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Hello there. Freshly downloaded. Take a piece if you need ;) https://1drv.ms/f/c/d868f7f8e8ece8e8/Eh7N58_7gyZCtogSIt8kgisB4ZszuIGLrZTSSsdabNOtZw?e=5mWfuG

Left as experienced when sitting in car facing forward. So nearside in UK.

There is no component protection. You can change them in the right order No contact on. Undo the screws. Remove fuse 30 and 46. Change the screens. Put it in place and put the fuses back. Make contact. If it's all normal screens starts up no problems. Screws back in place ready to go. All is to read and see in the pictures in this forum. It's simpel but don't forget the fuses Before I forget screen must be H49 hardware. 44 to 47 had the same problems

The yellow Engine lamp is the Engine management system lamp and comes on for a multiple of reasons mainly regarding emissions A code reader would identify the problem

Best not carry a Smart phone about then.

Artisanal, hand hammered outer sill plate. return fashioned in the vise, curve formed on the argon bottle and tweaked with some sweating.. it's close and can probably be hammered in as it goes: Honestly this could be a LOT worse than it is. quite a bit of tin left on the inner sill. It's a horrible job getting the underseal off, I'm using a serious wire wheel in a drill. So the plan, as it forms, is to reinstate the inner sill first, repair the mid sill bottom plate, then weld on the outer, plug welding it to the mid sill and inner. Then there's another bit to do at the rear of the sill which will probably be a bunch more fun, and there's a split boot on the left hand drive shaft which needs ministration. Not going anything like as fast as I'd like but the post covid malaise is real (also I've got the DRO fitted to my milling machine which is a satisfying job to have completed; and gave me the confidence to get hacking at the sill) In good news, the repairs will all be below the beltline where your eye falls when you're looking at the thing so should be fairly discreet. yay.

They won’t care. I’d look at Pilot Sport 5s. Ideally replace all 4 at the same time. But it depends when your lease is up though? If soon, just get the same S005s. I always like all 4 corners to be the same.

FWIW my Nextbase Duo attaches to the USB-C port next to the mirror with a short USB C/Mini cable and no DAB reception issue at all. A ferrite core cable should help. I'll never drive a car without a dashcam again, since I've had 9 dangerous tailgaters prosecuted ;-)

1. Don't use bricks instead of coach stands or wood blocks. Bricks can crumble unexpectedly, leaving you supporting half a car on your chest. 2. You may or may not have broken a sensor probably the LH rear. First suggestion is to use a code reader to reset the errors, and see which, if any, recur.

Internal Use. (They would not like the toe of a boot right up their jacksy. Big Dealership groups have done it for a couple of decades. Your radio Station, locations from the sat nav etc. Illegal use of information. The barstewards can be quick enough to tell you warranty work done on the car is covered by DATA Protection while they break that as a matter of coarse.

Going to be two hours of free lecky tomorrow, Sunday, might be just for those on Octopus who have been partaking in the Free Sessions. Think Octopus think that if they get users to use in early afternoon when lecky virtual free to them, less than a penny per kwh, we will use less day time, 27p per kwh, or even Night time, 8p per kwh and save them money too. My average for last month was 12p per kwh for that which I did use from the Grid. For the solar I generated myself just the capital cost of panels etc.

Yeah let's see what happens. Tuesday i think I'll get the car back.

Yep, I’m replacing mine because loads of the orange paint has flaked off. I’m surprised it passed the MOT because they’re not very orange any more. I tried a PY21W LED that claimed to be “canbus compatible”, but it raised a bulb failure warning. It was fine on hazards, but with ignition on and signalling, the error occurred immediately. Perhaps the bulb-checking only happens with the ignition on. It was also a little too bright for night-time use. So I tried another one off eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374844629873?var=643919891661 I received the second one today and it appears to work, and is a little less bright. I’ll have another look when it’s dark. The PY21W retrofit LEDs are generally slimmer and do fit through the hole. I don’t think I’ve ever come across any other car that uses RY10W indicators; they seem more common on bikes. I did find a thread elsewhere on Briskoda about the front indicators, and that did mention a Torx T20 screw securing the base of the bulb. The thread implied that the screw is just about accessible, and only needs loosening. Easier on the left side, apparently. The front indicators are my next target for retrofitting LEDs. I think it’s fine to have brighter ones on the front because at night they’re competing with the brightness of your headlights and therefore unlikely to cause dazzle. I believe the correct type is PH24WY, but I haven’t confirmed that yet. My experience is that “canbus compatible” is no guarantee that a bulb will work, but it’s worth persevering and you may well find one that does. By the way, before someone tells me that the bulb checking is nothing to do with the canbus per se, yes I know that. But rightly or wrongly the phrase “canbus compatible” has become lingua franca when discussing retrofit LEDs. Technically wrong, but it’s the phrase everyone uses.

The yellow engine management lamp is a big generator of revenue for dealerships. Depending upon whether it will reset itself after an activation if the fault goes away. Investing in an obd reader that can turn it off is a must. You can end up paying to have the light turned off when that was all that was needed to be done after an erroneous error report. Some cars will reset the lamp if you cycle the ignition a few times without starting the car. Obviously if it keeps returning after a while it needs further investigation

Only when they're at the same end of the engine. 😉

Seem to remember matt Armstrong repairing a Lambo that was that new that even Lambo did not have the ability to reset a module and he had to buy a new module

Possibly TESLA would like that they could make it that only they can do that. Fortunately there are smart people that will be trained and experienced and can offer that service. After all the Insurers allowed the sale of the vehicle and the repair of it is allowed in the UK. No restrictions that it must be parted out. If TESLA want control of products / vehicles they sell then they should be buying them back. Party out it would be worth more than it was purchased for. The vehicle appears to be receiving anything special in the way of storage unless that open air parking space and distance from buildings is it & no idea about the transportation of it.

@Dr_Mike_Oxgreen Just removed the tail lights (of my MY 2012 S2C), to check, and indeed you are right. My car also has Philips RY10W installed (they were replaced by my garage in 2019, since from the originals the orange paint was flaking off). Also tried a PY21W which I had laying around, and it definitely does not fit. Important note to others: The owners manual is wrong here. It specifies the wrong (PY21W) type. P.S. Anyone ever tried to remove the front indicator lights and wondered why their exchange is not explained in the owners manual? Just found the answer to that question: Some idiot engineer designed a fitting which is secured by a (torx) screw, and the workshop manual says that you have to remove the front wheel and the inner wheel arch to reach it... Why they didn't design it with a common bayonet fitting will probably always remain a mystery....

This is a channel that I follow and already watched this video, it will be good to see the final conclusion of this repair and just how Tesla play along with this as they will still have the final word in as much as they have the ability to allow this to proceed or shut it down with their remote access to the car, they may even be able to prevent the car from using their chargers at the very least. Great channel though, hence it is a must view one for me.

As far as I can make out not all controllers 'know' the time and date and even if they do they will record the time, date and mileage of the first event of that code and simply add 1 each time to the frequency counter thereafter rather than update the time/date mileage. I think Jez has a genuine case and he should be clear with the warranty company on the phone that he no longer feels safe driving the car. When the recovery guy arrives ask him for a copy of any codes. He can only say no but usually the dedicated VW/Skoda guys are quite knowledgeable and helpful.

That's exactly the kind of thing I was wondering about. I guess it's like everything else...there's a reason why some are cheaper than others! Better to pay extra and get something that actually fits the bill

Personally i think the blind are leading the blind. The timing belt might well be the issue as with many who never used the tool and locked the engine correctly.

@aslan14 MQB3_OI_JND_Europe_v1.31.48b.zip

This is worth a try, but aren't the DTCs date-stamped? Clearly the vehicle is not fit to be in continued use as it stands.

Apologies for digging up an ancient thread, but I have just received a pair of PY21W bulbs to replace the rear indicators on my 2012 pre-facelift combi. And they do not fit. The base fitting is the correct size, and the 150° pins are correct, and the bulb does not raise a warning on the dashboard. But the glass body of the bulb is too big to fit through the hole in the light cluster. The bulb you need is RY10W. Identical fitting, but smaller glass and less wattage (10W versus 21W). The information above is incorrect. 581 is a PY21W, and that will physically not fit into the light cluster. Hopefully this information will help anyone searching for this in the future.

I would pick a convenient place for you and just invoke the warranty and explain the faults exactly as they were were last time happened. There will be plenty of codes in the controller for the auto box recorded and saved. What appears on your dash is irrelevant to them other than a basic start. It is quite normal for dash warnings to disappear on a switch off/restart so whether it is there at the time or not is not a big thing. The Skoda recovery guy will probably already know about your problem if it is common and he is a clued up guy even if he isn't at liberty to tell you much about it. This tiny white lie pales into insignificance against the car losing power/selecting neutral or anything else you don't want to happen on a motorway.

Cheapest way would be to contact a local member who has HEX-V2 or HEX-NET VCDS.

Hey, I think I did it 4 years ago, I changed every filter last year but forgot the fuel filter ordering it now! Thanks for the advice

Hi Everyone, new here to the forum. Kinda fresh owner of a 2020 Superb IV. Some people might curse me for it, but it was red and I had it wrapped in "Gloss Auratium Green". I wanted a unique car, something green in the line of the Nardo Grey color but not Nardo Grey ;) In my opinion it worked out really well, love how different the car looks during the day versus evening / dusk. Funny how opinions on the color of my car are quite hefty. People either love it or hate it. I've been looking to get some other winter alloys. Any good tips on what OEM rims would look good? Love the current combination of black and chrome on the wheels. I thought the 19 inch Cursa wheels with black/chrome would look good but can't find any examples of Superbs with those rims. (https://originele-velgen.com/originele-skoda-kodiaq-ns7-cursa-565601025ap-ha7-lichtmetalen-velgen-19inch/)

I did mine myself and 1 extra step before you remove the plug.. Get some kitchen roll and a long screwdriver or something pokey and clean around the plug / absorb all the extra plusgas before removing. There was a good bit of grime and I'm pretty sure you don't want that flying in once you remove the plug.

My Karoq has Gen 3 ceramic coating for the body. It came with a Gen 3 pack that included leather and fabric cleaner. However, a wipe with a damp microfiber cloth has worked so far and I am yeat to use the Gen 3 cleaner. As others have noted, almost any of the car leather sprays will work.

Just cleaned mine. You won’t be able to clean the inside of the rim with the covers on.

Forgot to mention about the brakes ... the slider pin section of the caliper bolts were bone dry, with a solidified hint of a dab of grease put long time ago. Once properly cleaned with scotchbrite and greased, the movement within the support was like .... night and day. I was surprised because usually I see this in much much older and more "traveled" vehicles .... I recommend to all of ya that have passed some years or mileage, set aside some time, especially if your swap tires, to remove bolts and verify, and ensure are in proper maintained condition! It is a simple job, does not require specialized tools, just some patience and care.

Thanks for that. The "charging locations" are described in my Leon's manual as something I can set up in the infotainment. And then I can assign a schedule with a location, with a departure time.... or at least I could if this functionality existed yet... For my Leon it's part of the missing "Schedule" menu option on the Infotainment screen. I guess it might appear in the MySEAT app as well but there's no sign at present. With my Zappi wall-box it can stop and start the charge - to be fair this seems to resume OK when it does this, although you can see that there is a faffing period when the car and wall-box renegotiate things after a restart.

Nearly all modern engines will make use of a better grade of fuel automatically. They nearly all have sophisticated knock detection and will advance the ignition accordingly. The major reason for not using E10 is the water it absorbs if left in the tank for a longish time. Hence the constant advice to use E5 if you do low mileage. As an aside, never use E10 if you have petrol powered garden tools. It'll spell early death for them.

Bit late to this thread but it is possible to slightly muck up cam timing without doing catastrophic damage to the engine. That said with all the short journeys it could just be the engine needs a good run on good fuel. Other possibility is that it needs a carbon clean assuming that injectors, coil packs and sparkplugs all ok.

There is no reason to change the timing belt on a 2020 car in 2025 - whoever advised it is way out of date since Skoda UK finally got in line with the rest of the VAG empire a while back and scrapped the ridiculous 5 year interval.

I wonder where designers get all their ideas from... CoPilot draw me a childish picture of a car.... 10min with a free AI and I am a car designer Admittedly it refuses to include a banana for scale

Is it just me or does every new car now seem to have been designed in Minecraft? I used to be able to identify a car in seconds from a flash of one corner or a small part, now...nope I have no idea everything looks the same.

Image of a cross between Santa and Fez .

These are the areas that need attention. Both sills need rubbing down, treating and painting and the wheels could do with a refurb. But just look at it though. won't take much to sort out the aesthetics.

Oh dear, misunderstood what I said again, you smugly asked the question if there was a way that you could free fuel with diesel or petrol cars? My reply to that question showed that there was indeed a way of not only doing it, but how they ensure parity for the average user, it just needs the will to do it. At no point did I actually suggest that I was getting any free fuel.☹️