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The engine head is currently at the machining service, they told me they will handle it with maximum quality. They also advised me to consult with the mechanic to replace ALL valve lifters and rocker arms, not just the damaged ones, even if I have to pay extra for it. I called the mechanic, he assured me that he will indeed replace all valve lifters and rocker arms, as well as camshafts, he won't risk anything.

Its only a recommendation, most people including me recognise gear change recommendations is hopelessly out on a lot of occasions and a lower or higher gear is more appropriate. It cannot see the road ahead or anticipate your next move. Use your head and gut feelings, ignore the recommendation if you think its wrong and drive in the gear you feel is best suited to your current situation. If you have a drive mode setting somewhere, change that and that should alter the recommendation thresholds. Don't waste £100 for a diagnostic that won't pick anything up. Maybe ask them to have a look when you have it serviced because a full diagnostic is done as part and parcel of the servicing.

I take the pragmatic view. Any car can have problems to one degree or another and like many other things in life it's only the failures that we ever hear about despite the fact there are many thousands of people who never have an issue. If you want an auto get the auto and if its for business use just make sure you have the correct backup cover should the vehicle develop any problem that will prevent you from earning. To my mind that's more important than losing sleep over potential issues.

I just called into another garage and he have me a 2032 and all worked first time. No need to reset/use emergency key! Thanks all!

as @Gaz said or one of the many suspension creaks that emerge. Pop it into a local specialist, or your local dealer, will be greased bearings, broken bits or a 'feature' mine does it and I get the bearings etc re-greased, or something they do something it stops, til it comes back. However it's not just one direction, it's both, or over bumps etc.

How about a few more superchargers on the Silk Road and the odd windmill, maybe that would be a greener way to get them here. They'd have to reset the odometers though that can be done at the factory

There was alot said a while ago on this subject. After another member mentioned it, I started using 2032s, as long as you keep everything square they fit OK.

Get it up on a ramp and check the condition of all suspension components, bushes, arb links, shock absorbers etc. Some hefty pushing and shoving might identify the squeaky bits. Might just need cleaning up and some silicone spray or penetrating oil applied here and there. Or some bushes or components need changing. A crowbar can be used to check play in bushes.

I see the AI is on the blink again.

Only just caught up with this - it's a cracker! Looks like a lovely well kept low miles example. With the rear beam the best way to deal with the rust would be to get it off the car, blasted and powdercoated, but you're in the realms then of having to change axle bushes, then all the brakes and wheel bearings need to come off, it's a slippery slope, ask me how I know!! Good luck with it all.

Like my car, this thread has gone way further than I expected 🤣 Can anyone provide any concrete examples of injection system damage due to running out of diesel?

Me too! 🤔 Not sure who you mean 😂

So here's a few more pics of the bits as I unpack them and try and reduce some of the clutter. The rear springs have rubber mounts top and bottom, standard fare. Autodoc had a mish mash of different brands, so it's "Magnum" for the lowers, and "Topran" for the...tops: The Eibach rear springs, R21093: With a dry fit of those rubber mounts: I expect the stub is there for alignment when installed to wherever it goes on the rear subframe. Then it's the rear damper bits, some top mounts, which I ended up going with Sachs for: With the standard bump stop and covers, Febi Bilsteins for both: No sooner had I started to pack these all up and tucked to the side, then these arrived: The front dampers! So the 23-254343 B6 Damptronics. The Eibachs are R16391, so a quick check for general fitment: With the associated gubbins for the damper, bump stops, covers, and bearings and top mounts, SKF top bits and Febi Bilstein again for the bump stop and covers: Now, I will probably be forever debating whether I should have stuck with B4s or even OEM for the sake of maintaining comfort. I spent a good few days scouring the internet and gauging up prices. If I based the prices on https://www.bilstein-shocks.co.uk/ as an example, then a B4 set was coming to £1137.42, and B6 £1232.10, so pricing wasn't going to be a massive deciding factor (it was £300-£400 difference, then sure). It was a then a case of trying to beat that, and with some creative eBaying, there are these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155045005935 for £499.95. Some additional strategy involved me adding these on my watch list, and waiting to see if the seller would send me an offer, which they did to end up with the £474.95 that I ended up paying. I felt it was too hard to ignore. So I'm now committed to the B6s. Technically, there's nothing stopping me now from assembling the front struts as all the components are there, so I'll be back to rummaging in my garage for my spring compressors and then see where the mood takes me during the week, otherwise it'll be something for the weekend! Maintenance: £799.83 (+£474.95) Upgrades: £676.49 Miscellaneous: £604.95

Thanks, it took 4 key words on google.

I did have something, I'll see if I can find it again, I never posted it because I honestly did not think anyone would be interested. Oh I see you have found something on it already.

OK, Found it, major U-turn. Not White Van man they can keep on putting their gear in them. Sole Trader, Jet-Skiers.Mountain bikers, Horse rides.

I suspect you will also need to tell the car with something like VCDS it's got LED rear lights or you will get bulb fail warnings.

It is the Truth about electric vehicles and the ICE BMW X5 he was driving about in. Too heavy / big cars than really many need to kick about in if not a Police Armed Response vehicle which is needed incase heft is required against bad people. They were supposed to be taxed on high emissions, but maybe not enough taxing if they are still being used and much cheapness to buy. even the big tyres are not expensive. ? Are the BEV,s lasting only 3,5 or 10 years? Well that is terrible if the truth of electric vehicles. The DVLA will have the numbers and the SMMT, Office for National Statistics and maybe the Mail Online.

The year 2001 also looks a bit dodgy because the Superb MK2 didn't come out until 2008...and the Superb MK2 with 1.6TDI engine didn't come out until 2010. So it must be 2010 or later.

Looking at buying used. Plenty in my price range with less than 30k on the clock. Looking to renew in the next couple of months, so plenty of time to sus things out.

spray one bush at a time with silicone and see which causes the noise to away. don't forget subframe bushes as well as dampers and spring ends.

For st1 and st2, even for mild st3, not needed. Neither one, lpfp nor hpfp.

He took it out and checked everything and before he took it out he plugged his iPad looking thing into the car. He’s a certified VAG mechanic.

just as an update incase anyone finds this thread. "Clutch tolerances" when plugged in with specialist mechanic. New clutch and flywheel needed. £1600 roughly

Much of muchness. General consciences seems to be that Shanghai and Berlin cars build quality are both very good, but German paint shop is best out of all Tesla plants. For battery, the Model Y RWD out of Berlin get BYD blade LFP battery whereas Shanghai built RWD cards are still CATL LFP. For LR AWD, both use exact same battery. The only advantage is for Tesla to be able to sell more cars with lower labour cost and more uniform production for all other plants. All RHD cars everywhere around the world comes from Shanghai plant.

Things will need recoding, immobiliser, radio, and probably much more.

What makes you believe that? What the garage has said perhaps?

I've seen taillgate rust around the number plate lights a few times, usualy coming from the inside.

Well, it should, but it doesn't. That's exactly the problem.

How could they refuse to take my hard earned money off me, especially when seeing how lovely the car is! it was a rose between thorns though, as there were Porsches and other exotic cars up on the ramps 😍

Possible delays coming for Tesla buyers after a suspected arson attack near the Berlin plant. https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-68479242

Wonderful thing FB, always adding new features.

You need to visit a Skoda or even VW/Audi dealer for specialist help. I doubt anyone here can help. As the coolant reservoir is sealed, I don't think its wise to start removing pipes. Especially as its a cooling system for the electronics and battery and the warning label makes it clear you shouldn't mess about with it only qualified technicians.

Good point, the Fabia will be there. I think....

We're not greedy, and we enjoy what we do 😂

Please describe what you mean by flush the system and flush air?

You may download on your device too - available in My Škoda essentials too. Page 135

Didn’t even know that we got the “rust warranty “ hahah lol I know how fast VAG cars rust, it’s a common thing. They are so bad that we use to joke “vag cars decay faster than bananas “

Your Owner's Manual will tell you fuse locations, sorry I don't have a list for 2011 Superb but I'd expect it to be a standard size blade fuse, the amperage rating of that blade fuse would depend on what else is on the fuseway but it will be on the blade fuse somewhere. Free VWSkoda PDF downloads of the Owner's Manuals from this VWSkoda website if you don't have the handy (no batteries needed, can be viewed in daylight) paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com HTH.

Around 15 years ago, changed the rear pads on my Seat Alhambra thinking I could wind back the pistons using a screwdriver or a pair of grips. Car had done about 85,000 miles from new. After struggling for a few minutes, the screwdriver slipped, caught and tore the rubber boot a few mm. Next day, I bought a wind back tool and finished the job but didn't replace the boot. I ran the car for another 10 years and 65,000 miles without any issue with the rear brakes. The car was always parked in a garage and rarely outside so that may have helped. Wouldn't do that nowadays btw. If the cost of a replacement caliper is only £50, I wouldn't faff about rebuilding it but simply replace it.

Done that (manual handbreak). By far easier is to remove brake line and handbreak cable, and replace the boot and seal on the bench instead of swearing under the car. I'm not sure what do you mean by rebuilding (you do not need to take apart the handbrake system), there are only three parts involved beside the caliper itself - the piston, the seal and the boot. You need a tool to wind back the piston and a plug to seal the brake line while the caliper is away. I used angle grinder wrench (one that you use for removing the cutting disc), the notches indeed match VAG rear brake piston cutouts As I remember the job was to release the boot outside rim from the piston, work handbreak lever until the piston pops out of its thread, remove the boot from the caliper along with the piston, change the seal. To assemble you grease the piston, install the boot into the caliper, force the piston into the boot outer rim halfway and carefully work the piston onto the handbrake thread. Use the tool to screw the piston in. You later fix the boot outer rim to the piston top edge, when it's halfway in. Don't forget to bleed the brakes after reassembly! Good luck!

Had rear wheel arches and estate boot lid done on pfl 2016 mk3 (it was a warranty case). I think the rust starts on the rear corners of the arch, where it meets the bumper. The lid was rusty I suppose on the lower edge (it wasnt apparent, they discovered it when taking in the car). In advance you fix the rust in a warranty claim Now, I see that driver door sill starts developing a bubble. No apparent paint damage observable.

With circa 320 bhp, I get around 21-23mpg on a very short commute and around 36 on a decent run. I’d imagine if it were a 320bhp V8, I'd guess it’d be closer to 10-12mpg, so no complaints here.

Looks very nice in black imo

2018 1.4 SEL Exec Hatchback Manual

Same part number: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115697375766 https://partversal.co.uk/car-parts/product/5787572 Thread about same problem in VW forum: https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/airbag-fault.19639/

All black "painted" suspension parts on mine are looking older than the rest of the car already!

According to a friend who’s an RAC Tech, in their experience, the vast majority of those idiot drivers who run out of fuel, are men.

I'm guessing that the rear most car drove up afterwards 💡 It might even be the plod. How about the front car had uncommanded emergency autonomous reversing? Or its because of Brexit....................... Find a photo and select your own narrative!

I've just taken delivery of a pair of OSRAM Xenarc Night Breaker Laser NextGen D3S +220% Brighter bulbs today - c. £144 on eBay. However, that may not the complete answer to why the Bi-Xenons in my Yeti aren't a patch on what they were when I bought the car 4 years and 22k miles ago. Do you have Dim Low Beam from your Projector Headlights?