1896 but still had all the start up server issues including Pop Pop SOS. Once the OCU was replaced my system became stable and has remained so. So the issue for my car was not the Head Unit but the OCU which sits behind the drivers display in front of the steering wheel.

I will probarbly change the gearbox oil once a year and 3/4 for engine ....If I stay on Private Hire! I came over from been a black cab driver because the new LEVC hybrid cabs are too much money and are not really productive enough. PCP £230 a week HP £300 a week over 60 months

I can't remember where I read it but they said it wasn't good for the gearbox...mine is a 6 speed DSG. I like it in eco its more laid back and it suits my daily driving been a taxi driver and if I ever need to put my foot down I just pull the lever back into S and off I go

Welcome. ? Have you checked the dip stick and the oil level now. Or since the oil and filter service? If the oil and filter you or whoever fitted is correct and the oil is at the right level checked cold, then correct when the oil is up to temperature then there might be a fault with the sensor. ? What engine does your Fabia have?

BMW do good service plans that cover schedules, Skoda have no idea what the schedules, guidelines, recommendations are and cars with Full Service Histories that are Fleet cars might have very little done. Private owners might be told loads needs doing. Important stuff, like DSG, VAQ, Haldex oil changes, filter changes all a mystery to them. Best find a good independent that does what needs doing when it should be done, and done properly, not just ticks in boxes.

You can make an account on erWin Skoda and pay for 1hr access to download the build codes for the car, and all the wiring diagrams. In a single hour you can download the full Skoda range, should you need.

Sounds like borrowed time to me!

Absolutely no chance. Customer service here is not exactly outstanding but the dealer knows that if my battery fails in the near future they will have to replace it. That is a fight for another day ..

For long life oil I would recommend you don't give the car the beans until up to temperature (applies to anyone really) and don't let the car idle much at all. You will save oil life and diesel if you follow that.

10 months later and I sat in a car park this morning and had problems stopping the engine so when I got home it was time to give it a go... Thanks to all that provided photos and tips so far - I've taken a few more to fill in any gaps. First of all this is the (blurred) view from underneath the steering column showing the torx screw to undo Once that's done drop the steering column to the lowest possible position and pull out the wheel as close to yourself as possible. Leave the adjustment leaver down otherwise it gets in the way later... Now pull the top cover towards you a little until you can grasp it and then lever it up out of the way. I didn't try detaching it at the back and just propped it up. At this point I started the engine when I realised I had to turn the wheel. First of all I turned the wheel a quarter turn left so that I could get to the left-hand screw. This is quite fiddly to extract once loose as there's not quite enough room to get the screw out without tilting it sideways and I lost it into the bottom case. Turn the wheel to the right to access the other screw and repeat. Strangely I found the access to the screw uneven as if the shroud wasn't symmetrical. At this point the lower shroud can be gently wiggle downwards - don't pull it too much as the wires are (obviously) attached to the stop/start button. I found that carefully rotating the shroud around gave me better access to the connectors. The aerial connector has a clip that needs pressing in with a small screwdriver in order for it to be disconnected. The switch connector clip sits under the red arrow - press this down towards the front of the switch with a small screwdriver and gently pull the wire connector in the direction of the yellow arrow. At this point I took the shroud into the house to continue, To remove the switch from the shroud insert a small screwdriver down the side of the two metal clips and press the clips in. I found that I could do one clip at a time by gently holding the switch to one side. Then push the switch out from behind. (No picture for this one) The metal clips need removing from the switch. They have small locking tabs in the middle that need levering out a little. I used a screwdriver in the hole at the top of the clip to push it out. You may want to stab yourself in the hand with said screwdriver whilst undertaking the manoeuvre... As others have noted the label needs peeling back a little to reveal the fourth plastic locking tab. I also used a couple of pins to hold two of the tabs open whilst popping out the other two. At this point I stabbed myself with the pins and the switch fell apart. With the top removed and the components recovered the switch should look like this - note orientation of the circuit board. When disassembled (and kept in the same orientation) it looks like this: I found that the metal contacts on the circuit board were clean and the dirt was on the blue contact pads in the rubber. I used isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud to clean all the parts. Reassembling the switch is the reverse of the above though note that once the metal clips are in place the locking tabs will need pushing back into position again. Once the switch is back in the lower shroud and connected back up it's just a case of jiggling to have it fit around the stalks. Though there appear to be clips at the back of it they don't seem to engage with anything. With the engine on again the two screws next to the steering wheel can be reinserted. They have captive nuts behind them and I needed to wiggle to line them up. To fit the top shroud look closely at the back - the two circled areas have a hook on the bottom shroud that act like hinges when clipping the top back in. This then helps line everything up to be clipped back together and the lower torx screw to be put back. My ignition button is like new again.

New plate

I'm amazed that anybody would desire surely the least desirable and in the right conditions dangerous quirks of a traditional automatic gearbox. From what I have read it makes manouevring slowly easier, is it really that hard to modulate the throttle or is it another skill that has been lost like keeping a constant speed or distance from the car in front, switching between dipped and main beam, using windscreen wipers when needed because the gadgets now take care of it? If the car jerks while you are manoeuvring slowly or you cannot control the speed can you not use both pedals, after all that is what you do insinctively in a manual vehicle modulatig both the throttle and clutch?

Because the VAG instruction is to remove them as they are now obsolete plus if removed it stops customers driving me mad asking if I have removed them, far too many tinterweb experts these days. The bag in the video had split but to me it still looked pretty full.

Most Bilsteins have bump stops built in so you don't need the standard stuff as well. Which ones do you have?

Mod completed. Cloned speedo arrived just in time for Christmas Having a speedo and Radio unit from the same donor car made a job much more easier. I wont be complaining that's NOT a maxidot instrumant cluster. I am so pleased with the outcome!! 😏 This would not be possible without @maxychat and @RickB directing me to The Guy in the Netharlands! Thank You!!

Bit of a summary, for those who might be interested in doing a similar mod. First of all, You will need a FL radio. Ideally a SWING radio as it has a bluetooth connectivity - BLUES - doesn't so choose carefully. Once You have it, NEW 52-pin quadlock connector will be required. Available on Ali. The best is to look for DIY kit rather than adapter, as some ready made adapters DO NOT WORK! And there is a VERY limited space behind factory radios! You have been warned re-wire Your existing connector, see the above diagram (to make it clearer I have removed unecessary items), plug it in and... the most complicated part - try to find somebody to disable Component Protection for You. I have visited 7. yes SEVEN, so called independent specialists around my area and they all were unable to do so. Neverthless, if You did your wiring right, Your radio will work - just some features wont be accessible/available until you will find THE right guy to assist You with CP removal. I went step ahead, and I purchased FL speedometer from the same vehicle I got radio from (NOT a maxidot) which allegedly may help with CP removal. For complete integration of Your NEW FL radio unit, You will also require a in-Car microphone 🤔 Ive tried couple of aftermarket in-car microphones, but they would not work with the previously trialed Android Head Unit nor with genuine radio, so Ive decided to go full OEM by purchasing 3BD035711 - it worked like a charm. Once You got Your radio sorted You may consider adding VAG OEM Smartphone holder with USB as the PID/Garmin/Navigon unit no longer works with Your new radio 😛 Below list will ONLY work with those vehicles which had PID installed previously, as apparently, there is an additional metal bracket inside the dash which vehicles without PID simply dont have. If you have a cut out in Your dash for PID/Smartphone holder with blanking clip-on insert - You are OK. If there is NOT - this retrofit wont be available for Your car - at least not that easily. so, once You replaced Your radio, and removed Component Protection, and You want to replace Your NOT WORKING PID wih Smartphone Holder with USB port, You will need following: (1) 1S0035935 B - base plate for the FL Smartphone Holder (see notes below), (2) 5Q0035726N - USB connector, (3) N10592102 - 2x M4 x14 crews (if You had a PID installed before use the old screws), (4) 5G0035222 - USB & AUX wiring harness (IMPORTANT: see notes in the text below), (5) 1ST051435B - complete Smartphine holder as a kit or available as two separate items: A. 1S0035936D - bottom part for the Mobile Holder, B. 1S0051435D - Upper Part for the Mobile Holder, (6*) 1S0 035 491 - blanking plate - optional. NOTES: (1) If You are lucky, You may be able to find baseplate already with USB connector. A lot of breakers they sell it as ONE part. Be VERY vigilant as some breakers/dismantlers may try to sell a PID baseplate under this part number, look closely at the photos and read the description!! (3) it doesnt have to be OEM screw, as long bolt's head fits in to the recess on the base plate - You will be fine. (5) avoid cheap copies from ali or ebay!! USB cable needs to look like a coaxial cable NOT like normal wire - see photo. Otherwise, it may not work at least it would NOT work in my case and Ive tried at least two different ones. If You will decide to use only USB part of the wiring loom, Black plug is not needed as this is for Your additional AUX port. therefore - 4-wires from the green 12-pin connector can be removed. Green 12-pin connector will be ONLY used to provide additional voltage to the USB port. This part of the write up is for those, whos vehicles were not fitted with PID's and where internal bracket nor cut-out may not be present. As the supplied wiring loom is very long, it is possible to add USB port as well additional AUX port next to Your cigarette lighter down at Your center console using 1S0863617B (NOTE: part 5Q0035726N is still required), buttons can be replaced or blanked or, if Your imagination and Your DIY skills allows it, there is so much wire supplied that You could install it in Your arm rest Some of the reference material was taken from HERE thanks to @danikd for pointing me there. The rest was by trial and error. My MOD is still in progress, @maxychat & @RickB Ive just posted my speedo to The Guru in the Netherlands. I shall return, once will have more to report...

Update today... I took the car to BTG Performance in Newcastle to get its alignment done and more interestingly to complete a rolling road session to check how it was truly performing with a DTUK tuning box fitted. I had always fitted the box as a sort of stop gap when I first picked up the car and I have never been satisfied with how it has performed. There's always felt like a flat spot or a dip mid-RPM and its constantly done my head in. The car ran four runs on the dyno with tuning box and the results came back as expected - it was nowhere near the acclaimed figures, putting down 209bhp and 490NM; the torque figure to be fair is close to quoted peak DTUK quote. So tuning box is out! and... Revo stage 1 installed. I'm surprised with how well the car actually took to the tune 231bhp / 516Nm on the dyno. Here's an overlay comparing the power curve of both the tuning box and Revo. (Just to point out I never expected the tuning box to peak at the figure quoted online, however its putting out less that their multimap power box (225ps) let alone their ultimate (240ps)...) I haven't driven the car much so my review of the new tune will be brief. It is night and day ! Pick up is much quicker and from third gear the car pulls and pulls strong and consistent, the main thing is that where the tuning box would feel like it's run out of steam the car now just keeps going much further into towards the top end. Just a final one to say how good BTG were, their service was spot on!