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Data that is missing from autotrader would be the date the car was built too. Some cars are relatively old when registered. It is useful to check the vin and even model year against the registration plate. vehicle can only be considered new if it: has not been permanently registered in any other country has not been sold for retail (this is where a vehicle is sold between non motor traders) has reasonable delivery mileage is a current model or a model that has stopped being produced in the last 2 years

3 O Clock position. Look behind. Thanks. AG Falco

@scotthugh3s, May I jump in the discussion with the link to the thread: Bear in mind that is not my guide, I found it a while ago when I was looking for a solution to this problem because my car is also suffering sometimes in wet weather. Br, D.

@EnterNameI think those that can do a couple of weeks travel and 300 miles for under £7.00 might feel ok about using an EV. Not even a thought about saving the world as using a petrol or diesel when that suited rather than paying 10 times as much to run the EV and public charge.

You also lose a portion of the manufacturers warranty period too.

A point with buying one of those pre-registered cars is that although, you are essentially buying a brand-new car, you are also buying a car that is very likely to be out of date in respect of the latest model could well have extra features added in and maybe even had a face lift which will date your car quicker. Thats all fine if those things don't matter to you, and you are planning on keeping the car for a long period.

@EnterName Keep up at the back. Are you being daft on purpose hoping another thread is closed? There was a ZEV Mandate and cars pre reg and stored / bunkered. Discussed now for 2 years or more on here. With Jaguar in the UK and cars they could not shift because there were many with them having issues it is a bit off calling it a FIRE SALE.

Back on topic, for 2024: In the news, Norway is very close to 100% BEV sales: Norway on track to be first to go all-electric - BBC News Published sales stats says UK has had 21% YoY increase in BEV sales: UK new car registration data, UK car market - SMMT Charge point mapping website stats say over 100% increase in charging hubs: 2024 EV charging statistics reveal record rate of charge point installations - Zapmap That means in 2024 alone, number of charging hubs doubled!

Back on topic, I've been watching a few of the counter-EV channels on YouTube, and one recurring point they are driving home is the second-hand market. Barrie Crampton trawls through AutoTrader looking for examples of EVs that are little more than delivery mileage but are a couple of years old. It seems to me that this is only going to increase, as I assume there were a shedload of EVs registered at the end of 2024 to beat the deadline and duck the EU punishment for failing to sell enough EVs in 2024. Unless @wyx087 ups his game in 2025, I suspect there will be an increasingly large bow-wave of unused but second-hand EVs that will hit the market. 😋 (I'm joking!) That's great news for people who get a free car by one way or another, or for someone who wants to buy an EV. But for anyone looking to lease an EV in the future, the cost of leasing an EV is likely to rocket as lease companies pre-load EVs with depreciation. Not to mention early-adopters who bought an EV. 😬

The real problem here is of course, the usual suspects always insisting that their version of events is the only valid version in town and always having to have the very last word in every discussion.

Absolutely, and suggesting there is is against the T&Cs of this place. Yeah, but I've seen all this before with the COVID-19 vaccinations. The official narrative on the COVID-19 vaccines was the word of God, and anyone saying anything other than the vaccines were the answer to the COVID pandemic got shrieked down. Dissenters were called "vaccine-deniers", much as anyone who dissents from the climate narrative is called a "climate-denier". It was an enforced consensus, which is to say, it was NOT a consensus, it was a narrative. (I've even shown you evidence of that enforced narrative.) It was a little frustrating and bemusing, but IRL, it didn't bother me in the slightest. I didn't get any of the COVID-19 vaccinations and am increasingly glad I didn't. However the information I used to reach my conclusion that I shouldn't get the COVID-19 vaccinations would not have passed your "Source!!!!?!!!" test. That does not make the decision I made based on that information incorrect. Nice idea, but such a thread would be shrieked into oblivion by the clique. Example: "The Elphant in the room" thread (with hilarious irony, given the premise of the thread) is now itself, conspicuous by its absence. You have to laugh! 😄

All of them, as long as the published paper has been through peer review. There is no enforcement. Only we are not qualified to comment on this matter just as we are not qualified to comment on effectiveness of COVID vaccine. However, the way certain things are run by the government (eg. ZEV mandate, lockdown, require vaccine for working) is a political matter and we are fully entitled to our opinions on how things should be run. Opinions of what count as political matter differs greatly, that's where situations like this thread arise and your sentiment arise. I personally think adoption of EV is linked to climate change, due to government mandates and their gaol of net-zero. But I'm happy to start a new thread called climate change if people want to move the discussion?

Do you know the purpose of the red wire? Have you removed it completely from the car,or just disconnected it from making contact with the fuse? That wire squeezed into the fusebox is a remarkably inept bodge of a modification to inflict on a 2019 vehicle, IMO. 🤨

So what? 🤷‍♂️ Hmmm. So no mainstream media outlets as a rule then, who almost invariably fail to provide links to peer-reviewed papers. Okay, what are the scientific journals that would meet with your approval? Enforced consensus is no consensus at all. Ugh! 🙄 Look, if there's to be a climate change "consensus" enforced on Briskoda, then fine. You're not going to force me to do anything IRL, but if that's how this place is going to be run, then so be it. We had the COVID vaccine "consensus" enforced on here, so it won't be the first time a "consensus" has been imposed on Briskoda. If that's how it is going to be, so be it. Let's just have a clear ruling on it.

My experience for what' it's worth. If pulling out the pump to clean, the oil will drain out of the pump. There is no explicit prime routine that I remember but if you fill to level of fill hole, then cycle ignition a couple of times you will find it takes another 300ml or so to properly top up. You don't have to rerun the adaption but it does optimise the voltages learned. Without running it, it stays static (as previously set at first install) and they aren't updated. There's a good explanation on one of the haldex service sites. This probably doesn't solve the OPs issue and I agree with the comments made to check. Although an unplugged haldex pump would normally report a code on full scan. But should be checked. Another possibility is the pump has failed.

A very odd and dodgy bit of additional wiring there. Even my old Landy with wiring for 'aftermarket accessories' at least went to a block somewhere in the birds nest.... I mean wiring loom and not a wire forced into a fuse holder. Hopefully it'll stay running fine for you.

Over at Eyemouth today with the R3.

Yes VCDS should reveal all, if it shows values for soot, oil ash etc then it thinks the car has one which indeed it does visually, you could try a forced regen but when I did that it refused saying a parameter was not met without saying what said parameter was, par for the course with the chocolate teapot. Keep an eye on the readings and also the DPF differential pressure, the values for soot and ash are calculated and not real, the diff pressure is real, if you see the soot and ash reading lower than they were (regen triggered at around 22g of soot I think) and also a lower diff pressure then its reasonable to deduce that DPF regens are being commanded and doing what they should. You could also look at the commanded and measured values of the EGR valve position, if it says N/A then its been coded out in as much as the ECU doesnt think it exists any more, maybe the coding is a software patch that pretends it is still there, in which case you can manually command it using Output Tests and feel it to see if the motor turns, in my case with the emulator simulator the EGR wont budge but the output from the position sensor (false output from simulator) will tell the ECU that it has moved by the correct amount. I hope the above makes some sense, I know what my black box (emulator) does but I dont know what the tuners do when they claim to "map out" something, I am speculating with an educated guess.

Once you know it, you know it I would loose it and the bolts that go with them. If you do replace them with normal bolts you will also need 4 nut/bolt covers to suit as the locker ones will fall off. Thanks. AG Falco

Either the picture angle, or you don't have lockers! The cap heads all look similar, but the actual body that goes over the bolt is hexagonal on the normal ones and circular on the locker.

Well the only thing is they use their own wrappers on these services so the wrapper may be discontinued before 4g. Mib3 being the wrapper so it's how long that is kept going for connected services. Probably 2030 then you get a disconnected car 😉. That's the normal EoL being 5 years after mib is moved to the next release. Time will tell.

Thank you, it actually turns out to be expected... The drive mode and the "drive" are different and while the drive mode persist the drive (gearbox mode) resets to normal every single time the car starts... Also being new to dsg I think I inadvertently flicked the gearbox to sport... Anyhow sounds like a lame explanation for a software bug or something...

Mine downloaded that in about 15 minutes when i drove to work and left the car update itself when i was at work.

The ABS can need activating on some cars to bleed the brakes, not turning off. Bleeding the master cylinder is important, I had almost no brakes until I bled the master cylinder. Start by bleeding master cylinder then all four wheels.

Mib3 runs generally from models delivered from 2020. Some slip in, in 2019. Each MIB has a 5 year period then VAG is onto their next. Generally a 5 year level of support on navigation files but pull the rug quicker on other things. TMC where they didn't want to know about the service closing down, POIs etc. All mib2 stuff. Mib3 uses optional connect services with a payment delivered differently in different countries. Thus Internet radio is via 4g, traffic reports, firmware updates etc, if you don't renew the contract then it's like mib2 with offline updates. Navigation mib3 thread is this: Then @MartiniB has a radio icon update thread... which I have currently lost... hmm. Once you go offline by not making an annual payment you have to update the logos by hand. Useful for VW and Skoda, but Seat got left put by the VAG contracted logo providers. On mib3 satnav on this post I brought it all together on post 1 with the PDFs for the brands indexed. All the same instructions. You can read all PDFs if you like. 😉 https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/updating-the-inbuilt-mib3-satnav-offline.472408/ Looks like if you have renewed all subscriptions you can sit back and enjoy. Yes 4g is build into the mib3 equipment.

You will since 2023 means it's mib3. These are via connected services 4g. TMC is different. Not sure why these posts are on this thread since it's a mib2 navigation thread.

I'm not sure it's going to be relevant to yours, but I have found that after changing cam belt over Christmas, mine seems to have stopped smoking. It was showing a -1.5 torsion value before, and now is +0.5 approx. I think the four year old belt had stretched a bit; the belt tensioner pointer certainly wasn't anywhere near the notch. I think you can see the tensioner pointer with just top belt cover off. VCDS can tell you the torsion value in MVB4. Your VW specialist is probably going to check this sort of thing any way, if they feel it might be relevant.

This is an interesting set of YouTube posts. Firstly, UK electricity consumption is falling, not rising. At no time would we be left without electricity, there could be some industrial shut downs.

I'm not sure that such coding exists on PD engines. In fact I'm fairly sure it doesn't. That makes me distrustful of your garage. Possibility 3 (from youtube research alone, I'm a PD newbie) might be that they fitted this other injector, but failed to de-burr the head where it sits, and the new seal(s) were ripped on the way in. Apparently that's a major risk. 2. sounds wildly unlikely to me.

The wet weather seems to play havoc with the KESSY system I find. I'm able to unlock my car without issue but can only lock it using the fob when the weather's really wet, which unfortunately for me it is a lot where I live. There's a thread on here somewhere about it which explains it in detail and also links to a fix, but it's not an easy fix by any stretch of the imagination. It's involves disassembling the door handles and altering them internally. Not something I'm willing to get involved with personally, the fact the video guide is in a foreign language didn't really fill me with confidence if I'm being honest. But it's here on the forum if you want to take a look at it, do a search for KESSY and it should crop up 👍🏼

@mark_irl just some general advice, not moaning at you, engine oil changes are based on time as well as milage and particularly for a car that is used for mostly short journeys and/or more arduous or in hotter or cold climates annually is really the maximum time limit you should go for. Also whilst the oil being in the A section is fine better to top it up to 'max' or just below than leave it until it drops below the 'A section'. Unless your driving conditions are normally quite/very bad or other cause then the lateness of this engine oil and filter change would not have caused any of the suggested issues, nor of course the oil level being in the 'A section'. There is hope as to be fair to your first mechanic he did say he couldn't be sure without properly looking at it (but he could have had a better beside manner) and you have being driving the car around. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

I think to feel superior on this issue, you need to be driving around in a vehicle that you've convinced yourself is somehow fighting climate change.

Mine was in for the 4th occurrence of this fault where it could be practically guaranteed to alarm in any journey exceeding 10 miles. Initially it was diagnosed as a faulty aerial (there are 2, both previously changed, one twice. This time technical requested a software update. I was a bit dubious, as software updates hadn't fixed it before, but this time it hasn't faulted since. although I have only taken it out twice since it was carried out.

I don't believe u can alter this stuff with VCDS. Max height electronically will b less than max height manually. It will b a safety thing, to protect the struts. Do u have a wagon or liftback?

The most recent offline is 24.6 which @MartiniB has posted at the top. Online services once you come off them there will be a delay of 6-12 months before you can do better with offline that is this thread, catching up process. I had asked where in these files was the release code, on this thread and a kind sole told me: This is really useful for us people that look across releases to study what each of the three main brands are offering, the files are interchangeable but not all are recent, for example Seat lags significantly in their offline free posted offer. (You do need a bit of SQL database knowledge to poke about in the files... isn't something you need to do yourself if you take what's posted up as is... as said more for us to audit what is going on. Under no circumstances attempt to save these files after poking about since that wont work and they are encryption signature protected. Look but dont change, same with mib2 high... thats answers your question on how do you know.) So MartiniB now takes a look using this method (I believe) hence he denotes the current one (which will change) as 24.6 tallies with the contents. Basically you have a freeze date, a preparation date, release date. The yy.mm tallies with what is on the screen in Mib3. The ECE information tallies with the previous mib2 high method of denoting the releases. The production cycle of map changes generally means it takes about a year before new items in Here Map files get released. Online has an edge of 6-12 months, you pay for that in the online subscription and convenience. Thus the short answer if you are at 24.8 you can't out do that by 24.6. June 2025 you will.

Just buy or rent used then from all these actually new / Pre used cars. Businesses / lease companies and Motability will buy New if that is what they do. @EnterName? Who gets a FREE CAR other than if someone gifts them one or lends them one? Is that about Motability where people might get Benefits and then spend over £12,000 over 3 years to lease a car?

On the LED headlamp models it's an LED strip. On the bulb headlamp models it's a bulb.

Another video I just watched about a Tesla Model 3, and it's good and bad in equal parts and the video was I felt totally unbiased and other car manufacturers should be worried by what they have got right, but I'll leave it there, and let you if you feel inclined to watch the video, discover more for yourselves. What is going on this forum, or at least this thread seems to be pretty dead today?

AFAIK, it's Every 210000km w/o time limit. The required tools, are quite standard tools for dry belts.

We (well my wife) test drove a 1.0 DSG as they didn't have a 1.5 in to try. I agree about the performance as even three up with the sales guy, the performance wasn't lacking. But I'm old school and there will be four in the car on occasions so we stuck with the decision to go with the 1.5. Ours is the SE L and we are very pleased with it. Didn't go for ACC as neither of us use CC but we did go for a high spec. I don't drive it very often but when I do I really enjoy it.

Car unlocked, doors shut, windows up, key not in car and bonnet up. Remove negative first and positive second and refit the reverse way round. OBDeleven to code the new battery. Set the new AH if different and change the serial number. Just add one to the original number. Turn steering full lock both ways. Reset clock. Drive round the block. First clue to a poor battery is that the stop/start never works. Battery:- EFB 027 Try Tanya Batteries when you need one:- https://www.tayna.co.uk/search/efb 027 Thanks. AG Falco

Generally the VW are better links... Skoda often messes up the zip process, whilst Seat have a siesta.

The issue isn't necessarily diameter, the overall wheel diameter will be unchanged since the lower profile of the tyres will offset the diameter increase. A bigger concern is the width of the tyre, to ensure that the chains don't foul suspension or brake components on full lock.

Came across this on YouTube a 2025 Fabia update which looks fantastic,might want to hold off for this?

Don't rule out the 1.0 TSi 116bhp either. My partner has one with a manual gearbox and it's a lovely car to drive and is nippier than you would expect. Really nice cars now though. I'm seriously impressed with the interior build quality having come straight from a MkIII.

Bought couple weeks ago. 2021 with 13k on it.

VED is going through the roof, with max VED being £5490 in the first year of ownership, and an inflated VED of £600 for five years if your car is over £40,000 when purchased. That seems a bit harsh, as inflation means £40K gets you a lot less than it used to a few years ago, but I suppose that's the point of inflation. It's the rising tide that catches everyone. (Everyone without a clever accountant at least. ) https://www.parkers.co.uk/car-tax/advice/new-car-tax-rates/

If you've bought a VRS and want to drive it like a VRS then, as posted before. - ". .. however for the GTI and R models we recommend super-unleaded (98RON)". - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/need-help/need-help-faqs/fuel.html If you have any diesel I pray you put in something like, but not necessarily, Shell V Power diesel for the sake of the minor improvement for those on the road and on the pavements, a quick gear drop and jump on the accelerator and look in your mirrors ought to show you the difference between ordinary and "clean" type diesel. For anyone interested in the 97/99 octane petrols with higher additives. - petrol.pdf Aren't we all lucky to be able to have any car(s) and afford to own and drive them and put any fuel in them.