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a lot of car places buy the cheapest available connection for all their needs (I work for an ISP doing stuff with network inventory,/asset data and the circuits customers buy and the bandwidth etc etc) and it wouldn't surprise me they have in adequate connections. Then again if they had decent IT departments they would set up local caching so they didnt have to download the same file from the depths of the internet time after time. ALso why are they doing OTA updates if the cars in with them, stick the updates on a USB file you muppets!!!

Loose dipstick tube 🥴 that is service receptionist bull**** 101. Do not drive the car one more mile, have the oil drained, the engine run for 30 minutes on flushing oil and then a oil and filter change and monitor the oil condition like a hawk. What is your usual journey profile? Does the car warm up quickly and the heater work correctly?

Anyone tarting up a car can buy the badges, grills, trim and all the bits and pieces. There was a Briskoda member with a Fabia Mk2 estate elegance diesel turned into a Mk2 vRS petrol look alike with the correct exterior and interior. Same with Monte Carlos. A Crash damaged non Monte Carlo repaired and fitted with the correct Monte Carlo Trim & body trims, shiny black plastic arches and badges. Done by a member who is Body repairer / painter for his daughter. In my young days a worked in a place where we changed Ford Taxis to Ford Ghia Models for resale. I did trim, wheels, paint etc not mileometers. So not common but an accident damaged car which has not had a claim on the insurance might be repaired and if doing one and sourcing parts it is as well to source parts for a more desirable model sometimes. Crooks / Professional crooks do it simply, steal a model and break it and use those parts to rebuild the damaged vehicle. Or the dead easy way, clone the stolen one. Should be easy to spot, part codes, window / glass codes for dates etc. Funnily lots float about on roads for years.

He was finding that charging at home was becoming 'challenging' (I think it was taking longer than previously), so booked it in and had a software update. Didn't go totally smoothly, As I recall it was a "pick it up the next day" kind of problem. As for the Kia, that was a total nightmare. Became a standing joke when he turned up for work in a parade of different courtesy cars (all ICE and entry models). I think he was thinking of junking the whole EV thing, except he had invested in a windmill farm to get cheap 'leccy, so persevered. He now uses an ICE car for a lot of jobs though. The only issue I have ever had with an ICE car updating was when I agreed to it happening whilst parked at a petrol pump. I thought it would be a background update, but instead it immobilised me for quite a long time and I managed to block not only the pump, but all traffic on that side To be fair to the car, it was my own stupid fault.

FWIW, I have a colleague who has had problems with Tesla software too. Although the record for days not on the road, seems to be owned by a colleague's Kia Niro. Spent many, many weeks at the dealers.

Only if vehicle built-in self diagnostic cannot make sense of what went wrong. With simple machines, the error code should get you 90% there: https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_us/GUID-9A3F0F72-71F4-433D-B68B-0A472A9359DF.html The customer can also check and self diagnose: https://teslatap.com/articles/service-mode/

My PHEV went in for a routine service and a software update to do with the battery and general energy use. Because of a DVLA web crash today, I couldn't get my driving licence code for a loan car, so the dealer dropped me off at home instead. It crashed (electronically) during the update and now the car won't start, apparently. The Dealer sounds a little worried and the car is staying with them overnight. Great! Luckily, I have a dinosnore ICE car that will get me about. Almost all my colleagues and friends who have EVs and PHEVs seem to have had a similar problem with their cars having an overnight stay in relation to software updates. The most recent of which was a friend with a Porsche Taycan (although he got a Panamera for a loan car).

can I just point out that the concept of a central dash/infotainment system is nothing new not is the idea of having nothing in front of the driver (ala Tesla not the above pic)

I had the same problem in 2021 and it's a mystery as to how it happened as the problem was that the bracket on the front radar cover was broken (as suggested by ApertureS). I didn't hit anything and the message appeared as I was driving north up the A470 around Merthyr Tydfil after leaving the Cyfarthfa Retail Park. There were no other vehicles nearby and there was no sound of hitting anything in the road. In the retail car park, there's a section I always chose where the spaces are a bit wider and away from the area where most other shoppers park. It's a single row and I park in forwards to make loading the boot easier. The front is facing a small grass verge and then a hedge and there was nothing near the front of the car to damage it. If it was damaged prior to this, could it have worked for a while until the unit moved sufficiently to stop working? There's no sign of any damage on the front. It's possible it could have been kicked on the front by some yob in Cyfarthfa with nothing better to do as it was keyed on the rear nearside door in that car park about 7 years ago. I took the car to Sinclair Skoda in Swansea and they replaced the bracket and calibrated the front assist so it's all back as it should be. They charged £60.00 for the initial diagnostic and £36.00 for replacing the bracket and the calibration, so it cost me a lot less than I thought it would. They charged for only half the diagnostic fee as they found the problem without running the full test.

I’m guessing your dealer is DMG on the N15? Any indicator of emulsification like that on your dipstick is bad news and, potentially, a terminal issue. Did you ask them if they flushed the engine when they changed the oil at 30k? Also, did you ask them how water would enter through a loose dipstick tube? How often do you check the oil level? Has there been no signs of emulsification until your latest check?

Cars tracked and all done there. Now a full service kit, all genuine. Genuine Air, Oil, Fuel, Pollen and wipers. Quantum oil of course. Only 10k on this. Been tracking down a few leaks, boost mostly. Seen weeping here. So put a new seal on the damper, genuine of course. Cleaned all up well and replaced. Egr seal on the intake manifold was suspect too, so again changed it for genuine. All back together and tightened. Tightened and replaced some suspect boost clamps too. Cleaned them all out when I was at it. Replaced the MAF for one off the parts car too. Running much better now, a lot more responsive Replaced the undertray and tec screwed the back onto the subframe as it was lower than I'd like. Plywood somehow holding up still Got some new steel rivnuts for the BAF K brace, seems a better job than the soft aluminium ones, somehow. Sitting well on the new suspension, rides very well and has fantastic roadholding. Can't recommend the ST shock and spring kit enough. Solid rubber wishbone bushes feel fantastic, roadholding is very good too. Few other small things, but bulk of it is up to scratch for now.

This is my 2012 Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo, It is a 1.6 TDI 105 ps model with 89k miles. I bought it on the first of February and have imported it into Ireland since,however it has sat for since due to it being a pain to get insurance. Since it didn't need anything I only clayed and polished the paint,hopefully I will be able to get a remap in the coming months to about 140 ps but I have no other plans for the car. I can't justify doing anything right now as everything on the car is in good condition.

Let’s get some specs 3.6 v6 260ps elegance spec Self Parallel parking sensors front and rear Heated electric memory seats Cruise Full black leather Kessy Plans for the minute are a service as a little overdue. And that’s it haha nice to have a car that doesn’t really need anything straight away. Future plans are the get the bodywork mint, it’s been up and down the motorway pretty much it’s whole life so stone chipped all on front. Some pics

Thankyou. I put my old abs pump back on tonight it was not fun trying not to cross thread those bolts there were a few swears being thrown at it 😆 I'm hoping the breaks don't break me when I try to bleed tomorrow 🙃

Tesla is not known to book people in for anything software related, they prefer to solve remotely by pushing a new OTA update, failing that it's "ranger" to your door, service centre is last resort. So might needed a new charge port or onboard charger? Not sure what's the problem with Kia..... again, doesn't sound like software related. Sounds like dealer or Kia UK doesn't know what's wrong with the car.

Actually, further thought occurs. If you contact a competent tool factor or motor factor (so not Halfrauds) and tell them you want a "brake bleed spanner" they will probably offer a 6mm/7mm single hexagon ring spanner.

Ah bugger.. found it, yes, there..says 0.8🙈

Bottom part of the passenger door b Pillar?

Just wanted to chime in here in case it’s any help to anyone. My 2017 1.4 tsi Kodiaq registered in the UK in Sept 2017 says in the owners manual that the recommended oil for variable servicing is 508 00 (504 00 optional) as it seems to be the case for all 1.4 owners. I’m starting my own servicing this year, so I rang the dealer to see what oil was used during last 2 services. They said OW30, which was a surprise to me as I would have expected a 502 spec oil as recommended in the owners manual for the fixed term annual services that the car was set for. I called a second dealer to find out what they’d recommend if switching to variable service since the car doesn’t do a lot of miles. They looked it up by the reg and said 504 00 0w30 is the recommended oil. They believed 508 00 is for the 2020 models and higher. What I find misleading is that VAG recommend 508 00 in the owners manual for 1.4 tsi engines, and the 1.4 tsi kodiaq was only manufactured up to 2018. I still want to believe 508 00 is the correct oil as stated in the owners manual but I’ll play it safe with a 504 spec since it’s what the dealers are recommending.

I guess if it's a feature not specced and paid for on the original configuration and it's a way for subsequent owners to enable it. But es, it's the way it's going, reminded me of BMW's proposal from last year. Looks like they realised the consumer wasn't going to take too kindly to a monthly fee to heat their bum: https://www.theverge.com/2023/9/7/23863258/bmw-cancel-heated-seat-subscription-microtransaction As far as road sign recognition goes, unfortunately, on my First Edition, you cannot purchase that functionality.

Hello, welcome to the forum. Do you know if that battery has a cooling fan - could it be that?

Yep, anything that they can't see make things harder for them to fix and potentially very expensive to fix as they go about swapping old parts with new parts only to discover that the part they thought would fix it, only to discover it doesn't and move onto the next. I'm still having issues getting all the parts on my car resolved, and doesn't have a fraction of the electronics that an EV has. So while an EV drivetrain might well be far simpler and thus more reliable than an ICE, I predict that EV's when they go wrong will off the road a longer time while they try and get their head around the electronics side of things. Perhaps that's part of the problem with the current situation with Jaguars?

@Rooted Was that 97% downloaded or 97% installed?

i'm still poor 😄 thats the problem

I'm probably wrong, but the person who has this view doesn't have side assist or LCA. I think it's just a new update.

A bit long winded but another angle on using an automatic, he calls the DSG a Robotised-Gearbox.

Short and sweet leaving the group as I have now sold the Skoda good luck to all.

Looking forward to some interesting runs this summer and longish trips in Scotland and North of England with the MINI. I know now just how it behaves for efficiency in colder weather and how to hypermile is if needs must. If i can get an average above 4 miles a kWh on good driving fun roads that will do. The Maxxis Premitra AP3 All-Season tyres have been great. 195/55 R 16 instead of the OEM this model had of 205/45 R 17 Goodyear Eagle F1 (almost no treads or grip / traction), then the same size Vredstein Quatrac Pro i fitted, So sure footed in the most torrential rain and flooding roads including the motorway and dual carriageways. Comfortable as well. I have the tyres up higher in pressure just to see if grip is ok, traction and braking and they are all good. The efficiency i am getting is better now the weather is warmer but on the same trips at the same temps as August, September, October i am getting 3.7 miles a KWh on the Motorway rather than as it was under 3.5 and usually 3.1. I am seeing over 4 miles a kWh and sometimes averaging 5 miles. Given that the Useable Battery is really as near as damn it 30 kWh that is OK for 110 miles and expect to need to get on a charger in 10-15 miles going City to City in Scotland, Or Park & Ride, Charging Hub to Charging Hub. Counting on single Rapid chargers is too dodgy. Edinburgh City Council Chargers are pretty hopeless, or just CPS and who is maintaining them can be a problem. Now when there i am splashing the cash, get charged on a Rapid and get moving or know i am fully charged to go where ever. I was surprised staying at a Premier Inn to see there was a Genie Point. The receptionist said they had 3 chargers. I never bothered explaining there was 1. It has a CCS, ChAdeMO and a AC but that might be good for charging 2 cars max. 75 pence a kWh. But right next there is a McD,s and a BP filling station with BP Pulse so i used that. (I have subscription & oddly sometimes my account seems to not be getting charged for charging, but then sometimes the BP Pulse chargers at various locations are just not starting. The amount of MFG chargers around is making getting on chargers around Edinburgh pretty easy but expensive, and then my default is get to a EvYve. Or now if near and need charged a Tesla Super Charger hub with Tesla non Tesla. So warmer weather and tyres and getting to know when just to go into Cruise Control and put the mode to Green or Green + is helping the range and i expect will more as the weather warms through the summer. I am interested where the sweet spot will be for efficiency, i expect it to be 16*oC to near 20*oC ambient. Sun roof open and AC off maybe 16-18 *oC setting on the heating. Driving on Mid mode in town for the lighter steering but i am often in sport to get a shift on at junctions, roundabouts, overtaking. Mid, Green & Green + has it feel like the brakes are on. High regen is just horrible IMO. ............. Downhill 1 mile to the park. 8*oC. Depending on temperature it can show up to 9 miles a kWh, then when back up to home still over 5 miles.

Well, I had a meeting cancelled yesterday so decided to take a road trip, as I'd figured out from the pics where the car was. I wanted to have a look without the vendor there, so that I could gut check it before calling him to dig a bit deeper, as there were a few amber flags. Suffice to say, the L&K interior looked very tidy but the outside of the car was quite tired. Top marks for the photography used in the advert but if a car has imperfections, I'd rather see those in the advert. So, I walked away from this one - I didn't even call. Having a look at something a bit different, hopefully today but if another L&K spec Skoda estate crops up whilst I'm still hunting, I'll definitely be checking it out. So much car for the money...

Yep he had that in the side pocket too very handy little bits to have, also got a net too

Diesels have a brake servo just the same as a petrol engine car. They both use vacuum ,Where they differ is a petrol engine produces a vacuum in the inlet manifold that is used to operate the servo , A diesel doesn't ,so to provide the vacuum needed for the servo a vacuum pump is fitted , usually on the end of the camshaft.

Too late. Perfectly usable blades available for pennies on FleaBay. Work a treat.

It seems my images have broken (again). Hopefully a new image host will work better this time. I have a confession to make: I was lying when I photographed the wheels I had, the centre caps were merely stick-ons that were there for the pics, when I drove I just use the tatty old caps that came with the wheels. Now I have made up for this deceit and created a more permanent solution, by stripping the worn old caps, and used an epoxy to give a strong bond to the stick on caps. I would of taken pictures of the process, but somehow the epoxy combined with the protective plastic managed to attract every cat and dog hair within the midlands region. I also got around to fitting some Wind Deflectors I’ll be honest, I am still on the fence whether I like them or not I’ll wait until summer and see if the car becomes a self-propelled greenhouse and cast judgement then. On the other hand, I believe I have now completed my list of things I wanted to get done to the car. ignore the tow bar and boot mat, don't need them as much now. Finally I’ve been facing DRL issues for a bit where one bulb randomly went out time to time. It turned out the bulb was held in loose and the potholes I’ve driven over managed to wriggle it off the contacts. Screwdriver to tension the contacts solved the issue. More importantly it meant I did not have to admit to a fault of my own wiring and my pride remains intact. Also the fog light cluster retention clip snapped somehow. So the cluster held in with zip ties for the time being.

@Natalie1982 As these guys say, you need a 7mm spanner for OEM bleed nipples. I would recommend trying to find a single hexagon (6 points only) ring spanner for this job because it's unlikely to slip and round off the head.

I've owned both a 2015 Octavia 3 Elegance and a 2016 Octavia 3 L&K and neither Elegance or L&K appeared on the V5. On the Octavia 3 it's easy to tell at a glance if it's an L&K from the Laurin & Klement badges on the front wings, not sure if that's also true on a Superb?

Agreed, it's a good move. On one of my previous Golfs, if the wipers were left set to intermittent and it was frosty or snowy overnight the motor would strain to move the stuck wiper blades. Chris

So this week involved the final push for all the wiring! Bringing (almost) everything together and even getting some bits finally working. So to get started the entire dashboard had to come out - Ive done this too many times now that i can whip it out in under 2 hours The photos also show the sheer amount of wiring that was tucked behind the drivers footwell Once the dash was out it was a job of locating where all the wiring was going as well as adding the extra wires for things behind the dash So basically everything on the right side of the dash went to either left footwell to join the engine bay harness fuse box BCM everything in the right footwell went to either centre console fuse box BCM 5F radio Then the following was added behind the dash into the rat nest of wires power and ground for heated steering wheel USB hub HSD cables, power and ground Wireless charger harness which split to 5F, fusebox and to left footwell MOST cables from TV tuner to instrument cluster There was also a few wires to neaten up on my travels. So once all the wires were roughly draped in their needed final locations it was then a job of wrapping harnesses to secure all the wires and give it that OE look. Sadly didnt get any photos after this was all wrapped and secured but basically, it looked like no one was ever there. To show the extend of the modifications, the fuse box now gained an additional 9 fuses! A small side note but something that was on my list - everytime the car was started I was greeted by what can only be described as the car yawning at me - the grease on the heater direction flaps had dried out and caused as a squeaking sound almost. So the motors and gears came out, all grease was removed and relubricated with lithium grease. (Even with the entire dashboard out, some of these motors were near impossible to remove!) Back on track.... so all powers and grounds ran, all wires in their final locations, now time to terminate! A custom fakra to quadlock micro pin was created at the 5F unit which is a fancy way of saying, the outer braid had its own terminal and the inner core did too. This was for the 360 camera video feed to the 5F. A few wires were added to the gateway canbus wires as it was the easiest location to access them. A fakra connection in the centre console was added for the signal booster from the wireless charger HSD cables were ran to the rear of the centre console for the usb hub and the usb hub tucked under the centre console area 4 wires were added to the BCM - ventilated seat LINbus, wake up signal from charger, wake up signal from DCC module, heated washer jet power One of the hardest parts came next, 16 loose wires in the left footwell with nothing to connect to! The wires from the engine bay now needed to get to the left footwell and the access point is buried behind the complete heater assembly and behind the ABS module. Neither of these were coming out so i struggled for hours to run the wires and securely waterproof the OE gasket with my new wire feed. First picture shows where it was buried, second shows the wires now emerging. 16 wires, and a HSD cable. All 16 wires were then terminated male and female and the new red plug was added and connected (look factory enough for you?) the blue HSD connector was then terminated male and female and connected up. And this basically summed up the wiring! 4 days work 150 meters of loom tape roughly 530 meters of new wiring a lot of blood and sweat and what do we have to show for it.... well youll have to wait for the next post!

There's a little tab on the left (or right, can't remember exactly which) of the video file name that you have to swipe once it's playing. This displays the video. I had the same question. Only problem is that it's not full screen (at least on the software version I'm on).

AS? You have balls bigger a superyachts fenders…

In the end I had the other dust guard removed as well as replace the rear discs and pads with Brembo items. My trusted garage did the work whilst the car was in for a full service. I also had the rocker cover gasket replaced as it had always been a bit weepy since buying the car. When I get time I'll clean the engine bay up now that it isn't being misted in oil every journey.

Lot of progress done since: The axle has turned out very nice compared to what it was before, should keep looking fresh for a while yet. I managed to find a set of 256mm rear brakes, full set up including discs and pads. Had to ship them over from England, but I got them. Pads look to be the same as the new pads I bought for the 232mm setup, so I think I should get new discs and put all the new stuff on instead of using these discs and pads (even though they seem to have very little wear on them). Had new 232mm discs bought, but they won't be needed. Side by side of the 232mm standard rear discs vs the 256mm setup. And test fitted to the axle: Calipers are silver which I wouldn't mind, but the fronts are green so the rears need to be painted to match. So I scuffed all down and etch primed them. I had a can of the correct shade (Pantone 348) green mixed up, should match the fronts well. Noticed the calipers have helper springs already fitted, seems these help keep handbrakes from sticking on. Getting pretty good with a spray can. Also got the polybushes in, they went in with little fuss, got them started in with my hands and tapped them through with a rubber mallet. Aiming to have it in end of next week, should be doable.

Bushings out finally, and I was able to use the holes for the buhes to hang the rear beam up to make it easier to paint. Then got a coat of Primer on it. And a coat of Hammerite Hammered black this evening. Its come out pretty well, seems to match the wheels almost perfectly which is cool. Needs a second coat of hammerite, and the bushes pushed in and thats the beam pretty much done. After that I can focus on the brakes.

Note that there are two washer exit holes. Cleaned both with a needle and it works like new

Parts came in, so I now have new discs, pads and handbrake cables for the rear beam. Also got another N75: Bit of junk on the ports of the old one, so good thing I changed it. New Boot struts because why not: New Drop Links: And Changed the D bushes to PSB ones:

And all 4 are painted now.

Right, so another €42.50 spent on paint and supplies. Totals now €97.50. After an hour or two of sanding, this wheel was ready for primer. I sanded the filler down with 80 grit until it was almost even with the rest of the rim, then went with 240 grit, 320 grit, 500 grit and finished with 600 grit. Blew off the massive amounts of dust with an air compressor and then wiped them down. After 3 coats of Upol etch primer it came out like this. I bought filler primer just in case, looks like this wheel wont need it. These two however.... Well I have my work cut out if these are going to come out halfway decent. I used WAY too much filler but its nothing that a few sheets of 80 grit and a few hours won't sort.

Fronts are now on. Annoyingly I couldnt for the life of me find a 21mm spanner that would work to get the caps off. Meant that I had to go and take the wiper scuttle and all off the car to get access to put a spark plug socket on the top. Which meant I had to go out and get a wiper arm puller, as mine had seized on badly. All 4 wheels off the ground. Was going to replace the rear springs if I finished the fronts quick, that didnt happen. Struts were such a PITA to get out, drivers side was the worst overall by far. Got very thick and cut the spring to remove the shock assembly. Not very Happy I had to resort to that but at this point I was at the point of no return. Needless to say the old shocks were FAR past their prime. Both sides went on eventually. As ever the drivers was a massive pita to get back on. Strangely, the passengers came out smooth as butter, and went back in smoother still. Back on the ground now, all tightened up. Caps sitting flush with the turret now. Not a great picture, but it represents how the top mount was sitting before. Back on the ground and its sitting nearly the same as before, which I like! Passengers seems a bit higher than the drivers by a hair so I'll adjust that next day, no biggie. Driving it its a lot nicer. More comfortable AND more responsive. It even tracks dead straight! So far it seems well worth the hassle, but by god it was not an easy job. Heres hoping the front doesnt fall off.

Powerflex Dogbone bushing was delivered today, so I set about installing it. Removal of the old mount was stupid easy. Looked to have been replaced at some point not long before I got it. Looked fresh but still felt very soft and mushy. Cut out the old bush with a hacksaw, only difficulty was the hacksaw getting stuck in the rubber. Needed to sand off the white oxidised crap in the console. Got 90% of it off and the console felt smooth so I was happy to leave it there. Install of the bush itself was a bit fiddly, The photo on the listing I bought it from showed it as a 2 piece design. The bush I got was 1 piece. That said it was not hard to do with a vice, just took a little more planning. I didnt get any instructions with it and accidentally put the bush in wrong (I think). The relief in the bush looks to be for helping with installing it into the car. I had to take it out and install it 180°, relief facing the back of the car. I removed the black part of the mount when reinstalling to make it a little easier. Took a fair amount of effort to get it back in, seems that since the new bush is thicker it has a hard time going in. I did all this over the pit, didnt need to take the wheels off or even lift the car surprisingly. Actually made it easier as I could sit on the step and work away. It was a little sketchy at first as this pit is made for lorries and the like, not small hatchbacks. Had a half a tyre over the edge on either side . I decided to go for Powerflex's PFF85-620R, their softest dogbone bush. Its a 65 shore bush and felt surprisingly squidgy out of the box, I wonder if a stiffer bush would be harder to install as it wouldnt contort as easy to fit through the bush? Having done a bit of driving on it I can say that it has improved the car nicely. Its a lot easier to change gears, much more predictable. I have not noticed any increased vibration at all. The only time it is noticeable is on starting the car and turning it off. Turning it off feels similar to turning off my mk1, as I removed the ASV from it. Its a difference, but not a big one in that department. I suppose it will soften up in the next few days, hopefully not much. It feels good now, feels like what it should have come like from the factory. Feels much more consistent even under some hard gear changes. Definately worth while for the cost and time to do. The great thing about having 2 fabias is that if I want a stiffer bush in this I should be able to put a stiffer bush in the mk1s mount and swap them over, both look identical so I imagine they are the same part. Overall quite happy with this mod, I like the feedback when starting and turning off the engine and its not noticeable at all under normal driving. Its the sort of mod that I love to do, much like the RARB. Next thing up is a remap, all goes well It should be mapped by the end of the month. The place i'm going with claims 145 hp and 310 nm of torque. While I think thats a little optimistic it should make a big difference. I'll hold off on the intercooler for a short while, since the weather has cooled off again its not gotten very hot since. Looking at doing a wellycooler job to it. I have my eye on an alloy intercooler that should do the job.

All done and put back together this evening. I ended up painting the wishbones silver to try freshen them up and keep rust away. Bushings went in ok, I attached a pic of the "rig" for getting the front wishbone bush out, after drilling out most of the rubber the rest pushes out easy enough. I was wrong earlier about hopefully not needing an alignment. With the wheels straight theres a visible amount of toe out on each side, It pulls to the left a bit also, i'll get the alignment done early in the week. I was able to drive it a bit after getting it done and it definately felt tighter, no clunking and the steering feels a little heavier too, more responsive. I am a little annoyed at needing the alignment done again, but at least that means I can have some data to compare before and after. I can't think of anything else to include now, will post up the alignment sheet when its done. Fingers crossed I havent made a mess of it and need to do it all again...