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The horns are in the top centre grill so wouldn’t effect this. my thoughts on this is (I’m not 100%, just a theory) for certain vehicles classified as high temperature climates they are often given a second radiator located in the wheel arch, this is probably the exhaust for the air that would pass through that radiator if it was to be fitted. ill look into it more at the weekend and see if the parts list any variants. EDIT: As suspected - Additional cooler with PR code 8D4/8D5/8D6/8D7 - 4 and 5 relate to performance reasons (possibly endurance use or police use), 6 and 7 relate to hot climate use. Left wheel arch is for secondary cooler - right wheel arch is for parking heater/webasto

When the Universe is cold and dead, the last 1.9PD will finally stop running 😆

Pleasant sunset this evening and very thick ice at Rufford Abbey lake........

Thanks Varooom, that link is a great help, explains exactly what components contribute to the system. I've got a laptop working, and downloaded VCDS. Just thought it was a long shot, but I had a 2002 A6 All Road years ago and remember buying a RossTech adapter for it. Didn't hold much hope, but dug it out the garage and it works! It's a HEX-USB+Can. Also found an old K-line adapter, can't even remember what I got that for. I've connected the car up and tested the ports, it's all good to go. I'll have a set-to with it tomorrow and see what's going on. Thanks for your support so far!

Now for the fun part ….. getting the seal back on the piston and back in the calliper

That’s normal . Most vw branded cars are like this especially after 2013

@WillRB Maybe Skoda should reimburse you the cost of dry cleaning your underwear. It might be an idea to invest in a smart charger if you are doing only these 5 mile journeys, you are not really putting back enough juice into the battery (running lights/rear window defrost etc) If your work commute is short, then you probably should charge the battery in full on weekends, every week without fail. If you have a garage then even better (if it fits) as you can leave it safely. Look into getting a CTEK charger or equivalent, just make sure it has AGM charge cycle as one of it's programs.

For those who have been around a bit may remember my DIY camper build: Well I used that for a fair few years then as life changes it wasn't getting used as much, so I sold it (tidy profit). Fast forward a few years, Covid, divorce, relocation and I felt like the camping itch was back. So after discussing with my partner we decided to have a look about. And this is the result.. No self build this time, shooting for a built one. Needs a little 'modernization' as a lot of campers/caravans do, but it has all the things we need. Rock'n'roll bed, fridge, sink, oven, storage a plenty. Clever use of space being a short wheel base, but fine for the two of us and the doggo. A good scrub up, some new curtains, and maybe get the furnishings re-upholstered and I'll be more than happy.

@mrlittle I'm afraid file system in your unit is corrupted - such behavior is a typical symptom of it. Unfortunately, in such cases SW upgrade or downgrade is NOT possible - at least I have never been able to have it done. Assuming I'm right, you have two options: 1. replace the unit with same type - remove components protection and reactivate FEC/SWaP codes by Skoda dealer 2. retrofit MIB2 unit - such units can be hacked so on one hand you spend more money on new parts but you don't have to pay Skoda dealer for his services I'm really sorry but this is always a risk when running SW upgrade 😞

Only basic, but did some quick and dirty data logging. RPM over initial 30s cold startup (slightly lower Voltage as I was setting up with engine off of course - was 12.3V on meter) Battery Voltage over the first 30s after cold start (the lower Voltage when cranking was to be expected as it took time to setup datalogging, the droop at 15s was heated screen going on) I recorded about 3 minutes of data, that was over 14 Volts, as the heated screens were on, and the Voltage didn't drop lower than this.

They’re pressed in / picked out. No glue is used at all. I’ve broken a few on removal as they were stuck tight.

Throw it back; anything else I was going to say was about diagnosing a fuel leak into the oil system. Given the stated history, "don't buy trouble!!"

If it has been repaired at least they used a new bonnet, and painted it like the factory does ! Run the reg number through hpi or car vertical. I just bought an Octavia 3, and looked at about 4 others seriously before choosing the one I got. Found previous cat N report on one and mileage discrepancy on another. You get 2 reports for about £15 https://www.carvertical.com/gb Edit : I used a discount code from a YouTube channel I watch, salvage rebuilds uk code SR10 gets 10% off.

Wonder if you can remove and inspect/clean the EGR unit to try and prevent failure Should have done my research and got a PD! 😅

They are great cars. I do also have a 1.9PD octy 2 on nearly 260k. They are pretty bulletproof

I replaced the EGR at a VAG specialist and I also had to replace the turbo. I drove on it after it went into limp mode quite a few miles. Cost about to £1700 to change both. I believe the EGR alone is about £700

The EGR is needed for the DPF regeneration process, so don't delete unless you want to create issues. Speaking of DPF, yes the EA189 recall seems to increase the regens, but if you make sure to use the correct low oil ash content oil, then you should in theory make it to about 200k give or take as that's the rough end of life mileage.

Aye thanks for that J.R. - I didn't take a photo of the damaged cable - It was chafed open and the conductor was exposed and probably over time and damp the conductor went "green" The choccy block was a temporary fix which is now permanent. The whole loom has been all re wrapped and some flexible trunking put on so its looking decent now ! I was told in the past that vibration would eventually break solder joints and to use connectors - This came from a tractor mechanic ...! Ive done a right bit of soldering over the years on cars and never had a problem with breakage or dry joints. A meter is a fair enough way of testing but as it only draws micro amps it wont draw sufficient current to expose a cable that is broken down ! No hiding place from a H7 bulb as it will draw around 5A. Just be mindful of which section you are testing as if its connected to the body control module you could damage it - It was the main feed from the battery in my case so this test Id say given the age of the cars now we will see a few age related issues like this starting to surface !! Thanks again lads for pointing me in the right direction 👍

Quick update Drove to work, only about a 5 min journey car went absolutely mad... Error with brake assist, traffic sign assist, and the head unit activated component lock and nothing electrical was working really, car still started and drove as if nothing was wrong. as soon as I turned the car off with the key still in the ignition the personalisation colour came back on the head unit and I was like wait!!! I turned the ignition on and every error was gone and a new Low 12v battery symbol was displayed for the first time. after starting the car and letting the car run for a min the 12v error message went and the component lock was lifted. Why could it not have said this in the first place lol. oh well at least I know now it's the battery that was low. took it on a good drive and all is normal now so we should be ok for now. hope this brings hope for anyone experiencing something similar!!!

Finally managed to remember to take the tripod with us and stopped off for a couple of Astrophotography shots on the way home🔭📷 PXL_20230118_183503054.NIGHT.mp4

If you are reading this post do not despair! The horrible burning smell coming from your new diesel car is OK. When you stop and turn the engine off and the fan stays on and the engine seems to be super hot, the car is OK. The above are clear signs of an active DPF regeneration and is normal for your new diesel Skoda car. To comply with the latest emission levels diesels have to capture the large soot particles and burn them up into smaller particles which are kept in the DPF, this process is called regeneration. A lot of regenerations take place during normal driving where the exhaust is hot enough to burn the soot in the DPF and are unnoticed and are known as passive regeneration. When the temperature in the DPF is not hot enough for an passive regeneration, the ECU injects diesel into the DPF which burns up the soot and is known as an active regeneration. When you stop the car part way through an active regeneration, often the car smells like it's burning and the engine fan will stay on to cool the car. Mods could you please edit this thread (if needed) and make it a sticky or just delete, thanks

Yes, if you are interested pls contact me on PM

I believe Skoda delaer will cost you much more than 40€... at least twice as much... Yes, 350€ for plug and play for all to change to MIB2 Bolero

Glove box unit model 5E0035840x where x is a letter A, B, C etc. This is MIB1 unit. If you would like to get MIB2 then you shoul dget 5Q0035840x (x - same as bove) but in this case you must also replace the display unit and, if you want to have new features, e.g. SmartLink enabled, have the unit hacked.

You will surely be fitting tyres that keep the circumference / total diameter the same be the wheels 16" or 18". For sure the comfort will change and the risk from potholes. Remember to let your insurance know that you made your car more desirable to thieves, or maybe not as they know about bad roads.

Dunno. Hopefully this bumpy might elicit a response or two from those in the know!

This happens with (removed the word “all” to keep Toot happy 🤪) LED headlamp units unfortunately and isn’t an issue only to Skoda. My mk7.5 GTi PP had it, my mk3 VRS before it. LED creates no heat to get rid of the condensation. Mine went away in direct sunlight the other day but this cold snap in UK has meant it’s returned, as mentioned perfect conditions right now for it.

Think there is a lip on the dust seal that fits into a groove in the caliper. It's most likely stuck and might get mangled trying to remove it. You can get new ones.

Thanks. That is what I thought. I stuck 40 psi in it when I had it out the other week but when I got the VIN decoded it said Space saver and with it having the yellow stickers on it I thought I had better make sure. And what's wrong with Fifers? I am a Fifer, born and bred. 🙂

its a 225/40 r18 from the side wall visible. so.... 90mm ish sidewall? thin but not a ruber band compared to some tyres ive seen..

I mean fingers crossed haha, you'll know it's fixed if there's no video

Hopefully trying to demonstrate the problem with cure the problem. 😄

no not till now, that can i test later. the Sd card works because theres a audio file which can be played on the media player but alle three udate things are grey with an fat32 formatted 32Gb SDHC card

Some information extracted from the union newspaper: According to the newspaper, they produced 5748 cars on the M13 Line (4276 Octavia and 1472 Enyaq). They expect to keep up that speed in the coming week. They still have issues with battery production for PHEV an EV models. They also reduced production for DQ200 Transmissions. Those are used in 1.5 TSI vehicles. It seems like the situation is improving currently, but they still have some major issues. Also no word about the unfinished cars they produced since October.

I'm in Hampshire UK - the outside temperature would indeed have been low single digit (probably colder with wind chill). The temperatures were fluctuating - at one stage -0.5C, then 0C, 1 C etc. I am not sure what a Maxidot display is, so I can't say if I have it or not. I will try the toggle today, because it may be that the mechanic toggled it when the works were happening.

He really should look for one with the relevant VAG approval number, they call it "mid SAPS" but what does that really mean? It is not low SAPS which the VAG approval requires. I shot myself in the foot buying 20L of Mannol oil which was described as low SAPS by the seller but it does not say anything other than suitable for post combustion treatments, it does not mention SAPS at all on the packaging or the Mannol specifications, it's all very wooly and intended to mislead and I fell for it. I am using it for now but keeping a close eye on the DPF differential pressure readings.

Thank you very much man ,i appreciate that!

Yup, and I hate the online manual... it does my head in (thankfully my older car has booklet!)

Some owners say it affected the drivability and maybe consumption of the car post fix. Some also say the car is performing DPF regens more often. That said I have a 2011 170CR superb and the EGR went without the fix being applied.

You might want to update your profile from year 2009 to 2015.

If you wanna wait a week or two for it to arrive, not OE quality either.

Colouful sunset this evening and Jupiter very prominent...........

If you shake an EFB ( Enhanced Flooded Battery ) you WILL hear the liquid sloshing around. EFB type batteries are fitted to the Fabia III's AGM ( Absorbent Glass Mat ) don't slosh around. ( Haven't seen one fitted to a Fabia III ) Both are Stop/Start type batteries. Shorter battery life. But this wont be for several years. Someone with OBD11 can also recode the battery. Thanks. AG Falco

I think standard fit is probably "recycled old manhole covers"!

A picture from our New Years walk to Pen Y Fan in the Brecon Beacons National Park earlier today.

jeez.............this place.

Here we go again, did someone call the HGV/PSV safety police into this small hatchback thread? 🐽

If anyone was wondering, it is 15 years old. Just for info Being stored in the dark stops the rubber being affected by ultra violet light / sunlight / weather etc, but doesn't stop the potential corrosion "inside" the structure of the tyre. This is why tyres over 10 years old are now banned on HGV's and PSV's irrespective if they are new or used.

If it's the same bloody size as the rest of the tyres on the car what is the point of this thread? Seriously.

What size tyre is on the rest of the wheels? It looks like you have a 205 45 16 tyre on a steel wheel as your spare. Is this the same size as the rest of your tyres? If it is then it's the same pressure as the rest. Tyre was made in late 2007. Thanks, AG Falco