Leaderboard

mint condition original superb parked next to me today

Rather than VAG giving a "Maximum" rating for the gearbox they give a suitability rating. DQ200 is suitable for engines upto 250NM. So suitable for 1.5TSI, 1.6TDi and some down rated 2.0 diesels which all have 250NM outputs. What the gearbox is actually tested to we don't know, VAG don't publish their safety margin data.

I guess it all comes down to where the charging losses occur. if it’s onboard the vehicle for any reason then that not really the charging points issue, they have provided what the vehicle has asked for.

Nope. TESLA it is always the same place but with other marques it can be on the nose ie LEAF and Zoe, ie original EVs, or front or rear quarters , port or starboard side. Not back centre on any as far as I have seen. Causing havoc now as TESLA V2 and V3 chargers many now open to non TESLA as non TESLA use the wrong bay to charge, fun and games.

G62 here, I think: Inadequate cranking speed can inhibit hot start on some diesels, not sure if BKC is one of them, nor the solution.

He can only have made the video using Data he has access to and use the same source both times. Also he has limited it to a specific age and mileage. No two used cars have the same value in real life every used car is unique. Maybe data from Buying sites like motorway or webuyanycar I agree with you on the worth, a car is worth what someone will pay for it. The business has always been like that. Some people are savvy and do research for prices for some sales though there will always the customer "there's one born every minute" I don't know how he could access reliable data for the difference between what they paid and what they sold for. My take on the video is " Buyer beware"

So silent in the Roomster projects that I decided to start a thread for my car. Bought the car about a month ago as the cheapest available with the optional equipment I was after. Few days I've been driving around and looking through what is neccessary to do. Interior is light beige and turned out to be in quite nice condition after a full wash with textile washing machine. Ac-maintenance was made in a shop and Climstronic seems to function fine. That's about everything easy. Steering bearing is absolutely wasted and front springs make awful snapping sounds while turning tighter and brakes in every corner are stuck some more wome less. Tried to fresh them up with some lubing and cleaning but yeasterday non driver sides front brake stuck again, so it's going to be the time for few new parts and a bit deeper overhaul. While waiting for the parts to arrive, I made a flexfuel conversion as I had a eFlexFuel control box as a leftover from a crashed Toyota. Needed to order a wire set and some assembly parts for 8mm fuel line from the factory, but those arrived in two days. Otherwise the work was straightforward, but finding a nice sturdy place for the ethanol sensor was a bit of a hussle, as original fuel line jums straight from the cavity in right fender to the fuel rail. Sensor is very light, but won't survive long by hanging jus on the line. After a while I mounting to the intake box. Two 6mm holes on the dirty air side should not make any differences as there is even more draining holes. Like that: Control box is mounted to the left fender next to ecu, don'have pics of that. I don't know if the bts-engine is ever made multifuel from factory, there is 1.6 multifuel Octavias I think, but someone can maybe tell if it's the sama engine. If it could be done via different ecu with ethanol sensor, it would be much more sophisticated, this aftermarket set is installed between the original injector connector and the injector itself, so the fuel consumption numbers from cars computer are not going to be right anymore. Next I'm going to work with the brakes, front shocks and some bushings. After that some outside make up work, little bit endless fight with corrosion, maybe headunit upgrade, micro camping equipment and so on. Bit by bit, let see how and when.

Until now, I had never really given any thought to the home charger other than understanding that to get the best out of an EV, you needed to be able to charge while at home for economic reasons. Then it hit me that electric cars actually have their own dedicated built in chargers, which just require a suitable connection to the house AC electric system. So yes, I do agree with you that they are very expensive for what they are, a glorified weatherproof interface between the car and the house wiring. On the other hand when plugging in a lawn mower, they are generally going to be double insulated and normally not left plugged in overnight. Whereas a car would be and they are generally metallic so I'm guessing that these charge pods etc not only have another 30ma RCD but also other detections and disconnections systems just to be ultra safe as other third parties could come into contact with the car while on your property and hence why they are demanding photos of the internal connections as part of the registration process??

I too don't see the need for Snow/winter tyres in Greater Manchester/Lancashire. I can probably count the number of times i have been stuck in Snow in over forty years on half of one Hand. But if i lived in Scotland or elsewhere in Europe i may see the need.

Until I joined this forum I never even gave thought to using summer and winter tyres in the UK and I’ve been driving since 82. in fact it’s never really come up with other car forums I’ve been on over the years. are Skoda drivers really that different or are the members here no representative of the wider population most of whom probably just use all season tyres in the UK

No I was referring to the cable to the car from the Charge Point that I have now learned thanks to @Ootohere is not a charger after all, my response which I now understand was 100% wrong was to whoever it was said that voltage drop would be negligible along the length of the charging lead. My new knowledge leads to more questions than answers. Why the hell are these switching units pretending to be chargers so expensive if they dont contain a transformer? I appreciate that they have RCD protection but the regs require a 30ma one upstream of that anyway, the same protection you would be required to have in case you cut through the mains lead with your (mains powered) lawnmower. Even the Chinese ones from Ali-Express etc are a fortune for what I now realise they contain. OTOH I better understand why the manufacturers want honky-tonk thousands of pounds to replace the charging units in the vehicle if the contact pins deform and overheat, still a complete rip off but in line with their usual stupid spares price mark ups.

Councils should not be providing "Free" charging to anyone except employees driving Council vehicles in the course of their work to reduce Council costs. The benefit should be for all Council tax payers, it's their money. They should set charges to cover the cost of supply and maintenance of the equipment. "Free" is a myth.

The 3.6, or 7 / 11 kW AC chargers are built into the vehicle. The Cable is taking the electricity to the vehicle. From the power source. That is not actually A CHARGER. The cable used for 11 kW AC charging is quite a bit heavier than for the 3.6 or 7 kW ac. As to details, spec etc, i know nowt about electricity. I do know that to charge 15 kWh into my 11 kWh ac Type 2 port on a 3 pin charge cable it uses 18 kWh from my houses electricity.

I think the volkswagen R is a DQ381 wet clutch, so the Clutch slipping action is not as grave as doing it with the dry clutch version. When coming to stop in my car if i am stopping for seconds i will just use the footbrake firmly applied. If i think it will be a minute or longer i go for handbrake and N In traffic Queuing i judge the whole queue movement not just the one in front. If they don't move at least car length at a time i will delay following until they do. Avoiding not fully engaging the clutch going forwards. The DSG and DCT semi autonomous gearboxes get most of their bad press from Americans. A country that has used automatics by default for a long time, using a stick shift is unusual. They are used to Torque converter automatics and expected to treat this modern tech the same way. For the most part you can but there are times when circumstance demands driver interaction.

It’s not even standardised whether it’s at the front or back lol and why would it be ? Fuel filler caps can be in any location even under the seat if you have an old landrover (also some vehicles have dual fillers)

This may interest those eligible for an ev on Motability. When we had a car they offered to sell it to us but apparantley they don't do that anymore................. But

You can top up but unless you have a leak likely the pads are quite worn and when they are replaced you will likely need to remove fluid from reservoir. I'd suggest checking brake pads as they may need attention.

meh! My Skoda cost £36K three years ago, similar cars selling now for £23k but with lower spec. I'm pretty sure that's roughly the same as I would have lost on a fossil skoda over three years. In the meantime a service is under £200 every 2 years and it cost me £319 to cover just over 13,000 miles last year. It's the best car I have ever owned (previously 11 Skodas, 1 Tesla, 1 Renault and a Nissan)

they were only looking at the worst deprecating in comparison to how much a 1 year old had depraced at this timelast year (and then comparing to their ICE equivalents) rather than all EVs

Charging to 100% and using the car below 20% isn't an issue, the issues come if you leave the car parked below 20% or above 80% for several hours. Range will vary dramatically depending on how you drive, drive 'normally' at the NSL (like an ICE) then 3 miles per kWh should be your bench mark to work out your figures especially when it's cold.

That is about the price for mobile charge connector. The Tesla OEM one is here: https://shop.tesla.com/en_gb/product/mobile-connector But Tesla one is more versatile, you can buy an adaptor for Commando socket. Single one works with everything with the right £40 adaptor. Remembering a regular Type 2 cable is £80-150 depend on length. £150 for a no brand portable EVSE is about right. It handles safety checks at the plug (not over heating) and the electrical signalling for the car. https://shop.tesla.com/en_gb/category/charging

Yup that’s what I have always thought of as “winter” tyres but it does seem many people here (even Brits) have summer/winter tyre/wheel combos. seems a waste of time to me.

Quite possibly

Yeah. Agreed. Max torque probably only occurs for a brief moment, at a certain point in the rev range.

Meanwhile elsewhere. intersting view

I think that is the way it might ultimately go in the future, I'm sure the technology already exists to do that. Does anybody know if this is currently possible? Thinking about it, it might to some extent remove some of the current objections from possible buyers who cite not be able to charge at home as a barrier to buying a BEV?

And that’s likely due to the growth of EVs being artificially stimulated

I'd hope that if you have had a look at one side with the drum of, then you will know where to expect to find the wedge on the other side - if the one you have already got the drum off is closer to the rear of the car, the one on the other side will once again be closer to the rear of the car - obviously if I'm wrong and the one that you got the drum off was nearer the front of the car, then so will the wedge on the other side. I'm guessing that you have got the drum free from being gripped by rust on the hub? If you fight this too much without backing off the adjustment via the wedge, then you might just be tilting over a shoe or shoes - and that will just make things trickier to get that drum off.

You have a DQ200 7 speed Twin Dry Clutch DSG and by 2022 Skoda should have them as good as they can be. It is Skoda that have been building them in Europe for the VW Group since 2015. (They were building some for some of the 48 applications before then.) No servicing of it required. Not at 4 years or 40,000 miles if someone at a dealership says they need that.

Be interesting to know an updated version of this leaderboard. The 1.4tsi has come a long way since the last post. Personally my fastest time is a 12.02, had some upgrades since that but not been on a strip since.

^^^ For all engines other than 1.2 44kW engines. They are checked cold. VW / Skoda in manuals say 'a few minutes' not 10, a few is a handful. They advice at fuel fill ups. Then Skoda said Warm when VW, SEAT, Audi said Hot or Operating Temperature or Normal Operating temperature. Once you do it correctly 'At operating temperature' which is the engine oil at about 92*oC indicated you can check where that is cold and then before starting an engine check the oil level is correct.

random musings When looking at BEVs which is (hypothetically) more desirable . a) Lower Mileage but older in years b) Higher Mileage but newer in years When it comes to ICE I would probably pick b

Apart from being 25mm lower and on Audi pepperpot alloys you wouldn't know.

All sorted, checked brakes and pads were fine. Topped up and all good. Thanks guys

Hello and welcome, Tony! 😊 I look forward to hearing more from you, particularly from the perspective of someone who spent time on the other side of the service counter.

Good job Trev. Are you marking every thing you tighten with some kind of marker/paint? If you reuse the sump plug does the washer have to be changed every time ?

Sorry no idea about the light with a Mk2 Fabia 1.6TDI CR

What a strange video on comparisons from CarWOW / Matt Wilson. Trading in. Not selling it and getting Cash Money. Trading in at the Same Brand Dealership?? Trading in and how the figures have been compiled must be interesting. There are people that will swap out of a new car after 10,000 miles, people that change cars each 2 years. How the RRP of the Vehicles were EV ot ICE the 48 months earlier or 12 months earlier is rather important. What would be interesting would be. How much more did a Dealer taking in the 12 month old 10,000 mile vehicle then take as the selling price for that 1 previous keeper car. Maybe not even serviced? *If dealers are giving crap trade in prices and you need to get shot of a 1 year old / 10,000 mile BEV then maybe best avoid Main Dealerships or not Main Dealerships, offer it as a private sale and ask a bit more than any Dealers trade in offers.* There might be Car Traders that do want to buy your car and make a smaller profit, or private buyers that do ot want to pay crazy dealers prices. After all the car has a long warranty and might not even be due a service... ............. The TERM 'Worth' is wrong. What you can get at Trade in is not what a car is WORTH. The DEALER is going to sell the car and say that is the price. What they say a Used car from a Dealer is WORTH. What cash money you CAN SELL a car for is what it is WORTH. Walk away money in hand. That is the real Depreciation. WHAT IT IS WORTH TO SOMEONE. It is a Buyers market for Used BEV,s, and should be celebrated. *If you can pick them up for what someone is offered as a trade in. Did anyone that traded in a 12 month old 10,000 mile BEV actually own it or was it financed and there was the lender to pay back? How much did the BEV cost them to run for the 10,000 miles compared to an ICE vehicle if a Business user?

I took that to suggest that some EVS have depreciated the same as last year but those in the video have depreciated by the percentages quoted more than last years

Strangely no Tesla?? No Polestar? There's Taycan, EV6, Born, Merc's, Ora Cat. a Volvo, eC4 and others. The lightly used Lexus Ux300e is seriously good value. I did consider it to replace Leaf because it had Chademo connector, probably one of reason for its huge discount at retail (carwow video was comparing against RRP). Unfortunately its Chademo functionality is less than the humble Leaf, doesn't support V2H.

Few years back i bought a new radiator fan, i learn by the hard way that the cables on the plug were posisioned wrong and the 2 scales of fan speed were in reverse. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485671-bosch-radiator-fan-for-felicia-help-wanted/?do=findComment&comment=5454358 No one made a test before they put it in a box for distribution to the parts shop (so also to customer).

Not in 10 months and 4900 miles on this planet. Ventilated discs are not two discs, they are cast as one single piece, the ribs would take decades to corrode through even if left on a beach and washed by the salt water tide twice a day.

You should never release the footbrake in D when the manual handbrake is on and engine is running.

Hello Tony, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your wife. Did you have to sign a non-disclosure agreement with The Company? 😇

I would take it to my local independent to get the brakes replaced it will be far cheaper. Dont forget that going the legal route you will be up against a major concern who will have unlimited legal resources and it will involve you in a lot of hassle with an uncertain outcome. Having been involved in a different legal dispute ( boundary issues) it involved a lot of work and heartache and at the end of the day the only real winners were the solicitors. As a local farmer once said to me " Solicitors benefit from other peoples misery!

I feel similarly about the 2.0 TSI 280 🙂 And considering you can (safely) crank it up to around 350 PS is pretty worrying 😂

1.4 TSI was pretty quick engine and absolutely more than enough in normal usage when traveling in 2 people, 2.0TSI 280 is a monster and iam kinda worried iam gonna lose driving license soon

My old bus remembers so not a problem I have. I use it all the time, great fun. I does help that I've got a couple of long downhills on the way home and often overtake when coasting.

Few photos i have on my phone, mostly of its old look. will upload more when i fix my laptop screen!