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Eyes down, look in.... Preparation: No belt here: Something not quite right: Belt remnants around shaft: And on screws: Hooray and out it comes: Found the rest of the belts!: Came out easier than I expected. Suppose I might as well buy a replacement belt kit now 😁 Gaz

Regulations only require one fog light so only one is enabled by default at a guess....? Some folk claim it's one fog to avoid it being confused with brake lights, I've no idea of the real reason. However, it's cheaper from a manufacturing stand point to only have one set of rear lights to cover both LHD and RHD. Therefore you end up with a unused bulb

I'm picking up this beauty on Saturday morning.

Well after not having a scooter for about 7 years I treated myself last week to a 2020 Suzuki Burgman 400. Needed to upgrade all my riding kit as it shrank hanging in the wardrobe and new helmet. Found a scoot that I liked 100 miles away in Milton Keynes, deal done and I collected last Friday, so instead of a boring ride down the M1/M25 I plotted a lovely cross country route home and enjoyed the ride. Been out and about a few times over the last few days.

I am having to be particularly cautious at the moment as my recently excavated finger is still looking for any excuse to start bleeding again 🩸 And the inside of this unit has some particularly nasty edges that are just waiting to pounce. So my survival instincts were running high Dunno what the belts are made of, but it's really gloopy and tar like. Looks like it'd go well under the felt on my garage roof. New belts ordered and due in two to three days. Gaz

I’ve sent them a message because I really refuse to lose all that data about supplies recorded in the app over the years. I need it!

Not a direct comparison, but I have an Octavia 3 hatch, my B-I-L has a Kia Sportage. Getting in and out of mine, front seats or rear, I have no problem, but getting into the front of his Kia I always catch my head, and the rears, well the doors are so short compared with mine (not to mention the legroom) that I find it very difficult to get in, and getting out I always seem to ‘slide’ down. I’m very much an OAP, a lot closer to 80 than 70, btw. And the boot space is significantly less than mine. So for me, it’s a no-brainer, the Estate every time.

I prefer a car over an SUV, so I'm gonna say Superb. Having had a Mk1 when my parents were getting on, they loved the comfort, access, and class-leading rear legroom. Agree with Skomaz about room and access for dogs. I'd imagine the Superb is a better mile muncher than a Kodiaq. My Superb was a 2.5V6 TDI, which I think was a lowly 163bhp, or thereabouts - never felt lacking in grunt, and wafted along effortlessly. Gaz

Take it back to the dealer you bought it from is the sensible thing to do.

It's right on the central locking unit: DO means remote unlock (Dálkové Odemknutí), DZ means remote lock (Dálkové zamknutí). The functions are activated by connecting them to the ground. You need either two push switches or a 3 position switch, similar to window switches.

DSG6 service + Service Reminder Information reset done. BTW, I´ve feared for almost 2 hours I could not finish DSG service nor reset SRI. Indeed, when I was about to plug my VCDS to check DSG oil temperature I discovered I had forgotten my laptop battery charger at home (while on holiday by my parents 600km away from home). Went to 3 PC & Laptop stores. But no one had any compatible battery charger. Fortunaly a small PC maintenance & repair shop 800 from parents home had one he could lend me! 😮‍💨 Saved!…

The tyre info is a sticker on the fuel flap not part of the scraper. Just slide the scraper up from the flap and you'll see it's just behind. I would add that it's actually a very good scraper, it really cuts across the glass cleanly, unlike cheap horrible ones you buy for £1 with the spongy bit on the back. BR

I've been expecting to post this summary since early June, but parts on back order delayed fitting until today. Richter Automotive in Milton Keynes had fitted the towbar to my previous VW in 2014 and so I went to them again. I ordered from Richter Automotive, in May, the supply and fitting of a Skoda Electric Swiveling Towbar, identical to what would be included on a factory order. I have to compliment Richter Automotive on the customer service and workmanship. Due to some electrical parts being on back order with Skoda the fitting was delayed by 10 weeks, Richter's Maxine kept me updated regularly and when the parts finally arrived shuffled other jobs around to fit my Karoq in on the first date I could drop it off. Its a big job requiring rear seat removal, rear bumper, boot trim and many pieces of internal trim to route the wiring from front to back. My Karoq was completed by the end of the day, everything was neatly back in place no mess, no rattles, however due to circumstances beyond Richter's control the towbar would not deploy. The CANBUS coding supplied with the towbar to activate deployment when the switch in the boot is pressed was incorrect. They have contacted Skoda/VAG for the correct coding and will come to my home to update the CANBUS coding when they receive it. The exact same issue had occurred with an ID Buzz swiveling towbar the previous week, so I am confident of a successful resolution.

Hi there. Can anyone recommend a really good indie near Lancaster? I’m about to collect my car today after a replacement turbo charger (that’s another thread…) that I had done at a local garage which is a Ford dealership. I think I’ll need my cam belt doing soon and I’d like to go to a good indie if possible, that understand Skodas. Recommendations gratefully received 👍

Hello folks, Other than the intro section this is my first post in here. I’m returning to the ŠKODA fold, previous owner of an Octy mk2. I’m looking to get a large comfy car for long journeys and carrying dogs. Budget around the £25k-£30k area. Torn between a Superb estate and a Kodiaq. Mrs ForkHandles needs to drive it too and is nervous of big cars for parking and manoeuvres, so visibility and sightlines are important. Write ups look good for both. Has to be automatic. Any thoughts from the collective? Advice would be gratefully received as this will be a big purchase for me and hopefully a long term car. Thanks! 🍻

A better angle ...............

Common thing for Sony units of this age. My Sony TC-WR445 has belts on their way out, and the Sony MIDI system my Gran and Grampa has packed in sometime when I were a lad. Belts like goo.

Yes, there are 5 wires going to the door lock motor, 2 are to move the motor, 3 are for switch that provides lock/unlock signal for the locking unit. You need to somehow add another switch that won't interfere with the original switch. Full schematics would probably help, since the locking unit only show 2 wires for switches.

You should be able to fit seats from a Polo Mk4 9n or a Seat Ibiza Mk3 6L. I believe Audi A2 seats will fit too, but not 100% sure on that.

I hope you had a first aid kit close to hand and the local A&E department were forewarned. I'm not saying you're prone to the odd mishap, you understand.

Maybe they should put their mouths over the tail pipes of their own vehicles ;o)

I wouldn't mind betting that's the exact same unit as is in my 570 I'm gonna take the lid off and have a mosey 👍 Even if I kill it, at least I'll know! Gaz

Hmmm - so how did you know that the one I kept from the previous car is one of those cheap nasty ones with t strip of sponge on the back?! Though I'm sure mine must be a very superior model, as I think it cost at least £2....!

You were spot on. The fault was a dodgy ABS sensor on the front offside. All sorted now.

You won't until the parking module is happy...

Wash your mouth out, doesn't matter that they (along with REX etc) make more sense but they don't meet the Government mandate of Zero Emissions at the tailpipe ;o)

We've have a size smaller combo of Octavia and Karoq. We also have elderly parents to look after and for those duties we always use the Karoq as parents struggle with the low seating position of a saloon/hatch/estate and find the SUV much easier.

I've spent so much time over the past few years getting useful info from the forum, just wanted to put my own recent tuppenceworth down, on the Superb 280 v VRs discussion. I've had 3 VRSs . All estates, DSG and petrol . mk 2,3, and 4 . Between the 3 and 4 we had a Kodiaq 1.5 petrol...for about a month! that tiny engine should never be in that car. one up its passable, but with a full family on holiday, trying to go up hills was hard work!! We went for the Kodiaq as a fancied a change after 6 yrs or so of VRS . Looking back both 2 and 3 were great cars. 3 was definitely a big step up ( if you ignore the horrible headlights !) With 2 yrs to go on the PCP detail on the Mk3 VRS, I just fancied a change and had been looking at 280s for years. I managed to get a deal where it was a straight swap for a Superb 280 hatch in race blue. Only had it for 2 weeks but comparisons/thoughts so far : Mk 4 VRS Good : looks great - I had metallic grey tons of room inside - no real need to anything bigger great engine- Sports mode pointless as just revs too much, but kickdown if required in Normal is instant and very responsive. Effortless/safe overtaking It's not an Audi or a BMW! : ) LSD on the front wheels - definitely less wheel spin than on the mk 3 For what it is, really good on fuel. Mid 40s on a run easily Bad: Infotainment truly awful. regular crashes no proper twiddly knobs for air con. even on the aircon screen, the icon to turn it on and off is tiny Still not that refined. quite a bit of wind/road noise While better than before, still get front tyres scrabbling if trying to exit a junction quickly SUPERB 280 Good : 4wd!! so nice to have . will be even better once I get all weather tyres fitted to it Twiddly knobs! the engine - great once it gets above 3,000 or so rpm . Great fun when out driving on my own : ) comfy and quieter than VRS . Mine doesn't have DCC which I had in my head as a must have . yes, I'm sure it would make the car better, but goes round corners fine and a good mixture of handling and comfort the hatch boot is obviously massive . if I had the choice and the price worked in the future, then I'll go to an estate, just for that extra % of practicality. However family of 4- swallowed everything including kid's body boards with no issue Very comfy cruiser, but loads of power if required Seats are great Bad As someone else mentioned ( along with my wife ), Normal very laggy . Coming out of a roundabout and you'll be doing 30mph and its in 5th! My wife was driving and tried to nip past a cyclist and commented on how slow it was. It is obviously plenty fast but its not so obviously nippy as the VRS . Sports mode too full on for driving with the family onboard First long drive and the coolant ended up very low, to the point of the warning light coming and having to pull over and top up. Known issue? MPG - I knew what to expect and it's not that bad . Got 37 mpg on a long run fully loaded. I don't do much miles so its fine, but more is always better tyres - they are a funny size, not many options and pricey . I still think the Mk 3 VRS on 18 inchers was the best combo Big - noticeably bigger when parking Annoying that no roof rails - I know that I can get thule ones that will fit, but can't help thinking that more likely to damage the car We have it for 2 ys but will start looking around in 18 mths or so. From short experience so far ( given that I like my cars to have a decent main dealer warranty ) : Driving one up - great fun !! will I keep this exact car - probably not - if was sticking with the last of this Mk, then I'd hunt down an estate Will I go for a new model superb - unlikely - far too expensive and the new ones just looking like they've been drawn by a kid . I'm sure hugely competent but just look like a big lump of bland car . A 1 yr old new Superb VRS when it comes out might change my thinking ... : ) Go back to a VRS estate - possibly/maybe/probably - wife uses the car most of the time, and this experiment may get the 280 out of my system . After the comfort of the Superb though, I think DCC on the VRS would be a must Possible perfect compromise - the new Sportline Octavia with 200bhp petrol and 4x4. Same BHP as a VRS a few years ago . Also, with most of the extra BHP becoming evident way up the rev range ( hardly ever used ) , I reckon in real world driving this whole package could be hard to beat ( and even better if with DCC and in Royal Green metallic ) .....and I might get an older 280 as my "sleeper " runabout : )

I enjoyed a few hours in a New Mini Cooper S 2.0 Petrol Auto and thought it nicer than a New platform Mini Cooper SE (electric) and the center controls never bothered me as i never used them and had no need to switch off the stupid sounds there are with the Electric one. The ride in the petrol car was nicer and the auto with paddles. .......................... I am now pretty sure i should be driving a PHEV and not an EV even if i could get 200 miles or 200+ range from a home charge. Only the home charge makes for cheap driving. The public charging other Tesla non Tesla is just to hit or miss or expensive in Scotland. Home area running in the MINI is getting me 21 miles for 6.5 kWh. @ 22 pence a kWh 143 pence. (Normal daily home tariff, not EV / Offpeak.) That is a bit more than twice the miles that i would get from a liter of petrol at present prices. 143 pence. So if just public charging or once the home charged electricity is used the EV is equal to or more expensive to run. 2024 Cooper S. So Old Platform. Still wheel arches, sticky out handles but the new interior. Smother wings. No bonnet scoop. I like. Built in the UK. Accelerates and goes and without the wheelspin and torque steer that the New Electrics have on the totally inappropriate OME tyres.

@ForkHandles 4x4 / Haldex available with the right Superb / engine / DSG. Be sure the Easy in out with a Kodiaq actually is for your elderly,s It is dependent on that passengers ability to get in and out. I have 1 leg, bad back & am not small and have always had 4x4,s and easy in and easy out & also a small car for local / short runs. Now i am low in a Mini & a BMW Estate and do not miss the higher seating or the climbing in or out. (1 vizsla in the rear of the MINI or the 520 estate.)

It was Evolt apparently and the Payments, but i think that is a nonsense, people say they called CPS and the charger was started remotely. SWARCO own E-Volt. Charge Place Scotland had BP with the contract to run it and SWARCO did that for them. Charge your Car was hopeless in Scotland. I still have by CYC card from CPS. The Issue is Councils in Scotland and Maintenance and contracts with SWARCO, and SWARCO running CPS. Now the STRIPE payments. My account is now near £200 with CPS and i have no idea when they will want paid. & they have ignored my 3 requests to have 3 x £5 taken off my account. The comment section to the article covers things quite well. No idea really what the Taxi Driver or Association are om at.

Welcome. What engine are you thinking. Petrol or diesel to go with the DSG? Does it have to be a bigger engine or could a 1.5tsi act petrol do? Do you need to have the 4x4 or might it be better keeping it simple and possibly less cost in servicing? Best go drive the different models. PS maybe the Superb Estate for the Dogs. Is an Octavia too small?

Could well be coded out. I have a 2015 Elegance spec and when I go into "Parking and Manoeuvring" I get the below screen. Apologies for the brightness, an unusually sunny morning here I have rear sensors only and no button by the gear stick.

@nta16 here is a today's (mine) sample for the extra charges from UK to GR. Buying from ebay.co.uk that latest years it's a economic disaster.

The reversing sensors do not require a separate switch - they operate when reverse gear is selected (and the display shows on the centre screen)

Yeah, I bought new ones and changed them in 30min, pry with a plastic butter knife or something, or buy specialized tool but for one change it seemed unnecessary in my case. Found them on http://skoda-parts.com/ 3T0 837 475 A 3T9 839 475 3T9 839 476 3T0 837 476 A But make sure they fit your model of course

We have , 1.5TSi DSG Karoq 1.2TSi Octavia 1.0TSi DSG Fabia On a run the Karoq is the most economical although the Fabia is slightly better around town due to the weight advantage.

finally got around to buying the Travall dog guard setup I've been meaning to get for months so we can split between luggage and room for the beagle in our life when we go away together (makes mental note the sand needs clearing out before anyone comments)

Thanks I will give them a look and see what I can find .

Update - received an email from the dealer confirming that they will reimburse me when I get the bonnet resprayed. Likely to be 8-10 weeks before they have availability but happy waiting.

Ignore any comments about the 272, I’ve owned one from new 2020, it’s amazing, loads of power and very linear, I work at Skoda and don’t see any faults apart from the thermistor housing leak, but this is on all 2.0tsi, the gpf/opf isn’t a issue and the new 280 has one, to put it in context the early 280 was good the 272 is in my opinion fantastic and the new 280 is also very good, just depends on your finances at what you want to pay,

So little bit of a side line now... and something I am 99.9% hasnt been done before... Ventilated Sportline Seats So this was an all new project and going in blind! So a bit of theory behind it first: On the superb, all seat frames are near enough the same, then the difference between the leather and sportline seats is the foam insides and the headrest. There are no ventilated parts for the sportline and the ones built into the leather seat foam are far from the right shape, so it meant starting from scratch. Also something to note - the fans suck air through the seat, not blow air onto you. The parts that were needed for this: 4x Fans Wiring Plugs Terminals Diffuser sheet Isolator sheet Fan mounting Now the fans, wiring and terminals are easy to source but the sheets and mountings are actually built into the seat foam and cant be purchased separately. I then found a company that sold me all 4 diffuser and isolator sheets and some mountings that would work. Now we are in business! There are 2 fans per seat, and they are wired exactly the same (almost) and controlled by LIN. Each seat gets a power on pin 1, a LIN on pin 3 and a ground on pin 2. Pins 4-6 are then grounded differently depending on the fans position and this is how the LIN knows what each seat fan is doing and where it is. Thats the wiring out of the way, next the physical mounting of everything: So this is a cross section of how it currently looks: Yellow is the solid seat foam Red is the heated seat element Black is the seat fabric itself. And this is how it ended up looking: Yellow is the seat foam which now has holes going through it completely, indicated by the brown lines Red is the heated seat element which is porous so needed no modification Black is the seat fabric, again it was porous and luckily no modification needed. Blue is the diffuser sheet - which is a semi rigid sheet that is full of holes allowing the air to distribute fully across all the holes, even with a persons weight pushing on them. Green is the isolator sheet - this is what seals the area to allow the only air being sucked it to be from the front of the seat, via the holes in the foam. Brown circle is the fan. And now some photos of it all - the parts and strip down first: A rough marking of the fan location and the foam being cut The seat base to show the 2 circle holes where the fan could possibly mount The fan, mounting, diffuser sheet and isolator sheet Decided on mounting the fan is the forward seat base hole A torch behind the fabric to show the holes are require permiable, so air wont have an issue. Next is the actual building of it all: Seat back wired up and fully ready to refit, fan installed Seat base foam cut, very roughly before sanding it flat to give a better finish Diffuser mat laid in the cut out All the holes, and the foam pieces ready to fit back on top at the end to maintain its shape Diffuser mat glued in place and trimmed to fit perfectly. A sportline seat base - the head rest is what gives it its shape, very odd design Back of the sportline foam before i began cutting The cut out for the diffuser foam. The holes - drilling these is pointless - i heated up a piece of rebar and melted the holes through - a drill just pushes the foam out the way. Diffuser, isolator and fan mount fitted. And some photos of the controls now fully working! And all of that, took 2 whole days for a single seat! Next is the drivers seat! It did get me thinking though.... the 4B module often refered to as the headlight control module, is actually a multi function control module and it has a lot of other odd options too - almost like extra pins for the BCM. But anyway, it has functions on there for rear seat ventilation too... just a thought. But that would mean a completely custom rear temperature control panel, intercept and inject LIN and canbus signals through my own controller... but yeah, just a thought.

A little taster....

AS? You have balls bigger a superyachts fenders…

At this point probably, but I’m well underway now! the only thing I wish I started with was a sportline 280 estate with a sunroof - as retrofitting the pano roof and 4wd system is a pain in the ass (but not impossible)

This part of the thread is for whats up next, including photos, whats involved and a fair bit more We are now moving into the wider territory (with some of the below) of very broad 'factory' retrofits and some of these youll see arent even options for the superb either for that model or that age. Heated washer jets Not a big retrofit and will probably make next to no difference, but this retrofit is as simple as 2 washer jet nozzles, 2 plugs, 4 terminals, a ground and a power wire to the BCM and only 1 adaptation change. Heated steering wheel I managed to source a steering wheel from sweden at a bargain price that matched the spec I wanted, After importing that and changing the airbag and clockspring assembly out, we then had to rewire the plug that goes into the clockspring, all well documented on other forums so no need to go into it too much. Most of the photos are above already but when the wiring is done, ill post more photos. Ventilated front Sportline seats Now this is where things start to get interesting, Ventilated seats were an option, but never ventilated sportline seats, and with the perforated fabric it looks perfect for the job. First it was near impossible to actually find a set of any ventilated seats for sale, let alone a set of stripped seats to see the internal workings. This means im working completely blind so i began doing some research to find out exactly how these work and what would be required. So the first part is the fan itself, you'd think these blow into the seat, but they actually suck out of the seat. So the fabric itself is perforated, below this is the heating element with all excess fabric removed, then the sponge has a lot of holes through it, below this is the spacer mesh which looks like a rigid spiders web, the last part is a sealed layer, the fan then pulls a vacuum through the entire seat. This is controlled by a LIN channel to the BCM which is the easy part. The hard part will be modifying the seats. I now have all the required parts, now its just finding time to strip the seat down. Door pocket ambient lights Another fairly easy and straight forward retrofit, 4x lights 4K0919390A/B/E/F and 4x plugs 8K0973754, these simply link into the ambient door light strips and need a few adaptation changes to turn them on. Wireless phone charger/booster Most would call this a fairly pointless retrofit but my plan is to add the USB hub, fit wireless carplay to the centre console, then the front pocket will be free to charge my phone. Lots of people complain about overheating from inductive charging so a small idea I had was to T off the glovebox cold air feed, run a small 3mm silicone pipe to the back of the phonebox and connect it to a 180 degree irrigation nozzle to blow a very small amount of cold air into the cubby area. Now the actually charger and booster, although it looks fairly straightforward, the entire front cubby area gets changed, then a fakra cable is ran to the NSR corner of the car where the signal booster is, another fakra is then ran to the roof antenna which also needs changing. This all links into the infotainment system and the kessy system even. USB Hub The photos above and below show this quite well but this basically transforms your single front USB port into a USB port at the front, and in the centre glovebox - both Apple and android compatible too! All thats needed is the USB hub and 2 low level USB ports (DONT use high spec ports) A very good guide is located here TV Tuner Another fairly pointless retrofit, but having spent a lot of hours sitting in my car, the TV would be lovely! This is quite the retrofit and the process varies a fair bit between estate/hatchback. The parts required are the tv tuner, 3 new antenna boosters, the trim panels and then the fun part of the wiring. Fakra cables need to be ran to both rear quarters and into the tailgate for all the new antennas, the new antennas dont always have wires to connect to the glass so this often needs to be soldered to the glass carefully! You also need a MOST cable but luckily I have the virtual cockpit so I can loop off of that. Webasto Parking Heater I wish I had this one ready for winter already, but sadly not - this would serve 2 purposes - the cold winter mornings going to work, and also when we sleep in the car on long road trips to keep it warm without the engine running. The parts involved in this are: External fuel pump, Fuel lines to front of car, Webasto unit, A whole bunch of coolant pipes, Remote control module, Remote control and then a whole bunch of wiring and plugs running all across the car! This allows you to either set a timer or use the fob remote to turn on the heater from a fair distance away! It also allows the ability to ventilate the car on very hot days to drop the internal temperature. (I even went to the added detail of ordering the 2 stickers that the car would have left the factory with.) Dynamic Chassis Control (DCC) With two of my shock absorbers leaking - the smart thing to do would be to replace them at £100 each. But no, I decided to spend a huge sum of money on brand new genuine DCC shock absorbers. This isnt an easy task and the wiring required is absolutely massive! 4x new arch looms, 2x level sensors, 3x accelerometers, 1x control unit and all the wiring to go with it. Not to mention custom datasets for a few modules. Custom twisted pairs were required for this to match all the factory wiring perfectly. As you can see from the photos - A LOT OF WIRING Areaview/Panoramic View/360 This one I think will ***** a lot of peoples ears up - Areaview was never an option for the pre facelift superb so a lot of parts dont fit, this means a fair bit of creativity is required. 4 cameras are added to the car, the rear camera is for 2019 onwards tailgates but luckily as I fitted the FL trim, I can fit the rear camera with no issues. The front camera on the facelift is in the grill, this is a problem on the pre-FL as we have a large radar there and it would interfere. After looking at how a lot of other cars do this, It seems that the pre-FL passat had theirs in the lower front grill, So with a bit of 3D modeling I am creating a bracket to secure the camera in the same place as a passat. The next issue is the wing mirrors - a brand new mirror is £700 each side and there are no used parts available. So the next best thing, LHD versions. These are yet to turn up and i'm sure ill be bitten in the ass when the LHD cant be used in some way on RHD cars (I believe the unit sits at different angles) so may have to get creative. Next is getting the HSD wires through the door into the car, many people just turn them into pins and use spare pin holes, but this isnt OE enough for me. So I purchased the correct door connectors and wiring from the FL which have a cut out for the HSD connector - these connectors are not standard so sadly I had no choice but to buy from Skoda. After I've made all the custom HSD cables and ran them into the car, next is where to mount the control unit, on the factory cars it is under the drivers seat (where my TV tuner lives) and even if not, it is only held in with a ugly piece of polystyrene, I plan to mount it under the TV tuner in a cut out, directly against the car body and held down by the TV tuner bracket. As more parts turn up, ill update this further.