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Halfords guy was speaking out of ignorance, your car can easily handle a 75Ah battery. I fitted a 75Ah 096 AGM battery to my previous 1.4 Octavia with no problems, and have done even larger battery changes on a previous Citroen C1 (almost double the Ah battery from a petrol spec to a cold climate diesel spec).

wow..wow..this fault has gone away. Check the scan result..I am so thankful to you langers2k. I owe you drink...

It is, and so easy to go buy some and see if the memory of them and how they taste now is as you like. I would eat Sugar Puffs or Frosties all the time, but i am already a fat barsteward with type 2 diabetes. Just to brighten up your day, if you get type 2 diabetes and lose a leg or 2 then you might end up driving an automatic or even an EV. Thought of the day, watch your diet or you might end up driving a dodgem or worse.

Nearly on 84,000 miles now. Holy hell. So, where has life led me so far since my last post? Done lots of trips with friends and suchlike. Oh! And I procured myself some new alloy wheels! That Swift belongs to my friend, at the moment the plan is to get some alloys for it too. You know, to smarten it up. The alloys I went for previously came off a pre-facelift Elegance, and suit the car very well. The 15s I decided to ditch as I found them too crashy over the 14s, and these alloys feel a lot nicer. Again, the car had got rather grubby, so a wash was in order... The other night, I received a phone call from my best mate, asking if I'd like to go to B&Q to collect some wood for building a small boat (because why not... it's not for people, don't worry). So, we procured wood, asked the man in the shop if he'd cut the planks in half so they'd fit in the trailer, and were told no. Oh dear. Uhhhhh, so we bought a saw for a fiver and cut the wood ourselves in the B&Q car park... Job's a good 'un.

6R0915105B looks to match a 096 battery. Back to Halfords for you I'm afraid 🙄 I can't see any issue with replacing a 69Ah battery with a 75Ah either so I've no idea what the previous chap means by 'your car can't handle it'. Just make sure it's correctly coded for the larger capacity.

Please set the lcode back to the one I gave you: 000000070100046600003D01010000000000000000000000000000000000 It's more likely to be correct given no other scan online shares your current coding. I have the same headlights on my FL MK3 and have a similar lcode to the above apart from the suspension coding. Once that's done and you've rerun basic settings, please try changing these adaption channels: - Light Control Left 2 to Yes - Light Control Right 2 to Yes

It is definitely 3 secs. If only there was a way to extend this time to b a much longer time, like 10 secs or so.

Come back NTA16 please! Someone is squatting in your shoes 😄

A cracker from the other night.

Fiver off when you take out a club caird. So aye... I'm a B&Q club member and I got a free* saw...

But it does, the more current the external voltage tries to draw the lower the battery voltage will be due to the battery internal resistance. Simple (very exaggerated) example: battry no-load voltage=12V, battery internal resistance=1 ohm, load resistance=2 ohms. Total resistance=3 ohms therefore current=4A (NOT the 6A which would be expected from 12V and 2ohms load) AND the battery terminal voltage won't be 12V it will be 8V due to the voltage drop of the internal resistance.

i think a gallon petrol (imperial) wieghs 7.3 pounds, or 3.3kg

Those surveyors might be best concentrating on Schools, Hospitals , Court building etc. Car parks can get closed, or have reduction on usage, then demolished and rebuilt and there might be disruption for a month o 12 for motorists / commuters, have to demolish a school of exclude people from it and that is real disruption. .............. What is the weight of lets say 5 Imperial Gallons of petrol, and how more efficient is the vehicle with that weight reduction? The Engineers here will know that, or very quickly be able to check. 'Just add lightness' as one famous designer of cars said. Run the car on LPG and maybe get a higher octane and a weight advantage and remember all the safety stuff for fire warnings.

thanks for that info Graham ... i like the maths of decreasing weight ... my maths isn't up to that im sorry to admit oh to add ... cereals .. i'm a frosties and cold whole milk kinda guy forever now it seems

Well I agree with much of what you have said, but the weight issue does also depend on the size of the vehicle and what it is made from. But that aside, batteries are indeed incredibly heavy and so is the power plant, but equally so is the power plant in an ICE car so there are 2 things to consider here, 1 is that modern ICE cars are getting larger and heavier anyway and also have a fuel tank which when full adds more weight. On the other hand EV cars do not weigh any more when they are fully charged, than they do when they run out of charge. There are many aspects to whole debate, as an ICE car drives along its weight gets less, an EV remains constant (ignoring tyre wear) so an ICE actually gets more efficient as the fuel tank gets emptied, so we have to compare ICE car with full tank against the EV equivalent to see which is heavier and the results will vary depending on model and specs etc. But like you, I also saw that same report and I can't hep but think that must be some substance in it as the publication does not have a vested interest either way. I do know that my local multi story car park built in the late 60s has recently been strengthened. The rest of your post I agree 100% with.

@promomast I have no heath issues, thanks, never been healthier since i was fat and 40 and eventually was diagnosed as type 2 diabetic after a year of high blood pressure and being asked, 'are you diabetic?' and saying no. Eventually i was asked 'have you ever been tested?' As to EV fires, car parks and car weight. EV,s vs SUV,s etc. 44 pages of that just in this thread. Different cars, different needs. Run a BMW with staggard tyres, run flats and see the price range of those. This is just a choice of Tesla Tyres in this size.

The wiring is pretty simple. A thick permanent 12V (black) and earth (brown), then a thinner ignition 12V feed and a 'command' wire (green) from the engine ECU. Only checks I can suggest to try to exclude the fan itself is for wiring breaks near this connector and/or corrosion/ingress signs that might be causing unwanted connectivity or lack of.

Have you inspected the wiring adjacent to, and connector going onto the main fan? Will try to find relevant circuit info in a sec.

Wrong.

It depends what headlights are fitted and which address they appear on. As yours are D6/D7, they need light control 2 enabled Go back to Halfords and tell them they've fitted the wrong part. Then have them fit the correct part....?

Back on EV's. It's world EV day 9th Sep (whatever that means) https://www.worldevday.org/ Oxford are offering free charging for that day https://news.oxfordshire.gov.uk/electric-vehicle-charging-and-hire-offers-across-oxfordshire-this-world-ev-day/

There will be some people getting Government Grants and from the food industry into research about obesity among EV drivers & the cost in the future to the UK. All these Coffee / Cake stops and going into places just to use a toilet. Then the peeing around the vicinity of EV charging hubs with no facilities. Like the issue for HGV drivers and others and lay-byes / stop over places with no facilities. There is the commercial opportunity for 'Reasonably priced charging' & suitable facilities provided by local authorities at Park & Rides and th there are Low Emission Hubs required, for Commercial Vehicle change over points for local deliveries. 'Automated toilets work'. Toilets that are automated and self clean are what was required years ago and were introduced then seemed to be removed. Plenty people will pay a £1 for getting a crap rather than having to maybe get into some Fast Food place that serves crap to go! As it is even where there are Park & Rides in Scotland there might not even be 24 hour toilet facilities or even 6 hours in a day facilities. The Governments are full of Wind, P!sh and Solar but not really moving with the times.

love how this debate went to a serial on cereals 😀 much more interesting

The outside diameter of 225/50R17 is only 1.1% smaller than the 215/60R16 tyre. 215/60R16 is the entry level tyre size for the Superb MK3. The 215/60R16 uses a 6.5Jx16 ET41 rim, so if you were selecting your own rim from scratch for the 225/50R17 you might choose 7Jx17 ET44, ie. almost identical to 7Jx17 ET45. 225/50R17 should have noticeably more cornering grip than the narrower and higher profile 215/55R17. I'm a big fan of Vredestein Quatrac 6. However, Vredestein don't make this model in sizes bigger than 16" diameter, except for 225/45R17 and 225/50R17. So by choosing 225/50R17 instead of 215/55R17 you too can experience this excellent and economical all-season tyre. It's one of the few all-season tyres that has longer tread life than the Michelin CrossClimate 2. One review claimed 43,000 miles for the CrossClimate 2 but 46,000 miles for the Quatrac 6. In cold, wet weather, the Quatrac 6 has about 5% more grip than the excellent CrossClimate 2. So if you don't get much snow, but gets lots of cold rain, the Quatrac 6 could be the better choice. Vredestein Quatrac 6 225/50R17 98V XL (Euro label C B 71dB) (3PMSF) (all-season) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8019p221178/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_225_50_R17_98V_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB The below rim is from the Kodiaq, and with its ET40 offset would give the car a slightly wider stance compared to ET45. 7Jx17 ET40 5/112 57.1 Ratikon (from Kodiaq) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kolo-ratikon-17-kodiaq/p/565071497A+8Z8

Throttle bit is correct. Not moving off is nearly correct. Mine will move off if the car in front moves soon enough after mine stops. Not sure on how long but it's definitely not longer than a few seconds. Maybe 3.

I sold my oscilloscope 15 years ago because I was no longer creating electronics, looks like it was a mistake 😒 Although the lad who bought it was just starting out and as enthusiastic as I was initially so it went to a good home. I could probably buy one to connect to the phone now.

my2012 skoda octavia 2.0 tdi has got battery drain if I use every day no problem but if I don,t use for two days it won,t start and you carn,t even unlock the doors apart from the drivers door with the key

Yes it is a non ACT 1.4tsi, I got mine done at 150k as didn't want to risk of pushing it any further despite no specific intervals from VW

DRLs are supposed to turn on when the light switch is at 0. If you have a touchscreen radio, there should be a DRL option within the car settings (if I remember it correctly). Non-LED Rapids use the main, "long" beams at a low power level as DRLs, so I don't see why it can't be programmed in into a non-DRL car.

The Aircon compressor is permanently engaged, there is only a shear coupling behind the pulley which breaks if the compressor seizes.

Hey there ans sorry for the delay, but work is going on. So, replying to you: The engine is not puffing air but i did a test where i removed the cap and throtled the engine and the water would rise up. There is no burping air/bubbling. I tested the water with chemical testers at a repair store and they confirmed that there is smoke on the water. So, i went to the mechanic and he told me that there are 3 options: water pump is dying, head gasket broken, egr cooler broken or engine has a crack or something. So just the next week they will do a pressure check on the egr cooler

If you're not getting 14.4V across the battery with the engine running then the alternator is toast in some way, shape or form. We could **** about changing this part or that but if you only want to do the job once then change the complete unit and do the belt as well while you're at it.

Funnily enough, there are a few slightly differing weights for Petrol on the internet? I'm not including the ridiculous US gallon of course

I was hoping for a speedy response from an Engineer that would have had it in their head after posting on here. Near what google says with 7.6 lb for an imperial gallon of gasoline. Diesel is different again. If anyone wants to run with maybe 1 litre low on the engine oil that will be a 856 gram saving.

The old fault was that the cam and phone would power down when stop start was activated. Now with the new USB charger this doesn't happen. Try connecting the old USB charger and see if they power down when stop start is activated.

Interesting comment, what makes you say that?

Logically it still makes no sense, as in the first instance it was the dashcam switching off and then coming back on again. Also a dashcam should have some storage device in it to keep the time and dates and also the user setup options retained, even if the dashcam is not being powered all the time (bad thing to do anyway). What use is a dash cam that cannot remember the time, and date to validate any footage of an accident that you might be involved in. My own dashcam has that and when power is removed the internal circuit detects that and starts a timer after X seconds will switch off, unless power is once again restored, and then it stays on and does not switch off. When it switches, it also makes a dinging noise to let me know it is switching off. If the USB charger was getting very hot to the touch, then again I'd be happy to accept that it was consuming far too much power and so was faulty, but none of this seems is happening so what I think may be happening is that the charger originally had a small electrolytic capacitor connected across its input to allow any small minor hiccups in the supply such as a momentary voltdrop and because the OP has not been pulling out the charger from the 12V socket, it has remained powered up and as such the capacitor has now suffered from the excessive heat that builds up in a car during summer months the electrolyte in the capacitor has dried up and can no longer store any power. Hence why the new charger with a new capacitor in it does not disconnect when the start kicks in. If this is the actual failure mode of the charger, the OP was lucky, sometimes they can just become a resistor and keep drawing more power than the chargers should do, another reason why such devices should never be left plugged to a live feed. There is somewhere on this forum a thread about dashcams and when they are required to be left on, there is a special kit that houses a small rechargeable battery that charges when the car is being driven and has switch on it to switch from normal mode to the unattended mode in which mode it is fed from the small battery and does not then drain the car battery.

When you're quite sure that this problem has been solved and everything is as it should be, plug the old USB charger in. If it is faulty as you say, then as soon as stop start kicks in the old fault should arise.

toot ... sorry to hear about your health issues ... i admire your knowledge you know that ... and thank you for day i arrived here tom ba

On an earlier car I added a 2nd battery, placing it in the boot and running heavy-duty battery leads through the inside of the car in the door sills and connected in parallel with the battery in the engine compartment to cope with freezing nights. This was because I was working on the buses on the early shift I had to get the buses started and warmed up so that the drivers and conductors arrived, they had nice warm buses to take out and so the passengers could ride in comfort. That meant on freezing days I had plenty of power to crank the engine until it fired into life. I sold the car a few years later, still with the 2 batteries fitted, and I had zero problems, and that is essential exactly the same as fitting a larger capacity battery.

Well its my understanding, that your car or indeed any car can handle a larger capacity battery as long as it can physical fit on the battery tray and the connection leads will fit onto the battery OK. It is not always a necessary thing to recode the system when going from a smaller battery to a larger one, as the battery will not deliver any more amps to the starter motor, as that is governed by Ohms Law and the starter motor has not been changed and neither has the voltage, so the resistance of the starter will remain the same. The battery just has the ability to crank for longer periods before it shows signs of loosing power. If the alternator is not capable of providing much in the way of increased amperage output, it would just mean that a flat battery that is larger, will take longer to become fully charged. What is not acceptable is if a larger battery has been removed, that was correctly coded to the system, but the coding is not changed to reflect the smaller battery, the charging profile might be too aggressive for the smaller battery and cause it to overheat and shorten its life.

At the factory my Roomster was filled with G12 but I believe the dealers topped up with G13.

Took it back up to crail last weekend. New fastest time and trapping a lot faster than it did on the old engine. Vs 500whp corsa c Fn2 civic Astra VXR 2jz s13 Next one was the fun one Vs b204 Astra As you can hear shifting from 2nd to 3rd and didn’t have a 3rd gear. On my mounts they are solid mounts which have spacers on them like this the nut had came off and the spacer came out and lodged itself in the cable engine pulling the linkage out when I changed gear 😂 thankfully an easy fix. Darkside wanted the car at a show down their way so it went down at the weekend. when the car originally went on this engine it was given a base map then every since then it was remapped remotely on the road so never knew how much power it made. It’s also got some new experimental cams as well and thought why not see how much power it has. Certainly surprised us and explains why it’s faster than it was before! Now on 172 dyno pulls on darksides dyno 😂 Some from the show

solved - part number should anybody else need it is: 4F0973702

If they are giving mixed messages then they have not caught up on the stuff VW / Skoda UK started putting out from July 2023. Maybe read the many threads on here about them dropping the @5 years in the UK for Cam Belt replacements. Maybe avoid places where the Service Desk Staff can not actually get their info from the Master Tech, or leave you having to 'Call a friend or ask on social media. If you get a 1.0 TSI done it is not as expensive as a 1.5 TSI ACT which might get you quotes from £850 - £1,150. (There are places that have even messed up doing 1.0 TSI,s. As seen in the Fabia Mk3 section. Simple enough with the looking tool and follow the correct procedure.) Best you ask at where you might go to have the cam belt changed, see what they quote, if they have the equipment and the knowledge to do it. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/510175-karoq-cam-belt-change-start-saving-now/page/8

Just got the car back from the shop. Now im on 1941sw. Hope everything will go well now. First drive of 16km went without a problem.

I suffer from the same problem my stop/start will only kick in after a long drive. Mine I suspect is my dashcam

Hello John Are you sure it's a drain, and not just a battery in the twilight of its career? How old is the battery and what type is it? Do you have any ancillary components (e.g. a dash cam) or upgraded items that could be wired into a fuse box that are either on, or wired into a permanent live rather than an ignition live? Anything electrical changed recently? Boot light switched on? Gaz

An update. Albeit a late one!! Got fed up messing about with the kit, never really got the car running properly on the last engine rebuild. Decided there were better ways to have fun so had a clear out and sold the lot. Decided to take photography a bit more seriously, after all it should be cheaper than a project car right? Over the past three or four years have upgraded the camera gear for not an inconsiderate amount! Decided I needed another project that would make me money so invested in some real estate and after a slow start due to the planning red tape, my son and I are currently converting and extending a Scottish lodge and have a new build in the pipeline. Image of the lodge below and CGI of the proposed new build.