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There are quotes as high as £1,000 being made, even higher than that. That is not including doing the water pump, this is because of the time involved. You can find a thread in the Karoq section. There has been members that had it done at Independents for less. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510175-karoq-cam-belt-change-start-saving-now/page/8 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/507544-cam-belt-for-15-tsi-in-east-kent

Hey guys, another update on this Spent all day on it yesterday, Firstly I started by ripping out that bloody tow bar! It was wored directly into the lights with no smart relay or anything. So it's gone and wiring original again. Next I un plugged the ECU and traced both wires back, then checked resistance in both, both cables between 50 / 60 ohms. Seems all okay. Although the cable that was broken was pretty black for a couple feet so not in the best shape. I will repair this properly. I started turned the engine on and still getting the code and at this point iv eliminated the wiring so it's either pump or something needing reset on the VCDS. Phoned my brother in law to see if he could put it on his computer and on the way to the garage, it bloody reset itself and everything went off. So my problem appears fixed, I think?? Most unsatisfying end to a problem, but I don't care But of strange one this problem, but on inspection i got see what kind of car I bought. -Ad blue tank has taken a hit, hence the broken wire - to rear lights non Chinese replacements -tow bar wired by a monkey -rear body work has been carried out For a 11500 mile 1 owner ar, it has some history 🤣🤣

The Cam Belt & Tensioners replacement is not £550, but we will see about that when you get to having that. Yes it is £435 for a Major service on a 4 cylinder petrol Vauxhall. Genuine Vauxhall parts. £385 Vauxhall Approved parts. http://vauxhall.co.uk/owners/maintenance-and-repair/servicing/services-explained.html

Some might decide to trade in at 5 years when the see how much a service might be costing next year if they do it on a 1.5 TSI ACT Oil & Inspection. Extended Scope. Brake Fluid. Cam Belt Replacement. Spark Plugs & maybe Pollen Filter if not done at 4 years & maybe even the Air Filter.

Time will tell on how much the job costs owners as there are going to be lots of 1.5 TSI ACT's at 5 years or older going into main dealers to get cam belt changes. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/511551-hi-all

They had my car for 3 hours to do my wiper motor, I went up to the service desk, asked there, they said it was £550 under their fixed price servicing. I then asked if they were sure. They said they'd double check the price & ring me back later that day to confirm. They did & said yes it was £550 for my engine. So if I had booked it in for the work, I'd of held them to that price. I just asked out of curiosity, as I new mine wasn't due until Jan next year.

@PhoenixboyWas that having the person on the service desk having checked with the master tech that it was on 1.5TSI ACT, or was that just a price they got off a screen?

@PhoenixboyIf they will actually do a 1.5 TSI ACT for £550 then that is wonderful. There are those that have quoted that price but seem to not really know what it is they are quoting on working on. But if they will be held to that figure then it would be silly not to just pay that.

Yeah 8" screen with Columbus MIB1 from the factory if I'm not mistaken. Correct, all working ok and returns to Android Auto/Caplay promptly upon exiting reverse. There is a selection in the unit setting to use OEM reverse/PDC display or the unit's own version, either works fine.

I do agree with you. The VC screen needs work to make the sat nav guidance better. Smaller Rev and speed counters, better graphics etc. regards Martin

Maybe the OP will be back later to tell us more and if filling to MAX each time, and how low the coolant drops.

PS. Your Cam Belt is due a replacement at 5 years according to Skoda / VW UK if you go by their recommendations / guidelines so i would get ready for that expense. Maybe ask them how much they would be charging to do that. They might actually know about that work as well as they seem to be up on things. After all that is their job. ? Have you had the spark plugs replaced, the pollen filter & the brake fluid, or the brake fluid tested for H2o content?

How wedded are you to owning this car?

You will if they know what they're doing with DSG, most garages will just remove the gearbox and send it off to a specialist so you end up paying a premium.

Everything is checked and so pollen filters, brake fluid, new brakes in 2018, oil change can’t remember when without ploughing through paperwork. I worked abroad during the pandemic and so only have done 10k miles since 2019. In 2018 in the really hot weather after a service at Marshall’s Oxford the pump went a week later. Almost as if they’d done it. They fleeced me for another 600 quid or tried to. In the end as I needed the car badly I just paid it but never went back there. This is where i scrutinised my paperwork and discovered that the original engine replacement was just a reconditioned one because the engine number was the same. since that incident I’ve had it with ŠKODA dealers and taken my car to be serviced at ŠKODA approved garages. They’re more trustworthy in my experience. This problem that I have now I do fear that the dsg gearbox may need replacing. 1500£ before Labour it’s got 112000mes on the clock and now I only do about 4000 annually since covid. I love my ŠKODA and hope that it doesn’t become a money pit.

Installed and impressed, works well with the larger screen little to no lag present when working through the menus and apps. Only problem is with my reverse camera... Can't connect it to the new MIB loom as has an RCA cable for connection and my camera has a small purple 5 or 6 pin connector. PDC still works fine however.

Well, it's been "escalated" AGAIN, but I keep getting the same not-answers to my questions from Skoda Technical. Your questions: Was the 23AX update intended in any way to change the behaviour of the DSG gearbox? Did the 23AX update change software in the ECU alone, or the ECU and DSG? Does the attached handbook picture, and my description above (Edit – see below) , accurately describe how the DSG should behave – i.e., Sport mode selecting and holding lower gears than Drive and Economy modes? My pre and post-update ECU software version number and pre and post-update DSG software version number. The response we received is below The campaign was to: On the affected vehicles the software of the engine control unit must be updated and on vehicles with dual clutch also the gearbox control unit.must be updated.The software update reduces emissions The software update does not have any negative effects on fuel consumption, CO2 emission values, engine performance, maximum torque, noise emissions, the durability of the engine or exhaust gas after treatment system. The engine and gearbox ECUs were updated, there is no information other than the above. The hand book does not give a detailed description as to how the gear box should behave . I would suggest the customer visits the local retailer for a like for like comparison with another vehicle" This statement is junk as both the Skoda website here: https://www.skoda-auto.com/world/range-driving-modes And my handbook unambiguously states: "In Mode S , the forward gears are shifted automatically up and down at higher engine speeds that mode D" and "In mode E , the forward gears are shifted automatically up and down at lower engine speeds than mode D" I recently drove 3 similarly aged VW/Audi 2L DSG cars, and they have a Sport mode that actually does things... I'm still gathering data, but it looks like my DPF regen frequency is now in the 200s rather then 300s of Km. It's been theorised that the update makes it deliberately burn rich and cool to reduce nitrogen oxides, at the expense of more soot. I'm so ****ed off...

I was told by a friend which works a lot on auto electrics I'm looking for .5/.6 ohms. I know house electrics are .2 ohms that's why I confirmed with him what I'm looking for. All the cables I tested had results between .5/.6 ohms and yes they "beeped" It is a front end Cat D write off from 2017 which was profesionaly finished. It carries some damage and a few surprises as you say but I got a 2 owner L&K yeti with 11500 miles on it for under 9k so I'm happy with the car for the money. Certainly saves 300 a month car finance 🤣

For me, there is no additional high beam H7, only the D1S. I could be wrong, but part 9 is fog lamp, and the 2nd part 9 is same location with a long life H7. Anyhow, I could be wrong, images of them off/dipped/high beam will show up what's what.

See if all parts of the compressor pulley rotate together when A/C enabled.

Well the minimum you can do is take a few pictures of the dipped beam, then high beam activation (ideally at night, but daytime can work if you can see difference) Then you can think about the next steps, as we know already that the dealership is having you on with the bulb price alone (no idea why they cannot take the old bulb out and transfer!?!) Best of luck, hope to see some pictures later or a video if possible.

It is a sealed pressurised system, no evaporation should or could take place, this has been the case on all vehicles for the last 80 years.

I did mention you need a 2nd person to assist you, so that you can observe what is happening. Even in the daylight, which is not ideal you could get some pictures of dipped and high beam so we can see if you have additional bulb lighting up. Don't overthink things, you have a stalk on your steering column, that sends a signal to a control unit when you ask for high beam, this is then sent to the headlights to operate either an additional bulb, or a mechanical shutter. I am saying that you might just have a break in the wire that sends the signal to the driver side, and the dealers want to stiff you for a new headlight when it could just be a broken wire. Meanwhile you pay for a new light you don't need and weirdly a bulb that you can get for about forty quid.

@Lee You seem to be actually over thinking this or taking it seriously. Fifth Gear Recharged had a presenter riding 3 smaller electric bikes / mopeds and trying to carry a cake and she seemed to miss that one bike had 2 battery packs & if you did not put the one in where a tank usually goes you have a space to carry stuff. http://maeving.com Battery packs do not need the connectors to be at the top. They can be on the side and near the bottom.

Talk to you again in June. 😁

It's a pressure sensor not a switch, and it lives in the alloy pipework just in front of your coolant expansion tank. If you can't spot it, post a pic of that area and I'll highlight it for you.

Morning I don’t have the full VC so can’t help with that unfortunately but as far as I’m aware you can only put the Škoda nav screen on the VC, I may be wrong but I’m sure that’s what I’ve read somewhere 🤔 I have driven a Karoq with the full VC and tried it with the nav but can’t honestly say it’s something I’d use, I prefer to use the main screen as I found it a bit too cramped and busy with the map displayed in there to be of any use. (To me at least)

It is a guessing game for me. Cylinder leakage test will find it. You may have to buy, borrow or hire a proper one. I hate to say it but All 4 low compression does point at timing, my route of cylinder leak test is presuming the timing is definitely correct. 😬

The answer is a cylinder leakage test then. Old school way was to squirt oil down the bores and do a compression check, if it was leaking past the pistons the oil would improve the results over a dry compression check. Next step, cylinder leakage test. If you have access to an air compressor you might be able to rig something up but a proper tester is the correct thing. You can then find if the air leaks out of the inlet, exhaust, cooling system, dipstick tube etc.

I solved the problem yesterday. Somehow, car lost the injectors codes. I coded it again and now everything is fine.

Apparently spare wheel kits now come with 4 jacks. 🤣 I thought that was a rather weird statement too. Even if you did have four jacks, you'd need four people to raise them at the same time 🤣 🤣

Great to hear from someone who's actually having the work done. Even if the quote was wrong, which by the sounds of it is unlikely, once they've started the work, they can't then change the agreed price. Well I suppose they could try 🤣 My car was registered Nov 2019. It may be 20mth away but when I asked two different franchises, I was being quoted £1190 and £1250 with the usual, "if you can find it cheaper we'll match it" routine.

@Lady Elanore @pinkpanther Thanks both, one of those ‘right place right time’ shots, my daughter and I had walked down to the beach to watch the sunset and as she was paddling in the water in the foreground Mother Nature put on a quite spectacular show for us.

I found this out to as I've just bought a 2015 Spacey with no paper service history. My partners 2007mazda3 didn't either but it was all there online on Mazda app

The fact is that 'they" are liable to say anything to put people off attempting their own maintenance and repairs in order to fleece you out of £££. From tailor made oils to exotic shaped screws and bolts with mystical torque settings, all guaranteed to scare the carp out of the average motorist. It's just a car, if we look at it logically it's not that difficult to diy.

Thanks for letting me know

I hope that the bodged trailer wiring hasn't cooked the BCM!! Long ago there was a member that did this and he ended up having to spend a fortune on a new BCM and ECU. personally I wouldn't trust those Chinese lights.

here is "solution" from Škoda 2023 L&K

It sounds like collision avoidance, presumably the other car was directly (all of part) in front of you and coming towards you on what appeared to be your side of the road. Basically calculated that if both continue straight would be head on collision It would normally have put brakes on, if you didn't react, but sounds like you already had braked, so didn't do this. I have had similar, usually on country roads with slight kink shaped bends, which means coming towards you until point where it turns.

Apologies, forgot to mention that the car comes with door handles in the title - I hope this clarifies things

Please repost your question in English, as per the forum guidelines. thanks

Good afternoon @silver1011 and @2010OctaviaScout, I'm sorry for bumping such an old thread but I just wanted to thank you both for kind and helpful posting here. I have the exact same issue as @2010OctaviaScout described in his initial post after having the garage replace the serpentine belt on my Skoda Octavia 2007 just yesterday. After reading that there was an intercooler hose that had popped off I went out to see myself and this is what I found: Actually this photo is taken after I (very lightly) tried to reconnect it again, so it was even more loose and open prior to me taking the photo. I'm not entirely sure but I guess it is a MAF sensor sitting on top there, and that this most likely is the reason to why I am having the "Check engine"-light coming up. When I try to accellerate a bit the car goes into limp mode and I strongly suspect this has got to do with it. I have scheduled a new visit with my garage so they can look into it and eventually replace the clips holding it in place and the gasket. Will update the post as soon as I can verify. 🙂

After part one which covered my repair section on the O/S sill I thought I'd upload the second half of the mission. With the area wiped clean of any oils, wax, etc. I filled and sanded the area with 80,180, 320. Keeping tight as I could but I had little choice as to how far I up I went as the repair went quite high near the front post. Bagged the car up and zinc painted the bare steel. Then a coat of primer. Seam seled any gaps and covered the area much as the factory did. Sprayed with grey Gravitex where I wanted the stonechip protection. With the tape removed the line was pretty neat. (I still needed a touch of filler and dab of primer in the lower picture.) Moved the masked area to where I was going to add colour.... Getting the basecoat down... Yeah, 3 decent coats covered that OK. Gunned on 4 coats of lacquer, 3 would have been fine but I mixed more than I needed! Yeah, happy with that, the odd speck of dirt which you'll get pretty much anywhere... Match doesn't look to bad either, which was a relief! Daylight was also a pretty decent match, blended out with some Fadeout thinner. Maybe I should have faded out a bit further up but I didn't want to respray the thing! I was only doing the repair on the sills! I've just got to denib and a slight mop once I've done the N/S. Then wax the cavity & refit the rubber bungs/grommets. Rich

I have sent you a new link, they only live for 24hrs. Since you usually sell the firmwares, please don't ask for more... this is not why I send them. I hope you understand my "spirit"

First week with my new Octy, just put Vega Aeros on! Sportline work in progress.

Well, a suitable replacement gearbox came up for sale fairly locally a little while ago, so I actually got the car back on the road at the end of November last year.  Whilst it was all apart, on went a new rad and I did the cam belt and water pump. All went back together and was running fine. Haven't really used it much since as I've been too busy with work and my side hustle of breaking mk1 Audi TTs for spares. It's also still had a really horrible knocking/banging from the front suspension that I've never gotten to the bottom of. I decided this weekend that I'd take off the Audi TT cast lower arms and hubs and swap in some standard items as the hubs are the only thing that hasn't been changed in pursuit of the annoying noise. No idea why, as everything was tight with no unwanted movement, but this has finally solved the problem. Juat as well, because it was quite honestly spoiling the car to the point of if this last ditch attempt didn't work, i was giving very serious consideration to stripping it and moving on to something else. Done 150 miles in it since the swap and no more bad noises so it can stay on the standard stuff. Just got to wait til spring now so the better weather can allow a bit of a spruce up as it's looking a bit neglected. Might even get a few interior upgrades for it that I've thought about for a while.

Winter mode. Lowered little with h&r adjustable springs and 10mm spacers on 18inch wheels

Hi folks. Just joined the group, after owning the car since February 2022. I would like to share a picture of a vRS Combi in Silver color, just in case someone wants to see it in a less-rainy day as UltraRunner showed us 2 years ago ! Note that I ordered it without the roof rails (which I never use...) as this opion was then available in Spain. Hasta pronto.

I've been waiting on car prices to collapse for 10yr

You need to buy a dongle like this... https://aawireless.io/ If you've got any questions let me know. I've been using it for over a year for androidauto. They're currently making this same dongle work with carplay, but it's still in beta stages.