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A few from Keddleston Hall this afternoon - glorious sunshine 😎..................

Have fitted a universal(chinese) one myself, does require an extra bit of mounting to the crash bar however it was pretty simple. Works fine for £70

Ever wished you'd not started a thread ??

The 215/60 16" are NOT an illegal size for a Yeti just something the Greenline 1.6 TDI does not normally come with but are homologated size for a Skoda Yeti!

Yes the Zoe has it pluses but the lack of seat height adjustment and those seats being just OK rather than good as they usually are in Renaults put one off have the Zoe as one's only longish range/journey car. Megane-E is a nice place to be and would suit me quite well but with so many changes happening in the EV market one would have to absolutely think the styling and features of the Megane-E is what you want as there is so much happening with:- Prices of EVs falling like stones Battery chemistry changing from Lithium ion to Lithium Iron Phosphate and even Sodium Cars currently on finance on great rates and most new offers on high higher rates So Renault, and all the other European manufacturers, need to get their act together to meet the challenge of TESLA and the Chinese offering else their products will not look competitive in terms of spec but then Renault are going to play on the heritage aspect by bring back the Renault 4 and 5, worked for Mini so should work again on some buyers. On another subject I have been watching some great Youtube vids and researching the amount of electrically generation on the Scottish Islands. OMG, so much power being generated and the electricity board ned to get them plugged in to the National Grid ASAP. Big big numbers of power creation nearly 2 GWs from Hebrides, 600 MW from Shetland, 200MW from Orkney and 10% of the population generating their own via their own wind turbines, highest percentage of EV in use anywhere in UK. Impressive.

I have to be careful not to be too complacent when I visit other places. We had an article in our local newspaper recently with a picture of a damaged flower pot and the police were asking if anyone had any information on the identity of the perpetrators. That seems to be about the most serious crime here for some while! I'm off to Lithuania for 3 weeks soon and will be renting an apartment in Klaipėda where the car will be parked on the street or in a parking bay nearby, so I'll need to more wary of keeping the car as safe as possible.

Maybe an idea to keep the threads together. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510219-need-help-on-security-access-code-for-adaption-in-brakes-in-skoda-kodiaq

Taken in Clanger Woods near Trowbridge on Saturday

The dreaded lamp warning came back within a week, both bulbs are definitely fine and working. next step get in and give it a proper clean with contact cleaner.

Skoda Storyboard carrying first glimpse of of Superb mk4 premiere later in 2023 will be built in VW plant in Bratislava, Slovakia Maybe the mods can move this later to mk4 section when it is created https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/first-taster-a-glimpse-of-the-superb-and-kodiaq/

with version 742 the radio did not recognize it

What a find!!! Seems 3.50 has brought the bug back, just got to wait for a code release and keep turning it off. Thank you!!

There is update to 0253 version As for unlocking features, you have 2x choices, one you can contact a dealer or independant and get a code to unlock (kerrching) Or you can get the radio modified via a "toolkit" which is best discussed in PM.

Easy to get a CoC from VAG Europe and free of charge, just tell them that you intend reregistering it in another country, dont be specific because within the EU you would not need to. Otherwise go to the Drire with your Carte Grise or the Type Mines numéro and ask for a copy of the barré rouge, there might be a slight admin charge for it, Barré Rouge actually means the EU CoC for your vehicle which has a red band across it preventing someone else using it to support a registration application for another vehicle that they cant get one for, maybe a Yeti variant not homolgated in Europe like the Chinese built ones or a modified fire service or military version. That will tell you if your wheel and tyre combination was homologated for your vehicle but Skoda France have already told you in very specific terms that it wasn't. If you want the CoC to back up a claim for losses you really are pi55ing in the wind, you have not suffered any, Roots post above is bang on. The incorrect tyres have long gone, you got the full service life out of them, had you just bought a set of new ones in the same size I could understand your frustration at having to replace them but its 6 years since the selling dealer fitted the wrong tyres (if the CoC says they are) and when you renewed them it was both yours and the tyre depots responsability to ensure that they were correct ones homologated for the vehicle not the dealer who sold you the car 6 years ago. You have suffered no losses, I hope you get a COC and find by a remote chance that VAG France were talking rubbish, that the tyres you wish to drive on are in fact homologated for your vehicle, I fully understand the difference in ride, I feel it myself on some of the winter wheels. It would be a shame to have to change the vehicle to get the ride quality the chassis deserves but Greenline models were compromised in many ways to achieve the lower CO2 rating and also to fit into the lower Puissance Fiscale (old school horsepower rating) in France, my vehicle has a 6 speed box but those supplied to France had a 5 speed box, it was registered in France by me (RHD UK import) as something it never was the French version. I take a different view to the god fearing French and know that the use of the word "illegal" is BS, its simply a non conformity, they would all have you believe that your insurance will be invalid, that they wont pay out on a claim, its all BS swallowed by 99% of the French because the education system programs them to never question what they have been told. Sure if you fitted solid rubber tyres on wooden spoked wheels from a veteran car and you lost control on a bend and hit another vehicle the non conforming modification will have caused the accident and they could say it was direct and known negligence but another tyre size homologated for another Yeti with the right speed and load ratings, no way will that ever be a problem except at CT time. I will need to replace my tyres soon and will try to find one with the highest most compliant sidewall, as long as the speed and load rating are OK I dont give a Four X whether they are homologated and will simply put the compliant winter wheels on for CT. My sincere advice to you is find a solution for tyres which will give a good ride without having to sell the car and forget suing the selling dealer, you are setting yourself up for no end of angst for zero return. When VAG homologate a range of tyres for a vehicle variant it is so they can offer option packages for each country, the UK seems to love skinny rubber bands on massive wheels despite the crap roads, other countries may require compliant tyres and more ground clearance, they homologate all the ones that might be fitted in the factory and also in case the factory of one supplier of wheels for instance burns to the ground, they can (and sometimes do) switch to an alternative. In the case of the Greenline models very few tyres met the low rolling resistance criteria for the CO2 rating, ther may even be only one size homologated, when you buy a vehicle like that you accept that in the future you will have less choice of tyres etc, when things like run flat or Denovo tyres cease production then people just fit whatever else is available, they probably did so from the first replacement, this is not so easy in France with its rigid beaurocracy.

I never rely on Auto lamps. Through the winter months the switch lives in the ON position. In summer it’s ON or OFF. I don’t need any “welcome home” or “welcome departure’ lights. Common sense tells you when lights should be on or off. As it happens I’ll be riding my motor bike through the Netherlands in a few days and I won’t be waiting for the machine to decide when lights should be in or off.

That's what I heard as well, it's the list price not the OTR price. So the RRP for a 1.5 Sportline is currently £39,135 which is under.

Normal.

I successfully upgraded from 472 to 480 without any troubles ! Installed mib2toolbox and have patched the CID Lock. Now I'm able to use any SD Card for the navigation system !

Huge thank you to SteveH18 - had my Octavia scout busted into and bags removed through window. (Long sad story!) Cleared glass today and noticed the above problem - presumably knocked casing when stealing stuff. Just spent 20mins puzzling problem and now 2mins research to find answer THANK YOU!

Totally agree with that. If you'd signed the order outside the dealership premisis then it'd be subject to distance selling regulations therefore cancelation wouldn't be an issue. Dealers come across this scenario everyday, again it's very unlikely they'd hold a gun to your head. If you car is near std, that's to say you didn't opt for unpopular options, then even if they're unable to cancel the order, they may even be financially better off selling at a higher price than the discount they gave you. Probably nothing to worry about but best contact them a.s.a.p. PS Apologies if you're already aware of this but the 'list price' is different from the 'on-the-road' price that's often listed in UK pricelists, A more accurate guide to work out if a car qualifies for that extra 'luxury' tax is to look at the P11D value rather than the OTR price. If the P11D value is over £40k then you're stuffed. PPS. A tip to anyone reading / interested in this - You could be just under the threshold of that extra VED but because you optioned say Traffic Sign Recognition at £105, that may be enough to tip the balance over the £40k mark. So that £105 has potentially cost £390 x 5years = £1960 Yikes! If you're adding any accessories such as mats or roof racks or furry dice etc, it's worthwhile checking if that affects the list price. All these tyoes things can be added after you've bought the car - i.e. you want to keep your list price as low as possible. I know two people who were caught out by something as silly as that.

With respect, the TPMS told me yesterday that all four tyres had lost pressure but I checked them today and they were all fine so the TPMS isn’t doing its job. I just wanted to know if anyone else was having any similar issues.

Thanks, Modders, I'll follow that up.

You know, a few years I would have believed that, but given that these cars are gaining rapidly in the popularity stakes, the Superb especially, once a rare sight on our roads are now extremely common, at least around the London end of the country, I fully expect that they will come within the sights of some at least of the criminals in the auto realm before long. I'm just moving onto my 5th model so far, and I've had Rover 2000's, 3 litre's, Vanden Plas Princess 3 litre's, Mondeo's, and many Passats before, but as good as those cars are/were, none have come close to the comfort, space and style of the Superb 👍.

The VED date is upon first registration, not initial order date. It is based on list price (& options) at registration date, not any negotiated price if different to list price. It is another fiscal drag back door tax rise, as £40k threshold hasn't been increased with inflation. Your price with the dealer is locked, (although might have small print clause that this doesn't apply to VED and VAT), dealer might absorb the extra first year VED, but will be stuck with the extra £390 for next 5 years.

Your deal should be locked in at the price point it was in January when you ordered.

Physical size, flow rate, diameter of pipes, position of differential sensor ports, ....

The issue is your losing tyre pressure is it not. Do you reset the TPMS? EDIT. Got your latest post. So are these the factory tyres or did you change them for All Weathers? Find out why your tyres lose pressure, not why the TPMS tells you they have.

£11.02 + VAT from Skoda

You can do it with the car on the ground.

Sure way to ruin the bearings. They are idiots. Even the front driveshaft nuts are only 50 Nm + 45°.

I will send you by private message links to download and apply

Thanks for the replies, most useful. I think I am minded towards the 2.0, although it is less economical than the 1.5 there is no cam belt change required. Looking at the posts on here that's an expensive cost!

To @agjb90 - May be this is the feature called "Comfort Entry/Exit" or something like this.. You can check this coding with "VCDS": 36 Drivers Seat; Long Coding - Byte 3, Enable Bit 1.

My new used rims

Stage 1: 70Nm Stage 2: Angle tighten further 30 degrees

Now I see why you said that but still, compared to lots of amateur videos I saw before, it's good. That part should've been included. Fine by me. I can understand most of it even without subtitles. I must remind you, especially when used by actresses, the audience usually find some British accents attractive. So, is there a chance to see your old car on TV? I watch some British tv shows related to cars including wheeler dealers and some others. I'm old enough to know that, the TV is all about entertainment and let's say, 90% what is shown is not real. Also, with your experience on the cars, if you say something is fake, I believe you. Not the TV. I knew the 1.3 version's engine power is close to my car so I asked the actual value to be able compare what I see from the video while the car is accelerating. I guessed right. It is more powerful than factory stock.

If it was activated by factory or dealer, then no. If you unit was hacked to activate these things, then yes.

OK don't mock. This is my very first ever attempt at astrophotography. Sony DSC H300 bridge camera I've had for quite some time. ISO 800 shutter speed was 30". There's more stars than I can see. Way more.

I knew it was the front sensor as carista was able to tell me that. New part arrived yesterday whilst I was at work so when I got home this afternoon I fitted it in the glorious sunshine. Took 45 mins all in, most difficult part was disconnecting the plug. Now error free

I've used the guy from eBay today and had the spec for my car in about 30 minutes. Very easy,!

For anyone interested the problem was the fuel pump. It was strange though because after three days of not being run, the car decided to start one morning and was able to be driven for around an hour but it started to stutter on the home stretch as if it was running out of fuel, and after switching it off, it did not want to start any more after that. We then disconnected the fuel line from the front of the fuel filter and put the ignition key fully forward to prime the fuel system, but no fuel came out, and no fuel cam out when we removed the fuel lines from the rear of the fuel filter either indicating that it was the pump. After removing the pump (removing its hose was a real pain), bench testing it with 12 volts directly to its two terminals made it work for a second or two but never again after that. Once the new pump arrived, we bench tested it first and it hummed like a bird when given 12 volts. After putting the pump back into the sender unit we again bench tested it from the actual four pin socket and it still worked, so we installed it, primed the fuel system, confirmed that fuel now came out of its pressure release valve, primed again and the car started right away. Took if for a drive, allowing it to reach operating temperature before taking it above 50KMH, and it ran just fine all the way up to 100KMH. Got home, turned it off and confirmed that it started again afterwards.

It depends which MY your Superb is, from the facelift model (2019 on) the keys have a movement sensor which stops transmitting any signal when it's not being moved.

Is this for a monitor you already have, or one you're planning to get? I ask, because some monitors come with KVM switches built in, nowadays. My new 4k monitor has one.

Hi Skodanewb, Not wanting to be a smart 4rse, and I hope you take this in good spirit, but maybe Rule125 of the highway code has the answer 🤔😉 Cheers. Rule 125 The speed limit is the absolute maximum and does not mean it is safe to drive at that speed irrespective of conditions. Unsafe speed increases the chances of causing a collision (or being unable to avoid one), as well as its severity. Inappropriate speeds are also intimidating, deterring people from walking, cycling or riding horses. Driving at speeds too fast for the road and traffic conditions is dangerous. You should always reduce your speed when the road layout or condition presents hazards, such as bends sharing the road with pedestrians, particularly children, older adults or disabled people, cyclists and horse riders, horse drawn vehicles and motorcyclists weather conditions make it safer to do so driving at night as it is more difficult to see other road users.

They are OK AFAIK. But the site is slow like ancient dialup Internet.

A spare is definitely top of the list already.

Sorry for the kick, but wondering about some tips: I debadged my O4 yesterday, but still in doubt whether I'll put the SKODA brandname back in black lettering instead of the default chrome ones. What do you guys think?

Hi, had this happen to me recently too, and found an easy way to get the cover off etc - and design that is not exactly true to the ‘Simply Clever’ slogan. Firstly it’s far too easy for luggage to knock this cover up and out of position, with button stuck permanently up. Three things happen inside: 1. the hook (A) that holds the back of the cover down has jumped off its catch 2. the back of the cover rises and the peg (B) has jumped up onto a ledge (C), so it can’t be pushed down again 3. this puts forward pressure on the button, making it stiff. But also edges (D + E) catch on each other, which stops the button going down, either when the seat is clicked back into the upright position, or by being directly pressed. Removing the cover: Release the two long front clips (F) by pulling the seat foam back on the outer side of the cover (G) to see the bottom of the clip (H), and pull it gently outwards with a hooked tool (mine is an old bike spoke) to jump off its step. Repeat on the other side (with headrest removed), and the cover comes off upwards. Preventing it happening again: Before replacing the cover, make two simple design changes. File a chamfer to the bottom of the peg (I) so that it will go past the guide ledge without catching on it. Also, file chamfers onto the edges (D+E) so that they do not catch when the button is pressed down with some forward pressure. (Sorry, forgot to take a photo after filing done). Replacing the cover: Offer the cover into the seat vertically. The peg (B) should go past its guide ledge (C) without catching on it. The two front clips will click on, and the back hook (A) will latch when the back of the cover is pressed down into place. Tuck foam in all round as needed. Done. If luggage knocks the cover up in future, it should just push back again to re-engage the hook (A). Hope this helps someone.

Have another close look at the coupling in the areas where you consider the rubber is starting to fail, preferably against a new coupling but don't spend any money on one yet. Are the splits a regular wavy geometric line? If so then your coupling is not failing at all, I drew the same conclusion on the CT (French MOT) ramp and drew it to the attention of the tester, I got a fail for my troubles although there were other things to do like a rusting exhaust sleeve. When I recieved the new coupling I had ordered I found the exact same manufactured in fault line and the rigidity between the outer and inner annuli was the same as my old coupling, I had wasted my money, and like you wasted many hours researching how to get the propshaft out to do the job.