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2016 1.6tdi bought 2018 with around 45k on the clock. Currently on 105k Needed the cooling system flushing 2019 under warranty due to the silicas bag issue. No issues since although I did replace the new expansion tank with a non silica bag one myself at a cost of around £25. Other than brake pads and discs being replaced once and another set of front pads (did those myself for less than £20), tyres and servicing, the only other issue I have had is a leaking fuel hose which I replaced with a piece of hose I bought from Halfords for about £5. The official replacement hose was part of a kit which cost some stupid amount from Skoda so made do with the Halfords hose which isn't quite the same shape as the original but works perfectly

Yes I know it’s been a long time BUT, I used this “tutorial” today and had my mudflats fitted in 45 minutes without removing a wheel. Hugely useful. Thank you for posting. 👍🏼

That's just useless filter thatblooksnlike IR imaging. Phone camera isn't capable of detecting IR range that's needed for that. That requires specialised HW (which is available as smartphone addon at same price point as the phone itself)

I think it will last you for many years to come. Our 2014 2.0 has done 377.000klms with all major parts untouched. Just regular servicing, brakes and tyres. A lot of country driving on unsealed roads, highways and a bit of city work.

Tanya are very competitive for batteries and deliver next day. Their price for the Yuasa YBX5027 is £81.21. I recently changed my Yeti batttery and it is easy to DIY, with no coding required if you car doesn't have stop-start. PS I didn't need to cut the cloth insulation.

I agree that the Octavia is much more comfortable and refined, in 1.5 DSG eTec form. I've just swapped but wish I hadn't !! The Octavia was also incredibly economical. The Karoq will be going at the earliest opportunity.

as I said in other posts Fuchs makes OE dsg oil FL52529 for DQ381 and is half the price at least. I'm using it with great succes for 15months. This is no brainer

So I've ended up doing some of the things I listed in my first post - Fitted discs and pads all round Detailed (got the old dual action out) Painted the flakey rear calipers but left the fronts as they are still immaculate when cleaned New Goodyear Asymmetric 6 all round (one of the fronts was punctured and not repairable and can't leave an old one with a new one) Haven't had the wheels done because after all this, I do plan to replace it 😥 I'm clearly an idiot.

Well, road tested the car today. Have to say I was pleasantly surprised with the 1.0. Once moving it smoothed out nicely and was surprisingly nippy. A little bit of lag on roundabouts or exiting corners etc but I’m sure that’s something you would adjust your driving style too. Liked the car overall and sales manager couldn’t have been any more helpful, however, I’m not sure it’s the right car for us. I think I would miss my dsg too much and not sure we really need an estate tbh, I think we could do just as well with a hatch. Unfortunately, our dealer didn’t have an auto hatch on site, and our price range probably isn’t ideal at the min either, so the Yeti may stay a while longer while we search for either a 1.5 dsg or a diesel one. (Unless a nice used Passat comes along within budget lol). thanks all for the advice given, I think it was useful going in with a positive expectation rather than a inquisitive one. Is a really good engine for a manual box but I think (sure one of you also agreed) that the dsg mated to a 1.0 may be a bit too sluggish and cause it to labour the engine considering the dsg wants to be in 7th gear for every speed 😂

My 1968 1.6 diesel automatic Karoq has developed an overheating issue. THe temp range goes off the clock after warming up when go over 1500 rpm or encounter up hill stretches,. Red warning alarms come up telling me to pull off the rd. Howver if I ignore this and manage the engine at 1500 rpm it quickly (immediately) reverts to normal temp. I have ascertained that it is not an oil or a coolant issue. my local garage has run it through the computer and can find no reason. He is inclined to think it’s n issue with the electronic water pump that clicks in when the engine is up to operating temp. It is booked in for a potential new pump and timing belt next week. I am no so sure s the temp goes down far too quickly to indicate a pump problem! I am hopeful it just sensor problem , and it’s is accessible for replacement!!! Has anyone out there experienced similar issues and how were they overcome? I am not inclined to go to the expense of replacing the pump and associated work if it’s not necessary. Sound s though this could be expensive. thanks for your interest

Bought insurance for it. Wow. I read that OAPs were seeing a serious hike in premiums (I'm 77) but after several years of claim-free, penalty-free motoring, I was surprised to get dumped by my broker. I wrote to ask if it was my age. They said no. They said they couldn't find anyone to cover me for parking on the street in SE22. I got the bum's rush. Last year's premium was £404. I got Admiral to insure me (£600 excess, mind) for £738, paying monthly. We use the car so little, I seriously thought about giving it up. It's a luxury, but (as of now) I can afford it, so I bit the bullet.

I'm 100% sure that has changed. The screen now shows other rapid chargers with proven track record (historic successful charging from other cars in their fleet) and will route via those if no other option. I've seen it plan route this way whilst on Isle of Skye, which has no superchargers. This is the benefit with always updating infotainment system. Remember all the tariffs are invisible to the consumer behind manufacturer's recommended prices. I suspect to the consumer, M3 will always be positioned slightly cheaper than MY. My guess is that at most, we'll see a fire sale for MY (via interest rate and free charging) as it is near getting face lifted, then introduction of new MY at higher profit margin.

Suggest you go to somewhere with 4 wheel laser alignment equipment. I use my local Kwikfit. The equipment they use has a display screen in the waiting area, it quite clearly shows Toe in/out, Camber and Castor angles, not all are adjustable. At the end they provide a printed copy of the before and after position. Again they only charge if it needs adjustment.

It's a bit of a joke compared to other manufacturers. Most of them provide the service for at least a few years before you have to pay. Can't believe it costs close to £100 a year for connect and the navigation stuff. My experience over the last year is pretty poor. Just does not justify the cost when Laura is either not working or struggles to understand basic English. Hand nearly 3 months where Laura and other things wouldn't work. I would prefer to pay something like £20 a year just for the very infrequent times I would use it

My 2023 Fabia Mk 4 SE L has Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 195/55 R16 91V XL tyres (sample advert here) https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/goodyear/efficientgrip-performance/195-55-r16-91v-1123230 USA regulations demand that tyres marketed there carry maximum-load/maximum inflation-pressure information and, as a result, tyres available in other countries also display those data. The sidewall of my car's Goodyear tyres carries the data 'block' shown below The 615kg MAX. LOAD matches the tyre's 91 Load Index and the 340 kPa/50 psi MAX. PRESS equates to a 3.4 Bar maximum inflation-pressure. So Skoda's advice that an inflation-pressure of 3.4 Bar be used for a Fabia Mk 4's rear tyres when the car is has onboard 5 people (of an unknown weight) and 5 suitcases (of an unknown weight) represents a worst case scenario when each of the rear tyres will be carrying 615kg. That the car's rear axle's maximum permissible load of 800kg would now be exceeded by 430kg is quite another matter (!!) but at least, if the tyres were inflated to 3.4 Bar, they might survive that level of ill treatment. Tyres having the 195/55 R16 91V XL specification should have the same maximum load-carrying and inflation-pressure values, so Skoda can provide the same pressure guidance irrespective of whether the tyres are made by Goodyear, Continental, Bridgestone etc. It looks like the tyres fitted to 17" wheels also have a 91 Load Index, so I'd expect them to carry on their sidewall a 50 psi maximum-pressure value. I'm unsure about the tyres that are apparently fitted to a Fabia Mk 4's 15" or 18" wheels as the information on Skoda's website indicates that these have a lower Load index, which might, in turn, mean that they are not designed to be inflated as high as 3.4 Bar. Owners of Fabia Mk 4 cars with 15" or 18" wheels are invited to check what's on the tyres' sidewall. If the maximum-pressure datum proves to be below 340 kPa/50 psi (3.4 Bar) they may then wish to interrogate Skoda about whether there's a conflict with the 3.4 Bar recommendation on their car's 'sticker'.

I cheated kind of. Already had Matt black caliper paint to do them all but like I said, the fronts look almost as new when I cleaned them up. So I used the matt black on just the rear pistons, because again, the pad carriers were fine. Looks good I think and definitely better than before. See photo below, ignore the dirt, that was pre-detail! Agreed re. the Goodyears - amazing tyre and will be fitting them to the new car as and when.

On the Fabia MK3 the 14" tyre size is 175/70R14 fitted to a 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rim.

Which is the case without oil cooler as well... Idle, no load: (Isn't it funny that TC-6 can show more than 100C, so it can be used to monitor coolant/oil temp? 😁) So in this case, water/oil exchanger is better than no cooker at all, although arguably not as good as proper coolwr. On the other hand, it helps to warm up the oil as well and keeps stable temp without additional components and high pressure hoses.

OK then, i the future i will use the IR gun and the digital thermometer, i have them with me.

Went ahead and changed the pump, filter and oil. Small amount of build up around the mesh at the bottom. Filter was dirty but didn’t appear completely clogged. Seems to be working normally now anyway and error codes no longer showing. Got the pump off haldexparts.com. I’d advise anyone doing it to get a kit for refilling as it’s a messy job the oil tends to drip out as you’re filling unless your filling pipe is tight to the reservoir.

Docc For a Yeti 1.2 tsi Petrol-Non stop start. ABS HEAVY DUTY 012 CAR BATTERY £57 includes vat & delivery. (Always double check with your reg number) 4 year warranty. I have used ABS for many years now & never had a problem with them. Just two weeks ago I had a customer with a faulty batt, & they replaced foc next day.

Is this any use to you? https://manual-directory.com/cars/skoda/octavia/ There's a load there. I haven't checked all the links work, but this one seems to.

I replaced ours just before we got a 'new' Yeti in February. It's very easy. My only two learnings were:- 1) I cut off the original cloth insulation blanket as it got in the way (and pointless in UK) 2) I had 3 warning lights once I'd connected the new one up. The steering wheel icon was cleared once I'd turned the wheel from full lock to lock and driven back and forward .The others cleared, and I didn't need to plug anything in etc to clear them

Superb estate. I’ve had 3 Octavia estates and a relative has a karoq. Karoq has the suv height advantage if you like that but superb has better boot than Octavia and the karoq, and more legroom especially the rear, still good economy (my 1.5 tsi estate is as good, actually slightly better, on petrol than my previous 1.4 tsi Octavia. I have a roof mounted bike carrier which is easier to load than it would be on an suv, but carrying a single bike I just put it in the boot and rarely use the roof carrier any more.

Hi If the fault occurred when you were driving along, the battery would be under charge by the alternator and would be typically at 14.5 volts. So I'm more inclined to say a wheel sensor. Probably not a bad idea to replace your 10 year old battery before the winter anyway, but I don't think it will cure the reported problem. I have known car batteries to work well for as long as 17 years and as short as 3. Same car (not a Yeti), both reputable makes. There seems to be no way of telling.

My manual 1.5TSI is returning up to 63mpg on a long motorway run, with an overall average of ~56mpg since I bought it (43k miles). The 1.0 e-TEC (MHEV, DSG) I drove for about 8k miles with an average of around 53mpg. My 'gut feel' is that the 1.5 e-TEC DSG would be more economic on a long run than the 1.0 e-TEC especially with a heavy load.

It wins for me. Of course, linear dimensions are different to cubic capacity, but everything I've needed to carry has fitted: Various size boxes/containers, appliances, large suitcases/assorted luggage, camping gear etc. I haven't needed to cart wardrobes, large chairs or mountain bikes etc. My bike is a hybrid tourer and goes on the roof, in true Škoda tradition! For many of us the Mk4's load capability is more than adequate, others may find it not so. But what else in it's class is better for overall load space?

Right, so I collected the car 2 weeks ago today. The first drive was around 330 miles, 7hrs none stop (still have that iron bladder haha).. Not had time to do anything with the car yet. Maybe next month!

Update: Did make it without braking something. Actually it was an easy job. A pull from the side and a little wiggle side to side afterwards. Just to clarify i did not had any issues with my engine or its operation, this was just a preventive maintenance i decided to make. The video link of the replacement here.

Thanks all. This is really helpful. We do a lot of around town driving but also a high number of motorway journeys to sporting commitments each week inc. 50 mile round trip 4 times a week for training and then regional and national races which are further afield. With all the longer journeys and higher petrol prices, I thought the Octavia might be more economical. The Yeti is such an easy drive but not very aerodynamic. I’ve only ever driven a manual but the test drives were in automatics and were very smooth and relaxing. Are the MHEVs meant to be more economical? I thought that I’d read mild hybrids (more generally rather than specific to Skoda) weren’t a great option.

Mines a 2018 vRs 245 I've had from new and done 63k miles. Total repair costs - £50 or so for a new door speaker. Only just changed all discs and pads at 62k miles! I plan to replace it soon, if I can get over my emotions 😥

Not tappets, pushrods. Injected 135/136 engines have aluminium pushrods for intake, steel for exhaust.

A lovely end to the day..............

Thankyou so much

I haven't heard of any factory cooler on front-engined Skodas, do you have some more info? A relatively common modification is oil/water heat exchanger from VWs - an aluminium cube that fits between the oil filter and the engine block. It only requires custom tube to fit the oil filter and some pipe work for coolant. This already solves the temperature regulation issue and it's good enough for more powerful engines, so it should work.

As with everyone else what oil you want to put in your engine and what oil believes you want to accept and reject is up to you but you have taken on the popular beliefs but that doesn't mean they are correct. Just to give you a bit of background the British engines in my British "classics" from the 1960s and 1970s were first built in the late 1940s and early 1950s (that one went on until the new century, year 2000, with some minor updating at the start of the 1980s). These engines were 8v, OHV. I have been driving cars with these engine since 1977, I wouldn't be able to guess how many miles but a lot and not usually slowly. The (proper) Mini that had the A-series engine and shared gearbox was what promoted the use of the early multigrade (20w50) engine oils in the UK at least. In the 1990s I used the contemporary Mobil 1 15W-50 in my cars with those engines and the common wisdom was that the oil would ruin the engines (rot my teeth and steal my looks) usually by old-farts with "classics" that they very rare drove and then like a maiden aunt going to Sunday afternoon tea as they thought the cars would fall apart if driven as they were designed to be. Those engines were fine and performed well and I put many tens of thousands of miles on them the few years I owned them (and I have kept all my teeth (including a baby tooth still in my jaw) and my looks). ZDDP is a useful marketing tool to sell special "classic" engine oils at higher prices for an older oil that should be less expensive, in the UK at least, if want ZDDPs it is the whole additive package that matter more than one ingredient - and then how many ZDDPs is required? Having researched this a bit I have never found a figure for ZDDPs (usually shown as ppm - part per million) for the multigrade 20w-50 popular engine oils in the UK in 1960s nearest I could find was perhaps 600 or 900 or in between yet when I last debated this the "specialist" "classic" car engine oil with ZDDP in bigger letters had IIRC something like 1300 ppm. Now apart from 900 being the highest figure I saw for 1960s as I put before wear protection is given by a range of additives in the additive package. Found this table for API grades of maximum zinc (I don't know if it's correct). SM 800 zinc SF-SL 1000 - 1400 zinc SC-SE 1000 - 1200 zinc SB 1000 zinc SA 0 zinc I have no idea what caused your wear, perhaps too little zinc in an unsuitable additive packages to the engine oils used might have contributed, perhaps not, depends on the particular oils used in your engine in your driving conditions from when the engine was first built (or rebuilt). I am a bit confused why you have chosen a diesel oil and then used API for petrol engine, plus what makes SJ suitable for OHV and not later specs, the link you put up goes to at least SM for backwards compatibility. ETA: just thought diesel may have higher zinc levels(?), I have never looked at diesel engine oils specifically. For your Mobil diesel oil heavy duty means in chisel trucks, mining, quarrying and agricultural industries which I suggest would involve far more heavy-duty loads than your car could ever take - "Mobil Delvac Legend 15W-40 Heavy Duty is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in a wide range of heavy-duty applications and operating environments found in the trucking, mining, construction, quarrying and agricultural industries." No specific to your car but when you have time have a look at these videos for general information regarding ZDDP and wear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kg7edyYgD8E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AJ_DO5zfVE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erxjPicpYyw HTH.

OK, I own a Mk4 Octavia estate but have driven a Karoq on several occasions, and both vehicles with both the 1.5TSI (manual) and the 1.0TSI (Karoq was manual, Octavia was the e-TEC DSG). Also, it's worth me mentioning that I am over 6' 4" (1.95m) tall so seating position, headroom, and the relative positions of the pedals and steering wheel are majorly significant for me. My thoughts are that the Octavia is notably quieter and significantly more comfortable than the Karoq; whilst I have not driven huge distances in the Karoq, I regularly cover 300+ miles a day in the Octavia with one monster trip of 580 miles over about 15 hours with no ill effects (appropriate rest breaks were taken!). The Octavia is a motorway mile muncher... The boot is bigger in the Octavia and for bikes I'd say the extra length is beneficial. @Novascape has a point about the shape of the boot in the Karoq - it is more square, and in the SEL the rear seats have greater adjustment. The other aspect is fuel economy. With both the 1.0 and 1.5 engines the Octavia has returned at least 15% more miles per gallon than the Karoq over similar journeys.

Very different propositions. We've had several Octavia's and still have a hatchback, we've had four Yeti's that your coming from and we have a Karoq. We also have the 1.0TSi but in a Fabia. The Octavia has far more boot space, the seating position is lower which you know and the Octavia feels quite a bit longer when parking. The Karoq has a lower roof line than the Yeti and it's easier to stand on the door sills to load the roof. The Karoq has lighter steering and more supple suspension over poor roads than the Octavia. It depends which age of Octavia you are going for but I find the Karoq interior and infotainment superior to the current Octavia. For both Karoq and Octavia estate I'd recommend the 1.5 though. Economy is virtually the same and it's a lot smoother unit especially when combined with DSG. You also have a lot more power in reserve which can be really felt when loaded.

The car had always had a wierd dead spot when initially turning the wheel, that didn’t inspire a lot of confidence. I had a good lever around the other week and found the rear wishbone bush on the drivers side was knackered and could be moved up and down and it’ll stay there, so ordered a pair of wishbones and changed them both. safe to say the drivers one was knackered as it nearly fell out when removed 😲. Hopefully all good for the foreseeable now except maybe a wheel alignment as I had to drop subframe to do them. I shall see how it drives . some pics

Hi, everyone. Back in 2015, I purchased a new Fabia 1.2 SE L in Quartz Grey (Black Concept) and proceeded to turn it into a semi-wild Monte Carlo replica - body kit, rear spoiler, coilovers, exhaust, induction kit, Ecotune re-map etc. Then I fell out of Skoda ownership for a few years. Now back but with a real Monte Carlo this time, a new 1.0 TSi 116 in Velvet Red. Libra 18" alloys were added from the options list and I got a detailer local to the dealer to wrap the lower tailgate in satin black. 30mm lowering springs and spacers on order but I'll stop there. What a stunningly competent little car! It has exceeded all our expectations, and then some! Photos taken at Glencoe Ski Resort.

If you go down to the woods today... Two crops of the same image. Must admit to being a bit pleased with this one.

changed the battery and all is well so far 😊

Likewise on unplanned costs. No faults, no problems, no issues at all. The closest I've got to extra-servicing repair is me removing the silica bag and getting G12evo put in. But I appreciate I'm still under 21k miles, so there's plenty of scope for things to go wrong. I plan to anticipate problems and implement planned maintenance. TBD what that actually is in effect, but the coolant change is an example.

I'd try heat and/or a nut splitter. Whizzers are useful tools but there would be a significant risk of damaging the thread.

I shall await for @ApertureS, comments then!

No they've just said only do complete turbo as they've had problems just replacing individual components in the past. Sounds to me like they don't have confidence in their own abilities. I'm looking at getting refurb turbo fitted by a place I've seen mentioned on here. Parts and labour guaranteed for 2 years seems worth a shout

An annoying colleague at my wife's work claims her physically larger Mondeo wagon (Australianese for estate) is super huge and can carry everything, always volunteers to move equipment to events so that lots of people can help load and admire the vehicles internal capacity and her selfless 'volunteering' (in paid work hours of course). Funnily enough she is never able (family commitments?) to bring the stuff back, when there is no one there to impress, so that duty often falls to my wife and our Octavia estate. Not only does my wife fit in equipment complete that had to be disassembled for the Mondeo but on more than one occasion managed a two-trip Mondeo load in one Octavia trip. Wisely, my wife keeps quiet about the Octavia's Tardis interior because you can't argue with an idiot. It really is a 'Swiss army knife' of a car, can deliver near hybrid consumption, more than enough performance (for us) when needed, roomy and a joy to drive interstate. Seriously nothing presently on the (Aus) market worth the expense to change imo and I dislike all the now obligatory safe driving aids in new cars.

They are good engines. My other half owned a 1.0tsi Octavia and it went very well. We even have the same engine in our Golf Match 1.0TSI Estate manual. They are really good engines. Long runs will return you 70mpg; Short runs about 50-60mpg. Don't expect anything in terms of performance, but it will get up to speed reasonably quickly and sit on the fast roads all day if you want it to. Bumbling around town is also easy. Expect to use the gearbox and drop it down a cog when it gets hilly. Avoid the 1.0tsi engine with a DQ200 box; engine is fine, but the gearbox will make the car labour and makes it an unpleasant experience. Fuel economy will also be poorer on a DSG gearbox.

From the rear. You can get a used one for much less, will work just fine