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Yes. You drive according to the capabilities of your vehicle and the conditions. One factor is braking performance, but that is only one of many.

If he physically couldn’t stop, then he’s too close. Simples.

Nobody is saying that you said not to code a new battery - the point of difference is what happens if you don't code a new battery. Read your earlier post - you said that NOT coding will lead to the alternator not charging - this IS NOT TRUE. We are all saying that the coding needs to be done after changing the battery, but you are saying if you don't then the battery won't charge - but what actually happens is that the battery DOES still charge but it takes time for the BMS to realise a new battery has been fitted and to adjust its charging regime to take best advantage of the new battery.

Just stick to the correct size and it will work. TPMS on the Octavia is read by the ABS sensors, so when changing the wheel set, you need to set the correct tyre pressures and let the car know that you've set the pressures.

Us idiots took exception to your insults which continue despite the apathy we have developed towards you.

Bump.

The update process is cumbersome and there is no indication of installation progress . Last time I left a memory stick containing the unzipped data plugged in for a few days and only became aware it was done when the version information changed after a few days. Takes an eternity to download and subsequently unzip!

Thanks for that..you make some good points. I'll get it done with all the other stuff.

The Oil & Filter Service interval can be 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles for those doing the sort of miles usage to suit that.. It is not 'supposed to be that'. It can be Fixed Service Intervals for lower annual miles, sorter trips etc. 9,400 miles / 372 days. To me your cars engine really could do with an Oil & Filter change if your car is a keeper. Condensation causing corrosion in an engine. Then Servicing is more than Oil & Filter changes, if you are not doing inspections / maintenance etc. Haldex & Brake Fluid servicing as well. Hygroscopic . So low miles is as bad for stuff as high miles, worse really unless a vehicle is dry stored.

Can't recall I'm afraid as it was agt least 7 years ago now. My mate plugged it in and it was easy to navigatge to injector info. It shows variation on one of the blocks. Usual it will be +/- 1.0 or less. One of mine showed 3 which is maximum deviation so identified the injector for replacement. However I was getting quite a bit of smoke at start up in the mornings where the injector had leaked into the cylinder. Hope this helps?

Panana 100w portable solar panel setup I added to my arrays couple of weeks ago, all the connectors, folds in to a nice carry case one can take away. I got for £40 as was further reduced in Black Friday. May well go under £40 in January sales. Might get another two sets so they can go in series as some of my solar generators will take 60v open voltage. As for batteries just also bought a £119 half a kwh with 500W inverter, no longer available, fin for low to medium device ie 60 inch telly etc. It did not like power the fridge freezer at it is the startup spike that knocks it out. For the beastie application I have an Allpower S2000 Pro. Will run at 2400 W for a while, chargers at 1500 W and has a 1.5kwh battery. had mine a couple of years and is now being superseded by their R series solar generators. Also have a Bluetti EB180 ie 1.8 kwh battery, only can run at 1 Kw but good and silent ie no fan noise most the time. I believe the EB240 can be found at a silly price under £400 for a 2.4 kWh battery which is good if you are not powering stuff over 1 kW usually. I am looking at the next size of beast, maybe the R3500 All power but I keep an eye on Ecoflow, Amazon refurbs particularly and even Jackery. Best deal should emerge from Boxing day onwards I reckon.

Coding is recommended, so why didn't they code it?

Do you have any links to these cheap solar panels & batteries please? Especially interested in portable battery storage as I've been holding back on putting this in as I'm likely to move house within a normal payback period but if I could take it with me that could move the dial somewhat...

Sorry I missed off home battery which he does have. His major disappointment with his Volvo EV is that it doesn't support V2H - but he needed a suitable towcar for his large caravan.

Well said - with the vast increase in non fossil fuel based generation there really is no even half decent reason to link the UK price of electricity to world gas prices. Even a good friend of mine who has an EV, an all electric caravan, PV solar panels, house battery and a heat pump finds it difficult to financially justify his investment due to the high unit cost of electricity - but is emotionally happy that he's doing the right thing for the environment.

That is implausible, perhaps you drew the wrong conclusion. 12.2v is the voltage which a the battery (mis)management system of a stop start vehicle would maintain the state of charge to allow regenerative charging, it is also the voltage that someone would measure taking a multimeter reading across the battery terminals without realising that they need to force a shut down of the active canbus controllers by manually closing the bonnet catch, locking the car then waiting 20 minutes before taking a true reading without the volt drop of all the active controllers.

I have driven several historic cars without fuel gauges but that would not make me claim "The thing with buses and coaches is that they don't even have a fuel gauge"

I have bumped one of the many many many threads for you concerning the issue,

I'll ask if she can do that for you. I think she's replied to your query regarding the trim in the footwell on FB. 🙂

The correct size for a 2wd on 17's is 215/55x17

Surprising there has been no mention of a MHEV Fabia which really is a surprise it would have made sense.

Apologies, I should have known better than to challenge you... The article I flicked onto wrote the E-TEC as PHEV. If OP is looking at a Golf then it's likely either the A3, Leon or that. I would suggest the Octavia is almost an alternative to the Passat PHEV. I've never seen a manual PHEV (?) - I was meaning more as a comparison to how the car felt in general! my first reaction to it, if I'm honest, was "how can they ruin a Golf this much?".

Hi they are two blue LED clusters. Seen them on an unmarked S3 near me. Suspect they’ve used the holes from the sensors to retro fit these? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Now I update the firmware to the 0490 version and everything is working correctly

Hi Mikey, surely as the other poster intimates it could be downloaded from the ECU, event log. It is worrying.

My family reckon the seats are very comfortable, 6 year old car, used regularly on 5 to 6 hour trips.

Over the air it updates only part of the whole European map, which in your case would mean most or all of the UK. However, it is said that if you enter a far-off destination, such as Athens or Seville or Helsinki, and start route guidance, it will update all the mapping needed for the whole journey.

Thanks! Doesn't the MkII have a chain and the MkIII the belt?

That looks new new rather than just new to you. Dare I ask how much?

I recommend using bulbs from Kopacek, former super-skoda. Cheaper ebay etc. bulbs might cause random issues over time because they have less resistance than oem bulbs and can mix up the electric circuit they are part of. You probably want to do this only once.

Welcome - from the first page it looks like you can go 156-238-SKIP 278-306. Then you can go 306-308-SKIP 324-330. I have done this myself and it was fine. So the whole lot is: 156-238-306-308-330. Just to be sure I would download them all, then put one on a usb stick each time just to save confusion. Go to here https://mibsolution.one/#/1 If you need to login I think its GUEST for Username and Password. Click on the dropdown for the folder MQB_Solution on the left. Then scroll down to MOI3 and click on the dropdown then click on the folder called "Preh" and you'll see the zip files in there. The only thing is...I can't see 238 there. I couldn't see it on mibhelper either. So the question is whether you can go from 156 to 278 direct because it doesn't look like there's a 238 available...

Rough idle when cold could easily be due to worn out glow plugs, or glow plug circuit not functioning correctly. Compression issues, eg due to partly worn out rings or cracked pistons, also manifest themselves more often from cold. Could be also other reasons like faulty sensors. I'd replace injectors last, not first. What I would do is first a VCDS/OBD2 code check, often there is an error code pointing to why the engine is unhapy. If there are no error codes then glow plug test, or if glow plugs never replaced then glow plug replacement together with compression test, first on hot engine (glow plugs need to be taken out on hot engine anyway), then compression test again on cold engine. Compression test tool is cheap, screws in place of a glow plug.

Obvious really; JayOrr has never driven a vehicle without a fuel gauge, therefore all vehicles have fuel gauges. No pics, but Ford Turboflow (coach), Leyland Leopard (service bus or coach depending on bodywork), Dennis Dominator (double deck service bus), Scania "2 Series" (truck and coach) and MAN (coach) also don't have fuel gauges.

That makes perfect sense; the 12V battery is required for all the electronics, which I would assume include the circuits that tell the ISG and 48V battery what to do. What remains to be confirmed is whether the 12V battery is ever used to provide the actual power to the ISG. Incidentally, when your battery was drained, did KESSY stop working and if so how did you get around that?

Following the dialogue in the linked thread, I emailed Škoda UK in an attempt to clarify the apparent contradiction of the shop alert and published documentation about the Mk4. Škoda UK in turn referred me to the Connect Helpline with a .cz email address (so presumably at the factory). They have forwarded my enquiry to the “competent department” (which I assume to mean the ‘appropriate department’). I await a response. When I get it, I will update the forum.

The important thing to remember about payback calculations with solar panels is their half life i.e. the number of years when their output will be half what it was when new. Typically the half life of monocrystalline and polycrystalline PV panels is around 25-30 years, no data available yet for thin film panels. https://www.renewableenergyhub.co.uk/main/solar-panels/how-long-do-solar-panels-last

That happens whenever you disconnect a battery on one of our vehicles unless you use a plug in standby power source.

Really you need to get a VCDS scan and check injector quantities for variation. I bet one has a bad spray pattern or is leaking. Bad thing about PD injectors is that they are hellishly expensive to buy new. Good thing about them is you can buy them cheap 2nd hand. You'd need a diesel specialist to check spray pattern before fitting if this is required. I did this several years back and it was fine.

I don't know about the camera, as far as I can tell it has just 3 leads, judging by retrofit kits: https://www.carsystems.eu/skoda-citigo-rear-view-camera-kit-rvc-with-guidance-lines-retrofit,id3872.html for me, it's not about the music, but rather, having a nice, carplay integration with the car, I don't care about resale value, it's just about something that'll make my experience of the car better.

There is no SD card slot - the update takes place through one of the USB C ports 👍

I've had a look at the Kef and if I'm looking at the right model and getting my sums right, the SVS cone has roughly twice the surface area of the Kef and that's including the fact that the Kef has twin drivers. I think with the cabinet being sealed and the drivers acting in opposition to each other, it may well give great control but will limit the sheer amount of air that can be moved. You would probably want the twin drives of the Kef to work with opposite polarity if you wanted to shift the air more easily, ie like the Linn Isobarik, but this would almost certainly cause phase cancellation owing to the LF nature of a sub 😞 Please take the local dealer up on their offer to try the SVS. Especially if they are going to cart it round for you (it's pretty heavy and quite big) I'll be amazed if you are not impressed with it. It even looks like something Darth Vader might have in his HiFi set up

No I was talking about my 2015 1.6 TDI. I had that done at 133k. My 1.5 TSI was done at 116k. The Skoda dealer had never seen a 1.5 TSI with mileage as high as mine so booked it in.

Update on this clutch problem. Got the car back today, clutch and slave cylinder replaced. It was a solid flywheel. Total cost £550.

That's not what several other members who have fitted new batteries without coding have posted over the last few years? They claim everything works as normal and the new battery charges OK? You're the only person who has posted that not coding after fitting a new battery leads to the alternator not charging...

I do not see anyway that the Government in the UK, or Scotland, Wales or Northern Ireland are really encouraging anyone other than business's to go Electric. I can not see anyway that anything to do with the infrastructure for public charging will be helped by anything the governments do. They could set up Companies that give training and also do direct labour / ground works at charging hubs and installation of EV chargers. These 'Youth / Adult employment schemes could do Commercial Work for other businesses, for local authorities and do home installations. Basically privatisation of EV charging installers, but working with Commercial Concerns and not to undercut them. Help get out the trained people required how can maybe even become Contractors / Sole Traders / Business.s. Get the Planning in order and Local Authorities. Battery Storage is required, and solar canopies etc. And no Land Banking and no Permission given to those who do not own the land while those that do own it are blocked / refused planning.

Beware of using those, you don't know what changes they are making and because Skoda make many running changes you cannot be sure they will do what you want on your car - there have been many posts on here where owners have used one of those and it's caused unwanted side effects. IMHO always do it the manual way making the changes directly yourself, then if something does go wrong you know how to revert it.

Hello all, I would like to repost on this thread my findings on this horrible noise. I was almost subject to a large mechanics bill myself before trying this out. I've had MK3.5 Octavia VRS for around a month now and have had this noise for almost my whole time owning the car. What started with mine was brake squeal, which prompted me to have the calipers off and pads out. There was no copper grease around the edge of the pads, after fitting some grease and refitting the squeak was gone but I had this horrible clonk when going over rough road, pot holes but not over speed bumps. I had a mobile mechanics come out and take a look, all of the other suspension components, lower arms, anti roll bar bushes, drop links, struts and top mounts were fine. The mechanic told me my driveshafts were knackered and there was play up and down in them as well as an oil leak from the gearbox I had a look myself and found he was telling a lie. He took my money and ran because he didn't know what the issue was. Minea a 6 speed manual. It was that evening that I was speaking with a friend who said if it isn't the above it could well be brake pads. So I went outside with a screw driver and lightly pried the pad up in the carrier DONK, pried it down DONK. There's your issue. There was around 5-6mm movement of each pad in the carrier. Headed down to euro car parts the next day and bought a set of pagid pads. (175mm) Fitted them in myself and they are a snug fit. No movement up and down or back and forth. One happy man. The pads I removed were brembo. They didn't have any of the plates fitted to the rear of the pad, the pagid do and this stops the slack on the pad thus solving this issue. Very simple fix to a very annoying problem. I hope this helps you all. Don't buy brembo pads buy OEM (TRW) or Pagid. Have a good weekend 😁

Thought this screenshot might be helpful in explaining that it's not just the wheel rim size that needs to be taken into account when selecting the correct sized space saver spare wheel. Because the profile (height of the tyre if you will) is expressed as a percentage of the tyre width and the space saver is a LOT narrower than the normal road tyre, consequently the profile will need to be different to equate. Tyresize.com allows you to see this and compare how much of a difference there is to the road wheel circumference. The 2nd tyre size is that of the tyre/wheel combination which Skoda show on the inside of the fuel flap on my 2021 Octavia 1.0 TSI Technology with 16 inch road wheels. As you'll see it's 3.1% smaller in circumference than the normal 16 inch tyre/wheel but that's pretty close considering you're also limited to 50 mph. It's also important to ensure that the space saver is of sufficient size and offset to clear the brake calipers. Hope this helps, as I too found it all very confusing to begin with!

I have an mk4 diesel estate with an aftermarket removable Westfalia tow bar. The car has a towing capacity of 1600 kg which is ok for my caravan. With regards to towing, the car has no issues with towing re hills etc. I normally tow at 57 on a motorway. The only issues I have experienced is passing wagons on the motorway. You normally have do 60mph and it can become a bit unstable if your not careful. I try to give them a wide berth if possible. I normally get around 34 mpg on a motorway trip as apposed to the 65-68 mpg I get for a similar trip when not towing. on a positive note I have used travel assist in good weather on the motorway and it has done a good job keeping in lane though it doesn’t do so well around road works. Doesn’t like traffic cones at the road side.