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As I know you don't believe me on such things there's loads of info on the internet about this. Why are you bothered about the health of the battery going in the scrap car. If you want to put some charge in the old battery using your charger then do so I'm sure you know enough not to do any damage that would matter for the very short time of the car being collected. I will dare to suggest that in my experience of old, flat/"dead" batteries using a 2, 3 or 4-amp or slow charge setting will be better than something like 12 amp on normal or quick charge which always seems to kill them if they're already in poor health - but that's just my totally unprofessional, non-expert (in any way) experience over a number of years with neighbours' and friends' car batteries. Then for your new battery in your new to you car buy yourself a 3 or 4-amp charger and maintainer suited to AGM they're not expensive I've seen people report success using £15 battery charger and maintainer from Aldi - only in case you accidentally drain your new battery too low for the computers or yourself as otherwise of course the car's alternator means you never need a battery charger. 😉

What servicing has that main agent done, as in the Haldex. Is that at 30,000 mile / 3 year intervals or sooner. Then there is the rear diff that could maybe do with a oil change. Diff not Haldex. First look at the state of the coupler on the propshaft. Is that a rusty mess. Not an expensive replacement. You will find threads on that. Look in the Yeti guide section. EDIT. I bumped a thread for you in the Yeti section.

Been driving Octavia MK1 for past 6 years. Got the bug. now drive Octavia MK3

I have the iv hybrid not the vrs, as a company car, now i dont use it how maybe you should, i.e keep the battery topped up and use hybrid mode all the time. When i do trips to edinburgh i will get 60 mpg when using the hybrid system and 45 when not. I dont hang around, so not an economy driver. Personally if it was down to me i would just get the full petrol version as its lighter and should offer better mpg - i think. For me it was all about tax, vrs was lot higher on the bik etc

Left Hand drive is so very handy for the UK for parking at the kerb and even pavement / kerb side ev chargers. Overtaking is so last decade. Central Driving seats in Vehicles is just so 'Simply Clever', if you can get your back side into the seat. 'Bubble Car front entry even more suitable for City / Town driving in City Cars. Tesla X with Auto opening doors to the road side or pavement side are a danger.

I feel like I'm repeating myself here but the boost control position sensor is the actuator, so this is confirmation that the actuator is faulty. Why are you looking for another problem when it's staring you in the face? Contrary to popular belief the actuator is available separately from the turbo and is only about a hundred quid, but the main dealers do not sell it separately so this is probably why no-one wants to fix the car for you.

Such a bizarre move by TESLA and a real kick in the teeth for those countries who drive on the left. Overtaking lorries on single carriageway roads will have another level of jeopardy added to driving, wonder if something clever can be done with the camera system to look forward from the right hand of the vehicle to electronically check if it is safe to overtake ? Perhaps until a big country like India embrasses TESLA we may not get RHD Model S and X etc ?

Thing is that sometimes noises on cars can be deceptive and what sounds like the rear can sometimes be the front.

Ive got to say, for the price of a maxton kit the fixings it comes with and instructions are shocking! They really expect you to just slap some tiny self tappers through the sills and that will hold the side skirts on. Really not good enough in my opinion. Instead I went down the route of drilling the sills, painting the now exposed metal, fitting stainless steel rivnuts flush with the underseal. Then fitting the side skirts with stainless steel bolts and large stainless washers as well as a good seam of PU adhesive to prevent water getting into the area. All of these extra parts cost me £15 and a good few hours of my time. But at least I dont have to worry about rusting out sills or my side skirts falling off.

Hey ! First post but long time lurker so go easy! I did have a search and a look around to see if already answered. Getting a new (to us) Skoda estate to replace our 2017 one… it’s the 1.4 TSI iV vRS 5dr DSG (Estate) struggling to find real world mpg anywhere… we basically do 2 things… 20 mile round trip commute 500+ mile trips to Newcastle or south of france… so I think the daily commute will be great… but just want to know if going to be frustrated on the long trips. Our current deisel gets 65+ cheers!! chris

Ah ok, thank you for checking anyway 😊

Nope, shocks are done without any other suspension disturbance really. (maybe track rod and anti roll bar link) but to replace the anti roll bar you need to remove it from the vehicle, this is done by removing the subframe

Normally as part of a lighting check they’ll put them to off to check the DRL’s. and they switch the auto hold off as it’s a pain to get on a ramp with it turned on, if you have to do the small movements it can get a bit close to the ramp posts 😂

Prepare to be very surprised.

Found the answer It's a straight plug & play

You can quite easily see the actuators if you pull the glovebox off. There are a couple on that side. Have a play with the dials too to see if there's any difference in temperature anywhere

I am disappointed by the matrix LED lights on my 2022 Karoq. Initially I was excited by the idea of having a shadow cone only on the cars, but real life usage proves to be hard for Skoda to implement this. Most of my driving was in Romania and so far I’ve found myself switching manually more often than using the auto dipping functions. What I don’t like: when driving on the highway with anti blinding fittings between the lanes, the matrix lights constantly blind lory drivers, also they have trouble with cars in front of you when switching lanes In Romania small bridges are marked with reflective red indicators, one at each end of the bridge edge, somehow my Karoq always confuses this bridges with the rear lights of a car and makes a shadow on the railing (this also happens on the highway with reflective indicators on the railing if one of the indicators is missing and distance between them is bigger than standard) this can be very dangerous on narrow roads. when driving on poor roads with a lot of pot holes, every time I reduce the speed to avoid a hole, even if its pitch black, it dips to low beams. the quality of the LED is noticeably worst than standard, also there is a visible transition line from where the low beam illuminates and the high beam illuminates, I find it distracting.

No worries 👍

So just want to add some more info for the future reference and users that might have the same issue. After dismantling the gearbox, it was observed that flywheel doesn't have much more (a bit more) movement compared to the new flywheel. However, doing detailed inspection, it was discovered that needle bearing inside the flywheel is totally worn out, and once flywheel was pulled out, bearing fell a part totally. Attached are the pictures. And this would explain the noise from the beginning, mechanical bearing squeaking noise. Part is ordered, and will be replaced and then everything to be assembled again. Flywheel will be changed when everything is opened already even it might not be required. I hope everything else will work as there were no other issues observed. I hope this might be a good guideline for others that might have similar issue.

I think much of the confusion stems from the fact that when not full, AGM or EFB batteries MAY be charged harder and faster than normal lead acids. People falsely extrapolate from that to thinking they must be charged at a higher voltage.

It could be as simple as the MCU. Dq200 issue. Any engine issues and talk of such is just some nonsense from somebody, anybody. The Master Tech or Tech with the gear and something between the years need to get involved.

It's a very old firmware, so probably not optimised. This version is available... release = "MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343" MUVersion = "1433" {Snip} SupportedTrains = "MHI2_ER_SKG11_P2104*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_S2104*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_K2129*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_S2129*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_P3260*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_P3304*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_P3325*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3330*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3333*,MHI2_ER_SKG11_K3343*" As you can see from the supported trains list, it's at the very beginning of a long line of updates, so it has had plenty of changes over time.

So I have spent the last couple of weekends testing wiring and all was fine getting 12-13 volts at the socket. spoke the guys at Western Power Steering, the low terminal 30 voltage read by the OBD scanner was a sign that the internal pump circuit board had failed. ordered a reconditioned pump and fitted today and can confirm that it was in fact the pump! Would definitely recommend Western Power Steering, with V.A.T & delivery it's came out at £255 and they provide a 3yr warranty. scanned the modules to clear the codes and all good.

Chavtacular! Just get yourself some Ultrabeat on CD, backwards bunnet, loud exhaust etc and you're sorted...

Thanks @sepulchrave and ok I see what you are saying! Will look at that!

Obviously coolant in oil isn't the only sign of HGF, difficult to start is another hence not wanting to confuse that with a weak battery, but having no milky mess on the underside of oil cap also hopefully means the car wasn't used or engine running only for short periods of time. I wasn't sure if I could see the, at the time ubiquitous, glass sunroof in the photos, yes the aerial was there, a much better location than the rear window as the heater was in the rear window it would cause radio interference when both were on. If you have the Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual have a good read of that and refer to it frequently, I can't remember how thorough or comprehensive they were by that time and if they gave details of not only operating the car but also maintenance and servicing illustrations and instructions. Workshop manuals and the likes of Haynes don't cover the necessary information that the Driver's Handbooks do. If you have any paperwork and bills and receipts for the car put them in strict reverse chronological order and see what might still be relevant for condition and running of the car. Some people keep a receipt for a paint touch-up can from decades ago but loose the paperwork for the important stuff. With a very low mileage car a bill for a part from decades ago may still be relevant as the part may still be on the car which can be a good thing or not so good thing depending on the item, something like 20+ year old tyres generally are not good. Finding stuff left in the car can sometimes be interesting, amazing what some people leave.

Bump for @sunnyskodanz

Damn tmb I'm gutted missed out on a chavvy Burberry moment there 😞

There was a thread on the socket problem not long ago. A helpful member (can't recall who unfortunately) mentioned that it's possible to remove or at least lower the casing by squeezing in each side and wiggling it downwards to access the socket - it worked for me and I was able to push the socket back into place. I then plugged in my dashcam lead while holding socket from inside to prevent it pushing back in. I should have superglued the socket for a more permanent fix at the time, might do that eventually. It's just a niggly design fault. Sorry, can't help on the camera calibrations...

I did indeed tweak the firmware, but only because that was the quickest way for me to test INRIX without having to rewrite the map data. For VAG it’s just a matter of licencing with INRIX and including the tables and necessary configuration with a map update. No firmware changes should be required. Although when I say “just” I think there might be quite a bit of work mapping the location tables onto the map, and of course the expense of the contract with INRIX. And of course this doesn’t help if maps are no longer produced for legacy systems (such as Audi RNSE) as VAG are not going to roll a new map update for a discontinued platform.

A few more from Coningsby.......

Sometimes defective tyres can make a humming noise.

Is it manual windows in the back or electric, same for the boot popper? If it were me, I'd start by trying to pop the bonnet or wind a manual window down with a bit of stiff fencing wire. Last resort, I'd probably feel happier about breaking the window regulator than the glass and just give that open passenger window a solid push straight down. Just be aware that when you reconnect power, there's a chance that the car may relock itself. A half decent locksmith will probably have a pick for the lock, so should at least be able to open the car and release the steering lock without damage. The picks are available online and not particularly hard to use.

In for nct this afternoon Towed up because I didn't want to chance getting stopped. And... Clean sheet pass. So now tested until September next year. Should be 2 years but due to the unique way nct works, it goes from the month it ran out to that month the next year. Because it's over 30 years old it gets a "2 year test". If it were any younger it'd be tested until September of this year, and have to go back in again. Makes complete sense right?

no sign of coolant in the oil but will keep eye out for head gasket symptoms as I know they can be a weak spot I believe the aerial is on the sunroof but I may be misremembering

DOH !!! I knew that, honest Gov. Thanks folks, I am blaming my foolishness on lack o sleep and alcohol.

I'm inclined to agree with you, if there was the incorrect of gas recharged, then it would have been making those noises from December.

Hello all, I read all the 22 pages but could not find any information about insulation of the firewall. Does anyone do the wall between the cabin and the TDI engine? I wonder if it's worth it as the space it's limited. Another question: How can a TDI(EA288) be quieter in an Audi A4 or VW Passat B8 ( outside and inside) than a TDI(EA288) on a Superb? Does this may be due to firewall noise insulation or there are other things that affect this insulation? Thx,

You hit the nail on the head, it all comes down to the individuals perception of risk. If we look at this realistically, out of all the VW group ICE cars that require(d) a belt change at 4yr/40k and now 5yr/50k, such a tiny percentage of cars have suffered issues as a result of the belt breaking. ( I've never heard of anyone I know who's owned a VW Group car having issues ). And you can bet your last dollar that many, many cars will not have had the belt changed whether it be for financial or reasons such as skomaz mentions. So the risk factor of something going wrong because the belt wasn't changed has to be very small indeed. What bothers me tho, and I may have mentioned this in the past, is that there people here who agree, the risk factor is very small, yet when you read a post where someone says they're interested in a used car - what do Briskoda members think? the replies are always the same "make sure the cambelt has been changed". So when deciding on whether or not to change a cambelt at 5yr/50k as recommended in the UK, what about people asking themselves this... would they be happy to buy a 6 year old Skoda didn't have it's cambelt changed? I agree with the argument that changing the belt may cause more issues than if it were left alone, but isn't that theory thrown upside down when we advise others "make sure the car has had it's cambelt changed" or " a lack of cambelt change shows how the previous owner has neglected their car so best walk away" etc?

Finally got message from Marshall, that my car has arrived at UK port. I kept receiving fortnightly messages from them since I ordered July 2021, but up till April it was "waiting for a build week to be allocated". Fingers crossed. Long wait, but there were no better deals around since late 2021 anyway. 1.5 SEL petrol manual estate. All standard except rough road pack and all season tyres.

@SussexTrekmyn had been messed with the revs had been set at -60 below normal had it plugged in took them seconds to find problem was suppost be £45 but didn't charge me as was fast fix, maybe worth a try at a specialist near you?

Been there done that. My car is built awaiting a ship to the uk. Supposedly. Good luck.

Wow, a whole six months since the last update. I still have it, and I'll be sharing some decent updates in the next week or so. The Fabia is hopefully going off to have a running in map by the tuner some point next week, after that it can be brought home, MOT booked and then wheel alignment. Then I can start the running in process..... knowing me that'll take another 6 years. The plan is to use it to attend some local shows/meets over the summer, and then it'll come off the road again over Autumn/Winter. Pictures soon. Promise.

My Octavia was ordered 21st of July 2021. I can pick up the car 13th of May.

I got a call yesterday that my car finally arrived. I can pick it up in the next 1-2 weeks. My last information in March was that the planned arrival is May, and I had no further information until the yesterday call. vRS Hatch petrol ordered in Dec 2021. I update the spreadsheet.

Re the above few posts, I am in a similar position. VRS iV Estate ordered Sept 21, current eta via my work lease company is Sept 23. I gave up speaking to the lease company as I may as well have been talking to my kettle for all the use they were. Tried the dealer who were also absolutely useless and seemed to not give a toss. Complained to Skoda UK, who initially fobbed me off with a generic “congratulations on the purchase of your new car” e mail. I have persevered and am now at least being told my car has an assigned build week of end of May. That’ll probably change but at least I’m getting some sort of useful info. I would have cancelled my order ages ago but the list of alternatives is tiny now and prices have gone up so much that I’m sticking to my guns to hopefully get the car I wanted at the price that suited me.

But looks like a bland old man’s car🤷🏻‍♂️

Yes, I think all use wheel speed info.

Motorbikes are so much better today. All registered in the last few years have ABC. Tyres are massively better. Forty years ago we were putting 100 hp through 4 and half inch tyres. My 70 hp Tracer 700 now use a tyre over 6 inches at the rear and the compound is so much better. About three quarters of bike accidents are cars pulling out from the minor road in to the path of the bike on the main road. Always assume car, van, truck might pull out. Bikes are so much fun. I think the Tracer can be A2 restricted and then derestricted. My Yamaha R3 was also a gas. Thinking of adding an Enfield Hunter. Less than £4k, 100 mpg and the essential of motorcycling.

https://manual.skoda-auto.com Put you VIN in there, the manual for the car and radio should be a downloadable PDF file. Any of the 3 radio choices should be ok with FAT32 formatted SD Card, with an MBR partition table at 32GB