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So I decided to change the front grille light bar to a proper one, i.e. not a homemade version. This one is an aftermarket one, from AliExpress - link here. They make different versions - mk6, mk7/7.5 and mk8 Golfs. Comes with the light animation at the start. It's cool. I specifically got the mk6 version as it was the right length for the Superb grille. I simply removed the surrounding trim that came in. It comes with a wiring harness (14-pin) that u can connect to ur existing headlight plug. Its designed to turn on with the low beam. I however used my existing wiring that i did before to power it up, so it comes on with the DRLs. The kit.... The light bar for the mk6 Golf.... The light bar without the surround.... The light bar test fitted... Clearance around the ACC radar.... The finished result.....

https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/close-protection-skoda-develops-kodiaq-armoured-for-the-ultimate-in-occupant-security Perfect for driving through Moss Side in the 1980s/early 1990s… 😂 If they ever move on to a Kodiaq Armed with 007 style weaponry, I’ll be first in line!

Dabbled with some light painting.

Well after 13 years of Yeti ownership I am reluctantly moving on. I’ve had 2 Yeti’s, the first was an Elegance model 1.2 TSi DSG bought new in 2012 and the second bought new in 2017 when I learnt that Skoda were discontinuing the Yeti. Another 1.2 TSi DSG in SEL Drive trim with all the extras. That Yeti is coming up for 8 years old so reluctantly time for a change. Without a doubt in over 60 years of driving the Yeti was one of the best cars I have ever owned and both have been utterly reliable. So many months ago the search for a replacement started in earnest, my requirements (I thought) were fairly basic - could be a bit bigger but had to have a light bright interior with light leather seats, an automatic but not a pure EV and good to drive with a high seating position for my older bones! Simple I thought, how wrong I was, it seems almost all cars nowadays have funereal dark interiors with black headlining and black seating and dashboard. Volvo (XC40) used to make it with a beautiful pale interior, no longer, now it’s black unless you get the very expensive top of the range model. Same with Skoda, VW, Mazda and most other makes -WHY? The cars with light interiors were few and far between, tried and liked the Lexus LBX but my wife found the passenger seat uncomfortable after 20 minutes or so, looked at Honda’s and eventually visited a Mini showroom where they had one of the new Mini Countrymen, in one trim level it had a pale interior, pale headlining and could be spec’d with pale leather (imitation) leather. Test drive was illuminating, very comfortable ride and excellent performance and most of the niceties I wanted with a higher option level. So on Monday I am swapping my Yeti for a new Countryman. I will be sad to see the Yeti go but I have reconciled myself to the fact that there will never be a proper replacement for the Yeti, why Skoda lost their uniqueness and just cloned VW models I will never know. However, now looking forward to getting to know the Countryman and all its modern tech! So after 13 years it’s goodbye to everyone on this forum, it’s been a source f information and fun for the past 13 years -good luck for all you Yeti owners. You’ve got one of the best cars ever made - as a past Editor of AutoExpress told me.

Hi, folks. I don't have a Skoda yet, but am looking at buying a new one from the local dealer, so I'm looking for comments and reports.

I think I’ll wait to see what Škoda officially come out with in a few days, the information on Listers could definitely be incorrect in some areas, even the alloys on the base model are listed as Proteus and there’s no way they’d put 19” wheels on a base spec car the same size as the Karoq which comes with just 17” at the lowest spec.

I actually purchased a used amplifier off eBay from a scrapyard but haven't gotten round to fitting it.

£80,000 off https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202408172983070?sort=relevance&advertising-location=at_cars&fuel-type=Electric&make=Rolls-Royce&maximum-mileage=500&postcode=m45 6dj&fromsra No good for me because my Dog is too big for the back seat with the console in the middle

Thanks for your reply, unfortunately non of them work even with the AC off, not even a sound when I turn the dials.😔

So much for being an affordable, smaller alternative to the Enyaq, even with the extras removed that’s still around £40k… that’s pure insanity just for a Karoq with a big battery under the floor.

As to BUYing and owning a first edition of a new EV while the Manufacturers are still not getting fixed models that are now going to 2nd generations, that is a very brave, or stupid move surely.

I doubt that many contributors will have driven Yetis with all the engine options you list, perhaps it would be better to invite comments from people with experience of engines that they do not recommend? I can both recommend and not recommend the 2.0 TDi, in standard 108hp form its just about peppy enough with a 6 speed box if you use the gears but it can give a false sense of power, it is very lacking in mid speed range overtaking situations, however with a remap to a claimed 180hp which I believe is really the stock 170hp map it is superb, far more torque and also has a much larger usable rev range so the above limitation is no longer an issue even if you are not in the ideal gear. For towing it is unmatched, that is just as much about the vehicle as it is the power plant, they compliment each other.

Moved front tyres to back and back to front, been meaning to do this and much easier with my newish 3ton jack as it lifts the entire side up, unlike my old crappy one

Welcome to Briskoda. Navigate to the appropriate model and the latest version and you will find there will probably be many opinions, issues and reports already posted there by existing users. Just be aware to look at the date any issue was raised and see if there have been any updates by Skoda to rectify the reported problem. This forum is one of the better ones and there is usually someone ready to respond to any questions you may have or offer advice on what to look out for.

just read the thread - it contains all the information you need. If you aren’t confident doing the process then I wouldn’t proceed.

This one I posted is working, as is the link at the top of page 2 of this thread: https://e.pcloud.link/publink/show?code=XZVfN9Zh62r0cJ7y4YQMaldlQMJxbP78tTV

The front subframe should only affect the front wheel camber and castor angles. If they are correct the front subframe position should be correct.

Whilst driving? None of the rules you quote mention driving 😆

Please do. Have you added or changed anything electrical, dashcam, LED bulbs, radio unit etc?

I am certainly not advocating moving the steering wheel. It appears the correction to the tracking has all been carried out on one side and the other garages have just checked the alignment. The tracking adjustment has to be balanced on either side to correct the steering wheel issue.

Just for context it's not really a start stop error, it's the boost regulation cct, the effect is that start / stop is unavailable. Is yours the electronic waste gate actuator, servo style? If you've got a proper diagnostics reader, there are voltages that can be read to reset up the actuator . You'd want to record what they are before disassembly. Also find the correct spec, hopefully there will be a difference and that is your cause. Manually marking thread position not a bad idea either as a fall back.

forward collision system not on yet i think. Comes on as i start sometimes Not seen the second red one you mention maybe when you are moving it's a warning it's off or you're too close

Easy way to double check the steering wheel radial position: From the current central position turn it to full left and right hand lock and count the turns and partial turns for left and right, they should be the same. An easier visual confirmation is to look at where one of the spokes is pointing to at left and right hand lock, if you are really lucky it may be straight up or down or a few degrees away, it should be the same but symmetrically opposite on the other lock. I'm pretty sure you will find that your steering wheel is still correctly aligned with the column and steering rack and hence the steering position sensor is correct, if so do not move the wheel (which you have already asserted) the front wheels might be all over the place after the garages fiddling but dont try to correct that before repositioning the subframe correctly, at that stage everything should fall into place although you may have to undo the fiddling done by the garages.

First question I will leave to others to answer. Second question, many things can be 'coded' or altered with the correct level of appropriate scan tool but whether this can be and whether it would be a good idea to is a different matter I would guess it would be a change or update of software as the programs are so intertwined. Whether this type of thing is included in a tuning package I don't know. As suggested I would just experiment with my driving of the car and see what works for me and how much I get used to what the car wants to do, see how it reacts to right foot input (accelerator pedal position). You can also flick the gear lever as required. Keep it in the power band and you should be OK, push it too high and you will probably get fed up with the engine sound and want lower revs (subject to you and others not being deafen by the infotainment up loud so you don't hear the car). You have to live with a car for a while to find out what you really want and expect from it, what you initially want or expect may change when you get more used to the car, you get more used to accepting its to you good, no-so-good and bad elements and adjust to them. If you don't then seek to do something. Give it time, what seems undesirable now may later seem comfortable. If you had a 6-speed manual you might wish you had a 7 gear DSG on many or all occasions even I sometimes wish I was in an automatic.

I've seen a few with aftermarket alarms with those 'deterrent' LEDs fitted in one of the button blanks.

556 is RVC 546 is area view 5WD is Asia 5WA is RoW All 4 cameras need to be healthy to get a video output at first, on a new module. Even if 3 are happy, if 1 isn’t = no output and faults for all 4 cameras

I still don't take any chances.

VIN can be discovered by entering your reg number at chipex.co.uk and reading from the resulting URL at the top of the page (may need to scroll across the length of it). Also visible through windscreen from outside, just below passenger side wiper, generally.

Here is a link for the operation: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/DQ500_DSG_7-speed_transmission Dont mind the comment of DQ500, as this procedure applies also to other gearboxes, including DQ381.

No harm in doing early. When done correctly for a DQ381. The procedure followed and the oil to the correct temp and run through the gears etc. plenty videos on the correct procedure. Sadly too many do as with a DQ250. Totally different. PS. It is sad just how many are having issues with DQ381 and MCU failures. VW group as they did with DQ200,s are still head in the sand and costing many owners lots of hassle and money after the vehicles are out of the Manufacturers Warranty. And time without their car while in warranty.

bit of a sidebar . Are lighting up times still published in newspapers? Haven't bought a physical one of those (local or national) for years.

You are definitely correct about the stress. To ensure my family had the outing I had promised them for the wife's birthday I had to hire a car. A Merc CLA automatic. Not terribly comfortable for a car of that (supposed) quality. And bloody expensive to hire.

Thank you everyone. Special thanks to Ieolito for excellent explanation (in what probably isn’t his/her first language). My real issue with ACC is (for example): going uphill at 70 in the inside lane of a three lane motorway. A long way ahead is a lorry which I know is going slower than 70 but there’s a lot of traffic in the middle lane (especially the full-time middle lane users) going a little bit more than 70. I could just speed up but, hay, I’m on cruise. The trouble is: I’ve forgotten that ACC slows the car down imperceptibly and, before I know it, the car is doing 63 when I’m still miles away from the lorry. I just hadn’t noticed and it annoys me for being such a twit. I do my very best never to brake on the motorway because I believe it causes those back-ups that we all hate; you know - the ones where there isn’t any apparent reason why your queue of traffic has slowed appreciably. I’m also conscious that, although I’m aware that my car will travel 25-30 metres braking in the dry at 70, the vehicle in front is moving too. So, actually, I have a lot more leeway. After all, our notional lorry, even travelling at 50, will take longer than my car to stop at 70 all things being equal. Anyway, there we are; some love ACC, some don’t. I just wish I had conventional cruise without some algorithm deciding for me when it was going to slow the car. I’m just better at doing that. And, on that note, I expect we’ve all read and succumbed to the baleful effects of ADAS, notably “lane assist” (which I have on my Fiesta and which has been permanently switched off after it tried to steer for me on the car’s first day). If the car I wanted to buy did not have some way of switching off lane assist (and I mean a button not stabbing at some screen to try to get through sub-menus - probably on the move….), I wouldn’t buy it. I’ve learnt how to deal with front assist but it still catches me off guard, like a horse shying at a paper bag, and I find myself asking my car (yes, quite dotty) “what on earth is the matter? For goodness’ sake stop over-reacting”. By the way, this is my first Superb (after a sequence of 5 Octavias) and I like it very much (I don’t hold ACC against it!). I went back to diesel too this time. Goodness, I’m glad I did. I love the torque (so, I’d probably like an electric car; it just wouldn’t do 700 miles on a “tank” would it?!). best wishes m

Just heard from the dealer apparently it was a software update to the gearbox control unit.

Me too! Can’t stand it when someone takes a slip road off the motorway and it slams the brakes on even though the way in front is clear!

The shut off code tells you why the compressor has been disabled, assuming this is what happens after 30 minutes running. That information should be very helpful in fixing it. Codes are in that link to Ross-tech forums that I gave earlier. Measuring value group 2, field 1 is apparently where the shut off code is found.

No, you don't run scans, you just connect to module 08 (HVAC) and look at measuring block data, live. One channel of this will be "Comprossor shut off code" (With that spelling error in compressor, if I remember right).

I have**, and the first time it did this (well, the first time I noticed it) the sound was so bad that I thought I'd scratched my (3-month-old) car on the one parked next to it, as I was on my way out of my slot in a car park. At first glance, there seemed to be physical evidence of this -- it was hard to tell just by looking, as the car park was dark -- but it turned out that the marks on my car were simply streaks of sand (the car park was right next to a beach) that had been damp enough to "stick" to the paintwork. I left a note for the other driver, but when he phoned me, he could see nothing wrong with his (hire) car (and the hire car company never got back to me). I ended up assuming that a child's small plastic beachball might have got stuck under the car and been scraped on the road surface... but when, a couple of days later, I heard (much more muted) sounds at the same time as the car was feeling a bit hesitant, and this occurred more than once, I worked out that something must be wrong. I took the car to the local dealer (Hendy Skoda in Bournemouth) and they replaced the auto-hold unit in the centre console. I've not had a problem with it since (touch wood...). ** - My car is an iV, so the instrument panel wasn't telling me anything about the revs at the time.

It does on the our mid 24 model - in fact it grabs any number it can - speed alert going off regularly for random signage.

The Hardrace front swaybar (7758) is in. 28mm. Car feels a lot more tighter, making corners flat n easy 😁 Did a wheel alignment as well as they had dropped the sub-frame. All good. It nicely compliments the existing Hardrace rear swaybar (7759) and front strut tower brace (8949). The original factory one...

So what did I buy? As a list of priorities I considered: -Space, either a decent hatch or estate -Nice interior with Android Auto and other toys -Minimum 250bhp petrol -Handle reasonably well in stock form -Reasonable costs to run and service -Low mileage (40k max) -Budget around £20k I considered all sorts, on my list was: BMW 330i F series estates Audi A4 Avants Jaguar XE R-Sport P250 Mercedes C300 estate Mercedes C43 AMG estate The car had to be either a hatch or estate, so the Jaguar was out unfortunately. It had to be interesting and relatively rare (to me) so that was the Audi out. I wanted low mileage (under 40k is possible) so the BMW was out as I couldnt find anything near this and the G series was just too pricey. It had to handle well too, which removed the C300 from the equation. Every review said it goes well in a straight line but not around corners. The C43 was left, but finding a non modified, low mileage example in estate format for under £20k was impossible. Back to the drawing board. I was browsing Autotrader and saw it! After some maths and reading reviews, I knew I'd found my next car... Late 2018 Skoda Superb Sportline. Moon White metallic, 272bhp, AWD Haldex based system, heated front seats, sunroof and DCC suspension. It came from a Skoda dealer and was up for £22k. After some conversation they gave it a full service, Haldex service and some new centre caps.

Within erWin, when logged in:- Go to Individual vehicle info tab, select repair info, then model, then circuit diagrams. There may be more than one huge pdf of circuit diagrams depending on year. When you have paid your 'flat rate' they will have download buttons. Save somewhere safe, then, use ctrl-F within them to find specific functions. Or the index/menu drop down on the left.