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Cleans up well, I have a few changes happening this week swapping springs to h&r so should be an extra 10mm down front and rear over the eibachs. New rear top mounts and various new nuts and bolts for the suspension side as it’s been on and off a couple of times now. Powerflex arb bushes Yellowstuff front pads then off to Motorist hub on Sunday with a few up owners

Haha, what? Ignorance does not excuse for poor service. It's actually more reflective of their poor conduct.

The Front of House Managers says sorry just a bit or a mix up. As to an Automatic Courtesy cars, she is not sure if the Corsa Electric cars they have are automatics.... The Pure Genius product gurus at the Arnold Clark Innovation Centre in Glasgow need to maybe get out in their longest range EV's and have a wee tour around the Service Managers. Maybe put them on a coarse. I was asked, 'Do you know how many employees Arnold Clark have?' Well yes i do. & Arnold Clark has colleges.. http://gtg.co.uk/about

Hey @varooom thank you for the lightning-fast response. @TheClient - you, too. @varooomI'll review the materials you provided and will get back to you! Thank you so much!

I prefer the industrial look.

The rear mounted actuator that controls the self leveling sensor is probably toast at this point, and they're no longer available new from Skoda. The price alone when they were available was crazy expensive as well. If the sensor is goosed, it'll default the headlamp aim to the most downward position, and as you're supposed to use VCDS to set the headlamps in the middle of their range you'll not have any luck trying to adjust with the laptop either. You can manually set the headlamps, but only when you've had the adjuster out of the unit and manipulated it to it's max height setting, then you can adjust them using the allen key adjusters on the units. Be sure to unplug the adjusters and leave them unplugged. This will at least allow you to align them enough for MOT purposes, as to the light output from them, they are old units now, and even when new they were not "modern LED laser light" bright back then, barely any better than the halogen offerings, so you can invest in restoring the silvered bowls, but that's not cheap either. Cheapest bet (if you're not hung up on originality) is to replace them with new halogen units.

It sounds to me like the garage are just firing up the parts-cannon until the issue goes away, they should be doing a proper diagnosis, especially for a reoccurring fault. The ash level is the important one to look at, this isn't combustible therefore isn't removed in the regen process. If the DPF ash levels are high it will have less capacity and will result in the lights coming on. If you have high ash levels, you could look at having it chemical cleaned and see what results you get. I'm sure you already know this, but DPF equipped cars aren't the best for short trips/town driving as the soot loading is often heavier and they don't get the chance to complete regeneration cycles or do passive regens.

Surely an independent Skoda garage does not need told by the customer what needs doing. Do customers tell you what you need to do in your funeral business? Talk to them about what you require, not how to do it.

Further reading if you need to learn the background details, they mention beefed up components. I certainly never had any trouble with many miles of stop/start journeys. https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-vag-ssp-426-start-stop-system-2009/

As both myself and Lady Munch have birthdays in May we got to discussing holidays and where we would like to be for our respective birth dates. She has always wanted to see Venice and I just adore Croatia and just so happen to have a friend who is the head of tourism is Split. Mrs has never been to Croatia so we started looking at how we could cover both dates, 3rd and 19th in two different countries. Sure we could fly in to either but that left 16 days between dates... What to do within those dates? Sittin on a beach is just purgatory for both of us.. Rather be out exploring the locality. Pompeii? yeah... ! Florence...? Yeah! Venice... Fk Yeah! Then she quipped that she has always wanted to see Lake Bled. I was quite happy with Split, Plitvice lakes, and yes, Slovenia. I must add at this point I have done all the aforementioned but this was some 30 years ago on a 3 month tour of Europe on 2 wheels! Looking at car hire costs it quickly became obvious that it was not going to be cheap to cover the destinations we listed with flights, hotels and car hire so I said... Beggar that (something like that) I'll drive it! One last tour whilst I still can and we take a month out of life and go see... What can go wrong??? Here we are, all planned and we simply cannot wait for the 27th April to begin our tour. Leeds-Hull Hull-Rotterdam Rotterdam-Luxembourg- overnight Luxembourg-Nuremburg (Joe Bonamassa Concert) - overnight Nuremburg-Liechtenstein- overnight Liechtenstein- Venice via the San Bernardino Pass Venice 3 nights Venice-Florence 2 nights Florence- outside Naples in the mountains 3 nights Naples-Tavullia (VR46) overnight Tavullia-Ancona for the night sail to Split. Split... 8 days of beer, sunshine and zero driving! Trips to Hvar, Brak, some deep sea fishing etc and my BD. Split-Plitvice lakes-overnight. Plitvice-Lake bled-2 nights Lake Bled- Vienna-overnight Vienna-Prague-overnight Prague-Dresden-2 nights Dresden-Hannover-overnight Hannover-Amsterdam-overnight Amsterdam-Rotterdam Home. Overnights include getting there in plenty of time to sightsee and plenty of time for a civilised departure to the next destination. If we have hiccup, so what. We sleep in the car lol We will be uploading pics and videos of our adventure so stay tuned.

According to the picture of your nozzle it looks as if it is in the rearmost position. Have you tried pushing it forward where it is supposed to be, or does that make it worse?

I am making enquiries via a family member living in Germany what Skoda Germany actually recommends. Will post any further info when I receive it. Please post any info Which may discover. A thought did occur to me - does Skoda UK recommend a time limit because we only have access to inferior belts ? Cynical I know !

I believe it could be the water pump, it's a sleeve type and is prone to sticking. Might need to be replaced.

Hi, I'm from spain. I own an Octavia Combi Style dynamic sport pack from 2017, I found your forum looking for help for my car. I hope i will learn a lot from your forum and maybe sometime I can help to somebody.

@Warrior193 thanks However it feels like the key will not "rotate" back in the barrel far enough for it to be removed. When I got it out there's no sign of resistance nor stickiness. It was fine again after trip home...

Welcome to the forum. Cats can retain operating temperature for at least 10-15 minutes (some sources quote up to 25 mins) Idling engine will not usually generate sufficient heat to get cat to correct operating temp. Better all round to stop idle, certainly if stopped for more than 10-15 secs.

Welcome to the forum 🤝

That would turn my stomach every time I did engine checks - On the bright side, I guess it makes it easier to see if anything has fallen off the top of the engine.

Oh whoops, my mistake. I was getting Which I took to mean it had been deleted. Then I logged in to post and have now discovered that somewhat generic error actually just means you need to be logged in to download it. Thanks!

Best of luck on that, when weather and health permits.

76600

Thanks for yor reply yet again..Been for a run to Preston on M65 today and eventually dpf light went off so will see how long it stays off.It doesn't do lots of stop start stuff because we are not town based but will give it a good blast once a week..Going off to States on Sunday ready for Daytona 500 so the superb can wait for its next blast till I get back. 👍

Thanks, dude! And once again, thanks for help about upgrading firmware and maps

We only fit genuine, too many forgeries on fleaBay.

40 psi because if at 36psi in cold weather that could bring the range to only 100 miles compared to 120 miles maybe @ 40 psi. Easy to drop the pressure if needs must. The 205/45 R XL tyres are rock hard, and add to the rock hard ride even when the Suspension is new. The cheaper models are on 16,s. Waiting for Arnold Clark response.

Have you checked the VCDS owners list and map? - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/ - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/224376-vcds-owners-map/ Might be worth contacting @Stu vRS as they are still active on the forum and probably the closest to you.

It won't rust as the car is dipped in a bath of rust protection before top paint is applied and fully waxed inside

Yeah we was responding at the same time @TheClient 🤝 If you look towards the end https://youtu.be/hAou90S_R-Y?t=215 3m 35s that shows the Developer menu you need VCDS for

Welcome to the forum, that should be Amundsen, and you can update the firmware to 0369. But the features you are asking to activate, are already inside your firmware. There are two ways to activate the features, at a dealer they can apply codes to activate these items, at your expense. Or you can use a free tool to hack your system yourself, at your own risk. The tool is normally fine to use, and has been used by many to activate. To do the free option, you must have VCDS or similar tool to enable developer menu in the radio, otherwise you cannot do the free method.

So is all well with the plugs, coils, air intake. Is the engine standard or modded? Does it start at 1,100 rpm and drop to this 800 rpm. Are you running using E5 Super Unleaded?

That idle speed is about right for the 1.4 TSI Twincharger in D after 40 seconds or so after the RPM drops from start up. ? What does it go to when sitting and moving the shifter to S ? ? Is you car running modifications, air intake, coils, remap etc?

@kornatsen I have sent you a firmware to check, please try to open your engineering menu to view your Software Train, to do this, press and hold down your Menu/Setup button for about 10 seconds to enter the menu. When in here please look for your Software Train (it will look like image above) MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P03xxT just make sure it is in this format. I also sent you link to ROW3 maps and link to our forum post via PM. @mofo999 I have also sent you a firmware for you to load on, 0480 as you indeed know. Good luck to you both

Ballast, 2x required: https://www.hids-direct.co.uk/xenon-headlight-d2s-d2r-ballast-for-hella-5dv-007-760-63-audi-ford-opel-vw/ Pair of bulbs: https://www.hids-direct.co.uk/d-lumina-d2s-50-brightness-35w-hid-xenon-headlight-bulb-set-2-bulbs/

The Mini is a 320bhp tuned manual so likely a handful of fun. Travels! Clocked over 140,000 miles. I suspect the trigger part of the door handle has cracked, everything else looks good but it’s not quite pulling enough so the door is tricky to open. I have spares. Road trip things. About 900km covered this weekend. And around 10l/100km which is impressive for an old turbo nugget. Hoping the crack can be repaired it’s about 1cm across. The ride is so much nicer, bridge joins no longer loosen fillings and cause buttock clenching. Noticeably more body roll which is great fun in roundabouts. Less road noise. So hot in 33 degree summer heat! Removing the sun roof panel made a huge difference to comfort levels.

The headlights aiming way to low is a classic symptom of the level sensor on the rear suspension coming apart. Xenon headlights are auto-levelling, and rely on the readings from that sensor.

Hi Varooom, would you mind sharing the link for mine too please (0480 I believe). Thanks for all you do for this community btw!

I understand what you mean, but I’ve always worked on the basis that music in car is going to be a compromise. Even in the days when people refitted ridiculously expensive ICE, IMO the resulting output quality was not that great. Quality of OE ICE has improved dramatically over that past 20 years and I consider myself to be fortunate that the OE unit in the L&K is, to me, very impressive. Don’t believe everything you read on tyre reviews, given they’re not always representative of the “real world”; for that, read the user reviews, which give a more balanced insight to their performance under normal operating conditions. I’ve only covered 1,500 miles but that’s included snow and ice covered roads in Ireland over Christmas, and there was simply no comparison under those conditions vs. the P7’s a couple of years earlier which, had the car not been a 4x4, I doubt I’d’ve got home. Wet handling is better than the P7’s too. Hard acceleration has no loss of traction and braking in the wet or dry are there or there abouts too. They are not as good as the P7’s in turning-in performance, being a little slower to react as one turns a sharp corner, but so far, that’s about the only negative. Whether they’ll last as long as the P7’s, time will tell, but as most of the time I’m not a push on driver, fingers crossed they should be OK. I’ve done ours a couple of times now and it’s due to be done again….once the weather improves a bit!

Hi Everyone, This is my first post and I was hoping that there is an update to my cars software or at least an update for the maps as mine is still the original software. I can see that @varooom has been very kind to be helping everyone here on this post. If you have time to check for me, I would really appreciate it.

That was exactly my argument too, but apparently we're both"wrong because Marky says so".

I use a multimeter to show the SOC before I touch car/ignition, it seems to agree with the car reported voltages roughly (need to verify) I have left the car a week, it never seems to go below 60% SOC. The Terminal 30 Voltage at least in VCDS = Battery Voltage reported, so I just log Battery Voltage for the graph. I go for an hour roughly each week with son for driving lesson, and checked the other week how many Watts were reported, so know that 400-500W is the baseline. It is amazing how many control modules munch power, there are some rough values here and there in some SSP's, it's an eye opener. After a long drive it was around 500W, so when it read 400W, I knew it was probably happy with the battery SOC. If you take the say 900W, take off 400W if we assume that is baseline, then that leaves 500W being used to charge, at 14.7V, so a rough 35Amp charge, again math's could be wrong. How much of the 400W "baseline" is being used to trickle charge the battery, or indeed maybe no charging was taking place... hard to say I think (at least for me!) Anyhow, I find it fascinating, and happy to go experiment and grab data. IIRC at almost idle, the Alternator can output some serious power, I put on heated screens both front and rear to reach 2000W from it, and I can make it run at 2800W with heated seats on also. Idle barely increases, maybe another 50rpm? Edit: Forgot to add a quick picture of the raw values, sorry that VCDS has 3x time columns, was 12.3V on multimeter, and drops to 12.0V when you turn ignition to position II

Not today.......but I had my 2019 150 tdi re-mapped to circa 190 and 420nm.....it's driving lovely . Friday just gone......I met up with a very kind member itsbrun (Bryan) and he very kindly updated my maps to the latest 2023 switched on scandanavian DRL's De-activated start/stop Start button now "pulsates" Switched throttle to "Responsive" setting Interior lights now fade off If ever someone was due a bottle of wihiskey next Xmas.........it's Bryan!!!!!! Thanks a million mate.

It took nine months to get mine sorted! It was in and out of the dealer and I was writing long letters to Skoda UK. Eventually it went in for a whole day and the system was reset to read in miles. The whole VAG group have has similar problems and many others relating to software. The director in change of VAG software has been sacked. The next round of models will have quite different controls, returning to knobs for many things like the air con. Your are not allowed to sue a phone when driving but you do have to take your eyes off the road to poke through several screen to do things.

Agreed. Although I think it's just mine going senile with age now!

Do you mean higher profile tyres on smaller rims?

Tbh, aside from toot’s principle of buying something now no longer in my possession, and the dealer doing nothing, tbh I deal with it by closing the bonnet and getting on with my life.

Been playing with fitting facelift dash panels so I could get the ambient lighting as I have all the wiring there already just needed the panels. so brought a facelift stereo and swapped my headunit to it and sprayed the surround black, found a Up Beats dash set that had white ambient lights so swapped them over. Just need one switch that’s on order, came out really well. Citigo never got the beats sound system but I retrofitted that all from the gti, the amplifier rear speakers and sub in boot. So it is truely a citigo Beats 😂 just on the look out for another steering wheel now

Why are the chart axis title wrong? Can you trust them? 😂 Anyway, joking aside, this must feel super.

The parts catalogue entry for a 2011 Octavia Scout is HERE. Can you identify which parts you need from there?

Coding is only needed in terms of configuration details, 2 minute VCDS job. Happy to do that for if you don't have such kit, and maybe you're local-ish?

Needed to change a failed Heater Fan on Fabia 2 and looking at the web and forum saw that removing the dash and steering wheel was one of the recommendations, others said no need to remove steering wheel, and two said they had done it without doing either but gave little detail. First two methods are quite correct and probably what dealers/independents charge for Not wanting to remove dash as I usually end up breaking something else along the way I explored the alternative so decided to remove all dash fixings to the left (from a LINE at RHS of Radio). Plan was to then prize the end of dashboard out to hopefully get the Fan out via bottom of glove box Remove oblong shaped surrounding radio, remove Radio 4 screws, unplug cables, 4 more screws and pull off the horseshoe shroud that goes round the radio. 2 Screws behind that fix dash to steel removed. No need to touch air con panel above, no need to remove pollen filter, no need to remove passenger air bag cover or air bag, but switch it off at key switch at LHS just in case Remove top box cubby lid 2 screws. Inside lower cubby hole remove the small round plastic plug and remove another fixing screw I drilled a 12mm hole in this plastic towards top and lhs to gain ¼ inch driver access to top LH Fan screw, see later At LHS of dash remove end cover and small cover at bottom front, remove 2 screws located on lower section of panel facing passenger seat, and 2 screws accessed through aperture once end panel removed It is now possible to pull back the dash carefully, checking you haven’t missed a fixing, and it’s possible to generate a gap off approx. 2 inches in which to place a wooden chock. Sounds risky but it all went back OK on rebuild Now under dash, very awkward and on your back twisting etc., undo the 3 small torx Fan fixing screws which you can access from this positon. Then at the top of fan via the 12mm hole you have drilled access the top LH torx screw and remove. Using ¼ inch driver and universal swivel, taped so as to restrict angular movement remove the Fan top RHS torx screw working through top glove box aperture Back underneath now to unplug one largish electrical connector attached to Fan casing and the main 2 wire connector to Fan Now tug on Fan, it will come loose, and then pull on the lower edge of glovebox panel to gain that bit of extra space and remove the old Fan. It is very tight but it can get through Make a brew The new Fan will come with screw holes that make the original torx screws a rattle fit so no good for refitting etc as they will fall out and you already have poor access. I folding some thread tape, put it in each hole and screwed each of the torx screws in a few turns so they would retained whilst you wrestle the new Fan into position Once Fan in tighten bottom torx screws, then back to top using the drilled hole to align drivers with LH screw and through top glove box for RH screw If you don’t manage to get all Fan screws in I wouldn’t worry as Fan casing structure is fairly rigid and neatly clips into place, plus no great air pressure generated as it’s an open ended system Reckon no more than 2 hours to complete, but you must have a good set of ¼ drives, extensions, torch, etc. but well within a good DIY fixer talent, and not suffering a bad back