Leaderboard

Hi guys, As said here, I had the chance to replace someone who could not go to Le Mans Classic last week-end. We were there from 10:30 AM to 6:40 PM. 12km walking and roughly 430 pics ! I had the chance to access to paddocks (but not to the pit lane), and sincerely, what a day ! The show was so tremendous, that I can't resist to share you some of my pics. DKW Monza 1957 / 3 cyl 1000cm3 To keep on with German cars: Porsche 904 Porsche 550 being repaired / tuned ? No less than 2 mechanics under the engine / gearbox! Porsche 356 (in concours conditions , all was like brand new!) And this version with a special fairing for Endurance races had nothing to envy the previous one: A 911 2.0 A Porsche 917 driving to the pre-grid, a former Le Mans winner A Mercedes 300SL 1954 with seagull doors , which was a former Le Mans and also Carrera Panamericana racer: Let's have a look to American cars now. One of the numerous Ford GT40: Another one here, close to a recent Ford GT : Two of the numerous AC Cobra too: Some British ones now, starting with one of the many Jaguar E-Type 3,8l which made the trip to this event: Have a look to the rudimentary cabin venting system! Also a fantastic Jaguar D-Type with its shark fin: A small nod to moviegoers by the way: More recent, the Ferrari 2023 edition winner, with its multitude of carbon appendages After race cars, some 'normal' cars: Among them, this amazing and very worked Delage The Mc Laren corner (I wasn't able to count all the £Millions lined up ) !!! Among them, this Mc Laren F1 GTR whose cockpit has nothing to envy the aircraft industry (especially with all its connectors): Some French ones anyway: R8 Gordini or Alpine Berlinette (with their descendants, contemporary A110s in the background) One of the 8-10 Pantera De Tomaso in the event: A quick look on the pre-grid for the 20s-30s category race, which was almost a one-type race and even a one-brand race, so numerous were the Bentleys! This one in the background had a very thin worked radiator cap, but I wasn't able to define what it represented for sure (a contortionist?). I didn't have the opportunity to see other races but these Bentley drivers were not playing at all, they were real competitors "with a knife between teeth" (suction, intimidation to overtake in the curve interior in the braking zones. Fantastic show!) On one hand astounding to see the 'fights' given the price of these cars (we said to ourselves: How sick they are, did they forget the price of these cars ?) and on the other hand, so exciting to see how they simply make them "live" by driving them the way they should be ! Thinking about it, I wonder whether I finally prefer to see them like that, rather than in a museum remaining parked ... Some Porsche 911 from all generations as far as eye can see! A 1974 BMW 3,0 CSL which raced at Le Mans : A rare BMW Z8 and another magnificent 3,0 CSL in the background: A Maserati Sebring (escorted by 2 Ghibli) absolutely splendid in concours condition. Really stunning, including the dashboard and the interior. One can also notice this 3200 GT in the background with its beautiful "boomerang"-like rear lights, which had to be quickly replaced by much more common rear lights to meet approval requirements of the US authorities... The sacred beast: Aston Martin DB5! Needless to say it's ultra classy! I'm really a big fan More exotic, there was a "Hot rods" corner. This one was probably the most exuberant: At least, you can't miss the gas pedal ! A rare Chevrolet Corvette C2 in split Window version (only on MY 1964!) An equally rare Chevrolet Corvette C1 '61, which had something really special: a Corvette C2 back end! I really thank the owner, who kindly hold the bonnet when he saw that I was taking a picture of the engine. Happiness of being among enthusiasts, glad to share ! A Jaguar E-Type coupé, with convertible roof. An option I had never seen. Fantastic! A Facel Vega HK500, also in concours condition. A french car, which had nothing to envy its contemporary Italian or British cars. Too bad, the brand did not survive... Fortunately, this British owner keeps it in amazing conditions. Sorry I can't share all my pics, but you have here a nice panel !

So, inspired by the Superb insulation topic and this one I gave a try on my Octavia 1.5. Did the wheel arches on the outside, the doors, the B-pillars and the floor under backseat. Maybe in the future I will give a try also on the boot floor + sides ( C pillars + arches on the inside ) Made measures with an mobile phone app before and after. Same road, 85km/h on cruise test for 5min with ventilation + radio off. 73db before and 69db after. Happy with the results. In my opinion wheel arches are a must against the road noise( personally I run on 18" with Potenza T005). Used only few butyl mats but a lot of 6mm armaflex( maybe 9mm is better but this is what I got).

I set up an action cam mount in my sportline 280. Will prove useful for my upcoming trip to Nurburgring... Having no detachable head rests meant no convenient central clamp position so I made do with a sticky mount on top of the middle air vents. Quite handy as vents can be adjusted to blow cool air into the cam. Would help as action cams are prone to shut off when too hot. Tested it a bit and so far it's still sticking. Have a backup clamp for over the rear view mirror if it fails. Also after a full 2 weeks, my brake parts ordered from Autodoc arrived. It's true what people say on forums. Don't order from Autodoc if you are in a hurry.

I dunno. I reckon this is probably a gain for them. Instead of needing skilled techs spending many hours tied up doing complex cambelts they'll have more space and time for less skilled ones to be fitting questionably necessary brake discs and pads. Much better margins.

Drive the car a few metres and the warnings will magically disappear.

Yes the remote must have a button for just the boot. If you have keyless system then pressing the boot handle will unlock only the boot

Hi, Our Yeti is now seven years old and normally we trade in for a brand new car every two to three years. This Yeti is the best all round car we've ever owned both my wife and I still love it. I was concerned about its age and have been looking around for a suitable replacement but my eyes glaze over as I browse the web. So many cars these days appear clones of each other whereas our Yeti has real street presence. Cars with no hand brake lever? Definitely no electric car of any kind for us. I washed the Yeti two days ago and polished it yesterday; I felt real regret even at the thought of parting with it; it's only got 32,000 on the clock and still looks like new. It's now taxed for another year and already fully insured with Saga from the 16th when the LV policy expires; the service with MOT and brake fluid change is little over £300. I've just bought 5 liters of Bilt Hamber Dynax S-50 rustproofing to treat it with. For the last six years it's been on £30 per year road tax now it's suddenly gone up to £35; £550 for comp insurance it's not an expensive car to own and run and it's such a joy to own; I'd like to have it rust proofed professionally but can't find a local company to do the job. I must have suffered a senior moment even to consider parting with it. 🤢 Kind regards, Colin.

Rain has interfered with plans today, but I managed to get out during a break and loosened the nuts on that strip fuse. It is definitely in two parts! Will any VW 40A strip fuse work as a replacement?

Hi, I had the chance to replace someone who could not go to Le Mans Classic last week-end. I saw the first Skoda Sport (1,2l engine) I had ever seen. It was a MY 1949 : Really amazed by the very simple design of the cooling system : Tank, straight brass/copper (?) pipes, radiator (+ fan), that's it !

Hello from Belgium, I am using the forum for some time but did not have to start a forum until i had problems (and they still exist 😞, see link below ) with my beautiful Superb end of 2016. Its a 1.4TSI DSG7. Picture below. The important options (for me ) ACC Front assist Line assist Light assist (SLA) Side assist Park assist Kessy Electrically operated trunk Memory seat Traffic sign recognition Driving modes Adaptations i did: 19 inch Phoenix rims sweeping mirror lights saved start/stop state with extra wiring Vcds: whiskers on with drl, no beeping when opening trunk with remote or from inside the car, drl activating/deactivating from amundsen, offroad view , acoustic lock/unlock on/off on amundsen, fan blower speed in auto mode, refuel quantity on maxidot, driving modes on maxidot, … what i want: - sportline rear diffusor - trunk closing with button inside car. Not possible with vcds? Anyone can help? - osram nightbreaker d3s same time with renovating headlight covers - virtual cockpit (future) Click here for The problem

It's an EFB battery, I charged it with a NOCO Genius 5 on standard setting and with negative charger croc' connected to remote terminal on bulkhead. Not had any alarms going off since and car starts first push of the button as it always has. Stop/start's turned off on mine though, as I find it an irritant.

I'm reminded of this day in Death Valley in 2019. It was in the 40's deg C in Stovepipe Wells when I took pics of what I'm pretty sure was an Enyaq testing at the upper end of the hot climate range. If Škoda and many other manufacturers are capable of producing vehicles which cope in those kinds of temperatures, then there should be enough headroom to function in the high teens and twenties with some level of obstruction on the grills.

Touristafarten... Not track day! I can't wait to see it myself too😂

I commend you to read the VAG self study guide on the cooling system for your generation of engine specifically the shrouded water pump and auxiliary coolant pump and their operation in conjunction with the thermostat during the warm up period. Also the oil to water heat exchanger circuit. Then you will realise that your grill blanking plates are a vanity purchase and not a sanity purchase. They look good though! These vehicles are massively overcooled but if the day ever comes that you need the full cooling capacity you will no longer have it. That said the bulk of the airflow through the 3 heat exchangers comes through the lower grille aperture when in motion. The aircon radiator needs the airflow through the upper grille both in motion and at standstill. The warm up time of the engine is massively reduced compared to previous generations but even they would not have benefitted from your blanking of the grille, radiator blinds used to be sold in the 60's and they did indeed have something to offer then.

Beautiful shot of yr Yeti. Is that grill cover from Heko as mine is or custom?

The console bushes are prone to wearing tyres through. I scrubbed a set clean in about 4 months (or 4,000 miles). Tracking was a bit out... wheel is dead straight here... The wheels, however, have more of a squint than Columbo...

If you Google you will find the zone of the windscreen where no stone chips or visual obstructions are allowed, I'm pretty sure that its higher up than where your guages will be.

I've never had any issues with this at MOT time.

28.69 Litres. Only cost £40 filling up at Costco E5.

I had a similar situation once, a VCDS scan revealed something to do with a fuel level sender sensor or something like that. I think the whole thing is a unit, pump, sender etc. I might be wrong. I cleared the codes and never came back again, but I do notice that I do about 350mi all the way to the half marking, then about 50 from there to reserve warning. To answer your question, possibly yes. the warning might be triggered by the indicator reaching the mark. All to do with the sender.

No that won't help and it's ESC Electronic Stabilization Control that is just for slipping it automatically rearrange your steering to prevent slipping on quattrro is perfect .. When I fly through the water puddle it little bit swimming and then it corrects me automatically love it This Driving recommendation is like it uses brakes automatically and independently for quattrro when you driving fast in bends or very sharp bends it will electronically use rear brakes even without you touching brake pedal but very lightly .. And so it makes you wobbly because only one brake either left 👈 or right 👉 is used so it will make you like snake .. Turn it off and you will start loving your car again

The fault code P1248 got fixed after setting the Injection Pump Timing with the help of VCDS. I bought a 50 ml syringe at the pharmacy and checked the solenoids N75, N18, EGR valve and Wastewater/Turbo Actuator. N18 was stuck. I opened it and cleaned with carb cleaner. It works fine now. EGR valve open on applying vacuum using the syringe. N75 is also good. Turbo Actuator doesn't hold vacuum. Turbo is recently serviced. Replaced the actuator and it solved the low boost and Engine Stalling

Alignment will almost certainly be out. Mine went through a few iterations of wearing inside, then outside edges of tyres. Lowering, console bushes wearing out, then console bushes replacement.... It's been perfect since the latter. But I went through a few sets of tyres where I left £££s and regrets at the tyre fitters when I should have had another 1000 miles or so of life left in them.

Hi all, Mk 3.5 VRS and just outside of its 3 year warranty (typical). I haven't got any working aircon coming out of the vents. I can tell it's working as the vents themselves are freezing cold as normal, just no blast of icy chilled air. The vents work exactly as expected when I switch the aircon off, but obviously the air is warmer, all presets work and air comes out as expected. As soon as I press the aircon button, I hear the vents turning, then it feels like they are blocked completely for some reason. It's a strange feeling but you can almost sense the air is being jammed in the dashboard (and I know how ridiculous that sounds). I've reset the vents (a lot!) using the two button trick on the climate controls and there are no messages on the dash saying there is an issue. Does anyone have any ideas before I have to pay the local Aberdeen prices for getting it fixed??? or the £120 the local dealers charge just to look at the car. thanks

Yeah used a super thick superglue with activator. I have been building an aquascape for my marine fishtank so just happened to have 4 thicknesses of superglue and activator on hand. Put a couple of strengthening layers on the sides after first setting the plastic back together. Fingers crossed.

Another poster resolved the same problem, it was IIRC the clutch sensor but he was thrown off balance by having replaced the sensor and then the master cylinder to find that the sensor on the new cylinder was faulty & he had to refit either the original one or maybe the first replacement, I cant recall the details but he then got back the cruise control and gear indications, search the forum via Google for the details. You should have the clutch switch actuation checked using VCDS, the brake one as well while you are at it. Just because a sensor has been replaced does not mean that the new one will be working correctly as yours seemigly isn't, when I cut apart my original master cylinder the toroidal magnet was covered in an unidentifiable magnetic Schmoo from where I have no idea but it would have reduced the magnetic field seen by the hall sensor.

provided the battery tests ok on a test, I'd suggest looking for parasitic drain while the car is fully shut down - correct procedure can be found by searching on the forum. Even with variable charging from the alternator, battery standing voltage should not be allowed to drop below 12 volts, as this can cause long-term damage.

Just following up on this after replacing mine with a unit from aliexpress. Can't fault the unit that arrived, even had the skoda logo in the plastic body. I did however have the same issue with the led not working and looked to strip down the new unit and swap over as per the OP above, but I noticed the positive/ negative wires were crossed on the new unit (albeit red/black v brown/blue) so simply swapped over the connections in the plug and tada, the scroll lit up perfect. 😁

You still have these? Thanks

After years I’ve just started to use this and I’m amazed how accurate it is with no fancy backend help in the cloud just good old hardware doing it’s thing !

I agree. I use mine a lot, primarily for calls. It’s great.

Sounds to me that the cornering lights function is enabled / coded when it's not fitted on the vRS. It's likely the control unit "senses" that the steering is turned, but the bulb / light has not lit (which would be front fog on non vRS models, hence throws a bulb failure error

I run these as my winters.

Thanks to all who replied with their advice!

The reason they normally snap is the ball joints seize and snap the arm as they can’t rotate. Superglue probably won’t fix that, if it was me I would be replacing the sensor as the arms can’t be purchased separately

No garage round here is tooled up for the recall...had it booked into Winchester in March, but they rang and said they couldn't do it...Westover Bournemouth said at that time they were hoping to get trained and tooled. My local garage Meadens is only Class 2 so can't drop the battery. So much for safety...

TV images are showed in loop and frighten many people. It's now almost "as before". The most nerving is that these guys don't have an ounce of brain. They've wrecked some schools or libraries, and sometimes burnt their own neighbors' car. Pure free ans blind violence... 🙄 They don't even realize, they're punishing their own friends, families, relatives, etc. who now don't have school or library anymore. It will take months / years to rebuild them. Some neighbors or relatives won't be able to go to work and may lose their job, now they've lost their car... 😬

9 months old today and now 29K

I left my 1.4TSI Octavia in the long term car park at Heathrow airport for 3 weeks when the battery was 4 years old, started with no issues on my return.

Assumed wrong that it would be a diesel. I will get some economy once i stop playing with it to see how well it goes and it does go rather well. Nice sport settings of suspension, gearbox and steering and it would be rude not to just set to max performance mode. I was familiar from other BM,s i have driven other then a few settings, but good to get used to for in the MINI. I-drive is so much better than touch screen for a right hander IMO. 118i M sport, 7 speed Steptronic auto. 1.5 3 cylinder petrol. rather good for only 140 ps.

I told my local garage to skip fault finding (I tested fuse, confirmed voltage exist ) and just swap the module. They charged me an hour's labour at 62quid incl. Fair charge IMO. Total time probably like half hour but at that point, I was happy it's all working and I can get it to MOT retest.

^^^^^ This, especially given that the battery is 2023.

I fitted B6 a couple of years ago on my 2.0 TDI Combi and I noticed exactly what I wanted: More body control on high speeds but no harshness at all. I was very surprised with that, as I have a Mini R53 fitted with Eibach + Bilstein B8 and it is very fun, but very rigid and harsh, too much for a daily use. It's my weekend toy so this is not a problem. The B6 in the Skoda were, to my surprise, even too soft. I mean my wife didn't even notice something had been changed on the car.

Many thanks for getting back to me HMR - No glow plug flashing, just takes ages, when the engine is hot/warm to start and then whilst driving cuts out - obviously very dangerous. However when it does cut out it starts and drives again no problem. It also starts from cold first time. I'll have a wee look at that wiring you spoke about and see how I get on. Thanks for your help.

Sure thing, do you have a before version that you can post (information for everyone's benefit)

I had the diamond cut 'sportline' alloys on my Superb re-done in BMW orbit grey all over and dumped the diamond cut. Way better to maintain, can be touched up with normal paint, no more white patches where the laquer fails. Cost me £355 for all 4 including one that needed minor straightening. I will be honest I think I actually prefer the look to diamond cut on my car which is white. I used Max powder in Apsley https://maxpowder.co.uk/ happy with their work.

MIB2STD 2020 Maps with TMC Update for Amundsen/Discover Media/Technisat This method doesn't require any toolbox installation, etc. Unmodifed V12 map download: DiscoverMedia2_EU_AS_1430_V12.7z TMC providers update: DiscoverMedia2_EU_AS_1430_V12_TMC_Update.7z Instructions: 1. Download both 7z files. 2. Unzip unmodified V12 maps to SD card. Instead of downloading, you can use your existing copy of V12 maps if you already have a copy. 3. Unzip the TMC Update to the same SD card, replacing any duplicate files. 4. Check/configure FEE BASED TRAFFIC INFO is set to 1023 using VCDS/OBD11. Give a big thank you to @bigade1 for working out the correct TMC config and doing the testing on his MIB2STD. 👏

Not bad for 14 years old.

Your Climatronic system should set the system to recirculation mode when reversing, I'm fairly sure that is a seperate flap but perhaps it also stops air coming from the vents to prevent you breathing any exhaust fumes that might get through. So your hypothesis about the car getting its knickers in a twist and thinking it is reversing could be a good one. I would disconnect the reversing light switch and see if the problem goes, it may even have sticky contacts.