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One thing to remember, even if Stop/Start is deactivated every trip, battery SOC will rarely ever be more than 75-80% charged due to the way the smart charging alternator operates.

The ECU will detect bulb failures, which involves monitoring the voltages on the CANBUS so dirt on the caravan electrical plug or socket, a slightly loose bulb or wire in the light fittings could be the cause. Road bumps or the pull on the caravan cable when cornering might also cause voltage fluctuation. The nearside front marker light on my car trailer sometimes goes out - a light tap and it comes back on. However this does not trigger the usual VW & Skoda bulb failure dash warning. Did your towbar fitter have any issues with obtaining or doing the CANBUS coding?

Ah the foreign country that is that-there-Lundun with it's strange ways. I just meant with the charger maintainers unless you let one of the cars get into such a bad way as with your Fox with charging and battery the process will be top-ups and nothing drastic requiring buzz words or "features" just simple rechanging and perhaps maintaining. The Fox would be a sensible size small car to me and with 50+ years of generally disappointment with computer electronics the less of them the better for me. I like wind up windows! Warrior's last post is why I always fully recharge the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia (which really seems to annoy some poster/viewers here) also a 2015 car has less electric features and interfering "assists" than on a 2020 version so less potential drains. As always each to their own. You will learn how much each of the cars need recharging, and perhaps preventative charging, by experience (easier with the Ring charger maintainers s as they show voltage figures to learn by rather than just a few coloured lights of the Aldi/Lidl or CTek. Charging the batteries and keeping them in good order isn't difficult or complex, it's simple or I'd not be able to do it, don't get too tied down by too much details, as I put before things aren't always as black and white as they're made out to be and there's often wriggle room - though it might be forbade in that-there-Lundun tho'. Good luck.

I happens automatically. I just set the car on "charge immediately", plug the car in and then just reach in and press "stop charging", lock the car and walk away. On the Octopus app it asks what time you want it tomorrow and what charge level and then they set a schedule (which often changes during the night) I reality, they might charge at 7 in the evening for half an hour and again at 9.30, you can never tell what they're actually going to do, but the car is always charged when I want it. When you get your monthly electricity bill, you'll see all the slots where it has been charged outside the 11.30 - 05.30 time slots are charged at 7p/kWh. The only downside for me is that the in-house display for the smart meter doesn't actually know that it's being charged at 7p so the electricity costs shown look horrendous. It's never as bad when you get the actual bill. 🙂

A recent experience may help serve as a guide. Car - bought new in October 2015 (MY16) Octavia Combi 1.4 TSI, manual 6-speed. 31K miles. Battery, Moll EFB fitted new in 2016 as a warranty replacement - so battery 9 years old. Automatic stop/start is always used. I occasionally charge the battery due to frequent short trips (as evidenced by very low miles) The last charge was on June 1st. Battery was fully charged before trip (Ring RSC608) vehicle was static for 35 days, battery charge state was tested on return from trip and was 53% SAE (12.33VDC) / 66% DIN (12.31 VDC) Test report was Good Battery but requires charging.

Just heard back from Skoda, my VRS is going into build next week, on track for mid September delivery.

FYI, there are reasons people choose different oils. Let's take 5W-30. Simply put, the 5W part is the viscosity of the oil when cold, and the 30 part is the viscosity of it when hot. 0W is thinner when cold than 5W - modern Euro engines don't tend to do well with heavy, thick oils at a cold start. However, whether it's 0W or 5W in the UK won't really make much difference. The 30 part, the weight when hot, is more important. For example, my vRS runs on 20 weight, whereas most people like 30 or 40 weight. The thicker the oil is at temperature, the more protection it provides. In theory. The thinner oils are, really, used to help with emissions - thinner oils are more economical. So, who cares about emissions, let's just put a heavy weight in to protect the engine. The issue with this, however, is that it's not so simple. VW aren't stupid, and the engines have been adapted to run on this thinner oil - stuff like the variable oil pump has been optimised to run on the 20 weight at operating temp, and tolerances are also optimised. Sure, 30 weight offers better protection in the crankcase, but at what cost to the tighter tolerance bearings, etc? In reality, a thinner oil allows for a higher flow, which makes maintaining pressure easier. Less thick oil or more thin oil - same thing, really. My car is/was tuned and does get driven hard. I debated long and hard (just ask @Ootohere) about going to 0W-30, but decided in the end to just stick with what Skoda recommend. I even reached out to several (respected) VAG tuning places and they all said to stick with the recommendation from the manufacturer. The difference in protection might mean my engine has issues at 150,000 miles versus 165,000 miles - but I won't have it then. Sure, the difference in oil might make a difference (for better or for worse) but I don't believe going from 0W-20 to 0W-30 is going to make any huge difference. People use thicker oils as 'thinner oils are rubbish and offer no protection - it's all emissions crap'. Not all of this is untrue, but without being on the design team at VW and knowing exactly what changes were made to run on 0W-20, 0W-30, or whatever, I would just stick with the sticker. VW seem to have learned from this, as the earlier EA888.3 ran on 5W-30 and now the EA888.4 Evo runs on 0W-30, however I'm not losing any more sleep over it. [disclaimer for all the... people... on here - as mentioned above, many things are a generalisation. Talking about viscosity grades and centistokes probably isn't going to help OP.] Oh. Get VW spec too. There is a difference between an oil being suitable for the specification and being approved for the specification.

Just stick with the sticker. I wouldn't bother putting the plate into any sites. Stick with what Skoda recommended, unless the car is heavily tuned.

If any car is burning that much oil, it needs attention.

Maybe worth noting that with modern AC systems you have to fully empty and refill them AFAIK. Essential to have them under vac for a period to remove all the potential water. AFAIK this has been true since there was a mandated change to the refrigerant some years back.

Joined back in 2018 when I had an Octy 1.4TSI in diahorrea brown. Brilliant car, but like an idiot, swapped for a Honda Jazz🤮. Learned my lesson in 2023 and got a Kamiq1.0ltr DSG. Still got it, not a bad car but need a bit more poke for towing our little caravan………..so I have found a lovely Octy 2017 facelift SEL 1.5ltr in the same diahorrea brown as my first! I pick it up from Marshall Skoda in Barnstaple on the 20th and this old man feels like a child waiting for Christmas! Hopefully this time I’ll participate in the forum a bit more. So hello everybody🤗

I have my Enyaq 85 and don't have any home charging. My cost per mile is still cheaper than previous petrol and diesel cars thanks to a Tesla subscription (£90/yr) and Ionity (£10.50 per month). This brings charging on Ionity down to 43p per kWh, and Tesla 24-37p depending on time of day and charger. I will occasionally stretch to a 55p per kWh charger if there is nothing else nearby that is handy and cheaper. My cost per mile for the energy is usually <12p per mile. If you charge at any random public charger, then be prepared for costs up to 89p per kWh... Sure, you can do ICE motoring for less, but not in equivalent cars to my Enyaq... my purchase involved a quite extensive spreadsheet looking at the overall cost of ownership (car cost, servicing, VED, petrol vs electrons etc.), and it still worked out substantially cheaper than my previous car.

Hi all. I bought my Superb III 2 litre estate back in Dec 2023, when my Modeo 1.5 Ecoboom estate died without warning. I never thought I'd own a Skoda but I don't think I'd buy anything else now. It's superb (pun intended). I'm hoping to learn a lot from this forum and hopefully add a bit too.

Hello all, I will soon be collecting my first Skoda - a green MK2 superb estate TDI. Will be very different to the Vauxhall Ampera it replaces but I think it will do nicely :)

The solution I've just used - Find your workshop manual here - https://easymanuals.com Engine code, oil type, sorted. I already had my manual saved on a thumb drive from last year, however I don't think it was too expensive. £20 maybe? It's the proper 25,000 whatever page workshop manual, but take your time and you'll find it near the start.

Skoda Service Manual to the rescue. I completely forgot I had a copy that I used when refitting the dashboard last year. DKTB engine code - VW 508 00. Result.

That’s frustrating but ok, another avenue shot down. If it’s definitely CJXA then this was the pre-GPF original 280. The only other way to tell irrespective of anything is look under the car. The downpipe comes off the turbo, immediately has the catalytic converter and then does one of 2 things: Additional bulge for the GPF (also known as OPF) (DNUA engine code) Just a wire mesh (CJXA) I sense this is probably overkill but hopefully there’s clarity there. Picture attached - don’t worry that they refer to different engine codes, the first three letters are the same for the same physical build, the 4th is just the software determining the final power output.

He is saying that for his DNFE, it wants 0W-30! For your CJXA, not sure. As mentioned, I think we have found the answer - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/534258-engine-oil/#comment-5960830 For variable servicing, your car takes VW 504 00. Just as was said - 🙂

In this case, I don't think it actually matters. Whether it's a 2017 or a 2018, it's not a GPF car.

Do you have a link to the manual that shows what oil is suitable for what engine? I've looked at 2018 and 2019 manuals and can't find it. I agree - hence why I'd like to find out, for definite. If I'm honest, at this point, it's more about me than it is the car. I just find it incredible that, ultimately, I am forced to email/call up a random dealer service department and ask them. I know that all 245s (Mk3) want 0W-20, however in reality this is based on stuff I've read online, and the word of strangers. Yes, I know the info here is reputable and yes, I know I am 99% sure it wants 0W-20, but a part of me just wants to see it written somewhere in the engine bay. Do I need to find someone with access to Erwin (or pay myself) in order to see service records and hope I can see the oil used? It cannot be this difficult.

The reason he is asking is that there are sometimes overlaps. For example, my car has a 2020 build date, yet parts sites don't understand that a 2020 can be a Mk3.5 - they all assume it's a Mk4, which mine isn't. This is not to mention that when I say I have a 2020 vRS, people assume it is a Mk4. If it were a 17 plate then it could very possibly be a 2016 car (and vice versa, a 67 plate could be a 2018 car). Okay, in this case it's not as important, however the GPF came in a year later in 2019, and thus a 68 plate may or may not have one, and a 2019 plate may or may not have one. You get my drift.

Thanks!

Welcome to you both 👍

Welcome to Briskoda @MrSVM1 👍

Offiziell, yes

To answer myself, the setting is the Android Auto settings (accessed via the cog icon in AA) rather than the car audio config

Picked up my car this evening. It's had a software update which apparently was a recall for other Skoda models but not for the Superb until last Friday. Dealer agent read me the 'fixes' that the update provided and it seemed to match issues id been having perfectly (except satnav as I use Waze on CarPlay). Let's wait and see:-)

They are triple square splines. I got a cheap set from Amazon and so far they have lasted very well. There about £14 on amazon. Alasdair

Think of the battery and alternator as working partners if either is low or poorly the other has to do more work so will to some extent wear more so shortened life. So an old worn battery will have the alternator working more perhaps and a new battery in a car with an old worn alternator will have the battery doing more. Halfords never knowingly under-priced. 😄 The previous one looked like my Ring charger (but more expensive) so does that one that'll be fine for your BMW, no need to spend more money on a CTek, unless you want to. How long it takes to fully charger the battery depends on many things but as I've put you can leave that Halfords (Ring?) charger maintainer as long as you like. - "Designed for long-term charging". 5 or 6 hours may or may not be sufficient to sufficiently recharge the battery or to fully (as much as possible) recharge, it depends how low the battery is at the start and how much drain there is in and on the car. 4-amps is lowish so takes longer to charge the battery but low amps is good for recharging, especially a battery that has discharged slowly. When you connect up the chargers positive and negative clamps/leads and then plug int the electric mains supply the charger maintainer will light up and then give a voltage, from that you decide if the battery needs charging or if you want to. You could connect up the charger maintainer every time you park up if you want to but there's no need to overdo things, or get paranoid about the battery. Whilst charging the battery is very easy, clean-hands 'work' it's still farting about on a car which you want to keep to a reasonable minimum as just about most other things are better and more rewarding in life. I do enough with the battery on my wife's Fabia to give it a reasonable long life as they're expensive and I expect decades rather than years out of stuff I buy and much, much more importantly that it doesn't give my wife any hassle on the car as that means a lot more hassle for me farting about even more with a car I don't like and I loathe working on our cars. This is why I replaced the battery as I learnt what a PITA these modern VWs are, not that I've ever liked VWs, or German cars generally really, except perhaps a Golf MK1 GTi and I did consider a BMW Z4 and Alpina Z4 for a very short time (s/h). VW rant over. If you want more battery or VW stop/start info just ask as I could probably overload you with the very little I've got so only give you what you want. The information is generally fairly easy to find I'm only acting as a librarian and from decades of experience of helping out neighbours with their car batteries from extreme or nil car use.

My DIY version of seat covers! I had four travel blankets at a loose end so I decided to make an alternative use for them. I had the SKODA name and logo embroidered on them coupled with, 19mm plastic snapfit eyelets to accomadate the headrests.

From the 2020/07 'Owner's manual' - see last line, "for more than three weeks". Engine bay earth point. If you have an appropriate charger maintainer and the facilities you can leave it connected up so that it rechargers the battery and then maintains it at that level ready for the next use of the car. The battery and car's charging system are designed for cyclical use so personally I'd never leave the maintainer on for months on end as cars need use for keep other systems, components and parts working well. If I couldn't use the car for whatever reason after a month with the maintainer on I would disconnect it for a couple of weeks before putting it back on. If the car isn't used for many months I'd consider selling it. HTH.

It can be blowing cold air then can hear some flaps closing and goes off even when it's set to 20°c.

Today on the news i heard it said that the list is currently 17 EV,s that qualify and more models will be added in the near future. What a half arsed scheme. The scheme must have just been hashed up for a quick announcement when they needed to get a story out.

No difference between Estate and Saloon when it comes to the front bumper. On the other hand, there is big difference with the rear bumper.

Hope its just a simple bleed and it cures the problem. Alasdair

If you have problems selecting. Clean the selector arm that’s attached to the gear lever cables. Especially where it enters a shaft on the gearbox remove clean up shaft and pin grease and replace. Made a difference to 2 different cars I have owned to smooth out selection issues.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

not possible. it is the same for others. i live in Australia, which means i need to get the Rest Of the World (RoW) map updates, all 22-24Gb of it, of every other country in world that isn't covered by the EU maps!!

tbh it’s less hassle to just download and install the full package. Once downloaded and on a usb stick, plug it in the car and drive around a few days and by that time it’s done its thing in the background and maps are updated.

Is this the first time the car has towed this caravan? Has the car towed other trailers without problems? Trying to determine whether its the car or the trailer thats the source of the problem.

MOT'd until 19 February 2026, thousands have been spent on this car. It's like night and day to a standard car and comes with heaps of paperwork. Spec as follows: - Audi S3 (8P CDL) engine - stronger than the original engine to allow for more power. - full K04 running gear / turbo etc - full service history - mapped by Autotune (370bhp) - VIS Motorsport HPFP internals - VIS Motorsport balance delete shaft - Ramair intake - NGK BKR7EIX spark plugs - Audi R8 coilpacks - 3" decat into non-res Milltek - BC adjustable coilovers - Passat alloy bottom arms - uprated clutch (Audi TT I think) - Audi S3 345mm front brakes - GTI Clubsport S discs - Audi S3 310mm rear brakes Aesthetic upgrades include: - Mk3 Octavia vRS steering wheel - Mk2 Octavia vRS Limited Edition seats (love these seats!) - Mk2 vRS facelift climate control panel - Mk2 vRS facelift Columbus sat nav - 18" wheels in gun metal grey - PolarFIS module - Superskoda upper and lower honeycomb grilles - Mk2 facelift wing mirrors - Mk2 facelift taillights - Superskoda rear spoiler - LED indicators front/rear bulbs - LED front fog bulbs - Electric windows front and rear - Xenon lights as standard with washers - Wind deflectors Mileage is just shy of 164k on the body with approx 120k on the engine. - new spark plugs every 10/15k - fresh oil and filter every 5k - Recently serviced: oil and filter, spark plugs, CAM follower kit, four tyres - MOT'd until 19 February 2026 Serious enquiries only please. This is a seriously good going car. First to drive will buy. Location: Bangor, Co. Down, Northern Ireland £5750 ono (Note: I've owned several Mk2 Skoda Octavia vRS estates over the past 10 years or so but I've decided to move on to something different so I'm selling all three Skodas that I currently own. I'm also selling a higher mileage red Mk2 Octavia estate (sorned at 220k two years ago) that also had several upgrades including: Quaife limited slip diff (£950 new), Competition Clutch and flywheel (£1000 new), antilift kit, short shifter, revo induction kit, upgraded engine mounts, upgraded springs, anti roll bar, probably more I've forgotten. I'll also have a virtually standard blue Mk2 Octavia vRS estate for sale shortly. All are 2006 petrol cars.)

Understeer = probably controllable by most decent drivers Oversteer = probably a crash

Long shot but maybe disconnect battery for a few hours and reconnect. Maybe the ecu has had a blip and not coping/recognising new sensor. It should hopefully reset everything and might work. Had similar problems with sensors on my old octavia. As a last resort I disconnected battery, left it overnight and reconnected and it seemed to cure itsef. Alasdair

Replaced front discs and pads which has cured the brake judder I was suffering ☺️

You can always lean out of the window and make "brum-brum-brum" noises ;-)

Do you want me to lend you a duster?

My car has been in garage since Wednesday. They had to go to Skoda technical who think they have solved it. It is having a software update and should be ready Monday. Like you I have had great experiences with my previous 2 Superb’s, but this one has not been so good.

The only way nowadays that an AC car system is serviced is to fully recover the fridge gas charge and weigh it, apply a vacuum to the system to remove any accumulated moisture, and recharge the system with the correct weight of fridge gas. Out of interest they might tell you what the recovered weight was as compared with the newly charged weight - though you might not be interested in knowing that, my older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra ended up with a "crap" AC system during the past hot weather, I told her to get it serviced and that sorted it out, perhaps she will buy a bio bomb to sanitise the evaporator now as well. So, that car had lost too much of its fridge gas over a period of 6 years, if your one is still okay, maybe play the system and get its AC serviced as an individual task - if that is allowed within your service plan, but don't do this until next early summer as that should give you a longer period before you will need to pay to get it recharged/serviced the next time.

Yes mate, 2.0 tdi on a 63 plate 140bhp