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Oh - your using a mac... That will mess things up as OSX add extra files which stop the SD card working. If possible, use a PC otherwise I think you'll need to use a program like CleanMyDrive on the SD card after extracting. Top level directory should just have a directory called maps and no other files.

One thing that is really important. Keep the catch lubricated and also try to lubricate the catch wire going back to the pull handle if you can.

I bought my Octavia SE 1.0 litre in August 2019 when it was coming up to a year old. I had to think long and hard before part exchanging it for a Karoq SE Drive a few weeks ago. The Karoq is also just over a year old. I have to say that the Octavia was probably the best car I have ever owned. I have had many Fords in the past. My previous 4 cars have been Fabias but for all round comfort, space, performance and reliability, the Octavia was the best (even with the 1.0 litre engine). My only problem was the rear washer kept getting bunged up but apart from that, no problems. Once the car was out of warranty I avoided main dealer servicing. My local independent did the oil and filter changes with me providing the genuine VW spec oil. As part of the trade in deal, I removed the full size spare wheel and toolkit with the intention of putting it into the Karoq or selling it (I thought it might not fit which it doesn't). I'll put it on ebay in the next few days. I bought a skinny spare and tools which fit the Karoq perfectly. A gunge kit is little more than useless in my opinion. So far the Karoq has been fine. Getting in and out is much easier than the Octavia but you would expect that. The Karoq forum has answered a few queries I had, how the automatic handbrake works being the most important. I'll keep an eye on the Octavia forum in case I am able to contribute to the discussions. Thank you.

As mentioned greasing/lubricating these sorts of points on your car would prevent a repeat expense. White lithium grease is recommended as it does not drip and repels water. £5-7 depending where you buy. I do my cars twice a year or so, all the door hinges, locks and bonnet catch.

Why not get the car, and have the roof wrapped in clear vinyl so you don't lose the pano roof effect?

...probably cheaper to buy the SEL drive, and then just get a satnav for it....cost a lot less than fixing a pan roof!!

@Planetse is correct about the cambelt drive, but the 5 year change interval was withdrawn last year.

Latch or lever to open the bonnet or hood regardless of no Frunk likely at the other side, and pull twice, as they do with BMW,s /MINI,s. (Thomas would know just because not stupid!)

Unfortunately, unless the led bulb has a parallel load resistor to mimick a conventional bulb , I think it requires coding to avoid the bulb out warning popping up.

Joined the club. 👍

Ok, trip to the garage, 2hrs of work, and bonnet is now open. All done under £100 and no damage done (I think they have taken out the bottom grille and worked their way up to the lock), but it's going to be the lesson I'll remember till the rest of my life

I doubt any Fabia mk2 had electric folding mirrors. If it does, the control will be part of the left/right/heat thumbweel on the driver's door as an extra position that has a folded mirror symbol in an extra position similar to this Try looking in your manual, you can download these from the skoda website if you don't have a physical one.

I know he has all the scores on the doors but with stuff i disagree. A wet road when it is not raining but has been like a cold road might not and often does not use more fuel in an ICE or use more energy from a BEV. Less grip / traction is basically less friction. Also warmed up ICE vehicles especially a turbo likes cooler denser air. Maybe tiny affects and Lights, wipers etc means poorer efficiency. As to rear wheel drive and the improved feeling of steering. Well maybe sometime, as long as the back does not squat and the front goes light. Tesla may not. 0-62 mph times. Really, 2 seconds quicker up someones back end, and do they really do it when nobody to be impressed? Accelerating out of a roundabout. I wish more with Tesla or any RWD car would. Funnily any i see are usually dilly dallying. Up you jacksy though if they want to show you they Can take you like a king, then let them go they are Road Kings stopping you get on up the road and on your way. Must be a 'Counting the miles thing'.

Can't think of anything the L&K spec has over my SE L Drive apart from the panoramic roof and possibly electric memory seats. I just went for the latest, best specced car that didn't have a sunroof.

100,000 miles. Rolled over yesterday (nearly missed it !) 😀.

If you didn't like the diesel before, you are still going to find them noisy if you get another. They have got a bit more refined but at the end of the day there is more noise and vibration from a diesel than a petrol, especially if you are used to a petrol engine which you can barely tell is running most of the time. For most of us that are used to diesels it's not an issue but on the extremely rare occation I get in a modern petrol I can appreciate how quiet it is at standstill. Driving around you will still hear the same road noise whichever way you go as modern cars are very well insulated from the sounds in the engine bay.

I wish mine could be soooo shiny after several months 😁...

Have you got a registration as different fuses are powering different things depending on specific engine. Edit: Ive taken the reg to be your user name - Octaiva 2015 VRS 2.0 TSI CHHB engine. Please post an exact list of fault codes, and also which of the 3 fuse boxes fuse 9 we are talking about Edit again: Interior fuse box SC9 is 15A and does all-wheel-drive control unit which yours isnt, so im going to assume engine bay fuse SB9 10A which is as follows; SB9 - 10A - engine electronics (for engine code CJSA, CJSB, CHHA, CHHB) Fuse SB9 feeds the following components on a rt/gn wire (changes colour in engine harness to either rt, rt/ws or ws/gn) - N80 charcoal solenoid, N205 Intake camshaft control valve, N318 Exhaust camshaft control valve, V51 Coolant circulation pump I would eliminate the easy ones, disconnect the charcoal and 2 camshaft solenoids and leaves the water pump, chances are you have water leaking out the pump, up the wiring and causing a short circuit.

230k! This will probably be my last post to this topic with this car 😢

I have to disagree. I have put starship mileage on diesel’s over the years. I currently have a remapped VW diesel 2.0TDI 290bhp from new and now has done 200,000 miles. Runs like new and no oil burning. Going back to the OP a friend recently bought a Tiguan with the 150bhp Evo engine. It’s the quietist diesel engine i have heard to date. I’m sure the 200bhp evo engine is quite similar.

Thanks everyone; handy seeing the branding on the wipers, certainly nothing on mine so perhaps they’re not true Aerotwin? New ones arriving tomorrow, let’s see what they look like

Yes as any kind of engine fault will stop the cruise and stop start working generally.

2010 Octavia 1.4 is most likely the EA111 1.4tsi and has a camchain. Futhermore its a mk2 Octavia, this is an Octavia Mk3 forum. EA211 came in with the mk3 Having said that if his car's done 110,000 miles without a chain change, he's been extremely lucky given the history of the EA111 series. Bet it rattles on cold starts.

I always used to do my own servicing and repairs until my work supplied company cars which were serviced for me, Upon retirement I bought new vehicles with a service plan, but my current Karoq was recently 4 years old and I used a local independant garage which I trust and have used for other vehicles over the years. I booked their oil change service and MOT which I reasoned would inspect all the items that needed to be checked for safety purposes. As the car was low mileage, I did not get the spark plugs changed or any of the filters this time. The total cost was £195 including VAT.

Obviously I'd rinse them with clear water afterwards. I understand your concern but never experienced problems but only do it once in a blue moon.

I've had two Roomsters in the past, both with fixed glass roofs. I miss this feature dreadfully on my Yeti. Were I in Prezafab's position, I would certainly consider an L&K with no leak damage and taping up the sunroof with Gorilla or Helicopter tape.

Luxury VED for EV comes in next April. All BEV registered before then, regardless of price, will only need to pay regular price from 2025. Got until March 2025 to buy a EV above £40k Or avoid £40k+ list price second hand cars from 2025.

100% belt and Skoda recommended a FIVE year change.

Don't use washing up liquid on a car, but just use on wipers (easiest if you remove them completely and wash in a sink using hot water). The idea is to remove polish/wax/road grime etc. I've been known to use brake cleaner on occasion as that removes contamination easily. Obviously on a car generally you don't want to strip protective wax/polish. Use only car products.

There's a Bosch logo on the wiper if its a genuine aerotwin Once wiper rubbers have developed a direction memory theres usually little hope of fixing them. On some skoda models the front wipers park and occasionally move slightly up to help stop memory developing Avoid getting polish/wax/rainx/etc on the rubber. Wash with soapy water (use washing up liquid)

You're using Columbus instructions on your Amundsen. Try following these instructions instead. You can use the file you've already downloaded

Possibly anti stall feature on the 1.0tsi. I noticed the idle speed picks up when preparing to pull away on a 1.0tsi kamiq I hired.

Budget? I bought a used chair from these guys - https://corporatespec.com/ They have a lot of very high spec stuff which is discounted but still not cheap.

The only Tesla Ive been in a friend demonstrated the acceleration (Dual motor) for about 3 seconds (then ran out of road) I felt physically sick, a feeling of intense nausea that took a good hour to get over. I cannot see the point and I can see this could be very dangerous in the wrong hands. I'm surprised that insurance is affordable. I did not like the minimalist interior at all, the fake wood trim reminded me of the stick on vinyl wood trim on my base 1976 Polo.

Fuse 47 is rear wiper

Unfortunately for many mechanics it seems to be rocket science. And how do you know it's required, is you haven't measured it? Usually measurements and adjustment are done at the same time. And i don't think i remember a single case, where no adjustment at all was needed. Some misalignments might not be felt by most drivers, but some will still feel there's something wrong. This is one of the things that it's good to do once in a while. In case of multilink suspension, like in vRS, there's always some adjustment of the rear possible. Even in case of torsion beam SOME adjustment is possible. E.g. if you hit a pothole, it's possible that whole beam will be misalligned a bit, as mounting points are kind of bean shaped, which means one side can move towards rear of the car. This can be adjusted. I actually had this case in one of my previous cars (Leon 5F, so basically same rear suspension, as in "lesser" Octavia models). In some cases, some cars, it's even possible to adjust angles, that manufacturer didn't mean to be adjustable officially. For example, as mentioned before in this thread, by adjusting whole subframe, but also using i.e. eccentric bolts for dumpers etc. Unfortunately there's very few mechanics that know how to do that and even care about proper allignement.

I've got to the do this myself. Thanks to all that have contributed to this I might have a go myself. I've already had the cambelt and water pump done and the main stat was changed too. But still have the cool running issue. So it has to be the dsg stat 👍

Might I politely suggest that's generalised nonsense. I owned and drove this for 8 years and 238,00 miles from new until a low speed collision in the city wrote it off. It was running as sweetly then as when it was new. It was on the original turbo and the head had never been lifted. I thrashed it from the point at which I'd completed running it in. I towed a very large caravan with it on occasions, spent long periods at 100 mph on the Autoroute, squealed round an open road race circuit in France, commuted in it, drove it off road, etc...

@nta16 Honestly some great advice that I might act up on, The fantasy itself has come from the modern day car scene you need to have a car with crazy BHP to be seen as cool, I think I will starting off actually follow your advice and then hopefully when I get some NCD Under my belt I would enjoy to have a nice daily with some decent performance as well as you mention a older car to not forget how far cars have come.

That fuse is for the heated windscreen, and as you dont have the relay or relay holder either, id say you arent missing any fuse from there. There is also no male terminals protruding upwards in either of the locations on that socket.

I’d quite like to upgrade to a VC, but having “used” (that’s a laugh) a head unit with virtual buttons, they’re an absolute PITA. I also just can’t justify what, £1,500 for hardware - £700 of the VC and similar for the Columbus 2.5, plus fitting of course, so I’m guessing £2k all up? I can afford it, just can’t get my head around the cost-benefit. I’m happy with the satnav as the regular updates are great and the Canton system sounds amazing for an OE system. I’m also a bit anal when it come to keeping a car BS = bog standard, which was one of the reasons why I chose to go down the Racechip route as opposed to a remap. Just my opinion of course, as I’d never have the brass-neck to tell someone they’re idiots for splashing out that that amount to upgrade their car.

Possibly worn valve stem seals/guides?

Battery. The first sign of a failing battery is the Stop/Start stops working. Might have something to do with the other faults as well.

The gearbox specialist who rebuilt our 6 speed Octavia manual box has seen and rebuilt hundreds of auto boxes. He describes the 6 speed Wet DSG as a sublime design and a fantastic bit of engineering. His opinion of the 7 speed dry clutch DQ200 is that it is a load of rubbish. But says he doesn't complain as he gets so many in for repair its bread and butter for him. If you actually research what's involved in a Dq200 clutch change youll find its complex requiring specialist tools and skills. I see there are actually 2 generations of DQ200, maybe the gen 2 is a significant improvement on the gen 1.

I bought my car with a part service history recently from a Skoda main dealer, part being a part Skoda digital service history 7 it was an approved car with a years skoda warranty attached. I waited until after I'd bought my car, when the new log book arrived, I then checked it's previous MOT history using the front ref numbers on the log book. I then realised one of the previous mot's was with an independent garage at the time that service was missing. I then rang that garage up, explained to them that I was trying to find this missed service. They informed me that they had serviced it, along with the mot. They then kindly emailed me confirmation of this missing service, without the previous owners name & address on it to keep within the gdpr rules. My car now has an fsh. I did get a bit lucky & took the car on knowing that one service was missing from it's previous history. All a fsh means to me is that it's hopefully been serviced to a minimum standard prior to me buying it. I also tend to go from the general condition of the car, too & price, regardless of a fsh. As a lot of people just don't keep receipts, even if they'd had it serviced on a regular basis with an independent or service it themselves. It's possible it could have been on a long life service, up to 2 yearly or set service intervals, yearly, as far as I know. My car is a 1.5tsi, was initially on LL service schedule, I've switched it to yearly, my preference for what oil costs. It also had an earlier service done within it's history, due to it being previously part exchanged to a Skoda garage & they serviced it early to then sell it on again.

So... quick update on this... All finally sorted, new (lower) sump fitted by Liverpool Skoda and all costs picked up by Christchurch Skoda (dealer where I bought the car). Glad the issue is something that is easily fixed and hopefully won't be repeating itself. Car was off the road from 7th Jan to 9th Feb which isn't great, but I'm glad to be back in the Superb. Appreciate the various advice which was all helpful in negotiating getting this sorted 👍👍👍. Rob

No component protection for the climate panel on a mk3... It'll might need coding and basic settings etc running after fitting though.

Missed 87k on the Fabia, and maybe 32k on the Vectra. However, I want to capture 88,888 on the Fab, and 33,333 on the Vectra.

Ordered thermostat Febi 172376 off eBay: £10.94. Removed airbox, battery and battery tray. It might be possible to do this without removing the battery, but I was changing the DSG filter anyway so I did and it made the whole task much easier. Having crimped both hoses, I was able to remove the far hose from the DSG oil cooler then fold the pipe containing what VAG call the "coolant regulator" backwards and underneath the other pipe to the DSG oil cooler which made it much easier to facilitate exchange. Minimal coolant was lost during the process. The thermostat I removed offered no restriction to being blown through and, when dismantled, the wax stat capsule within was seen to have failed. The new unit offered significant restriction, the only flow being through what I presume to be a small hole which allows bleeding of this line. Now the car warms up just as it should, which was just as well as I doubt I would have ever reached the min 35 deg C DSG oil temperature at which the fill level is determined had I left this problem unaddressed. Thanks to the OP and others for describing this problem.