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Check out this beast, it's been done. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vN7T2_ERG9Y In theory yes, it's possible to do without fault codes as the ECU software is the same across all MQB platform cars with differing parameters.

We spotted a colourful Moon on the way home from feeding the birds this evening...

Finally I have it all working as it should. I took the stalk to pieces, very easy as only held together with one torx screw and found a white 'cup' into which the 'ball' on the end of the stalk fits. This piece has moulded grooves inside which determine whether the stalk holds in place or not on full beam. In the photo below its the white plastic piece. All I had to do was swap this 'cup' for the one in the original stalk. It just slides out with another guide underneath. Back together with the original black 'cup' in place. One torx screw to do up and fitted back on the car in 5 minutes. Thankfully in the end it was an easy fix and now the car has cruise control and headlights that stay on full beam when they're needed.

I think you mis-took what I posted. Salford Skoda said he didn't have a rail down the right hand side. My post was you only get a rail down the right with varioflex. ie. Standard seats, rail on left only. Vatio Seats, rail on left AND right.

I've had the Police ask for footage at my own property and at a rental I have. For both they have not asked for a complete data dump. They have been happy for me to look through the footage and clip anything I think relevant.

Cue comments about the lady with you..... :-) I know what you mean, though. It would be fun in court, like something out of Allo, Allo. About half a century ago, I did know someone who got caught shagging a sheep.... I say "did know" we went to the same school and a few years later he got caught in a field by two police men with torches. The field was over a river on the side of the town. There was a footbridge and being a farming area prone to poachers, someone heard a sheep making a noise late at night. Assumed it was poachers, called the police, who went to investigate....

I have an ex-police Octavia. I have so far resisted the temptation to visit all the addresses they left in the sat nav to find out what mischief the residents were up to!

I’ve answered my own question here chaps. After a bit of searching these pages I found some posts which told me the blower motor was in the passenger footwell, covered by a single sheet of foam insulation, here it is: … it is a bit fiddle, but the whole unit just unscrews (about 1/8 turn clockwise looking up at the motor) and with some finagling drops down without even removing the electrical connector: The spindle was just stuck - there was no obvious reason why but it freed up with a few spins by hand and a bit of WD40. The unit was equally fiddly to re-fit, and difficult to find the right start and finish points for the locking tabs (I hope I have it all right). It all works fine now and I’ve removed the fault code with Carista. This whole process only took about 10 minutes and seems to have cured the problem completely. I’d booked the Skoda in for an air conditioning re-gas on Tuesday, I’m not sure it really needs that now, but it hasn’t been done for some years so I’ll get it changed anyway (and the cost is only £65). Alan Addendum: credit to Sanmart here: Sanmart post

Hi, A couple of months ago, it became difficult to start the engine on my Super MkIII. I had to press harder on the ignition switch and/or press several times before the engine started. I tried to clean the contacts with a contact cleaner spray, without unmouting the switch; It did work better, but not for long. So, I decided to have a go at it, and it's a simple fix really. First, you need to take off the bottom cover of the steering column. There is one Torx screw underneath the steering column. Once removed, you can slide the top part towards the steering wheel, and lift it up: this part is just clipped in place. Rotate the steering wheel when you have lifted the top cover: two more Torx screws appear on each side. Unscrew them and the bottom cover will fall. Unplug the two connectors, one for the antenna, one for the switch. To get the switch out, insert two small screwdrivers from the inside of the bottom cover, in the slots on each side of the switch. It will pop off. Once you have extracted the switch, you need to open it: it is quite straight forward, 4 tabs to lift (delicately) on the top, no springs inside so nothing will jump away. This switch is build like the gaming controllers: four conductive silicone pads make contact on a copper plate. I found the silicon pads and the copper plate to be quite dirty. I cleaned them with a soft pad soaked in contact cleaner, and, after drying, applied a very light coat of conductive grease on each side. It works like a charm now, I can start the engine with the slightest touch from the tip of my pinky. Of course, the other solution is to buy a new switch, but I doubt the construction of the switch has changed and the switch is quite expensive (for what it is). But I enclose a pic of the part's references in case you need it.

We have been increasingly unhappy with our UK 2024 Fabia mc. However, I’ve managed to make a really useful upgrade for around £20. Both of us have been annoyed by the useless windscreen wipers on the front. They drag noisily across the windscreen and leave uneven streaks. There was a useful thread on the forum covering the rear wiper. It went on to mention problems with the front ones. Like much of the Fabia kit the wipers seem poor quality and apparently the dealerships will typically fit new wiper blades which have the same issues but cost mega money. After some doubts I ordered a pair of Bosch A864s wiper blades. The were bought on Amazon and are a straight swap. Avoid anything where the picture shows an adapter to fit the blades to the arms. These are made to fit the car exactly. They are easy to fit but I suggest using a towel to protect the glass. I couldn’t do the job without pulling the arms well away from the glass and slightly levering the blades while pushing down the little square button that locks the blades in position. The Bosch wipers are working silently and without leaving smears. The result has been magical.

@pinkpanther i believe that canadas wildfires are the cause of the orange moon and skies in some places ,i read summat earlier today .

Shame to hear that. Doesn't seem like mechanics want to do any problem solving anymore. Just a good old, replace the whole engine. Oil light came on again after heading back from the inlaws on a 110 mile journey Stopped at a service station and noticed some new oil marks on the oil pcv valve, I made sure I wiped it clean before I set off and intentionally did not top up the oil. So im going to maybe investigate the pcv valve a little further. Will take a pic and post later

You only get a rail down the right hand side if you have vario flex seats.

Ex colleague of mine, 178 mph on his speedo on the A12 some years back. Gixer 1000. Was it Top Gear who tested and confirmed you use to be able to go quicker than some speed measuring system could cope with ? Its odd that you can fly a few hundred miles over to Germany and legally drive on some motorways at 155 mph. More if you want and had the car delimited and, of course told your insurance you have done so. Renaults and Volvos are now limited to 113 mph I gather and many EVs will barely do 100 mph as single geared and hit the rev limits. Some EVs have 2 gears and can do more than 125 mph, some even more than 155 true speed. Even digital speedo seem to overread by 4 or 5% or so. Quite happy to be limited to 100 mph. Getting to 30,40 or 50 mph quick is more important. Looking forward to the Mini Cooper E and Go Kart mode.

I have to say, I’ve been in and around the bottom suspension arms and anti roll bar bushes with a big lever. I can’t see any movement from the bushes. I noted that the dealer had ‘white marked’ the nuts and bolt heads on lower suspension components. Either testing my integrity, or if their working loose?? Going by what your saying I recall many moons ago Pug 309 had the same issue. It didn’t occur to me until the cornering noise… shifting load on the shafts !!

Thanks again. I can see that there is no ‘exact science’ in respect of ‘marques’. I suppose most are lucky or unlucky when it comes to ‘changeover of spec’ etc. The design of my ‘boot’ no longer allows for any hooks on the right hand side, which is a shame as I find them useful. I must admit that my purchase was a speedy completion, as the salesman we are familiar with at RRG, rang me to say there was an unregistered SE L that had just shy of £10K off the list price. I jumped at the chance and whilst the salesman did mention the odd thing it no longer had, that was a massive saving for a brand new Karoq SE L.

Nope, turned out that all they did and are willing to do, and did was to just plug in their proper VW group diagnostic kit and scan for any fault codes and do a thorough visual check for any oil leaks, and none were found. The DPF was not reporting that needed cleaning or replacing. When I picked the car up that they told me they found no error codes at on the engine, only codes were for the electric seat adjustments memory, the virtual pedal for the boot opening and a bad air quality sensor ☹️, all of which I already knew from using my VCDS. They told me that if my information was correct, then it was out of spec as there is technical bulletin for my engine to say that its normal for my engine to be using about .5 litre every 600 miles. For that they charged me £90. They claimed that to any more precise would mean costly stripping down the engine to examine the cylinders and rings, and valve guides and the turbo, or supply and fit a new engine would be around the £14,000 mark. Claiming it is not possible to do a rebore, or fit new cylinder liners to VW engines.?? So what ever happened to the old method of doing compression tests on each cylinder, and if any were low, squirting a drop of oil into the cylinder to see if the low reading was due to worn rings or not? Like yours, my car seems to run just fine, engine has rock steady temperature and never seems to shift from the 90 degree mark on the gauge and pulls like a steam train, never drops any speed on inclines and keeps up with traffic just fine and will if I want to overtake anything, do it with ease. So I'll just keep an eye on it for now

Not sure but personally I would look for 1.9tdi MK2 PD engine. Had one for 5 years with high mileage and no problems. No dpf fitted and best MPG was over 70. Apart from odd bushes and ball joints it was bomb proof. Alasdair

Over the years I've had a few systems, of course Swann, a couple of the generic IP systems sold on Amazon and a NAS based Synology system. Last year I installed a Reolink NVR and now have eight cameras of different styles around the property. The trackmix and duo cameras I'm really impressed with. I went for Reolink after watching Paul Hibert Tech reviews on youtube. The entire system has been 100% reliable and I'm more than happy with the system, web interface, app and the notifications. I don't have security on/off lights but have seven LED floods on dusk to dawn to keep the property permanently illuminated. Reolink apparently do some great colour nightvision cameras but I don't need them. Track mix at night.

Yeah, generally the speed vans are jobsworths. On a motorway, the police likely wouldn't bother looking twice below 80mph. Speed vans however, will do you for 73mph because they have nothing better to do (10% + X guidance is not for them). Agreed - also depends if it's S1 or S2, in my experience.

On a lighter note i would love to be nicked for being drunk in charge of a cow ,thats so funny Ps i dont own any cows 😁

There are more threads than just these on converting to Discs with Mk2, be that hatch or estate. Maybe look in the 'Guide Section'. Just a case of getting the parts then.

Sorry, my bad, I thought you was implying that drivers up your way were more law-abiding than ours 😉The best bit is that where those drivers were caught, there are a few stretches of A12 with average speed cameras and is also patrolled frequently by unmarked police cars, some drivers are no more than flipping Muppets.

From Dealership(s) my wife has paid - 'Visual Health Check' is a computer paper colour print out has printed name of person "Inspected by" and "Quality Control by" (same name on the sheet I'm looking at now for both, 'Maintenance list' is paper printed grey scale ticksheet is 'biro' ticks to boxes and "Date / signature (person responsible" and "Date / signature (final check)" have large date at each and same initials on both.

I would consider whether the Scala and Octavia are the right cars if mobility becomes an issue - e.g. bending and sitting down / getting back up? You may want to consider whether a SUV style vehicle, or at least something slightly higher off the ground, may make getting in and out easier in the future if you plan for this to be your last car?

Hi, If your filter actually looks like the pic, I'd say it's not the right one. I've changed the fuel filter numerous time on both TDI150 and TDI190 engines, the right one is not like that. The last one I've changed was in april this year. It's higher, diameter is smaller and there's no pipe. Besides I don't remember it has a plastic part on its lower end. OEM reference for your car is 5Q0127 177B. Check if you've ordered the right one or, if you've made no mistake, maybe the website didn't send you the one you've ordered... 🙄 it unfortunately happens.

I have the flex rear seats and the roller bot cover but not the left/right driving for the lights. Which I didn't realist until I checked a couple of days ago. Also front fogs are not LED I also found two less hooks in the boot so asked for 2 more which they threw in. The cargo nets were there (unopened) I had an April 2024 Registered car but a 2023 Mfr according to the Vin. Mine tells me I have 17-inch tyres too. Though, I have the 18 inch Miran alloys and 18 inch tyres fitted. As mine was a Škoda Dealer Demo with 3K4 miles on the clock (and other toys) I had a good deal but.... sometimes you do think some of the other toys might be nice.

Well, it did not take long for the investigation into the huge bus fire in Philly's bus dept. Arson for insurance claims and indeed arson full stop has been completely ruled out, the cause was wait for it... an electric bus that had its battery drained to a low SOC, and had all the isolation plugs etc removed and had been standing in the parking lot for simply ages, thus demonstrating just how volatile these batteries are, even when not being used or charging and all the safety measures had been in place with one notable exception, the physical clearance between the vehicles recommended by Thatcham for electric vehicles awaiting repair with known issues (the spaces shown are cars, so buses would require even larger spaces) This just goes to show the real hazards involved with batteries we currently have, most of which are Lithium-ion and like it or not they clearly do present a massively greater hazard to the environment then ICE vehicles as they do not have to meet these requirements because they are not anywhere near as dangerous. The following has been extracted from the 2023 report from Thatcham Research, link is here Impact-of-BEV-Adoption-on-the-Repair-and-Insurance-Sectors-report-Innovate-UK-and-Thatcham-Research-FINAL.pdf

The original post may be 8 years old, but the current comment are, well, current. The information hasn't changed much anyway in that time.

You know you're arguing over an 8 year old post right?

3.9 miles to the kWh today over 84 miles of keeping to the speed limits and there were no speeders, maybe because nose to tail traffic pretty much all the way. Pita is ElectroVerse card not allowed this time and needed CPS card. Charging speed good and just need 80 miles range in case of needing to take a diversion. £8.50 for this charge

This was changed for the 2022MY (which the OP has) as owners state in this Briskoda posting

Sorry I found the thread but there wasn't a resolution (so far anyway). You might need to find someone good with ODIS to help sort this. If you are using OBDeleven and this Moderator is still on the site he seems to know a fair bit about coding and such like. - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/16551/control-module-incorrectly-coded-u101400 HTH.

@Ootohere yes Vintage rally at Kildrummy Castle.

Yes it can be a fright to catch a glimpse of a Metro bonnet and windscreen - and start to think crikey that’s very close!

2022 Sportline would not have had a Heated front screen as standard. If you have heated front screen you will have button circled in red above MENU.

For similar reason I keep a full paper service history and place it in the car when I sell it or trade it in.

The same question has been asked on the Facebook Karoq Group. An owner of a 24 Karoq had had a removable towbar fitted without problems, So i asked for more details - this was his reply:Hi, it was an Aragon detachable, vertically engaging, towbar and dedicated 13 pin electrics. It recognises the trailer when connected and disables the rear sensors ( but not the rear fog light, which I thought a little odd). Had it done at Telford towbars on the recommendation of my local dealer.

Surprisingly, I added even more! I thought the extra steps would help! 🤣

Ah yes, the age-old ritual of entering a car forum, full of hope, typing in "weird rattling noise when reversing uphill on Tuesdays," and being rewarded with 200,000 results, including one about a kettle in Lithuania. Classic. You're not alone, Chippers. Search functions are a bit like that one relative who means well but gets confused and brings a fire extinguisher to a birthday party. The trick is using quotes for exact phrases otherwise, the search engine breaks your sentence into individual words and invites every possible result containing any of them. It's like asking a dog to find your slippers and coming back with everything you've ever owned. So instead of: Try: And if the forum lets you, use filters to limit results to specific sections like "MK1 Octavia" though let’s be honest, sometimes the search engine ignores that like your car ignores the check engine light. So with that in mind, let's explore a little more on how to use the search function... How to Actually Use Search (Without Losing Your Sanity):Use Quotation Marks for Phrases Type: Use the "Advanced Search" Options (click the gear icon near the search bar) Don’t just smash the Enter key. Click that little settings icon or "Advanced Search" link: "Find results in..." → Choose Topics or Posts "Search in forum..." → Select MK1 Octavia to avoid results from Fabia, Roomster, or the Bermuda Triangle. "Content titles only" → Tick this box to only search thread titles (not every post). Very handy for common issues. Use the “+” Sign for Must-Include Words Type: Use Filters After Searching After the search runs, refine your results on the left-hand side (if visible). Sort by date, relevance, or even by forum section. Still Lost? Use Google... but point it at Briskoda (This is especially helpful, and my go to... I'd much rather use this type of search, and best of all it can be used for any site). Sometimes it’s easier to search Briskoda from Google. Type: And yes, "tabs," "topics," and "threads" sound like something from a 2003 tech startup brainstorming session. All we want is a big shiny button that says “Find my damn issue.” You're doing great! Mechanic or not, you're navigating a maze designed by caffeine fueled web developers with a grudge against clarity. I hope this helps! As we were all there once!

Any dealer worth buying from should just hand you the keys and let you take a 15-30 minute test drive. Walk away and tell them that you're walking away as you weren't able to have a proper test drive of the car. If they shrug and say "Okay, goodbye." you've just dodged a bullet.

Just some BS about "that's out policy". The mechanic who came out (got him via ClickMechanic) said he'd been to do an inspection at that very branch some months before and was allowed. But he also said they seemed to have upped their security - he was required to provide various ID etc that he wasn't asked to do previously. It was the same BS about only being able to do a 5 minute test drive - "it's out of our hands, it's all we are allowed to do". It may well be their policies, but it is definitely irritating for a customer.

If there is no aftermarket towbar available what is the point of Skoda fitting towbar prep to all their Karoqs? Try Hazzy Days in Markyate, near J9 of the M1. I have used them in the past and they also do retro fit work for Richter Sport and Audi dealers. In May 2024 I contacted Richter to fit a removeable swan-neck Westfalia towbar to my Karoq, (same as they'd fitted to my Touran.) They discovered that the only towbar that was available for my Sept 23 reg Karoq was the Skoda electric swiveling one. I did contact Hazzy Dayz and they said they could fit a Westfalia - in the end I had Richter fit the Skoda factory fit electric one. As my original post said it wasn't straight forward; firstly it took nearly 3 months for all the parts to arrive as one item was on back order to Skoda, and then there was the issue with the coding. I think there has been a change to the security of the CANBUS configuration somewhere towards the end of the 2023 models, such that its no longer possible for 3rd parties and even Skoda Dealers to 'code' in new features. For example in Sept 24 I asked Richter if they could code Traffic Sign Recognition as my Karoq has all the right hardware already, but Skoda wouldn't release the code to them. I spoke to Hazzy Dayz and took my car over them. They attempted to do it and were blocked and could not access the necessary modules. Hazzy Dayz have some very good techies who were surprised as they'd done this same change to an Audi of the same age the previous week. Hope your are able to find a resolution.

Hi, I've done it once with VCDS. I don't know VAWS 3.0 and if there are any difference. Here is the procedure with VCDS: 1) Ignition on, engine off, handbrake released, foot NOT on brake pedal, open 03-ABS > Basic setting. Then look for "Start lining change" or something to that effect in the drop down menu. 2) Piston is then pushed back, do not wind, you'll break it. 3) No tool needed, a lever bar between disc and pad or flat screw driver, G clamp or any other tool will work to push back 4) Once pads changed and caliper refitted (and spring as well), pump the brake pedal lots till full contact is made 5) Ignition on, engine off, foot NOT on brake, open 03-ABS > Basic settings. Then look for "End lining change" in the drop down menu, wait till its done (roughly 40 seconds). This enables the handbrake learning the new rear pad thickness in order to adjust the correct pressure to apply, when handbrake is ON. 6) Cycle ignition, put handbrake on and off a few times, done. Don't forget to brake gently for 200km or so to bed the pads... 😉 Hope this helps.

Not much of a sunset earlier, but a colourful Sun nonetheless..................

Well here's what happened FWIW. Motorway valued it around £15,000 Autotrader around £14,500 I decided to stick an ad on Autotrader and see what happened. Before the offer posts they offer the chance to sell it via their 'Dealer Auction' service where it goes out to dealers in an online auction for a couple of days. As it's free I thought I might as well give it a go. Once it finished I got a phone call to discuss the results. Highest offer was about £13,700 which I wasn't happy with. They asked a couple of questions and then phoned back later and said the dealer said he would go up to £13,850 on the basis that I had the parcel shelf (it was missing in my photos). I rejected this too. They tried to put the frighteners on me saying it takes on average of 30 days to sell the car privately and I would have teams of boy racers coming round to floor the GTI. I put it on Autotrader as a standard ad at £14,750. Later the same day I had a call from BigWantsYourCar saying they could offer the full asking price. I sent them a few extra pictures highlighting any damage (few scratches and a couple of the alloys kerbed slightly) but they maintained the price. Dropped it round at the nearest site to me (they also offer free home collection). A chap came out and spent probably 15-20 minutes looking over the car including a short drive around the car park. The moment of truth arrived - I had been expecting at least some kind of attempt to try and knock me down on price but he simply came in and said he was happy with it. He then took the service documents, V5 etc and came back a few minutes later saying I should have an email from them which I did. Entered my bank details and a few seconds later the money was in the account! Overall very happy with the way it all went - very hassle free and not trying to negotiate on the price was a big plus! I might have managed to get slightly more for it from a private seller but selling to a dealer was way less hassle as well as less risky. For anyone who's thinking of selling a car I would definitely give them a go. Oh and WBAC's offer was £2,000 less than I got (and before they try and beat you down too...)

Removing the glovebox takes a 2-3 minutes, installing a live feed another 5-10 minutes. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530426-how-to-remove-karoq-glovebox-2023-onwards/

&look and see the maximum amount of any warranty claim. Worth a look at recent Harry's Garage Video about his Jaguar Warranty and annual service and maintenance and warranty work discovered. Thread in General Automotive chat Harry's Garage had video linked.

If they (Vertu) are selling you both the vehicle AND the warranty, then them using the excuse that the prior servicing was not up to scratch, to void any warranty work would not 'cut the mustard', as they say. But yes, get it in writing too, just in case...... Also though, consider their own lead times for actually getting a broken down vehicle worked on??? Certainly make sure a courtesy / loan car is included and that there are no 'get out' clauses.

I always remove the filter, do the cleaning session without it and then put back new filter in (or old one if its not too old and in a good conditon).