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I didn't find time (or energy) yesterday to fit that replacement, refurbed manifold. Wednesday should give me the opportunity. Can't wait to see if it resolves the crankcase breathing issue (see vid above of oil filler cap dancing). Confirmed there was a problem by looking for a little 'suck' on the air inlet pipe* to the cam carrier/valve cover and finding not a hint of flow into the system. I'm quite confident that the manifold is going to be very wet with oil that hasn't separated properly, and that the little jet/hole seen in Saturday's post is going to be equally occluded. The spare manifold was from a car with around 1/3 or even 1/4 of the mileage that ours has. At idle, inlet manifold vacuum should be ported/jetted through that tiny hole found on Saturday, above. *That little air pipe has been made infamous by people breaking off the non-return valve at the engine end of it whilst changing the air filter, see here for example. From another SSP with slightly clearer diagrams and annotations than the Audi one, bottom right exploded view shows the 'suck' that ought to be happening at/near idle.

Striking Sky this evening...........

It seems that BYD is not alone, MG, here in the UK are also, along with their dealers trying to silence owners regarding issues with the cars which could even be dangerous. I have not posted any links, but could do so, or provide them by DM if requested. I really don't want to be constantly bashing EV's although no doubt some will think otherwise.

Berisford . Thanks for the info, in fairness to the dealer, they acted quickly in giving me the 74 plate Octavia estate to run around in so it will be interesting to see how long it takes to get my car back. As mines new at least I wont have to pay for repairs. Rory. I did wonder about the battery state but the stop/start still functioned so I presumed that the battery was pretty well charged .

I've just had the same issue in my Octavia & the issue was the left rear wheel speed sensor. A code reader is useful to help pinpoint the problem. I was lucky the the problem was just the sensor. The magnetic ring is built into the hub and can also often be the cause. I uploaded a post about it here:

First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

I have a 2025 SEL Superb hatchback. I love the car but there's one thing I'm less keen on. This is my 3rd car now with ventilated seats and it's something I now look for - perfect on hot days. However, the ones in the Superb seem very weak. In previous cars I've been able to feel cooling on my back but in this it just seems to take the edge off the heat a bit. Is this just the case on these cars or is my faulty? I usually have the cooled seat on max but it's just not as powerful as I'm used to or would like

In December 2020 we got this: Well, mostly. It didn't look exactly like that. It's had a few minor changes, and a couple of bigger ones. The minor ones are really just to make it a bit different; some are practical improvements and some are nothing more than trivial exercises in vanity. In terms of the way the car has treated us over the past forty eight and a half months it's done its best to be reliable, and bar a couple of very minor glitches (mostly infotainment-related, needless to say), it's succeeded. The first three and a half months of this relationship didn't go quite as well as we both had hoped. The car spent most of that time languishing round the back of the dealership with its discs slowly going rusty while it waited for a new rear diff. The original one made an interesting selection of unpleasant and unexpected noises on the way home from collecting it brand-spankers, and after a bit of a hoo-ha it turned out that the differential had quite a lot of swarf in it. And it sat there for weeks and weeks. I don't know, but I guess Covid had some bearing on all this. What did become clear was that there isn't a warehouse somewhere in an unremarkable town in the middle of Europe full of rear differentials just waiting to be picked off the shelves by a forklift driver wearing a woolly hat and a hi-viz jacket. The dealership were really good throughout. They lent us another Karoq for the duration, and did the best they could to get a new unit. There just weren't any lying around. Skoda UK were good too. I got regular progress reports from them, and they couldn't have been more polite and helpful. I don't know if the email expressing a modicum of disappointment that I sent to the Big Cheese had any bearing on this, but at no point did I get even the faintest whiff that I was being kept at arms length. Anyway, after weeks and weeks (and weeks) of the car not moving at all, it finally moved into the workshop in the February. I know this because I checked its location on the MySkoda app. Sporadically to begin with, but after a while I'm ashamed to say I became unhealthily obsessed with looking to see if it had actually moved. It's sad. Kinda pathetic. I called the dealership for a sitrep. They said they'd fitted the new diff, but a diagnostic showed that the steering wheel's touch sensor had gone west and they couldn't give it back to me with a defective steering wheel. Turns out there isn't a warehouse somewhere in an unremarkable town in the middle of Europe full of replacement steering wheels either. A couple of weeks later, we got it back. New diff, new steering wheel. All washed and ready to go. Because it took such a long time to fix, the possibility of getting a replacement car was briefly mentioned (not by me, I hasten to add), but the snag was there weren't any others in the country with the same specification. And it's not as if we were reduced to using Shanks's pony for months either because of the car they lent us. I don't really subscribe to the notion that one dud component - even a big one like this - makes the car a lemon, so we stuck with it. And I'm chuffed that I did. It's comfortable and quiet and because it's moderately pokey it's quite good fun to drive. You can't really hoon it round country lanes because the centre of gravity is higher than a regular car, but I guess that's what you'd expect. I can't be faffed with brim-to-brim fuel consumption figures entered assiduously on an Excel spreadsheet, so I rely on the app to give me a reasonable approximation of how may miles to the gallon it gets. Over the past four years it's returned about 34mpg. I'm okay with that. I didn't buy it for its economy. I love the seats. They are by far the most comfortable seats of any car we've had. No backache, no sore arse and no sore legs. In terms of build quality - particularly inside - I was a bit spoiled by the Audi A3 8V 2.0TFSI that this car replaced. The inside of that was just lovely. Having said that, nothing has fallen off this car, and there are no rattles. Not a one. It does everything I hoped it would before we bought it. Well, nearly. I've replaced the discs with drilled Brembos all round, along with their Xtra Line pads. This was partly because the original discs did suffer from the car sitting unused for yonks through no fault of its own, and partly because I'd always fancied trying drilled discs to see if they were really style over substance, 'cos they do look spiffy. Verdict is that they do bite a lot harder than the cheddar cheese ones that the car came with. A lot harder. And I got it remapped. Racingline OEM+ stage 1. It's gone from 187bhp to 230, but much more noticeably the torque has gone from 320Nm to 405Nm. And that does make a difference. It pulls really well. Last year I got the transmission control unit remapped as well, again Racingline OEM+. That makes a big difference too. Whereas before the gearbox did its damnedest to get into seventh in as short a time as possible, it doesn't do that any more. It picks its gears in a way which is much more like the way you'd do it yourself if you were driving a manual. And it's much smoother. Even when giving it some beans, you only really know it's doing its thing by watching the rev counter dip. Neither remap was cheap, for sure. Were they worth it? For me, absolutely. No regrets at all. Both remaps were done by the supplying dealer. They just happen to be Racingline dealers too, so it was sort of 'in-house'. There are one or two little things I've done to it which aren't as significant as those, but I think it's better for them. It's all massively subjective, of course. I thought the rear lights (the indicator and reversing light bit) looked a bit naff, so I put a grey Oracal tint on those bits of the lenses as well as swapping the wheezy and slow indicator bulbs for LEDs which snap on and off much more satisfactorily. Didn't do it for extra brightness, just so that they didn't look so last century. The wing mirror repeaters are now Kopacek sweepers, just because I think they look nicer, and the mirror caps are satin silver rather than the standard black ones. Nose badge is a Kopacek black and body colour job instead of the chrome and black original. The wing mounted Sport badges are no more because I thought they looked like things you win at a fairground by shooting tin ducks with a bent air rifle. The boot LED was utterly weedy so got replaced by a brighter pcb with 3 LEDs instead of one, though not the kind that Kopacek supply which you could play five-a-side under and costs a fortune. The door pockets were lined with a kit that someone else (Irfant, if I remember right) had used, and I put an anti-glare matte screen protector on the infotainment screen because it was horrible and shiny and constantly covered in greasy fingerprints. You just can't see them any more. I wish I could do the same with that awful piano black nonsense around the gear shifter and the aircon controls. Piano black is pants. It looks rubbish to begin with, never mind when it's covered in scratches two weeks later. That's it, really. Would I have another one? Not at the moment. This one is the mutt's nuts.

Is it MG UK trying to gag and not just a dealership? Well that is simple enough to get out to the Motoring Journals and the Press. Not as hard as it was with VW Group and any issues that Haymarket Media Group, Autocar / What car and Dennis Publishing Auto Express were deaf dumb and blind to.

MG has the lowest reliability of any brand in the recent What Car survey. VAG seem to lose its quality, and value, reputation around 2010 I feel. The stories about VAG car plants in Germany, several reported by Electric Viking, are a sad story of the mighty fallen. Good to see Mini, including GWM, up the top of the survey and Dacia and Renault, which i see as the value ie quality with fair price, acknowledged for their good performance over the last decade and a half. Miss those great Skoda VRSs and L&Ks, cheap but awesome.

At least when road testing you can feel the issue before 4 seconds have elapsed.

@nta16 Thanks very much Nigel for your very full and detailed information. I'm an old-school engineer and understand fully that it needs knowledge and understanding of the systems we work on to diagnose issues. In short, you have to first know how it is supposed to work before understanding why it it isn't working. And yes, there is far too much reliance on computer diagnosis by younger apprentices unless they refer the results to someone experienced in that particular engine or subsystem who just knows what is likely to have gone wrong with it! But these auto systems are, as you say, complex and components interrelated enough to completely mislead. For example my Son's Octavia VRS recently showed up with both a tyre pressure warning and an ABS fault. He was quite alarmed by these until I pointed out that there was also a wheel sensor fault code and both systems rely on the same sensor. We got the sensor changed and both faults were fixed immediately. So to your point about refrigerant I DID actually mean engine coolant as that is what heats up the radiator within the heating system. In this case we are talking of a lack of hot air flow into the driver's feet, not an air-conditioning problem so I'm fairly sure we don't need to go there. It does seem likely that one of the flaps is stuck hence my blast-the-hell out of it strategy with the fan on full power, and the temperature turned right up. I will need to drive it a bit further to see if we have achieved any improvement, but meantime thanks to you and everyone else who has thrown their hat in the ring :). Regards Andrew

Its to do with the X Power model and vibration and rattles from the steering at approx 65 to 70mph. Do a Google Search for "xpower vibration" and it will appear for you, its all over the MG forums and is a known fault to MG and they said said that a damper fitted to the steering will cure it, but apparently not as it happens. They are doubling down legal moves on the poor owner who only wants it resolved. Also has issues with lane assist, sometimes steering the car out of the lane into another lane. Two videos attached tell the problem along with all the legal moves being pulled.

Hi My name is Tommy and I reside in Dundee North East Scotland. Joined the forum due to purchasing a Skoda Yeti and I would welcome members advice. Once I have gained some knowledge I could also contribute to the forum. This is my first Skoda and already impressed with its build quality and performance. Hopefully be able to discuss some topics on the forums.

? What is the safety issue please with the MG EV,s.? Anything to do with the one that allegedly Kidnapped the gent from the Glasgow area? I can not believe with his Social Media presence that there has been no more on that story. This thread is about The truth of EV,s,'. Facts can not be anti, libel, defaming of the likes. If it happening it should be public and open to discussion. If just a Chinese whispers then maybe not.

That`s german logic :) Kodiaq has 3 thermostats and the gearbox one fails often. I do not know the exact circuit of coolant but it`s for sure the gearbox thermostat affects all the circuit. Including the cabin heating.

Thanks @mac11irl yep it's not small but smaller then the model Y and not as much as a compromise as the Alpine a290 or Renault 5, it's an interesting market segment for EVs i think, they are either massive or small with too many compromises. This tends to be the sweet sport, well for us anyway. Looking forward to trying a Skoda EV

I believe that fault code is usually associated with a key coding issue or immobilizer issue. I'd be tempted to clear it and see if it comes back. I'd also do a few cycles of the flap reset just to see if that helps. Hows the car engine temperature? Ok on a run or varying? Finally check the coolant header tank... Is it a 'mit silikat' one with the silicon bag in it ( I can't remember if the 2.0 tsi originally had one or not ). If it did and it's split that can cause the heater matrix to block.

Pretty certain there are no wet cambelts and only a couple of diesels have a very small wet oil pump belt. As far as I'm aware the latter hasn't been reported as having regular issues.

Double rainbow as well 👍

A bit more frivolous tiddling. I reckon that's it. For now. Got rid of the piano black B and C pillars with overlays from EZM. Good, sturdy stuff, and very accurately cut. Highly recommended. They're sold to fit an Ateca, but Ateca doors are identical to those on a Karoq. The finish is identical to the roof rails, so it all ties together. No more inadvertent scratches and no more fingerprints. The last remaining bit of chrome (with the exception of the wheel centre cap detail) has gone too - the pretend exhaust trim has had several coats of matte black FullDip, and I think it looks much better for it. FullDip is the same stuff as PlastiDip, and the only reason for not using PlastiDip was to see what the other stuff was like. And the Turanza AllSeason 6s have gone to the great recycling skip in the sky. It's a long story. These are Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 5s. If it gets really cold or snows I'll stay at home, light the woodburner and spend the time canoodling with Mrs Phutters instead.

Noting that the OPs car has done only 850 miles in 3 months, I wonder if this could be battery related? Low charge can throw up all sorts of random errors.

Usual main dealer faff - when I first raised the issue 12 months earlier they claimed nothing was wrong and it was 'a glitch' - then, armed with video evidence we'd made they had to have it in the workshop to check what I was saying, and of course, they couldn't fit it in for a couple of weeks - then we had to wait for the new Controller and when the day finally came they broke some connector off the new controller although they claimed it was already broken - either way another delay but amazingly they were able to source one for next day though it took a further day to reassemble the car. It was mentioned that the part was north of £1100..........Good luck matey. When I filled the 'satisfaction' survey in I complained about the amount of time it all took, dealer came back with some gonads about how it could have been done and dusted in a much shorter time frame if I'd have been prepared to finance the repair myself rather than wait for Skoda warranty to sanction it....! Cheeky gits.

For the Larson fans amongst us: 'Car!' Gaz

Rear ABS ring, probably offside?

I found exactly the same. Took delivery of a brand new Superbe last weekend. Turned out the AC was not working at all, so I took it back to the dealership to have it fixed under warranty. When I took it in, I also asked them to have look at the ventilated seats, as I did not notice any difference whether they are on or off, in low position or on full blast…. I genuinely thought they were not working (just like the AC), but maybe that is a feature rather than a bug…. Which would be disappointing Car is still there as the air conditioning turned out to require a lot of diagnostics, they are yet to look at the seat ventilation. Curious what they’ll say…. I’ll let you know

Injector and HPFP replacement appears to have made no obvious difference to anything, disappointingly. But having refreshed bits in those places can only be good in the long-term. Had a bit of a breakthrough an hour or so ago though, whilst cleaning up and studying an inlet manifold with intercooler that I'd acquired very cheaply from a much lower mileage car. The PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system relies on a subtle feature of this manifold, which appears to be a bit of design frailty, at least for pressure reduction at low throttle openings. When I first looked at the relevant "fifth port" on the spare manifold, it was very easy to conclude that it had a plastic blanking plug in it. Perhaps because the design had ben changed to apply a bit of vacuum to the crankcase in some other way. Didn't photograph it before my breakthrough, sadly, but after leaving it for a few hours and going back to it and having more of a (literal) poke around, I found a teeny-tiny hole that is fundamental to the design. The tiny hole you can see in the first pic, especially after seeing it in the closer shot, was utterly occluded and invisible at first.

I’ve just bought a used kodiaq and it has a phone mount in that space. It’s a sort of folding stalk with a mag-mount on the end and can be used folded or extended. I took some pics for you. The name on it seems to say Lisen. Sadly it doesn’t charge the phone, just holds it but it does that pretty well.

Hi folks, This may well be an issue which has already been discussed and solutions posted. This is just my personal experience. I had a problem with the driver's door window on my Yeti - it would close one shot but not open one shot and I had to hold the switch to get it to open all the way down. I looked online for a solution but all I could find was advice about resetting the limits of the winding mechanism and removing/cleaning or replacing the switch. I tried all the reset fixes I could find but none of them cured the problem. Then a distant bell started ringing in my head. Previous experience from over 20 years ago, when I had a Mk.4 Golf with a drivers window which would open one shot but not close all the way one shot, suggested a simple solution which I used to fix that car. I thought it worth a try on my Yeti. I fully opened the window and simply sprayed a fair quantity of silicone lubricant down both the front and rear window glass channels, then cycled the window fully up and down 6 or 7 times to distribute the lubricant. The window now works as it should and is one shot opening again. Definitely worth a try before you start pulling switches out and cleaning or replacing them. A 5 minute fix for the price of a shot of silicone lubricant. I hope this advice helps anyone with a similar issue.

Sweet👍 Welcome to Briskoda.

Possibly not the reason in your case but if the driver’s door isn’t properly shut the car won’t release the handbrake either manually or automatically until you’ve properly shut the door.

In case it helps anyone else, here's what I ended up with. One of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BNYGSDPX - and one of these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DJN62TX9 - results in this : The 50cm cable is almost the perfect length, with a very small loop (which helps to avoid any off-axis strain on the USB-C) hiding behind the mirror.

Finally defeated the ECU anti-tamper bracket yesterday afternoon, so that I could get in and check continuity/shorts for the oxygen sensor wiring. Since almost day one of our ownership, stubborn lambda sensor faults pop up putting on the emissions light. Both sensors replaced with good quality items, and no wiring issues discovered yesterday. Hoping it turns out to be injector related, as claimed by the garage the previous owner used. I'm not sure how they came to that conclusion, but they claimed a couple of injectors were leaking, apparently. I've (cheaply) acquired a set from a much lower mileage 1.2 TSI, and had them cleaned and tested by a localish outfit that I trust. Should be swapping those in next week I hope.

Don't have the car keys within 3m at the rear of the car. Leave the keys anywhere inside the car, or more than 3m away, or in a room inside the house, far away. It won't eat u then, nor try to decapitate u.

I've found it the rear wiper o ring where the motor meets the glass has been leaking in and running down the loom into the plugs cleaned up all ok now thanks for your offer of help

Hi, Battery reloaded over night. It's now 12.59V. No more error message upon cold start this morning. Great! Thank you guys. Delivery to new owner is planned for tomorrow morning. All good! 🙂

Well, that didn't go to plan. Just picked the car up from the dealer after its service - complete with a fresh 6-inch scrape on the passenger side corner of the rear bumper (right down to the black plastic). To say I'm angry and extremely upset is an understatement. While they didn't admit fault, the owner of the dealership, when confronted with it immediately said they would have it repaired at their expense without any argument or hesitation. It's going back in a couple of weeks to have that work done. This is why doing a walkaround of the car with a staff member before and after to agree on pre-existing issues, which thankfully i did, is so important.

Got the old one off, with predicted struggle. Secondary water pump shifted off it and tied up out of the way, then driveshaft off and out of the way. Wouldn't really be do-able without driveshaft shifting, and would be another step easier with front exhaust/cat section off but that's a mission of its own, so haven't done that. Pretty grubby, as expected.

The Superb went in for its second (my first) service this morning. Just got home from dropping it off. Not a major service, just oil & filter, pollen and brake fluid. Big service will be next year's one. Car has done 13,900 in two years (8,400 in the last year since I bought it).

Almost sold my Mk3 Estate. Deal is done... The buyer is a Skoda fan (he told me his current Skoda is the 7th one). He is an ex-Mk3 owner. it was a TDI150 with manual gear box. He has been regretting it for it's comfort. He was amazed about the cleanliness of my Mk3, he's really happy. Now we only have to make the paperwork and payment. My Mk3 should definitely leave by the end of next week. The funny thing is that he lives 15mn from home. Thus I may see may ex-Mk3 from time to time.

And 3! 3rd consecutive clean MOT. So happy! Now, I can write the ad to sell my Mk3. 😃 By the way, the inspector praised its condition. It started with a "Uh... You do get it dirty from time to time, do you 😯?!" I then explained that it had just been deeply cleaned to sell it sale. He replied with a "It's really spotless," accompanied by a respectful approving pout. He continued with "One can see that it's very well maintained because seeing the inside of the rims are in such condition, it's rare 😦..." I admitted to him that I have a set of summer and winter wheels and that every time I swap them, I thoroughly clean the ones I take off before storing them. I've driven less than 50 km since I put the summer wheels back on. He concluded with, "If I could do cars in this condition more often, I'd be happy 🙂. I even hesitated to use the windshield washer, it hurt my heart to get it dirty..." 🤣 Even myself, when I saw the windshield washer, I was... 🫣 😂 Well, not a big deal in the end, because I drove home under a light rain and I expect, I have to give it a quick wash when a buyer wants to see it anyway. Of course, I wasn't unhappy that my efforts were recognized. 😎. Small downside: I've had a random message on the maneuver brake system for a few weeks. It only appears on cold starts. I'm gonna make a VCDS scan to see what it is, but I've already booked an appointment by my local dealer to get this sorted for sale.

A complete day of detailing. Perfect weather: cloudy almost all day long and sunny in the early evening for pictures! Inside: Completely vacuumed (even the spare wheel well), leathers cleaned and moisturized, plastics brushed (espacially door sills and drivers pedals), rubber mats cleaned and brushed with an APC. Outside: Intensive handwash (doors and tailgate hinges, bonnet & tailgate logos, folds of door seals around windows, all cleaned with a paint brush), tar removed, windows cleaned with alcohol. It was my way to be grateful to my Mk3 after 7.5 years and 136500 km on the clock before selling it. As a 'feedback', it granted me all this subtil metallic glitters of its Moon white color 😍, that I had almost forgotten... 🙄

Next was a couple of electrical fixes. Partner had told me that high level brake light was inop, following me back from collecting the car. I'd noticed that the passenger side wing mirror was pointing down and inwards at an unhelpful angle, and the adjustment didn't work. Boot wiring problem was unsurprising. Previous repair evidence on a few wires, and one newly broken wire responsible for brake light non-function. Easy fix. Mirror fault was imagined to be similar, and sure enough, after minor battle to release the bellows from (right) A-pillar 28-way connector, a couple of broken wires greeted me. Don't seem to have pics, except this one, taken just after loom removal and before bench repairs, to remind me the shape/profile of the loom as it comes into the innards of the door. Repaired wires restored function of the mirror, and I did a couple of other wires that had cracked insulation but no sign of strand breakage yet, splicing lengths of super-flexible silicone insulated wire pre-emptively. Was glad to discover that the loom removal and refitting process wasn't too bad to do. Had cause to inspect the other (passenger) side at the weekend and there were two wires with cracked insulation but none broken. May get round to future-proofing them at some point when everything else is done!

Ordered up Mintex brake boxes (discs and pads), a genuine NOS rear shock, rear bumpstops, a CV boot, nuts and bolts. Started work on front left (going anticlockwise this time thinking I'd leave the front right with the CV action 'til last). Everything came apart easily for the disc and pad change, but as noted in another thread, first snag came with the fact that despite ebay seller checking with reg number, the discs in the front brake box were wrong. Silly me; thought all the VAG 288mm discs were probably the same, so didn't personally check everything well enough at time of order or delivery. Seller was decent about it and gave a full return/refund including pre-paid Evri label, having established that they didn't have a correct set for the car. I think having looked on the Mintex site that there isn't actually a front pads + discs set to suit this application; could be wrong. Luckily, the GSF near my workplace had sets of Brembo discs and pads that I was happy enough with, for not much more than the refund amount, in stock the next day. Went up together nicely once the 'bell' of the disc was the right depth.

Right front Disc in similar poor condition. CV grease around, lots of mud around Lots of engine oil around on undertray

Left rear. Bump stop entirely broken. Shock and spring look OK, top rubber mount of spring looks a bit odd, some rubber hanging off the edge. Is there a right and a wrong orientation for the top 'tail' of the spring to be? Disc and pads similar to first side. Didn't take any pics as they'd have been largely duplicates. Rear beam has a scab or two that might benefit from treating. Rear exhaust box looking very original and scabby, continuous pipe including mid silencer, so confirming originality. No obvious leaks currently.

On the other hand, judging by my partner's interest in the car, it might be her Fabia that I end up in after the dust has settled, so probably best to leave this one as-is for the time being!

The Racingline TCU remap is what they call a 'dynamic' remap. The details are here. Tyres are Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6s. They are 245/40 19s. It's the alternative size for this car. The ones it came with were 225/45 Bridgestone Duelers. The wider section ones it has now do give the rims quite a bit more protection. I'm not convinced I'm making any real sacrifice in ride comfort with them on. It isn't a cushy ride for sure, but I wasn't expecting it to be.

Do you have a link for it? There are a lot out there and they are not all the same.I would prefer to get one some one has actually tried. (you can't really trust reviews on Amazon)