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Some people need help because they have not the common sense they were born with. They do not know a run flat tyre has blown out so in comes TPMS. They moan has no low screen wash warning. They ask why the low oil warning came on when the car had a service only 10,000 miles ago. Ask why the coolant warning came on. They ask why the Service indicator is telling them so many days til an Inspection and the car was only bought months ago and it had. Service. They walk and drive among us and some stuff now on cars is to protect us from the not very bright or interested. Keep them a bit safer might keep us. But then they never bother reading the Owners manual. Checking tyre pressures or if the lights work. They expect a warning. Like a red car showing they are too close. Or a beep that they are reversing into something. Or a warning the passengers seat belts are not on.

I've been watching and reading a few articles about how the price of EV's have plummeted. Which get's me a little annoyed for three reasons: 1: These articles and videos are mostly by armchair expert speculators with no practical experience themselves, and 2. Why do people always use extremes as the norm ? 3. The forecourt prices certainly haven't reflected these recent drops. For all sorts of reasons, used car prices have been all over the place since Covid struck. One commentator blamed this, that and t'other for the price of EV's plummeting but really? Are the prices of used ICE and hybrids not plummeting too? Let's find out. So rather than listen to these armchair experts speculate and look at their CAP value books which themselves are just guides, why not use a real world example to see how the market has chaged. I sold our Karoq in the summer, so lets use that. 1. I bought the car Nov 2019 for a fraction under £25k after discount ( the list back then was a few quid under £30k.) 2. I sold the car to a large online retailer back in late summer 2023 for £22500. That meant the car depreciated £2500 in 3.5yrs. I of course was very happy,but new that wasn't normal, it was an insane price. The retailer put the car up for sale at £24k. That was 5 months ago, almost to the day. 3. I've just obtained another quote to sell that car - I added 2000 miles to the mileage as that's all it'd have done in that time. How much do you reckon the same dealer has quoted me online? £13825 😲 So in the past 5 months, our old Karoq has dropped £8675 in value. Ouch ! These large price drops definitely don't just apply to EVs. 4. But it's not a horrendous drop, rather it's just the market returning to normal. The car originally listed at £30k four years ago, and it's now worth say £14k which represents depreciation of around 45-49% - perfectly normal ( maybe a little better than normal considering it's a Skoda ). So what's all the fuss about used prices 'nose-diving' ? Imagine having budgeted for a new car - you placed your order say 6mths ago, you're about to take delivery, and you find your current car is now worth around £8000 less than you thought it would be. Ouch !!! What about dealers - do we have sympathy for them, after all they may have stock they bought at a high price and haven't been able to shift. Err, not from me. I've just looked on Autotrader for cars similar to the car I sold and which I would have been offered £13825 if I were to sell it today. The dealers are asking from £20k for it. ( some asking much higher ) So one tip for anyone looking to buy a car right now, especially a used car, is know exactly how much it's actually worth. Yes the dealer may have bought it when the prices were high, then again, they may have bought it recently hence there's a potential huge profit margin you can negotiate with. Some of the prices still being asked are eyewateringly expensive.

A couple for yesterday's visits to Idle Valley and Danes Hill nature reserves...

Yep this ^^^ some good old fashioned discipline - it will help them learn a skill for life.

Take their shoes off once you strap them in and tell them not computer devices for 1 day every time they kick the car seat.

I promised to drive my wife this morning. Gee, it was sub-zero. I by-passed her little frozen VW. Fired up my Bear and switched on all the HOT buttons. Ready to go in a few minutes. No de-icer needed. I love it.

I bought my Karoq after driving a low-down Astra estate for some 8 years. Putting aside toys, tyres and wheels - the key thing that struck me as a 69yr old with a dodgy back, was being able to get into the thing without groaning. My friend frequently gives me a lift in his Octavia estate and climbing aboard is a real pain. After a lifetime of driving various company cars, I would say that the Karoq is the most comfortable.

i will try to post them here the next days...

Respect to Marilyn Carr from Dundee. Born in 1941 without arms and not because of thalidomide. She lived life to the full using her feet and was a typist, drove a standard Mini using her feet before years later she had adaptions on vehicles. She married a pilot and also flew planes. She was a supporter of Douglas Bader and his and other charities. BLESMA among them. Helping people get adaptions. But then many drive with disabilities, and some systems on cars when built can be set to assist. Steering assistance or brake assistance increased or decreased being pretty usual. Years back it was maybe Mechanical pedal and steering adaptions or the lights / stalks where now it can be electrical / software that makes the difference.

Yes Scotland can. Wales & Northern Ireland as well, but England is up a creak and failed to act quickly in ordering paddles. But then there are objectors to more Pumped Storage in Scotland just this week, another stoochy then to the Pylons, the battery storage and more solar farms. I say first and foremost cut energy to those who object and are more concerned by their view than the cost of living / energy. What makes me laugh about many in new builds in the countryside is their property is built on what used to be agricultural land / countryside. a few short years and Scotland's only Nuclear Power Station will close & there is no new one on the horizon. As it is we are paying for the clean up of what there was for hundreds of years to come and that is in the energy bills we pay now, as well as for green projects not yet approved and objected to and delayed for decades.

Whatever device you are currently using to read this - just take a look at the list of updates. You think they are all there for new features? No, they are there to correct errors. Do the software engineers ever say "That's it, we've cracked it, there need be no more updates". - Chance would be a fine thing. The more complex the software, the more errors. And you want to trust your life to it. God help you.

That would be a better option and will help the user efficiently.

Thanks for raising. ill get them added later. Life would be easier for everyone if the models were the same name Ie the Slavia is based on the scala. So a sub forum might be under its manufactured parent. scala > slavia. Etc.

Why do you manually release the EPB? I don’t touch the brake system; it releases when it goes into D and I drive off and fully activates the brake when it goes back into P.

Exciting news, finally took the plunge after a few years of Superb ownership to get my Karoq next week. The superb has been an absolute treasure and has clocked up 140,000 almost trouble free miles. As well as looking forward to a more modern design, with lots of toys, I'm really looking forward to moving back to petrol. 1.5 DSG (obvs - can't go back to manual) Ive spent the last few hours reading round the Karoq pages (and obviously scaring myself about the problems before reminding myself about general car forum content.) Mostly reading about the timing belt conundrum, but its all good. I will miss the superb though, she has been an absolute legend of a car. I test drove the Edition model, and whilst I loved the sunroof, I couldn't cope with the road noise, and more importantly the 19" rims with 40 profile tyres. I told the guy at the dealership, I am 50 years old not 17!, I want a soft ride, and tyres that won't shred/warp/burst/blister every time I go out on Britain's roads. I said I would buy it if he would supply a lifetime of free tyres. I have instead opted for the SE-L.

Not the easiest slot to find. Open glovebox and, using a torch, look inside on the right hand side. Skoda only advise using a full size card Joe

You may have vision issues, that's why you are writing with big bold red letters. Don't worry, the other topic was deleted or will compleately modified, since we ''solve things" in another 2 topic you can write anything you want because i will not see it. I wonder why i haven't see you in the other 2 Skoda forums in GR, now i know the reason, you couldn't stay there more than a week. Keep your pordoyaba, we here buy Koni for 2 reasons, they are good quality and have A' class repair service, drivers with tons of practical experience and pros recommend them.

Thank you Guys for the info.. Re Service.. I had a VRS Octavia went for first MOT they claimed the back discs needed replacing £400 then hit me with the front discs needed replacing at £750 six years ago.. I refused to get the front ones done..Took it to another garage who found NOTHING wrong with the discs ......My son has the car now and has had seven or so MOTs with same brakes /discs and they are not needing replaced... So I never went back to them inc any service my Skodas required or bought from them They said discs were made of poorer material than old cars which I argued about. ......

Yes, I am connecting to the bulkhead point. Not sure entirely why - is it because of where the current is monitored by the system on the terminal? I possibly did not note that point when first using charger... so many things to know!

When you are charging the battery are you connecting the -ve from the charger to the dedicated point on the bulkhead and not to the battery -ve terminal.

I'm really not sure but as I had the bonnet open for a long while trying to see if there was any way to measure the static current with it closed I wondered if it was just warning me that the battery was running down to a more critical level? On the other hand I have had it on trickle charge again all night so it was fully charged (about 12,8v) till a few hours ago when I took it off.

Can the world really manage without fossil fuels for evs without going nuclear?

742 is the latest for your MIB 1800 is for other versions , not yours

Dear all, it's fixed. It's like driving a new car. I love reving it in 2nd and 3rd. Thanks to everyone who contributed For anyone contemplating this repair, this is my feedback. 1.If I did this again it would take 15 minutes. 2.Get the right replacement part number ( stamped on the lambda sensor itself ). I ordered the wrong one first time. Ebay £22 3. You need a 22m slotted socket to get the sensor out. Ebay £7 4.Take the battery out for better access to the plug. 5. wear some tight fitting rubberised gloves to save your knuckles. ( I used gardening gloves ) 6. Pull the plug off the metal bracket. It's held by a rubber plug thing. You can push this back on after you have the new sensor. 7.Getting the plug seperated is the real problem. Squeeze hard with your left hand, while pushing a flat-head screwdriver on the tang thing. There's a YT vid on this. Once you have the technique, it's brute force. These were invented by the devil to make you curse out loud. 8.Use some copper anti-seize grease on the thread of the new sensor. 9.Screw in the new sensor before you connect the plug so you don't twist the cable. 10. Secure any slack in the new cable using zip-ties ( mine was longer ) and route it the same way back to the plug. Enjoy driving again.

We often come back the RTFM acronym... 😂 It happened to me recently...

Changing gearbox oil is completely unnecessary. However since you seem 'emotionally' determined there is a threaded plug on the side of the gearbox which serves both as a filling point as well as a level guide, basically you put oil in until it comes back out, then replace the plug. Topping up is all you need to do since the oil that is already in it will be perfectly usable. It's been mentioned on here so many times it's tedious but gearbox oil does not 'age' and 'go off' because it's in a sealed environment inside the gearbox, it doesn't get pumped, hot or contaminated, it just splashes about a bit, any fine metallic particles simply sink to the bottom where they remain undisturbed in perpetuity. Old gearbox oil is just as effective a lubricant as new gearbox oil.

So are we all stupid to use driver assistance systems ? I see stupid people everywhere like those who smoke cigarettes

There is a lot to look at, glad you found them.

similar, incompetent, answer i got from Czech's helpline: most obvious messed to DAB/DAB+, because by FM's RDS standard can't be transferred any logos use then first, Mib2 link, more over it contains also -SE- while other twos only -VW- and -SK- and renamed stl.1vw to stl.sqlite form Mib2 archive can be opened by DB Browser (SQLite) while other twos not, as You mentioned

The first time I drove a car with EPB, a rental Seat, I admit, I had no idea WTF I was doing. I kept pulling the switch up at lights, pushing it down when I pulled away. I had no idea it automatically went on and off. I also couldn’t for the life of me workout how the cruise worked, so I downloaded the manual and that also put me straight on the brakiness.

Yes, I think we're all aware of the 737 MAX saga. However, no one mentioned anything about relying 100% on the computer systems to fly an aircraft. Where did you get that from? The systems are there as pilot aids, all of whom use them throughout the flight. You won't find a commercial pilot who would want to fly without the systems, or advocate totally disabling them to fly rogue, even if it were possible. Equally none will pretend they can sit there and let the computers control literally everything, even if that were possible. Same with assistance features in the car, driver aids, not driver substitute.....there are occasions when a driver (or pilot) may experience an 'episode' or lose consciousness at the helm, that's when a bit of artificial assistance may well avert disaster. "Self driving mode" is a different thing again, no sane person would go near it at this stage of technology. Those vehicles currently featuring it shouldn't be on the road. It would be nice if folks could just maintain some perspective.

0.55 amps would be what you would see if you measured the current draw at the battery terminal with an in line current meter or clamp meter unless you took the correct precautions to allow the systems to shut down. You need to engage the bonnet lock catch with a screwdriver or similar to fool the vehicle that the bonnet is closed after setting up your current tester, then lock the vehicle with the remote and take current readings straight away whch will be the 0.55 amps, then after 5 minutes and 20 minutes, it should drop to a lower current within 5 minutes and to the proper standby current of around 30-45 mA within the 20 minutes, my car does it within 5 minutes but many say its longer. It sounds like you have a battery drain but I did not want you chasing a false trail, equally the warning lights were normal until the car had been driven; it should not have happened with the back up battery but something must have disconnected. I would suspect what you did to "register" the battery, do you have a print out of what coding the battery management module has?

Posted yesterday at 20.38 Yes, the vehicle is repairable salvage with no structural damage, no different to flood damage or door lock and steering lock broken from theft or cambelt failure.

You have totally confused me and that is far too much for my head to take today. I answered your question regarding Copart in the affirmative, I cannot answer your questions regarding the insurance companies as you would have to address them to the companies and not me, I am not a mind reader. Now you may not have been asking me, they could have been general questions to the forum but once again nobody but the insurers could answer them.

There is extra metal work in the roof for cars with factory roof rails.. Items no. 6&7 in this diagram......(for the estate version) Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Are cars with the spec/colour you want really rare to warrant this work? I’d be looking for another car, personally. Not a criticism of you but, every forum I’ve been on over the years seems to be full of people about to buy compromised - in some way - cars and asking about work to make them what they actually want. To me, just look for one that actually meets your expectations. Unless of course it’s something mega rare. Which this isn’t 🤷🏻‍♂️

Yeah this has just gone round and round hasn’t it. Each to their own, some like the driving aids some don’t, thread done now?😘

The three low volume beeps are a warning that the battery is close to not being able to start the engine. the U140600 fault code suggests that the car is detecting a higher than expected current draw. What was the reason for changing the battery? What non-standard electrical items are fitted to the car i.e. dash cam, phone charger, anything plugged into the 12V sockets?

The stock ones that came with the welcome kit. I feel they do the job pretty well, for now at least.

Welcome. You might have seen my posts on here already about the 🤬 wheels and tyres. I’m of a ‘more senior’ age and bought a 2020 Sportline Karoq in May, having been forced out of our lovely Freelander by Mr Khan. We hated the 19in Bridgestones, you could feel every single hole and bump in the road so within a month had changed them for Michelin CrossClimates, absolute revelation, chalk and cheese experience and what’s more Significant Other is happy as well. And it was a lot cheaper than replacing with smaller rims and tyres

A fairly safe bet to say that if his lips were moving the words coming out were not true, occasionally by coincidence the BS generator does come out with something truthful. The rivnuts will be present in the structure underneath the roof skin, factory shells with the roof rail option specified are built using a pre-pierced roof panel for the rails to be fitted further down the line, those without have the plain roof but the fixings remain underneath it. The dealers can retrofit roof rails and there is a drilling template made for the job, however their only interest is selling finance and to a lesser degree warranties, the vehicles are just a vehicle (pun intended) to do that and having to (be seen to) offer (begrudging) after sales service is the cost of doing business.

I agree. It looks terrible. The corners of the display extending beyond the shader looks bad. Actually that display shader looks like it's taken from current mk3 and tried to fit to the new display. Unfortunately it is not a preproduction thing..

I'm not an expert, but I installed it for Octaiva MK3 and Scala. Both work. Coding was necessary for Octavia. The Scala kit worked without . A link would be helpful. I installed this camera: https://aliexpi.com/9GA3 Scala: first run. Everything connected Ignition on - set reverse gear. Disconnect camera - reconnect The radio/multimedia system restarted. - self The rear camera view works. That's what I did for myself

Isn't your engine basically from then or before, what differences, extra or improvements did VW make to the actual engine by the time yours was made, again not testing you just asking. Off on a tangent - you would not like VW's 1.2 TSI engine then as the computers are just about fully in charge and I used to hear all sorts of different noises from the engine bay until I stopped listening. See below for just one example, I am not sure any of the figures given are accurate but I have never checked I just wait for it to pass or just drive off.

If the the car is parked in 1st gear, start the engine, put it in reverse while the clutch in pressed. Does it still run? Or does it cut off (a few secondes) after you very gently lift your foot of the clutch pedal? Is your instrument cluster still working if it cuts out and the time on it still set after?

Another option would be a broken wire / connector that moves around when the engine tilts when going into reverse. Often those who have a direct connection between the chassis en the engine.

On our last trip to Scotland we stopped off at the Beinn Eighe car park near Torridon, hoping to see the local celebrity - Callum the Stag. He was there and was very happy to pose for photographs, and he took quite a liking to the Karoq. 71 plate Skoda Karoq Sport Line 1.5 TSI DSG in metallic Race Blue. (If you type Callum the Stag into Youtube you can see several videos shot by other visitors to the car park.)

Latest project completed on Gandalf - added ambient lighting to the inside of the door pockets, so I can actually see wat stuff is in there. Wiring is piggy backed off the door warning light, so it turns on and off with the door open/close. All 4 door pockets now have ambient lighting 😁

Advisory is an old chestnut. I was advised my tyres only had 4mm of tread left and the brake pads only had 40% linings left. Us old uns who owned agricultural 60s Vivas and Anglias are not taken in by these selling techniques. My keyfob batteries are coming up to 7 years old although the range is shorter.