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Finally got the SL01's on.

Hello Abbey, welcome to the forum. Very strongly advise to fit only correct rated fuse to any circuit. Unless the actual capacity of the circuit wiring is known, there is a very real risk of overheating and fire if the current capacity of wiring is exceeded.

I've been there & done that! Although the boot did stop when it felt some resistance. I had the car for 2 years before I discovered it had a virtual pedal 🤣

If what has been written in a few VW Group forums is true, then it sounds a lot like it would be a good plan to suffer the inconvenience and time wasting, and get it booked into either a proper VW Group dealership, that can confirm that it has the correct kit to carry out this job on this engine, or find a proper VW Group Indie that can confirm that they have the kit that VW Group claims is needed or maybe even some aftermarket equivalent kit, I think that Laser Tools now supplies a kit for EA211 engine belt changing - this is certainly what I plan to do when the mileage of my wife's 2015 Polo gets "on a bit" currently only at 51,000miles. There is some chatter that it is only the 1.0TSI etc that has variable cam timing on both cams that can end up in a less than satisfactory state after the belt has been replaced - and I certainly do not want my wife's car to end up like that as it performs very well right now! Edit:- sorry, I've deleted that "Edit" as it was meant for another posting I was replying to when I got an alert to @classic's responds to this posting!

502 00 is the VW Group spec that is correct for your engine. If you buy something that meets that spec, no other details need to be considered.

Thank you all, that's really helpful stuff. I will put a 20 amp fuse back in there!

There's a previous discussion, where Pete confirmed it should be a 20A fuse: Gaz

I would say no, given it only makes a difference on longer journeys. The cabin heating circuit uses a PDC heater (basically an immersion heater) to get initial heat into the system and give instant heat just like the non-heat pump model. The magic happens when there is heat in the system to be 'pumped' after the PDC has done it's thing - so on a longer journey the benefits are felt. If you pre-heat the cabin before setting off, then your miles / kWh figures are definitely better than a non-heat pump model, but the initial heating still has to be powered either from the battery or mains, just those kWhs are not reflected in the miles / kWh figure.

Oil temperature is only worthy of interest in extremis conditions like some of my extreme towing journeys and even then its more to break the monotony, the only other occasion would be if there was a suspicion that the oil cooler was playing up. I am used to frequently scanning the dials concentrating on what is important. I also scroll through the maxidot several times paying attention to the oil temperature.

It prevents closure if key is too close and also puts car on guard. So you don't need close car from remote or touch kessy handle after lid closed. 5Q0959107M/Q/T rear lid module + button 3G0959832AWHS

I often look at Panamoz and their prices are tremendous R5i with adapter ring £2230 and R3 £3540 all new and 3 year warranty. Shame they don't do the lenses I like. But to be fair, I do like to support privately owned shops like Harrisons if I can., They offer a great service in these internet dominated times. There is something to taking your own camera and plugging on a potential lens purchase and running around the store like a loon, taking photos of people who really would prefer you left them alone.

The Navigation display has a configuration option to have the speed limit for the current position of the vehicle. This is from the mapping data, so is only as accurate to the time of the map updates. So it does nt pick up motor way variable speed signs or adhoc roadwork limits.

Nice feature to avoid the boot closing on you back when you inadvertently trigger the virtual pedal with your feet. 👍

Given the fault occurred without any software changes taking place, it's unlikely to be a software issue

If you use your aircon daily it'll probably be the condensing (water) dripping, if near the engine bay area, when you are parked, it's normal on most cars with a/c. Plain water, it's that if it's got coolant in it you have a leak on the system somewhere.

Just replace. Nothing to code.

+1 to what run4mo says above. If you’re going to get it done then take it somewhere that knows what they’re doing. Get the bus/train/lift home and leave it with them it’s not a quick job. If it was mine, I wouldn’t get it done yet but I understand reasons why for peace of mind you’re thinking of replacing it.

There is an indent on the inside of the valance that shows exactly where it needs to be cut.

I strongly suspect a failing coil pack if it's a BBZ engine.

Don't overthink this, just buy whatever you can get locally and cheaply, N/A petrol engines don't care about oil and filter brands, as long as it's semi-syn or better.

Epilogue 😐 An Accident Repair Centre came out today and replaced the fuel filler flap assembly in pre-painted flash red. It took him ten minutes. He allegedly tried to polish out the minor paint chips. And said if we're not satisfied to call the office and they'll arrange paintwork. As we all know, fresh flash red is never going to match nine year old flash red. I can see the disparity - it's not awful, but it's there. I've said that if Mrs Gaz is not happy, she should call the ARC and tell them so. I am now in the dog house for not telling Mrs Gaz to not make an insurance claim, even though I did not know she was making one until it was already happening, and my understanding was I'd be getting some 'All Plastics' adhesive to glue the old flap back on with as a first step. Doodle do be doo 🙄 Gaz

For Ref they are 8.0x19 ET34 with 235/40 tyres, pics below show where they sit in relation to the body a bit better. I de-badged the rear too, it maybe controversial but I prefer the clean look.

Larger wheels mean lower profile tyres which will give a harsher ride - so only do it if cosmetic appearances matter a lot to you.

A treat to myself after a wonderfully chilled out week on the Isle of Arran. Weather has been superb.

Kind thought Mike, but I think I can live without.

Here's list that I've followed using VCDS and got it working, only difference is that I've not done adaptation part on A5, only coding (initially had some issues but I'm guessing it was because I was trying to enable it using OBD11 few months ago and must have change something somewhere that was stopping me from enabling it now). Currently everything is working fine with lane assist, just having issue with blind spot (It works and I can enable/disable it on maxidot but I've lost option to enable/disable and adjust brightness on MMI).

You could be overloading the socket and it's fuse with too much going through it with all you have plugged into it, or one (or more) of the items could have a fault in it or its wiring, this could be in - 4-way 12v cigarette lighter splitter 10 inch CarPlay monitor 4K Dashcam USB adapter to MagSafe iPhone charger USB adapter for rear seats - or whatever is/are plugged into this.

Thank you for confirmation @Breezy_Pete

First check for broken wires in loom where it passes from door to A pillar, classic fail point but not hard to repair at zero cost.

The source you quote implies there is the weather patterns and they have gone for decades and will likely continue to do so. I think they divert attention from the manmade affect on climate and the changing environment all humans and other air, land and sea creatures are having to cope with.... https://climate.nasa.gov/vital-signs/carbon-dioxide/?intent=121#:~:text=Note the colors change as,to over 420 ppm currently. Virtual free from floating sea in both the Arctic and Antarctic oceans is looking like a possibility in our lifetimes ie the 2040 decade..... seaice_202408_fig5.pdfseaice_202408_fig5.pdfhttps://climate.copernicus.eu/sea-ice-cover-august-2024#:~:text=Arctic sea ice extent reached,in the satellite data record. seaice_202408_fig5.pdf

I meant to add this a few weeks ago, returning from the Vendée we popped £50 in after leaving Dover. My better half drove back to Staffordshire albeit a lot of 50mph involved but I never achieved close to that through France at higher speeds and not even close since.

As is every other VAG vehicle produced in the last 1/4 of a century, the temperature has to be well above or below for it to indicate anything other than a rock steady 90°c. I miss being able to see the micro fluctuations, since owning a Triumph Stag I have always driven with one eye on the temperature guage (not easy when you only have one working eye!) which has been pretty pointless for the last 25 years. But not in fact, when the waterpump leaked on the Stag I avoided warping the heads as I noticed a micro fluctuation overtemp where there should not have been one, I stopped immediately even though I was only a few hundred yards from home, checked everything, allowed it to cool, refilled and drove home. Given that I now wont see any indication of overtemp until it has reached at least 110°c its even more imperative to check the guage all the time and to stop immediately if it rises.

Thank you both for your replies. My dad hasn't received a response from Matthew Bowden's office but continues to push the dealership, who are doing a good job of digging themselves further into a hole.

Climate change as result of man made green house gas emissions is real. There is strong scientific consensus and any doubts are cast by individuals with ulterior motive. UN statement on climate change: https://www.un.org/en/climatechange/what-is-climate-change UK MET office observations: https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/climate-change/what-is-climate-change Well researched and referenced book on FUD: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merchants_of_Doubt Every year, we get more extreme weather events. Every year the poorest in society suffer. We on this car owners forum are already the privileged ones. On a personal level, I'm debating whether to spend the outlay and install air-to-air heat pump, also known as air conditioning units, namely multi-split across 3-4 rooms. It can both reduce gas usage in winter and make whole houses comfortable in the few days of extreme heat. All powered using rooftop solar or cheap off-peak electricity. As you keep saying, "I'm alright Jack". But many people do suffer from the heat, even in cold rainy UK. This is data from 2023: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/heat-mortality-monitoring-reports/heat-mortality-monitoring-report-2023

Even at £500, I would leave it in the shop these days, before I retired it might have been a different story.

I win, I win, Yaaayyyyy!!! 😁 My life is that exciting I'm gonna celebrate my contrariness with a well deserved cuppa tea Glad you got it sorted 👍 Gaz

I'm well into double figures now for DSG ownership. DQ250 is by far the best box from a driveability and reliability point of view but the draggy hydraulic system and only 6 ratios meant it's not the most efficient hence why it's been replaced. My old Passat 2.0TDi I gave my Father in Law when it was 4 years old. It's now 14 years old and done 160k miles and the gearbox still drives like new.

Been out on the car again today - rare that it's used three consecutive days - and it was absolutely fine. Heavy dew here this morning and we were out pretty early, so if it was due to condensation on the clutches etc then I'd have expected a problem this morning. I do think there's generally a bit of "edgy-ness" about the DQ200 that there wasn't in our 4Motion Tiguan, with it's DQ500. But then the Tiguan had what felt like significant backlash in the drive train and Karoq doesn't do that at all. I do think these SUVs would be all the better for torque converter autos - the fluid link would make them altogether smoother. Apparently VW was thinking of switching but the project got canned as the EV deadlines came along rendering long-term ICE related development work pointless.

Not used the Superb much over the last couple of weeks, so no update. However, I did a trip to Carlisle from St Andrews and back last Thursday, so about 360 miles all in. No indication of any problems, so it looks like the new battery has fixed it. Good to know, as I would never have thought of it, as the battery was starting the car with no bother at all, and nothing picked up on its annual service. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, and came up with the solution.

Yes, my Michelin Cross Climates made a massive difference compared to the previous Dunlop SportMaxxs. I'm always interested in 'simple' add-ons to reduce the cabin noise further.

I figured it out my self. set the settings want and press the butten REST. the control will remeber this setting in feutur.

This is something that kinda annoys me, they're made to defog the side windows and no air comes out of them regardless of setting and position