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DiscoverMedia2_EU_AS_1430_V12.7z

I agree and I strongly disagree with this:

Visited Kedleston today, where we came across the angriest Swan! Lots of Oyster Catchers at Kedlestone too, including a chick!

Did some checks on this today. Pulled the top of the carb off to check the jets and bowl for rust. All good. Lowered the float slightly as I was told it might help with hot starts somehow. Pulled the plugs and 1 2 And 3 Seem to be burning pretty good. Cleaned the contacts on the cap and rotor and lubed the cam for the Points. Running well. Gonna recheck timing, idle mix and idle itself next time I'm arsed. Still need to change the brake fluid, change the coolant. Replace a coolant temp sensor (gauge reads low). Intending on making retrorides in it. So far it's proven to be reliable enough, considering it's been out of action since 2010. Found a few things out about it recently too, namely some records of it. Came into work in 2002 for an nct prep. Some time after that it came in on a no start, which was just a bad battery. Last record of it was in 2008 where the mid section of the exhaust was replaced. It still looks brand new and when I got the car I figured it had been changed when it was off the road. Not 14 years ago.

What did you expect them to say, "yessir, our cars are useless, I'm amazed you bothered buying one"? Manual gearboxes are lifetime, DSG is classed as an automatic, someone will be along shortly to tell you which magic jizz to use, how to do it and which leg to stand on while doing it!

Realise now how the hybrid geese come to be - never seen this before (and hadn't previously thought it biologically possible)!

If you currently have 3Q0511115M rear springs, then going up just one weight range to 3Q0511115N should make a big difference. Kilen 65127 rear springs (matching 3Q0511115N) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kilen/12865401 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143320278000 KYB RA5338 rear springs (matching 3Q0511115N) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/15818093https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kyb/15818093 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334803428476

Been busy last couple of days The car had two little spots of rust which annoyed me so found a couple of mint replacements in same colour off a vrs too. Bootlid had some bubbling starting above and around number plate lights and one hole was drilled into bootlid at some point in its life meaning my 6 digit length plate wouldn’t fit without showing it, im also going to get the rear screen swapped over as there’s some white worm in edge of window, whereas my original rear screen was immaculate. just needs a good polish when I get it detailed shortly Rear passenger door had started to go on the bottom, so another mint door other then being dirty fitted to that, luckily tinted too aswell Then fitted some gloss black polo 9n door handles Also in process of tidying the meth install, all the various old holes have been rust treated, hammerited then siliconed over, then the ones I’m using were opened up a little and rivnuted, abit easier to fill the bottle here and also meant the Forge rear Brace I found for a bargain could fit. interiors and carpet is going back in, and going to get some countersunk Allen bolts to secure the bottle.

They say a picture paints a thousand words so ............. Still jobs to do but it's the first drive in nearly 7 years so was quite nervous/emotional! Matt

Hi, I've found a great deal on these Audi wheels for my Skoda Superb 2017. My original wheels are 8x18 with ET 41 I think (pegasus wheels) These Audi wheels are 8x19 ET35, 5x112, 57,1 mm I think they will fit, only thing is that it would be like having 6mm spacers on all wheels, which will make the car look even better IMO. Has anyone similar spec wheels on their superb to see how they fit? Thanks!

It might well have, and the OP should be checking this and with a Qualified LPG installer.

Showing your age mate 🤣 who didn't want the stututututu, back in the day

I assume that's just a compiled version of this: https://github.com/lprot/MIB-Tools/blob/master/nds2sqlite.py If so, it's unable to convert Maps\V12\maps\00\nds\PRODUCT\E3\TI.NDS or Maps\V12\maps\00\nds\PRODUCT\E3\OVERALL.NDS stating "Coversion failed. The file is encrypted!". The PRODUCT.NDS and ROOT.NDS in the parent directories converted though

I read you said there were no fault codes. So there is a record of spark plugs replaced a year ago, but that means nothing, inspect them. You might just have bought a quite high km / mileage car(180,000 miles) with not much oomph.

Some progress made today. I bench tested my old master cylinder switch with it fitted to the old master cylinder. All seems to work as it should producing a 12v trigger to the ECU. I plugged it into the car and secured it under the bonnet with a couple of cable ties still attached to the old master cylinder. Went for a drive and for the first time I get a gear indicator on the dash, telling me what gear I'm in and an arrow indicating that I should change up/down. But the cruise still didn't work. Working on the theory that the ECU needs to see the trigger appear when you change gear, rather than just be there all the time, I extended the loom into the car so that I could operate the old Master Cylinder and switch while driving. Success, the cruise engaged and disengaged exactly as expected. Conclusion at this point is that either the new switch on the new master cylinder is faulty, so I will refit the old switch on the new master cylinder tomorrow in the hope that it works. Such a pain getting to the bottom of the master cylinder to change the switch as there is so little space between the engine and bulkhead. I'm considering removing the bottom engine mount so that I can pull the engine forward and gain a few extra cm.

@toot Spark plug changed a year ago. My post is about this how to diagnose a Fabia 3 in vcds bro, i dont neeed advice how often i shoul change oil in TSi car. My car don't have fabric new power 90hp, look at yt videos, this car is doing 0-100kp/h in 11seconds max, mine 13.5.

Said I'd arrange something with him once the kids are at the grandparents. Bit of a trek and they wouldn't enjoy it at all.

Just one snapshot of the engine, not a full load Dyno, ECU will learn. Posted on a Facebook group and Ben from Racing line saw it. Assured me everythings ok, but said I could go up there and FOC Dyno run my car, just so he can show it's all good.

You won't get any life out of the throttle body until the engine starts so that's a RED HERRING! Please listen.

Engine ON with Start-Stop OFF will be enough. I've done this on my previous car without any problems. It's true - the stress can be quite high through the process and during the several restarts of the system...

Although the Columbus can use any SD card, the Amundsen will only accept genuine cards or cards with the CID modified to match a genuine one

Yes, my network crashed... moment to send

It's wrong, you need to upgrade to 0308, then to 0324.

There’s a very slight whine when I back off around 30mph, but it’s not there at faster speeds. The filters and fluids were cleaned and changed a year ago.

Nobody feeling brave enough to test the new Skoda 1941 firmware?

It's probably the sane and pragmatic approach... One of the main reasons for people buying brand-new cars is not that they love to spend a lot of money, but to have a hassle-free car at least for as long as the warranty extends. If the Skoda response to all those issues would be to take the faulty car and try to fix all the problems, while providing a courtesy car, some of the affected customers might accept the situation. (surely they don't have so many courtesy cars). But it's not the case... So yeah, going for another car seems reasonable as long as you do your homework properly and make sure you won't find other problems with a different producer.

I knew it had a better name and ashamed to say I knew it was the waste gate. Need to brush up.

Also worth reading the label inside the fuel filler flap as that lists the OE tyre sizes.

Easily avoided by the majority of people who dont buy cars new or from dealers.

Thanks JR. Useful information there. Now I have a measure of the situation, I'll not spend time trying to straighten the damage. I find it shocking how badly informed or educated are some recovery outfits. One was going to pull my car back onto the truck by putting a rope around a beam under the rear seats on which there is a label that says 'Do not jack or load this bar', or something to that effect. If I hadn't known that and been standing there, maybe my car would have ended up at its destination with a pointy roof! As you can see, this was lovely and unrectifiable. What was the answer I got? "Well, its a twelve year old car. I wouldn't bother about it". There were a lot of fumes but I managed to keep them in my fume cylinder, until I walked away and talked to the grass.

As @MarkyG82says, it's an internal wastegate, to regulate boost pressure. From my little knowledge, it is quite common and not much to worry about. But if it starts affecting performance, gets more noticeable more often or starts to throw up error codes, then obviously it'd need investigating

Thanks Graham. I know what you meant. I know how to switch it off when it IS actually working (2 presses on the steering wheel buttons) but sometimes it doesn't work at all and you get a warning message. Totally random.

Tbh having none is worse lol especially when you see other Kamiq and Scala with it.

Got a petrol blue 2016 model here too. a real change from the sea of greys.

You mean "put the battery factory on land owned by someone else"?

Well it's back in and working as it should have been. VID_27180721_025917_295.mp4

@numskull Ordered from local VW dealer, They were four identical within one package

The A/C condenser is the thing that sits in front of the engine coolant radiator. The A/C evaporator is the thing in the cabin that gets cold. Just cabin-side of where the refrigerant pipes go through the firewall. The thing under the driver's seat is probably a diesel fuel cooler. The evaporator drain is visible in the first two photos you posted, 8* in the first 5 in the close-up second photo, adjacent to the pipes going to the heater matrix. Find it under a flap of sound insulation (shown as item 1 in your second picture), and as described in that linked thread. The condensed water is probably running from this drain, around the body metalwork to a low point near the fuel cooler, then falling to the ground.

Checking all of the pads, slide pins, pistons and handbrakes levers (on the rears) are all nice and free along with the fluid change to see if that makes much of a difference to the braking feel is a great first step. You'd be amazed at how a little bit of stickage can remove feel. The standard brakes are pretty good when they're all in good working order.

Just follow any instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' about disconnecting the battery and what might be required when reconnected (not all or just one thing they list might need attention). Bear in mind how you are going to get back into the car to reconnect the battery, again follow what's in the 'Owner's Manual'. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf download copy from the following link, if you read the Owner's Manual' and refer to it (even for what should be simple jobs until made more complex) then you will know more about your car than many long term owners or some at Dealerships and garages. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models The battery only needs 'coding' when renewed and possibly not even then if changed almost exactly like-for-like, the first page of the following will explain. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf You'd probably get more and faster replies by posting in the Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020) section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ Good luck.

improvement aren't as huge as i waited for, for unknown reason they ignored adding of ~3mm foam layer example -> https://www.drive2.com/l/471766905447777004/ anyway sound comfort now are on higher level than A6, E-Class have got from the factory, little bit behind 5 series

Hi allaction2, It may be that now that I own one I tend to notice them more (like when I owned a VW Bora) but here in the Forest of Dean area I know of 3 others. This is more than the number of Rapids (1), so I'm hoping that it's a slow burner so that I can get parts for it when needed. It was certainly difficult to get a 1.5TSI SE to test drive. Nothing in any of the adjoining counties.

Did you stand on one leg with the gauge touching your nose and take the reading with crossed eyes?

20 around town is about right if the town is like London with lots of 20/30 limit and traffic. Even stop start won't make it any better ... 27 on a run (assuming definition is same as me.) Sounds low. I'd expect more than 30 in a 272. You must be ragging it,😂

Well done for asking rather than breaking it. 🙂 The knack is to apply pressure as if trying to connect, rather than disconnect, on the body of the connector, then pull the latch gently towards where the wires emerge. It only needs to move a few mm before you'll hear a click and the connector will be free to pull off in the opposite direction to where you were just pushing. There are various youtube videos showing this if it doesn't make sense in my words, search for something like "vw connector removal".

The Phoenix Orange was an unknown quantity regarding washing. I was pleasantly surprised. Today it needs a wash but it is way too hot. It still manages to look nice and shiny even when its very dusty. The Business Grey was good too, but sadly gone as a choice.

When i ordered my Scala november 21 took delivery march 22 sure i only spotted like 2 in that time. When out and about etc maybe spot 1 or 2 a week. Definitely way more kamiq & karoq's about, but when i do spot Scala on the road i always like to think us fellow Scala drivers acknowledge each other 🤣🤣

Was out Saturday in the car and saw two Scalas .. maybe just getting my eye in now!

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