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I used my wife's tools... 😂

Just a photo of the Napa 2024 season car at my work / shot on iphone

I had exactly what you describe. Had two PCN's one week then another the following week, I was also nowhere near the violations which were all recorded in and around the East London area - I had been working there a month or so beforehand so I suspect someone spotted my car and noted the registration then put it on a another car of a similar colour, except my car was light blue and the offending car was dark blue (the V5 just says 'blue' so that's good enough for it to be the right car in the eyes of the police & PCN company). Notified the police who really weren't that interested at all, and suggested I either re-register my car or just put up with it. The problem with re-registering it is insurance don't like that sort of thing and when you come to sell it it appears to have a very dodgy history if anyone checks. On the other hand if you keep the current registration you may keep getting PCN's or worse, such as the registration being linked to a more serious motoring offense or armed robbery etc. Once the registration is recorded as being cloned you could also keep getting pulled over by the traffic police as it looks like an illegal vehicle. Really surprised the police weren't interested as I pointed out the offending car is probably stolen and being driven without road fund license, insurance, MOT, no driving license and so on. In the end I kept the registration the same and the PCN's stopped coming and have heard nothing more since then. It wasn't easy convincing the PCN company it really wasn't me, as all the evidence (car registration number) suggested it was me, had to email them a copy of the V5 and several pictures of my car clearly showing it was a different shade of blue, the alloy wheels were different as were the headlights, before they accepted it was a cloned plate. Good luck sorting it out, I hope you find it easier and quicker than I did.

I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago. In stock at my local dealer, and just under 20 quid: SKODA Parts DirectGenuine SKODA Parts Delivered To Your DoorGenuine SKODA Parts at discounted prices Hope that helps, Nick

Street art in Rotterdam from earlier this year @slim_pickings_photography all shot on iphone

interested, interested, just have been adopted to that during 10 years with this body🙂 7y 2016. Mk3 220ps FWD and third with 2023. Mk3.FL 280ps AWD and upgrade seem costly with no guarantee of success also, if touch this position, then logical addition will be aluminum arms, which for non lowered? have you add lot cheaper things, like additional rubber sealants? before vs after ( profile D ) profile Z

Hi all, I have just replaced the recirculation flap motor on my 2015 Fabia MK3. I looked all over the web to find any useful instructions and only found some for the Ibiza here which are actually pretty good, but thought I'd add a few additional comments from my own experience. The symptoms were a loud clicking from behind the passenger side dash when the recirculation button was turned on In short it can be done by removing just the glove box although it's a bit fiddly. The glovebox is retained by 6 screws. Three on the top edge (visible when you open it. One inside to the left hand side just above the bottle storage and two underneath (one left and the other right hand side). Be careful when you remove the glove box as there are three wiring connectors (glove box light, glovebox light switch and airbag passenger switch). I found the easiest option is to remove the airbag connector only, and pop out the whole light assembly from the glove box and similarly with the light switch - remove the plastic pin that attaches the damper and light switch to the door and then twist off the assembly the is like a bayonet fitting to the side of the glove box. To warn you, the light switch assembly is quite fragile (the retaining cover of mine pinged off and several small bits fell out). Once you have the glovebox off, you will find the recirculation flap motor to the left hand side of the blower assembly. It is housed in a plastic cradle retained by two silver T10 torx bolts. One on the underside of the cradle and a second one on the front vertical edge facing you . The vertical edge one is just behind the retaining bar to which the glovebox inner screw attaches. Once you've removed both of those, you can push the cradle and motor assembly to the left. It will still be held in place by a tie wrap at the upper part, but there is no need to cut this as the motor assembly can be pushed out of the cradle in-situ Next, there is a blue wiring connector on the top of the motor assembly which when you push the cradle left should become visible. Use a small screwdriver to gently push the retaining clip inwards while pushing the connector up and off the motor. Once the connector is off, you can now remove the motor assembly from the cradle. There is a plastic pin on the top left of the cradle (nearest to you) which retains the motor. You should be able to push the motor assembly to the right which will detach it from the upper part of the cradle. The assembly can then be lifted upwards to clear the lower part of the cradle. The motor assembly will have a part number like v326800390.25844 (for a non-climate controlled version). I found some original parts on the web and brand new, they look to be around £150 or more. I didn't check with the local dealer to confirm, but found a number of reproduction parts on eBay and Amazon for around £15. Clearly not sure how long these will last, but I thought it was worth a go. There are a lot of these sorts of motors around as they are used for different air/heating controls. Ensure that the one you purchase has the same large plastic gear as the one you have removed. To test and set up the position of the motor and flaps, I found the best way was to first connect the new motor to the blue connector outside of the cradle, switch on the ignition, and then press the air recirculation button, which should drive the motor to one position. Then I switched off the air recirculation button to see the motor go back to it's open (fresh air ) position. Now, having turned off the ignition, and removed the connector, I put the new motor into the cradle and refitted the blue electrical connector. Next, I positioned the two flaps. The one in the passenger door well needs to be fully closed, and the fresh air flap needs to be fully open. You can see the fresh air flap by opening the bonnet, and then removing part of the rubber seal that holds the passenger part of the scuttle in place. You can then gently lift up the scuttle and see the flap. I think the flap defaults to fully open, but it's worth double checking. Once you're happy the flaps are in the right positions, you need to reposition the cradle back into place ensuring that the new motor gear pivot aligns into the side of the air blower assembly, and that the fresh air and footwell vents mesh with the motor gear. Once in place, you should be able to refit the two T10 screws . At this point I tested that it was working properly by turning on the ignition and turning the recirculation on/off checking that both flaps moved freely to the correct positions. Once that was all done, I put back the glovebox. One final warning, by having the airbag switch disconnected, and turning on/off the ignition a few times, it will log an error and likely you will see an airbag fault come up. You'll need something like Carista, or Carly to reset the fault. I don't think it's possible to leave the glovebox in a position with the airbag switch connected without it being in the way as the wire is very short.

Hey all Loving our new Elroq! A real pleasure to drive 🙂 Only a few minor niggles, have disabled the tailgate virtual pedal & wireless phone charging 👍 Is it possible to deactivate the exit chime? Not the end of the world if not, but it seems a little redundant as I'm usually aware when I've stepped out of the vehicle 😂 Cheers, Paul

AFAIK the swap has never been done, Only seen 1.4TSI Swaps. But, From what i've heard, a 1.8TSI swap is entirely possible given a full donor car is available, also aftermarket immobilizer i think too, so I dont see why the 2.0 wouldn't fit.

An update to close out this thread. Changing the spark plugs did the trick, hindsight being a valuable thing i should have done this when the misfire first occurred.. Plugs were pretty poor, I suspect my garage had not changed them for a while. The garage said they had inspected them and they were OK, but i am sceptical.

Are you sure its a Bolero unit? it looks like my Amundsen mib2 (does it have x2 SD card slots?) Your symptoms sound like the digitizer is dying as that causes all sorts of random things to happen, especially when its cold, random calls, changing radio stations and listened to music. its a cheap repair using a new digitizer off e-bay and a video on you tube, takes about an hour to do yourself, just need a set of Torx screwdrivers and a bit of patience eBay UKSKODA YETI 2015-19 MIB2 HEAD UNIT SAT NAV TOUCH SCREEN DI...Compatible with SKODA YETI 2015-19 MIB2 5L0035200B.

Hello everyone i am new to this forum. I hope to read a lot off stuff and learn more. I drive a 2022 VRS combi and loving it.

Bonjour ! We were all new at one time. From joining a motoring forum to popping out our mummy's tummy all slimy and noisy. Hopefully this forum will be a less traumatic experience. 😄

Sent in PM

Bought my yeti a couple weeks ago had the same problem with the engine running cold. was bugging me so done a bit of research and came across this form. I purchased the cheap hidden thermostat, my mechanic said it wouldnt make a difference as he thought it was something else. Ended up replacing it and proving him wrong runs perfect now. Thankyou so much for the info

No, as I said in my 1st post, I normally run my 16s at those pressures.

Damage or just wear? Pics of the bits or old strainer? They can go a lot further than yours has on original chain/tensioner/guides.

Can be measured in few minutes with a manometer. Has a 1.6 Felicia year 1999 (with ECU) these? NO need for E10, E5 works perfect. Spark plugs checked?

Why? Is the oil pressure OK now?

Hi Martin, Welcome to Briskoda! You will definitely learn a lot around here 😂

Given the liberal use of the parts cannon, I'd suggest an Italian tune up next, preferably with a reliable mate in a faster car following you to report on any exhaust smoke (colour and density).

in most cases 0w30 will be better instead 5w30, due higher percentage of true synthetic additives i can recommend 0w30 Liqui Moly TOP TEC 4210 LL3 DNFE 280ps 2023.

Ah yes, it might work differently. Mine is DSG. I suppose it could be that my button is getting a bit worn or corroded internally, and sometimes loses contact.

Success! I started the software update as we left the ferry in Dover and when we made our first stop for a break it was showing they now the version dated June 2025.

You say it has had a recent 'full service' was the air filter replaced then?

I'd suggest asking the mechanic at the 2nd garage you took it to, but any reputable diesel service workshop should be able to supply this service. Black exhaust smoke aside, are you able to gauge performance of the engine power under load, does the turbo appear to be supplying boost?

Finally cover for the aircon unit tidies it up Next project also arrived

Ah, I wonder if the difference might be that SWMBOs Fabia is a manual? I assume your VR6 is DSG?

I was told by several different VAG techs that I know, that it was 0w-30 from the gen3 GPF unit. It came out of the factory with this grade to comply with the WLTP standards and would then be changed back to 5w-30 at the first service.

On mine, a brief press and release of the button simply switches the ignition on. Once the ignition is on and your foot is on the brake, a brief press of the button will give a brief cough from the starter, but the engine doesn’t start. You have to hold the button until it starts. Likewise if you’re starting from ignition off, you have to press and hold with your foot on the brake. This is correct according to the manual, which says you have to press and hold.

Spent ages findIng this, I seem to be missing a bracket, part 10 in diagram. Looks like it's held/clamped in place by the strut pinch bolt. No chance of finding one of these, so looks like I'll be having to manufacture one.

That could be Rotterdam or anywhere, Liverpool or Rome.... 😉

Thanks ords I have a file opener, so when the link wanted me to download another pdf opener,..... we're warned all the time about clicking on links.. Perhaps paying for the Ewin manual might be better

SWMBOs Fabia is keyless ignition, her start button requires just a press & immediate release of button to start - could it be that holding the button in, rather than releasing immediately is part of your issue?

A few from today's visit to Yorkshire Sculpture Park Yorkshire Sculpture ParkHome | Yorkshire Sculpture ParkArt Outdoors

And it's finally here :)

Get a new one. This says Mit Silikat on the side and so it has a silica bag inside, which is designed to aid the life of the coolant, but eventually breaks down and blocks the cooling system. Whilst you don’t want it to be urgent, if the header tank looks like it’s had a fair innings and your cooling system is working ok (I think you notice a lack of hot air when things go wrong) then I’d say you’re possibly getting towards being on borrowed time on this.

So, as I am currently unable to work due to health issues, I decided to make myself a boot liner. I don't have a large income so decided to make one on the cheap. I purchased some Halfords floor mats and modified them to cover my boot space to protect the floor. it cost about £10 and is waterproof to a degree, but far from fully waterproof. Have you made any modifications that you were able to make yourself? It does the job, it was cheap and I accept not as good as an original cover, needs must.

Thank you so much for your input. The coolant level is correct and has remained so. A visual inspection by him did not find any other abnormalities like a kinked hose. When it first happened and after researching I did initially jump to a timing belt change and water pump. This was after it happening once but he said to monitor it. As you stated above, I think this is now my course of action. I have spoken to Skoda to obtain the price of a Thermostat as I was looking at doing this myself, but frustratingly they informed me there are two types for my car, Joop and Geiger and the only way to tell is to check which one is fitted. So before I do this I need to strip out the air filter housing to see this.

Not if it’s OE spec - pattern parts are used in non-dealers all the time and they’re designed to do the exact same thing. Even something that was originally designed for an Arteon, if it’s within the same tolerances and there to do the same job then I don’t think it’s an issue - i.e. the rule of thumb is if it’s not there to change the performance of the vehicle then it’s not an issue. 2 things come into that though - what defines changing the performance of the vehicle - engine output is an easy one as it’s definitive and measurable but something more subjective such as OE size brake pads of an improved nature may mean (a) nothing at all, (b) that the driver requires something to stop better so perhaps he’s driving faster (c) that the driver merely wants to have better braking as it’s increase safety. Entirely down to the insurer which way they want to look at it. Which is the second point - it’s all speculation when in reality it also depends on the insurance company, what their risk modelling is, what they profit margin is, how they view drivers as opposed to vehicles etc.

Pretty straight forward once you know how! 🙂

I myself purchased a subscription, since I don’t like to drive with a USB plugged in all the time, but I also purchased this option (just in case), the compartment closes and the USB flash drive is not visible: In both cases, the maps are updated only for the region where the car is moving, it is as it is.

It’s very common, mines has done it from day 1 (I’ve had my MK2 for 4 weeks). There is or soon will be a software update to fix it. It’s not a problem to me as I don’t use the Skoda satnav - Googlemaps and Waze via CarPlay are far superior so even if I could get the maps to load on my dash, I wouldn’t be using it anyway.