Leaderboard

Skoda can’t do it - we can 😅

Part number changed in sept 2024 to 5Q0121407AA and genuine can now be obtained for just over £20 AKS tuningGenuine VAG Coolant Expansion Tank - No Silicone Packet!...The coolant expansion tank in your vehicle allows additional fluid a place to go after expansion

For sale. 20 sets of Mk4.5 aero covers. Price - negotiable. Contact - anyone in this thread 😄

Thanks for that, I'll be talking like the rest of you at this rate. Re that voltage, it seemed to go higher and higher as the charger continued, got me thinking i read it wrong now. I'll try again and check it, probably next week now

I've just noticed when I was about to close, some notications, when I looked it said congratulations you've reached the status of apprentice. Wow, that takes me back, so I'm allowed to make a few mistake now then, ha.

No, I can't see any battery spec because of this connection cluster sat on top of the battery. I was originally in another post, if that's what you call it, and I know you were all very helpful there. I saw the stop/start issue here and read through it all. That's what made me ask about the power too high message, which again has been answered for me. I see what you mean about popping the bonnet, but leaving the controls to settle. What a world we live in now, I would never have thought of that. I do recall when I connected the meter across the battery in the morning, the voltage started climbing back up. I'm guessing these readings were starting to climb after a minute or so, but I didn't take much notice then!

Street art in Rotterdam from earlier this year @slim_pickings_photography all shot on iphone

There's plenty Skoda can't, or won't, do I suspect that's the case. Not just Skoda, it seems endemic.

I got it !!!

Take it up to the dealer then, it is clearly stated in the brochure you added here.

Goodbye red and hello blue. Been a while since I posted on the forum. It’s goodbye to my red 1.5 tsi sportline and hello racing blue 2.0 tsi sportline. In short, Skoda emailed me last week (12/08/25) offering new car for less than I’m paying now. I replied no as I wanted a 2.0 tsi. Then I received a call offering me a brand new 2.0 TSI in race blue; sportline edition. £45 less a month than I’m paying now. Clearly I said yes and I picked the new car up yesterday(20/08/25). I will miss the red car and it’s excellent fuel economy too but after a 2000 mile European road trip and some very steep hills I fancied the 2.0 tsi and 4x 4 version. It’s more refined, less stress. The fuel economy will be down on the 1.5 and that the tax will be much higher but my man-maths says that the money I’ve saved off the list price makes this easier to accept(better deals on new cars than used ) As standard the sportline edition comes with DCC, progressive steering(??), heated rear seats, some weird parking camera views and heated screens. Pretty good. Insurance is an extra £5.57 a month, not too bad. In the 23k travelled had to replace a punctured tyre and oil sump broke. Made the car sound like a tractor briefly before dying. Fixed under warranty. Am quite pleased with new purchase and even like the fake engine noise.

Used the FDM download manager and it successfully downloaded the whole zip file at the first attempt. The log file shows it suffered many interruptions which would have stopped the download before with Google Chrome but the download manager coped with these and produced the whole file.

Thanks for that. It does help. The risk of recurrences was one of the factors in deciding to leave it alone for now 👍

Simple when you know how!! With a bit of effort the ring to which the tether is attached will pull over the fuel cap. The easy option is to buy a replacement ring and tether and just push the new ring back over the cap and attach the other end of the tether over the small stud by the hinge. When I did this I found the replacement ring was just slightly larger than the original - only 1mm or so but enough that it annoyed me. I removed it from the cap and pushed out the two small black plastic pins from the old ring, the same with two silver pins from the new ring (just visible alongside the tether in the photo) and put the new tether in the old ring, replaced the pins and put everything back together. Good as new and once you know what to do it's a couple of minutes work. Couple of minor points - the pins are obviously very small so would be easy to lose as you push them out. I punched them out using a suitably sized rivet into a hole bored into a block of wood so they couldn't get lost. The other thing is to work out which way up the end of the tether goes into the ring - one way everything falls nicely into place when you put it in the car, the other way it's awkward and twisted.

Yeah, but it meant that you got all the sh1tty jobs too 😄

Just a photo of the Napa 2024 season car at my work / shot on iphone

Thanks.....I think if it doesn't resolve shortly I'll take it back to the engine tuning guy with those suggestions. Thanka again!

Unfortunately, my car is subject to short trips, so I suppose I will get these errors. Those voltage readings were taken at random times from when I put the ctek charger on until is was fully charged. The 13.66 volts was when charger had completed its charge but was still powered on. The 12.2 volts was taken in the morning just to see what it said. All the readings were taken across the battery terminals. That's why I thought the 12.2 reading was a little low. My name is Mike by the way.

Thanks EYR - I'll drop you a line once the car's out of warranty.

This can be a sign that one of the ABS wheel sensors is on its way out.

Thank you very much! I'll try this. For Santa... I love my grandson despite everything 😅

Yes sorry I totalled missed your name, I remember now you got the (to me over-priced and perhaps over-valued) CTek. I'm not sure where you took the voltage readings but 16.65 sounds a typo. 12.2v depends when and how you took the reading but if it was with a digital multimeter a good number of hours after the battery had been charged and the car's system were awake then you could add say 0.2v or 0.3v to allow for that taking the battery to say 12.4v or 12.5v which is Ok(ish) but not great IF you recharged the battery to full (100% of what it can do). It really depends on hold well and long the battery holds that charge and how well it can be used (the drop test mentioned earlier in the thread). Batteries do age but also it depends on their use, abuse and possible neglect as to how well you might be able to recover them, if they've been flogged too much and/or too then their recovery will be less, recharge(s) left too late (or too little). Check the battery again, after the car hasn't been used for a good few hours or if used not long ago turn the headlights on for 60 seconds to take off the surface charge to give a truer voltage. When comparing readings consistence of equipment, method and conditions is important.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will try to check myself but I do not have many tools. I will take it to the mechanic soon. Hope for the best. Fingers crossed.

Hi I'm glad I could join this forum. I have a Fabia 3 with minimal equipment and I'm upgrading it myself. I've already managed to install the original rear parking sensors. Now I want to replace my Blues radio with navigation. I hope I'll find some useful information here. Best regards. :)

Hello @Fab3 and welcome to Briskoda. All the best in your upgrades and hopefully you'll find all the info and assistance you need

If its anything like my old MY21 car, its not an SOS alarm as such, its just the SOS system reporting that it's not available! Mine was fine for the first year and would then periodically go into the 'failed' mode and put on the red light and warning message in the dash. My conclusion was that it was a combination of the battery in the SOS unit not being fully charged and being in an area of reduced mobile signal. I never quite got around to taking it back to a dealer, every time I was about to, it would sort itself out!

https://www.roberteardley.co.uk/brochures/07-01-2020/superb.pdf Effective from December 2019 on the brochure. Definitely facelift. S K O D A and Matrix LED.

Thanks for the replies. I've just spoken to the warranty person at the local Skoda dealership and sent him the pics. Will update when I hear back.

Contacted the dealership who asked me to go to my nearest Skoda approved bodyshop. Turned out there was one only 10 minutes drive so I popped down with it. They confirmed it was a defect and not damage, but thought it would be worth trying to machine polish out. They did it whilst I waited and it worked fine, no sign of the imperfection any more so all sorted unless it comes back!

@Plobber I have just had the call to get mine updated. They want the car for 2 days! It must be a very large file, unless they have to check every feature works as it should after the update?

As far as I know, the virtual pedal is an additional option. The SEL in the UK comes with electric tailgate but not virtual pedal. Perhaps your Business spec doesn’t have the electric tailgate as standard? The sheet in you photo appears to be a brochure type page which shows various options. Does your car have a panoramic sunroof?

On-board computer>scroll to Trip settings>hold down the right scroll

nta16 I finally got round to changing the 7.5 fuse to the position you suggested. I now have a functioning infomation centre again. I am very grateful for your help and appreciate your time and effort, a very big thank you. Next time I will do what I usually do and take a picture first.

Just achieved my sub hour 10km target, 10.1km in 58m 28sec. Did not set out to do it, but went out slowly trying to keep my heartrate down (another story), felt good, the weather was really nice, and I thought why not? Probably not as much preparation as I would have liked, so I did find the last 2km quite hard to push through. I won't aim for greater distances, but I will try to make it an occasional target with the hope of making the effort easier and/or a little faster.

https://mega.nz/#P!AgEWbXJNihnTmKp84pcWnJQthHZ3yEKf85EqPA60h_dpSNKWORB68QxWbpQChbOeJRlA4mEKgHeGhr8ZvMDf8xEXKwsy6DGbRCS1zX3AApz-JVmyFyYKV4kx7jgrdJuwuOkrJ4pw-NM PW write PM

At a guess it’s a CAYC engine? In which case it absolutely has an egr system , the cooler is buried down the back of the engine. Easiest way to get to look at it is from underneath with the tray off. Lumpy idle during a regen is it trying to complete the cycle which should be done “Between 2000-2500 rpm at a speed above 60kph” usually taking about 15-20mins at that speed and rpm consistently. I find 4th gear at 90kph is a nice middle ground unless I can get to a motorway.

ACC is certainly something we can help with 😎

Nope I wouldn’t say so. They sit inside the outer edge of the alloy.

That isn't normal. Would b very surprised if it left factory like that as that will not pass QA checks.

so after some careful reading i went and looked in my door pillar thing to realise some wires were snapped put back together works fine now!!!! always check ur wires in the door! now left is to get this random unlock and locking to stop

I changed mine about two years ago I think. I didn’t buy an OE one, but a dirt cheap one from eBay. I decided to keep the G13 coolant in place and added a VW silikat cartridge, which is far more substantial than the teabag used in the OE tank. Also, the cap is dead easy to open and close and it hasn’t had any ill effects on the performance.

Just get an L&K 😄 All the toys you want. The Leather in the L&K is perforated so not sweaty and they are heated and cooled. Has 18" wheels as standard and you also get DCC so you can set the ride to comfort if you want to.

I went down this rabbit hole a while ago, and ended up buying 5 or 6 different ones off of Amazon and AliExpress and testing each one for a couple of weeks. Loads of them are super janky, with connection issues nearly every use. Some advertise features that they don't actually support. I used a Carlinkit 5.0 for quite a while, and while it was mostly fine I found that responsiveness was slow and sometimes it didn't connect/start up properly. If you order a Carlinkit, order from a well reviewed store on AliExpress as it's much cheaper than off Amazon or their website. I tested: Carlinkit 5.0 2air Carlinkit 5.0 SE Pro Carlinkit Mini Ultra The 5.0 was fine? It worked, but had connection issues occasionally. The Mini SE was essentially exactly the same performance. I'd avoid the Mini Ultra. It regularly disconnected, and was just unreliable overall. They do all have GPS passthrough though, which is a plus. Again, if you want to buy a Carlinkit buy from AliExpress as they're considerably cheaper (eg Carlinkit 5.0 2air on Amazon is £42, on AliExpress is £22). Just make sure you check the reviews of the seller before buying. I settled on this one from a company called Sunweyer - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CTCX67F7 - it isn't amazingly well reviewed on Amazon but it's consistently connected every time I've gotten into the car and seems responsive overall. A small positive is that it's a bit smaller, so you don't have a cable hanging either. It's also the best one I've used overall. I also tried: MSXTTLY MMB Wireless Adapter ByteWave Wireless CarPlay Personally I'd avoid these three, they don't have GPS passthrough which is a key feature I wanted. This means it uses the cars GPS instead of the phone, which saves on battery over longer journeys and means it's usually aligned with the direction of travel from the beginning.

1. format SD (best max 32GB) under FAT32 2. unpack to root (metainfo2.txt and all the folders must be placed directly on SD, not in any folder) 3. insert SD card into the slot 4. enter Service Menu (long press MENU button)

A few from this afternoon at Coningsby...... Not sure of the significance of the ice creams on the side of the Lancaster (I'd never noticed them before despite many previous visits!) 🤔

Not a good day at the office today, carpet fitters were a no show which cheesed me off so grabbed the camera and popped over to the coast. Ended up on the causeway to Holy Island.

If you have a car made in 2024 or 2025 it won't be a good idea to leave the car parked up, locked up with alarm on for 4 weeks same for a 2022 made car but possibly less so. It also depends on how high or low instate of charge the battery is when you first parked it up as it will only get lower so a lower start point means a lower end point. The battery likes about 20C and starts to discharge itself more at higher temperatures. Plenty on threads on this site alone about flat batteries from cars being parked up and all the unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues from the battery being low but the headlights still seem bright enough and the engine starts. The computer systems and programs don't like the battery in too lower state for them (plenty of threads on the site exampling this). Best on to (get someone to) connect the battery to an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for charger maintainer and to fully charge the battery and the maintainer will then keep it topped up. A good quality 4amp (that's all you need) example is available from Lidl for £15. Alternatively you (or someone else) could disconnect the battery following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual', check what might (not all things they list are always effected) need resetting after reconnection, normally if you fully close all windows and sunroof, you only need to reset time-of-day clock, petrol/mileage, seats. Running the car will charge the battery but of course you need to have the electric consumption lower to get more charge back, air-con, heated anything, lights all off, don't turn steering wheel, start/stop off and then unless you leave the engine running long enough to get the oil (not coolant) temperature to 90C+ it won't be best for engine oil or engine. You may get away with leaving the battery 4 weeks, or a lot more perhaps (if not a 2024/5 car) but if the battery gets too low, even if the engine starts, the battery may not fully recover from this if it gets too low and shorten its reliable useful life. Not to turn up the misery but if the 4 weeks extends the need for recharging increases. As always each to their own. HTH.

eventually the lock poped open, so I disconnected the wiring to the lock and now it is in "manual" mode. Electric windows still work.

Thanks for this how-to. it works for the back doors too as I tested today. I havent got so far as un deadlocking it, but I have visual pointers on problems in the door, rather than hunches, so I can now work towards fixing them! Cheers!

i used a stanley knife to cut through the plastic.. thats how soft it is, dont even need a drill