Leaderboard

This happens a lot, Passat 3G’s losing their ABS coding, T6’s suddenly deciding their dash has a TACHO and sends the display bonkers… stupid, it shouldn’t happen but don’t worry, they will have this sorted well before cars start driving themselves as can you image what would happen if a module recoded itself for traffic on the other side of the road? 😳

Last day of operation Cobra Warrior, so we took a trip to Waddington. The departing Finnish f-18's set off our car alarm!

Just finished and it starts raining... Shock. Cleaned inside and out. Rinse, snow foam, rinse, two bucket wash, ceramic waxed. Inside got upholstery cleaned, vacuumed, and a damned good clean.

Around the Liverpool area you’d be lucky to see 5 a year. Even when I bought mine 19 years ago you didn’t see many as they still had the old image. Remember getting laughed at by work mates for putting my order in. But back then fellow vRS owner use to flash and wave at you. They were the days. Remember my now wife but then girl friend thinking what the ****. still plenty registered on the road though. Must depend on the part of the country your in. They are the current nova/corsa though which is a shame. Really nice to see one that’s not “modded to stage 15++”. I sold mine (probably regret doing it) the other week but just couldn’t justify keeping it.

Similar for the well selling Zoe. RRP over £34.5k but got mine with 5k off from Renault central, another £2k from dealer, plus the Government grant of about £2.5k so true cost to me was about £25k and they are currently selling, with coloured paint, for around £25K new and a decent second hand one of 18 months old, like mine you might get for just under 20K so no big lose there and what will keep the cars value quite reasonable is that it can run for half the cost of an diesel or electric car when including fuel, servicing etc. Petrol now selling at some place at under £1.40 a litre and no government supporting grant, at least a reduction in the 20% VAT to say 5% on EVs would be nice and help save the world. EV's main problem, to me, is the huge dip in winter range which if I could get the car in the garage, charge the car in an home ambient temperature of 15 C and above would mean at least ones starting range at the beginning of the day is well up to the summer range and one might be able to maintain that until one gets home in the evening and pop it back in the garage if one is luck to have one. I think car manufacturers could do a lot more to keep the traction battery at at least 15C to maintain good range all year round. We had to keep the traction battery at over 50C for our solid state LIthium Metal Polyimide batteries in our Bollore BlueCar and whilst plugged in and awaiting hire it would keep the battery at 50c, its temperature could go up to 80C I understand, but the cars system, presumably vents or the like, kept the traction battery at optimum temperature along with a bit of power from the rid when plugged in.

Ive only just fitted 4 new shoes to the car, 55k miles and 5 years on the pirelli P7's. I think thats brilliant for a set of tyres. Giving bridgestone turanza T005's a go now

Definitely a day for Rainbows.........

Picked up this lovely Monte Carlo for my girlfriend. Two previous Brisky owners and absolutely fantastic condition with under 40k miles. Great little cars

Hello to you all. dutch driver here. interessted for testing coding with obd11 vcp or vagcom.

It wasn't imported to the UK so there are none here, buy it from CZ for cheap shipping inside the EU, the UK is no longer in the EU, apparently we have "taken back control" and are miles better off now...

I've changed my haldex oil myself and cleaned the pump strainer. Though I had done it already once, it took me a long time, since I didn't much space left under the car. Fortunately, I could refer to my own "how to guide" to avoid looking for all tips and tightening torque values: 90700km and 63 months on the clock. It's the second time I do it. It was the right time to do it. Still the same ugly mayonnaise on the strainer...

Phwoahhhh.....I had to put my sunnies on to c that!! 😎 Wat colour is that?

I did just that it's the blue/black in case anyone else needs to know 😃

Same here originally back in maybe 2001.

Thanks for the responses thus far folks. unfortunately I filled up yesterday as I thought I might have to make a long journey today but don't. However I will fill up with higher quality fuel after. And yes I think I can tell Ken! I feel much better prepared with questions now if and when they suggest any other work...... Many thanks Paul.

Haha yeah you can bet Ive seen that. Don't understand it myself, I enjoy driving my vrs but I'd never drive to the point where myself, others or my car is in danger. The amount of front ended fabias that I see on some of the pages just shows that they keep getting sold to the wrong people. I hate that when I drive about people probably assume that I'm like that because the previous owner put a straight through big exhaust so now I just sound obnoxious.

Yes, literally.

Get your Independent to test/check the brake fluid. Doubt it needs doing. Don't waste your money on the fuel treatment. In your bio it has:- Year 2022 Is this the total milage on the car or since you have had it? Thanks. AG Falco

Correct.

Totally agree. When I see 3 battery temperature bars on Leaf, I know it's going to have reduced range. Thankfully if the car is in daily use, it stays at 4 bars except for extreme cold days. Meanwhile, for Tesla, I have programmed a Home Assistant automation and toggle. This means I can set it to pre-condition using AC power during cheap electricity periods (automation will set a low cabin temperature, but pre-condition when connected to AC will see the vehicle to pre-condition the battery as well). In coldest days I have done that and only used 1 kWh extra (8p). But in the morning when I scanned data using ScanMyTesla app, it shows battery is ~13c.

I might be wrong but I think here (generally?) the tyre places won't plug a tyre. (ETA: unless pushed to do so, based on toot's later post here). Plenty of "trades" men and flat bed lorries losing loose nails and screws over here but I think often a good depth of tread can save a serious puncture, no doubt dependant on quantity and quality of your luck. Not to thread drift but if you've been out of the UK for a while you might be surprised at the new builds in certain areas and how they're packed in, many with a garage you can't fit a modern oversized vehicle in so the two or more vehicles are parked on the pavements (walkways). Bungalows are at a premium because of the aging population. Glad you're sorted with the tyre, all's well that ends well as they say.

So a little swap of the metal heatsink/brain thing and you're golden again! Nice work if so 🤝

There is a lot of urban renewal in Australia as many post-war bungalows, built on the "Aussie dream" larger block, are demolished and replaced with 2 or more, multi-story newbuilds. Consequently over the years I've had more than my share of being 'screwed' with relatively new tyres. I think the deeper tread makes them more susceptible to picking up screws casually scattered by the tradies. Cannot remember it happening at all in my 13 driving years in the UK. It is the reason I'd never buy a car without a some sort of spare as I have had to fit them so many times although only once in a very remote place, late at night, on a long weekend. The screw is well away from the sidewall so it will be plugged, otherwise yes it would have been a significantly more expensive new tyre.

The worst possible scenario, worse even than Doomsday. - A drop in the manufacturers share price!

This is most recent Skoda wheel brochure I can find The Octavia mk 3 is (Roman) III, mk 4 is IV (don't confuse with iV) https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b Generally want smallest rim size unless your local roads are maintained like surface of a billiard table with no ripples and holes.

Ah I get you now the 3 fingered salute is holding the top cd eject, microphone and setup buttons?

got mine from https://www.ilexa.co.uk/

Welcome. How long have you had the car and how many miles has it done? You are going to have to have a professional check out your DQ200 DSG since you are aware of the slip. A reset of the DQ200 DSG might be in order at 7 years old. If it was just in heavy rain are you sure the issue was not just your tyres and a case of wheel spin / aquaplaning? http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439395-the-story-of-the-famous-dq200-clutch-slip

I got 4 yrs, 52k kms, out of the factory P7 Cintarato tyres. Still had life in them for another 10k kms or so, but I changed to ContiMaxContacts 6 because I wanted to change the profile to 245/40/19. I definitely don't drive like a granny.

I'd imagine the vrs set up will be ok. I think most people want to go smaller with the state of our roads at the minute!

Time for a massive photo flood from recent adventures along the Forgotten World Highway to Ohakune for Wookies in the Wild. 180 m long one-lane tunnel, gravel roads, rainforest, volcanoes.

I have an Octavia Mk 3 saloon (2018). In a recent cold snap one of my headlamp washer covers also broke off. I imagine this was due to insufficient screen wash antifreeze causing an ice build up behind the cover when the jets were activated. Ice casuses expansion - that is well known. In my case though the two "lugs" on the end of the washer jet also broke off with the cover 😒 I didn't want a long repair involving the removal of the front bumper and replacement of the entire jet as it is bad enough having to spray a new cover with the correct paint so I experimented with removing the end of the jet by first first griping the assembly on the car with a mole wrench to stop it retracting into the bumper and then placing two thin blades (I used artists pallet knives) in between the clips and the serated part of jet assembly as shown on one side in the photo. That allowed the end section of the jet to be removed by carefully pulling it off. I further discovered that the jet assembly parts for the Octavia 3 (Part Numbers 5E0955966 Right and E0955965 Left) used the same end pieces as the more easily available and cheaper VW Golf Mk Vll 2013-17 (Part numbers 5G0955966 Right and 5G0955965 Left). It would also seem that those end pieces are not "handed" so are interchangeable. Replacing the end piece of the jet is a breeze as it just pushes on to provide an interference fit with the teeth on the main assembly. Hope this might help someone with the same issue PS the part numbers for the washer covers are 5E0955109E GRU - left side and 5E0955110E GRU - right side (driver side of RHD car). Best to get the primed ones if you can,

For the sake of completeness, part number found as N 015 082 10 "Hexagon collar nut" £1.60 + VAT each at time of writing.

Sod's Law. I've had it happen a couple of times over the decades with new and recent tyres. Only good side is once the replacement new tyre has lost its "grease" being only a couple of thousands of kilometres of wear newer it should be close enough to the other three as a set of four so just one tyre needed. I've no idea if it's allowed where you are but you could perhaps(?) plug that tyre and it be fine(?).

Does the plug come off the "brain" part, and if so can you carefully test with suitable thick power cables if the replacement motor will spin when hotwired? Have you got multimeter you can check voltages etc, see if the car is trying to power the fan. Several angles of attack, depends what you are comfortable checking.

Hi Steven and welcome to Briskoda. The rear wiper will not operate if Yeti's electronic wizardry senses (correctly or incorrectly) the tailgate is open. This could point to a fault in the tailgate lock. But I agree with JR that the most likely cause of your problem is the known issue of broken wires within the bellows at the top of the tailgate.

Car is now sold I'm afraid!

Could be an April fools??

Yesterday I picked up my Octavia Combi Ambition 2.0 TDI 85kw. 1 year of wating.

So after a year long court fight over a windscreen company replacing my windscreen and causing thousands of pounds in damage and they finally settled last week and it’s all resolved. anddddd yesterday the windscreen gets hit by a stone and cracks again!!!! here we go again

I have just remapped my 2019 150 tdi. The figures from all the remap companys will tel you that the car will end up with 185 - 190 hp and 420-430 nm........so actually, slightly more powerful than the 190 version, but I find it is not as powerful as the std 190. The standard 190 has a bigger turbo and higher spec injectors . I ran a 190 for almost 4 years and this January chopped it in against a 150, within 24 hours I had the 150 remapped.........it is definitely worth doing....definitely. But you won't have a faster car than a 190. I find with the remapped 150, I don't really have to rev it past 3k because the torque is so strong now. At motorway speeds (120 kmh in Ireland) a little dab on the throttle will drop the car to 6th gear and the roll on grunt is very impressive. Did I mention it's worth doing !!

Yeah, we are both on the same page. Lets not let solutions at a cost to me get in the way of the fact its totally unacceptable, should never have happened and should be taken on the chin and resolved by Skoda.

I took another look at 7zap just in case. No part number there but the diagram seems clearer so I beliefe #28 and #29 could be the same thing and #30 could be your phantom clips as there are 8 of them to the panel. 4A5853909 Parts Inn CLIPS-MUTTER CLIPS NU https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/8/863-863020/#30 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/4a585390901c-clip-nut-skoda-39594.html From a quick hunt via Mr Google[tm] it seems these clip nuts have a multitude of applications and are widely available across the VAG range. Here's some piccies ... https://www.oemvwshop.com/4a5853909-01c-speed-nut-satin-black-p288945/#gallery

I washed my Estate Mk3 on last Sunday (coming back from holidays with very salty roads). While using the pressure washer at the car wash, another car parks on the place next to mine. I don't really pay attention to it, since the washing slots are separated by smoked windows. I keep on washing my car and when I was finally rinsing my car, I had a quick look to my car reflecting on these smoked windows. And... instead of seeing my Mk3, it had changed into beautiful black Porsche Taycan !!! 😍🤩😃 Unfortunately, this lasted only 1 sec, before I realized it was not my car, but a real Porsche Taycan on the other side of the smoked window... 😐 I wished my "pumpkin had turned into a carriage until midnight like Cinderella", but this lasted only one second!... 😂 I think my vacation was not relaxing enough... I need more vacation... 😂

It's been reported that mainboard failures, A good electron. tech maybe could repair, or else a pcb replacement. Ebays have some to find still though..

I have just got my new Kodiaq. The clock was 24h when I picked it up from the dealers. I setup a user profile, where it asks your country and the clock changed to 12h with no option to change to 24h in any options I could find. Then I was playing with the info system and some how came across the user profile personalization options and there is an option for 24h, so clock reading 24h now. Please dont ask how I found it as I tried to find it again with no luck. So it can be changed.

Heres another go at it. Got silver mesh from local auto parts store, painted it black and installed it behind the grill and front lip also found its way under the bumper. Much better now !