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As others have said, a 2.3kW granny charger will provide plenty of heat over time. Your point is valid however, as my car will use around 5kW at max heat early on so not quite half would be met by the granny charger but still better than the ICE car that relies 100% on it's fuel tank to warm up your car. A proper wall charger will meet 100% of the power need for pre-heating. But people do do it, especially if the windows are frozen over.

Am I right in saying that the car doesn't have an accessory belt that is seperate from the main cambelt? I thought the accessory belt WAS separate from the cambelt.

http://arnoldclark.com/innovation-centre Arnold Clark Electric Innovation Centre Glasgow & their Pure Genius staff or the Pure Dead Brilliant ones have a selection of EV,s all in one place to check out. Amazingly AC can still have muppets at the Service Department that when doing a booking will ask if you want a fuel treatment offer.

Mrs said "I'm not driving a Ford", not quite sure what's behind the vehemence of that reply but I shant challenge it. I've not had a Ford since about 2001 when I had a Mk1 Focus but tbh I quite liked that.

I wasn't denied but seemed cheeky to push when I was in no way interested in the car they had. Didnt have much time anyway with kids and dog in the other car. There is another dealer closer to us with a used ID3 I'll go myself and get a drive in that.

+ MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.58 to head post

At last a few others who agree it is a pretty serious safety issue....

We spotted what appears to be a Greylag & Canada Goose Hybrid 🤔 Who knew such a thing was possible!

Although I wanted the Sportline, (and found a good deal) I had heard many stories about the hard ride, and with my wife and I having dodgy necks, I decided to change the wheels right at the start. So when I bought the car from the Skoda main dealer, I did a deal on the 17 inch Ratikons - they supplied only a set of four for me. I then took the alloys (and some wheel bags) to my tyre shop who then put the tyres on the alloys and swapped the 19's for the 17's on the car. The bags with the 19's are now sitting in the corner of my garage, and are not likely to move for a good while. As people say an added benefit is better rim protection, which I have to quietly admit has come in very useful

Thanks for the link Gaz. Lots to read in that thread for sure.

previous thread -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531209-brake-peddle-knock/ the complaint were rejected by dealer, it's a standard behavior, my previous 2016. Mk3 hadn't that, isn't an argument

I'm trying to work out why you would need a specialist tool. Is it just to lock the clutch arm? I did a gearbox on a 1.6 years ago and can't remember it being anything special at the gearbox end (never took the pedal box end of the cable off). My normal method of doing a clutch cable is press the pedal, get a volunteer to hold the clutch arm in place with a crowbar, release the pedal and the cable should be loose to move.

I shall indeed. Thank you for chiming in. Hopefully it's a good outcome 😄

No need to do that, it would depend on the actual car in question. My point is pretty clear, surely? The supplied cable that came with the car is going to be up to the job of supplying the current. Every metre of cable added on will add to the overall impedance of the entire circuit feeding power to the car. It is that extra cable that is the point of where everything can suddenly go downhill rapidly, you can buy extension leads from Poundland that may only just be capable of handling 5A max. The cable it self may well be copper coloured aluminium, the plug pins maybe even made from hollow extrusions, the socket contacts may be of poor quality etc. It might be an idea to try and find out how many fires the Fire Brigades think are down to such poor leads. Most people really do not much of an idea when it comes what is and what is not safe to use. Just as @Luckypants said about people warming their ICE up by leaving it idling, so some people will and do, add on cable to their granny leads.

Does not work with Felicia,i have personal experience and i have posted photos.

Hello all. I'm Jim, 43 from Norwich and I took ownership of my wonderful Skoda Octavia VRS 2016 MK3 in November. And I am absolutely in love with it!

Thank you for the response. I just scanned the car with carista and got this code. B121C15 – Right low beam headlamp reflector motor: Open circuit/short circuit to B+ Freeze frame Priority: 3 Malfunction frequency counter: 1 Like I said, apart from the dipped beam. The light works absolutely fine.

Thanks so much. I now have a new axle which I will attempt to fit next week. I can't see any part numbers on it, but it appears to be visibly identical to the one on my car. The new axle is off a 2013 car.

just checked my manual and it says rim 6Jx16 ET43 and tyre 215/60 R16 for chains in snow I will ask for a technician from the main dealer to confim in writing.

I had a good chat with the salesman who sold me the car, after he did his checks he called me back and long story short the car I bought cannot run on different wheels as it was setup with the 18 inch tyres, i even offered to pay them to do so, but was declined and told is not possible. Apparently you cannot even choose any other tyre sizes other than 18 if you order a new SE-L trim. They advised to stay with the same wheels, can change tyre brands but to remain with the same tyre specs - the Goodyears F1 assymetrics are same spec however I have been using them for years in many cars without issues.

I've stopped trying to keep up with new hubs opening, due to there being so many. I don't worry about needing a charge at any stage these days even though I rarely charge away from home. However a little landmark for EV charging - there are now over 1000 hubs in the UK and Ireland.

I can confirm that I spoke to my insurers about going from 19 inch to 17 inch with the appropriate change in tyre profile, and they just noted it in their files. I followed the Skoda brochure on wheel/tyre profile combinations, and even bought Skoda Ratikon alloys (actually mainly because I like the simple design). The choice of tyre was down to the fact that the majority of my annual mileage is done on autumn/winter/spring,, so all season tyres made sense. After that it was a question of which tyre I visited the tyrereviews.com website to get some idea what was around, and the comfort levels etc of each tyre. So far no regrets

No I don't think it needs 'coding' and if it doesn't work plug and play I think you can return it and get your money back under eBay protection, this assumes it is the module and nothing else at fault.

Hi jim Glad your enjoying the car!

OK. So good news. Skoda Customer Services responded to my enquiry and then spoke to my local dealer providing them with all the details they needed in terms of parts and coding. It's not cheap (I didn't expect it to be). £1500 incl parts, labour & VAT. It's being fitted on Thursday so I'll let you know how I get on 🤞

The other two keys are sitting far away from the car, don't think they would be interfering. btw. the message that was showing before during the start is the standard "safelock" message. Started the car few times yesterday, three times today, starts ok just now.... Spoke to Fifetech Auto, they gave me a list of things to check, but so far all these things do look ok, and since this is intermittent issue, it will be a nightmare to diagnose... Skoda Aberdeen are happy to book me for diagnosis .... on the last day of July :D:D:D Love how you can explain to them - this is the car, this is the issue, this is my timescales... "ok, let me check and call you back asap" - when they call you back after 2hrs, they say wrong car, wrong issue, and completely outside the dates you mentioned ... :D

Up to my eyeballs at the moment - made a note and will get back to you in due course

Yes I'd be interested Steve - although I'd expect the default settings to allow stall-free driving lol

I guess as some kind of GT racer it looks good. Not for everyday though. It missed the point of a hot hatch. What grade did your teacher give it?

Hi. Thanks for letting me join. My first Skoda was a 1000mb mk2 bought in 1974, after that I had virtually every model till my last a 1997 Felicia L. I was a member of the SOC for years and won a holiday to CZ in 1980 given by Cedok. I did loads with Skoda back in the day. Marriage and kids came in the way and TBH I didn't particularly like the VW influence. I have just bought a very cheap 2015 Octavia 1.6Tdi from my neighbour, very cheaply, an ex private hire Taxi which has the oil pump belt break at 196,500 miles, there is some slight big end noise when hot and I'm going to set about fixing it. At 71 I suppose I'm daft but why not? Kind regards Trevor MM0KJJ

If you cant find any leaks in pipes it might be worth changing MAP anyway as it pinged up a fault code previously. At least you would know its not the MAP or MAF. Alasdair

Front Assist is part of the standard specification of all Skoda Fabia Mk 4 models. This forum thread related to a 2023 'Colour' car.

Hi @Ootohere, My engine code is DTUA. According to your screen shots, it could be a DQ381 actually. Thanks! Anyway, I should go to my dealer soon, since my ´blue bear’ is about to have 45000 km on the clock. I’ll ask them to confirm the right DSG7 type. 😉

Hello Ian Yes, it can be done 👍 I’ve a feeling the best place this retrofit is explained will be in @SashaGrace's thread: And well worth the read it is too 😎 Gaz

Apple will do the same thing

Hi Nigel. No the head bolts on the 135 are not stretch types. From memory not even final angle tightening, mind you I'll check for you to be 100% sure. It's a long time since I've had a head off an OHV Skoda 🤓

My 1.5 Sportline did 60 miles from new before I changed from 19 inch to 17 inch with 215/55 R17 Continental All Season 2. The result is a better ride over potholes etc. The trade off is that the steering isn't quite as precise, but I am happy to live with that. Personally I also think the car looks better with more tyre on show Life is all about compromises

Search this forum for tyres, there is a member who has posted some very useful replies which list all the possible sizes and profile combinations. Most owners complain about the 19 inch rims with R40 tyres. ECO tyres are often stiffer, another factor is the beam axle rear suspension on 2wd versions - 4x4 models have the multilink rear suspension.

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@wyx087 I am not buying one new, but it is nice to know how they are & maybe down the line when they are Cheap as chips i will. One with steel wheels. There is always going to be a model that a few years old proves to be good. Like the Oxford built MINI Electric. Now 2023 ones are @ asking prices £20,000 less than the RRP when new. £5-6,000 less asking prices than a Petrol one that was £5,000 cheaper when new. They (Stellantis / FIAT) surely must evolve and develop and not keep turning out crappy motors or ones with fundamental design, manufacturing or material faults. . They surely learn from VW Group failing to remember 'Vorsprung Durch Technik'.

Hi, welcome Trevor. Er, yes, you might be daft, but hopefully at least it'll keep you out of trouble. 😁 My Skoda ownership only goes back to 1985 and like you I wasn't a fan of the VW style of corporate Dealerships getting rid of the friendly helpful small back street Škoda Dealerships and the car quality actually went down when VW fully took over. Other than perhaps a Golf GTi Mk1 I've never been a VW fan, or German marques generally. I don't know if you saw there's a 'Classic Škoda' section of Briskoda where your knowledge and experience could be very helpful indeed. Only yesterday I was asked if the head bolts need changing with the head gasket (on a 135 engine IIRC) and as I didn't know for sure I didn't want to guess and now I have to search the threads and posts there to confirm what I guess. 'Classic Škoda' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/173-classic-%C5%A1koda/ In the mid-80s the(friendly and helpful back street ) Škoda Dealership lent me their "flagship of the fleet" Mk1 105 Estelle which they told me they couldn't kill and it's wiliness made up for it's lack of speed but boy was it's steering heavy compared to the Mk2(s) I had. All the best, Nigel.

Hi Chelon This sounds very similar to the issue we had with our 2023 1.5 TSi manual Karoq. Very easy to stall and not at all easy to drive in traffic. It left us with no power in the middle of complex junctions on more than one occasion. Re-starting after stalling appeared to take an eternity and wasn't always consistent (although of course this may have been as a consequence of being stuck with a stalled car in a tricky situation). I have owned a number of manual Volkswagen Audi group vehicles and never experienced this difficulty before. Based upon my experience with a manual 1.5 TSi I'd certainly consider this to be a safety issue. I did find the car a little less prone to stalling after switching the throttle mapping with Carista. More here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/521243-15-tsi-power-cutting-out/

This sounds to me as a malfunction. I used to drive a superb mk4, and your description reminded me of a incident on a highway near Verona a year ago. Car just stopped switching gears (DSG), and I had to stop and restart the engine to make it work. Ended up in Skoda Italia (coincidentally it is in Verona) and they said gearbox was faulty and up for a change. This sounds like similar issue to me.

A little update - brake issue resolved, vacuum pipe has a small split at the connection near the pump, fixed with tape and a hose clamp and I'll order a replacement pipe but it works for now. Also replaced the MAF with a known good replacement (Bosch genuine part) and then test drive - same issue as before, low power and smoking a lot. Now we've disconnected the battery and we're allowing the ECU to forget everything then we'll try again and see if that's made any difference. Otherwise, I'm stumped.

Playing cards on the spokes of the wheels. Sounded great on my pushbike when I was 7.

Thanks mate. Yes agreed a lot looks a bit brittle with ages and heat like you say, the more I'm looking then more I'm seeing that it has some sort of Nsf collision damage. Fairly new wishbone Drop links Radiator Burst CV boot Driveshaft only held into gearbox with 3 out of 6 bolts. Heaps of broken parts etc So it will take some time but I will get her on the road again.

Hello, after reading this thread, I decided to share the information I’ve gathered so far. I started experiencing the same symptoms as others described here: randomly increasing volume, key press sounds, unexpected screen restarts, and the display overheating. These issues occurred occasionally, mostly when using Android Auto: Waze, Spotify, etc. Updating the software from version 1896 to 1941 seemed to worked for a while. However, after about two weeks, all the symptoms returned, and the infotainment system began to restart endlessly. The restarts persisted even when the car was turned off and locked, throughout the night, and by morning, the car's battery was drained, I couldn't start the engine and had to jump-start it. Then, the infotainment restarts continued. The next morning, I couldn’t even unlock the car wirelessly due to a completely dead battery. At that point, I decided to contact my local Škoda dealer to report the issue. The person I spoke to said they had never seen such problems before and suggested I bring the car in for diagnostics. Since my car is no longer under warranty, and given the dealer’s attitude, I suspected they would charge me for every service. So, I decided to replace the display unit myself. I purchased a used display unit (5E3 919 605, HW version H49) from Poland for €180. Following the workshop manual, I disassembled the decorative trim and removed the top screw covers. Then pulled fuses 30 (infotainment) and 46 (infotainment display), swapped the displays, reconnected the fuses, and boom, everything worked like a charm! I've been driving occasionally for a week now, and so far, no problems have reappeared. My key takeaways:Replacing the display unit can be a DIY job. No coding needed and no component protection warning. A higher hardware version of the display is compatible with the older infotainment unit. Specs:Model Year: 2020 Display unit: was H44, now H49 Infotainment: H56 Software: 1941

13mm. Put one of the studs in your pocket when you go out for some, and ideally get nylocks. Put a washer each side of the supplied bracket because the holes are oversize.

Have you tried turning start-stop off? If the car new or new to you? If new to you is the battery healthy with a good CCA?

Thanks for all the tips here, I managed to get it working as well. I followed the steps from @theandywaite and had a very similar experience. I did managed to get it done without ODBeleven or VCDS however. Using the "Car Scanner Pro" app I was able to enable the Google GAL and Apple DIO features, and clear the DLC B201A error. This can be cleared just by choosing Confirmation of installation changes from the Multimedia coding menu, I didn't have to enter any codes with it or do the XOR calculation (done in the app above). There are several different ODB profiles you can use in the app, I used the "PQ25, PQ26, PQ35, PQ46, MQB: Diesel 1.6 TDI CAYA, CAYA engine" profile, and it seemed to have all the codings needed. I used a Carista dongle, at first I had a very cheap one but it wasn't able to handle any coding, the Carista one seemed to work find. I also enabled the GEM menu using Carista, but this could probably done in Car Scanner Pro instead. Carista is a horrendous app, I got a sales pitch pop-up on every click in the app even after paying for a short subscription, and it wasn't able to support all the coding steps to get this job done, best to stay away from it entirely. You get 3 codings in the free version of the CSP app, which is probably one too few to do all of this, but subscription is like £3 so no big deal. Overall it's possible to get this done with a £25 Carista dongle from eBay (I used a blue and white one), and a few £ for CSP.