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The best advice I can give you on engine swaps, is that if you have to ask for advice, don't do it. But if you really MUST do it, expect the project cost to spiral, expect to have to put-up with some unfortunate trade-offs (which could be benign or downright infuriating), brace yourself for some insurance issues, and expect to have the car for life because it'll be tricky to sell. Edit: I forgot, expect it to take about 5 to 10 times longer than you expected it to take.

This is the first 1.2 TSI with a head gasket failure that i have read of on here. A salvage engine might well have been a 'simply clever' fix.

Hi all, On my second Octavia and interested in being a bit more involved with i, perhaps doing upgrades etc. Thank you

The test drive to Folkestone was a success, except: I needed a service stop before we reached Folkestone. Saw the "Services" sign board too late, hit the brakes, hard left into the slip road, hit a low curb with both front wheels. Bang! So, today I took the Big Red Bus to have the wheels balanced and aligned. Both front rims were warped on the inside, but not the outside. The damage was slight, did not affect the balancing and the mechanic said it was cosmetic only, not to worry. The fronts are now on the rear. The cost of peace of mind is £110. Oh, yeah: The mechanic had to drive the car to the end of the road to turn it around for some reason. This was the first time I've seen my car going and coming. I thought, "That's a good looking car!"

and for the right side the part number seems to be 6Y0837478A

The window aperture seal is 6Y0837477A or 6Y0837478A for 2000-2008: https://webautocats.com/etka/part/6Y0837477A/

A couple of weeks ago the 2025 edition of the 3000km race from Darwin to Adelaide concluded in Adelaide and I went up to view the vehicles on public display. There were two classes: The "F1" equivalent "Challenger" class winner finished in just under 35 racing hours at an average speed of 86.6kph The other is the "Cruiser" class, which aspire to carry one or more passengers other than the driver, and the winner finished in 44 racing hours at an average of 68.7kph. The race has been conducted for a number of years but the first time it was conducted in winter (winter below the tropic of cancer anyway). Less sun for power but also less heat stress on the drivers in their pods. Externally there are a lot of visual similarities in the Challenger class to achieve low aerodynamic drag, the allowed 6 square metres of solar panels. The driver is either centrally mounted or offset to one side. Internally there is much more variation depending on whether they could afford a carbon-fibre monocoque or went for a more conservative and cheaper skinned tubular steel frame. The suspension engineering was pretty impressive because maximum speeds could be as high as the 130kph limits in the Northern Territory and also had to survive traversing cattle grids at speed. Aero is so important because they not only need low drag but must have stability to survive crosswinds and gusts from oncoming road-trains. It is all cutting-edge stuff and talking to a couple of the support teams they had their work cut out getting sleep in tents (in the outback), maintaining the cars and then driving all day between obligatory control points. Lots of videos online and a good place to start is: Bridgestone World Solar Challenge 2025

Annnnnnd after submitting some more pictures and a video, incidentally exactly the same pictures and video I was asked to supply at the start of the process, apparently this time it's ok. No load test, nothing done on site just two months of delays to review the same information again before the same fitter comes back to finish the job he started in August. No one does bureaucracy like Britain!

I agree. If you have to ask, you can’t do it. That being said, the engine comparison is oranges and apples. They’re completely different engines - while a PDXXX (Pumpe Duse) unit is bombproof, the later Common Rail units aren’t exactly known for their unreliability. Equally, the 1.9TDI does have some issues (well, later ones did AFAIK) but the 1.6TDI has a DPF and other fun things that go wrong.

They havent yet said its not covered - they have only gone as far as saying they aren't sure. I will update when I get a decision. On the positive side - I've now got a nice shiny 25 plate Kodiaq courtesy car on the drive with only 500 miles on.. I'm off to Wales on my jollies tomorrow so I'm going to enjoy road testing it.

Hi - The previous owner had it done because he wanted it doing - he was an older gent who was clearly used to old school ways - Every service, every extra oil/air/pollen/brake fluid/air con/gearbox oil change all carried out at franchise approved dealer..

When you put a vehicle in for a service you are signing to allow them to do a Software update / enhancement if there is anything outstanding. If you do not want them doing any Factory Reset or Updates put that in writing. The Service Partner is working for you. If you have any Warranty Claims though they are your Agent and the Warranty providers. ? What sort of mods / bits of coding is what matters, if it is about a Warranty.

The DB5 was a still from my dashcam, so a bit grainy, but stunning in the flesh though! The Porsche was in a multistorey car park:

My Superb 280tsi is 1.75 years old so I was rather surprised when, after taking it for a service at the local Skoda dealer, they called me to upsell "needs new front and rear wiper blades, needs brake fluid change, needs Haldex fluid change". "Hmmm " said I, "nothing wrong with the front wipers, the rear one has been rubbish from new (seems to be a hopeless design and I doubt replacing it would make it any better), the brake fluid is 3 years then every 2 years, and the Haldex is every 3 years. Well, unless the recommendations have changed recently." "They have" he said. I didn't believe but when I went to collect the car he did show me the printout which now shows brake fluid every 2 years and Haldex every 2 years. Althought they had cocked up thinking the car was Sept 2023 when actually it is Dec 2023. But interesting that Skoda have changed the recommendations to 2 years. So one point to them Then I noticed that the car had another 7 miles on the clock, which seems excessive for a brief road test. Unfortunately they always disconnect the dashcam so I can't see them exploring the 0-62 in 5.3 seconds bit! And when I started the car, the "check engine" light came on straight away. Turns out the dispstick hadn't been put bak in properly. And presumably the check engine light had been on during the 7 mile "road test" thrash, but they hadn't noticed. Not much point in doing a road test then! I was not impressed.

@nicknorman you’re not tied to any dealer. If you’re not happy then have a look around for alternatives. For wipers ask them how much they’ll charge and compare to Bosch from ECP etc. But someone had the genius idea of getting the Arteon version which is slightly longer so you clear more of the screen. This is the part number for front and rear and how much they were from Tayna which was the best price I could find at the time. I found I had to trim a tiny bit of the clip down but once I realised which bit it was easy. For Haldex and Brake Fluid - you don’t have to get them done at a dealer for warranty as they are maintenance and not servicing work. Warranty relies on servicing but maintenance can be done as long as it’s done at a proper place and the service record can be updated. I had a very respected specialist do it and also included (what Oot alluded to) cleaning the gauze on the Haldex pump. It isn’t on the official VAG workshop process but anyone with a pulse sees that cleaning the gauze is absolutely vital so it doesn’t contaminate the clean oil. Pics attached of my before and after at 2 years/12k miles.

Extremely poor messing about by Octopus. Glad that's over. So going ahead with EV then? My guess is the fitter wanted confirmation that he can install, first time round photos/load wasn't reviewed properly so fitter didn't want to bear the responsibility. Second time round someone at HQ looked at it properly and worked out that charge point auto derating feature is sufficient to deal with household usage.

Of course, I was forgetting about that aspect entirely.🤦🏻‍♂️

I think this is an Android Auto setting, rather than the Infotainment system, and I think the default may have changed, because I have found mine sometimes starts playing music by default. In Settings on your phone, search for "Auto" and you should find a Android Auto section. There you will find an option to automatically start playing media. See if that works!

Correct. I am also on the UP forum as I have both an UP and a Citigo. Thanks. AG Falco

The below information is extracted from the Superb MK3 and Superb MK4 owners' manuals. The offset ranges of -2mm to +2mm that wheel-size.com show on their website appear to be arbitrary numbers plucked out of thin air, so probably best ignored. Some countries in Europe (such as Germany) don't allow you to use a wheel size that's not in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity). However, if legalities and insurance allow you might want to also look at the winter wheel sizes (ie. suitable for snow chains) that the Superb MK3 lists in its owner's manual...ie. 215/60R16 6.5Jx16 ET41 and 215/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET41. Bear in mind, that the Superb MK4 does use an ET41 offset with its 215/55R17 7.5Jx17 ET41 wheel size. Technical data and specifications (Superb MK3) Permitted rim and tyre combinations for mounting snow chains: Rim dimensions Tyre dimensions 6,5Jx16 ET41 215/60 R16 6,5Jx17 ET41 215/55 R17 Only use snow chains with links no larger than 13 mm, including locks. Technical data and specifications (Superb MK4) Permitted rim and tyre combinations for mounting snow chains: Rim dimensions Tyre dimensions 7J×16 ET43 215/60 R16 7J×17 ET43 215/55 R17 Only use snow chains with links no larger than 13 mm, including locks.

A set of brake pads are included in the stuff I have for you which will get to you eventually! Great work as always though. I'm sure that sill end won't be as much of a challenge as the windscreen aperture. Plus it doesn't have to be too neat! Keep it going, you're nearly there.😁

@Philly112 You've misunderstood me. What I'm suggesting is a simple wheel swap with an SE, not downgrading your purchase. So you keep the SEL & the dealer gets a free upgrade of his SE. I'm kicking myself that I didn't think of this before signing off on my SEL.

Did you get the center cap size from somewhere? If not i can try to help you

Something you could try is ask the dealer if they have a new SE in stock with the 17" & see if they'd be willing to swap. I wish I'd done that. The Procyon look dreadful without the cheese graters IMO. In common with many modern wheel designs there's far too little metal, leaving the disc rotors & calipers far too visible. Additionally there's a channel around the rim for the cheese grater to fit into which is nigh impossible to clean of brake dust because it's so small. So I've left them on & have been looking for a set of 17"s.

Good point - DPF would kill the option alone I think...

Thanks for accepting me

As you can see in the chart below, there are no 65 aspect ratio tyres approved by Skoda for the Kamiq. A spare wheel doesn't need to be approved by Skoda...so you could use 195/65R16 6Jx16 ET35 for a spare wheel. Wheels approved by Skoda are listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity). For a 16" spare wheel to match a 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40, perhaps consider 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40. Doofy found that a 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 fitted in his Kamiq, so 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40 should also fit. Bear in mind that 205/60R16 is a cheaper and more common tyre size than both 195/60R16 and 195/65R16. Kamiq wheel sizes (approved by Skoda) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 (winter tyre size, suitable for snow chains) 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40 215/45R18 7Jx18 ET39 Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AKamiq%2B%25282019%252B%2529&text=# Outside diameter of tyres 195/60R16 640.4mm 195/65R16 659.9mm (non-standard) 205/55R16 631.9mm (non-standard) 205/60R16 652.4mm 205/55R17 657.3mm 215/45R18 650.7mm 225/45R18 659.7mm (non-standard) Doofy's Kamiq spare wheel thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517749-kamiq-spare-wheel/ Alcar 6664 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1077003525243802724&rimCode=ALCAR6664 Alcar 6977 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1087670437300671588&rimCode=ALCAR6977

Engine is running smoothly without any issue. I will try to replace engine mount on the left side and engine mount which is also transmission mount on the right side. Hope It will help.

My Monte Carlo has 18” wheels and has a 16” spare wheel, but the tyre profiles are different profiles resulting in a very slight difference in circumference.

Is the tyre profile the same on both 16 & 17"?

Yeah all appears OK now. Think they reset the selector cables. Also plugged into computer and had to tell ECU that it has a new clutch which then resolved the hold assist feature and seems to release nicely now. Fingers crossed thats the issues resolved now. 🤞

All sorted now. Garage were able to plug car in and said they needed to tell ECU that a new clutch had been installed which then sorted the hold assist out and now releases perfectly. They also did rear pads and everything feels OK now 🤞

Why would you want to put an inferior engine into it.

Hi all, another glitch with my brand new Scala SE L, four times now the front assist warning has lit up on the dash in front of me with absolutely nothing in front of the car and in good dry weather, is this a common ailment ? It hasn't hit the brakes yet but it is a bit worrying.

This letter below was 2013-2015 DQ200,s. A Service Campaign. Many never got '34H5' done and many Keepers never informed. Plenty failures. After 2015 there were more issues, Software Updates required and uprated Clutch Packs. Covered in TPIs. 'See Fabia mk3 section/ 'Famous DQ200 Clutch Slip' thread. ' This is not just Fabias from 2015. Euro 6. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/439395-the-story-of-the-fmous-dq200-clutch-slip

@Exkiwi Yes 2009-2012 over 5 million DQ200 DSG,s recalled world wide, excluding Europe which is not in th World of VW Group. (in 2014 they were forced to do a Service Campaign in Europe, EU /UK) Synthetic oil changed for mineral and a Software update. '34F7'. Then 2013-2015 the issue was overheating / pressure and another Service Campaign. '34H5'. Many cars never got that done. Cracked boxes, accumulators, MCU leaks resulted. In NEW ZEALAND 2012 ALL DQ200,s were RECALLED, all got a BRAND NEW MCU & Software update. That was less than 3,000 vehicles. In Australia there have been 3 RECALLS now because vehicles missed. 2009-2012, 2012-2016. So OP,s DQ200 DSG. A 2019 and nothing to do with any of the above. PS China / Asia 2012 VW had to put a 100,000 mile / 10 year warranty on the DQ200,s. Because there were Governments that could tear them a new one, like in the USA.

@JJC77 when you find an Automatic Specialist to check / diagnose the issue of the DQ200 with no service scheduled or guidelines for oil changes they will know it has 2 oils to chsnge, in the box and in the MCU. Do not let just anyone mess with it.

I'm not booking mine in for an update until I actually have a problem that's hard to live with, or I'm contacted for an urgent recall.

Not long collected a 2024 85 edition in race blue. Dealer says ex Škoda management. Man maths makes it cost the same as the old Scala based on TCO. Second EV joining an e-up!

I am very tempted, just need to find a decent spec'd car now then. Does appear that the latest updates have curbed the issues somewhat

I'd guess that would depend on the mod - ordinary enabling of additional features wouldn't.

The below lists of increased ride height springs for the Superb MK3 are listed in order of stiffness, ie. the hierarchy. 5Q0411105HR increased ride height front springs might be suitable for a Superb MK3 2.0TSI/2.0TDI, ie. one of the heavier engined cars. 3Q0511115AS increased ride height rear springs might be suitable for a Superb MK3 FWD. 3Q0511115BA increased ride height rear springs might be suitable for a Superb MK3 4x4. The 4x4 uses slightly stiffer rear springs (perhaps two up in the hierarchy) than the FWD car, due to the extra weight of the 4x4 system. Superb MK3 front springs (increased ride height) 5Q0411105HL 5Q0411105HM 5Q0411105HN 5Q0411105HP 5Q0411105HQ 5Q0411105HR 5Q0411105HS 5Q0411105HT https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411000 Superb MK3 rear springs (increased ride height) 3Q0511115BG 3Q0511115AN 3Q0511115AP 3Q0511115AQ 3Q0511115AR 3Q0511115AS 3Q0511115AT 3Q0511115BA 3Q0511115BB 3Q0511115BE https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511000 Eibach R14100 front springs (increased ride height) (sold to replace 5Q0411105HR) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/5q0411105hr?supplier%5B%5D=112 Eibach R22930 rear springs (increased ride height) (sold to replace 3Q0511115AS) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115as?supplier%5B%5D=112 Eibach R22931 rear springs (increased ride height) (sold to replace 3Q051115BA) https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/3q0511115ba?supplier%5B%5D=112 Buffers for front shock absorbers (Superb MK3) 1K0412303B 70mm (standard ride height) 1K0412303F 55mm (lowered ride height) 1K0412303AA 90mm (increased ride height) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/4/411/411000 Buffers for rear shock absorbers (Superb MK3) 5Q0511357H 127mm (standard ride height, increased ride height) 5Q0511357J 112mm (lowered ride height) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/5/511/511000

I just want to know WTF he’s on about?

I believe the usual sequence of events is overheating followed by mechanical failure of the head/block joint (loss of gasket compression), rather than the converse.

Ignore the doubling up suggestion. Would be way too thick. 6 thou doesn't sound like a huge lot, but I'm no expert.

Always had a soft spot for these although not too sure about the colour 🤔

Well here's what happened FWIW. Motorway valued it around £15,000 Autotrader around £14,500 I decided to stick an ad on Autotrader and see what happened. Before the offer posts they offer the chance to sell it via their 'Dealer Auction' service where it goes out to dealers in an online auction for a couple of days. As it's free I thought I might as well give it a go. Once it finished I got a phone call to discuss the results. Highest offer was about £13,700 which I wasn't happy with. They asked a couple of questions and then phoned back later and said the dealer said he would go up to £13,850 on the basis that I had the parcel shelf (it was missing in my photos). I rejected this too. They tried to put the frighteners on me saying it takes on average of 30 days to sell the car privately and I would have teams of boy racers coming round to floor the GTI. I put it on Autotrader as a standard ad at £14,750. Later the same day I had a call from BigWantsYourCar saying they could offer the full asking price. I sent them a few extra pictures highlighting any damage (few scratches and a couple of the alloys kerbed slightly) but they maintained the price. Dropped it round at the nearest site to me (they also offer free home collection). A chap came out and spent probably 15-20 minutes looking over the car including a short drive around the car park. The moment of truth arrived - I had been expecting at least some kind of attempt to try and knock me down on price but he simply came in and said he was happy with it. He then took the service documents, V5 etc and came back a few minutes later saying I should have an email from them which I did. Entered my bank details and a few seconds later the money was in the account! Overall very happy with the way it all went - very hassle free and not trying to negotiate on the price was a big plus! I might have managed to get slightly more for it from a private seller but selling to a dealer was way less hassle as well as less risky. For anyone who's thinking of selling a car I would definitely give them a go. Oh and WBAC's offer was £2,000 less than I got (and before they try and beat you down too...)

Good comment above about the springs being "soft", this is also producing excess chassis/body movement which can be detrimental!🙂 I am using DCC almost always on Sport, and i noticed the added rigidity is less of a bother compared with the large, excessive body roll/pitch usually associated with the "Normal/Eco" settings ...

No such thing on a felicia.

Some follow-up on Halfords failing to code my new battery fitted by them. Everything was working OK, but I was worried about the longevity of the battery and was going to find someone local with a VCDS as suggested by this forum. However, I have a Vgate adapter with WiFi connection anyway and started looking at the diagnostics with different softwares on my Android phone. To my surprise the CarScanner App actually has the ability to do quite a lot of coding built into it for certain models (incl. most Skodas) - google car scanner to get to their site and look at the tab for "coding and service" It shows which cars it will code. Note that to see the coding button on the app you need to have setup a connection profile for your Skoda first in settings (for my Octavia 3 1.2 TSI it is the second profile on the Skoda list) and it has to be connected to the car CPU by WiFi or Bluetooth, whichever you have on your adapter. When you start, it strongly recommends that you backup all your car settings before changing anything and warns that it takes some time (about 5-10 minutes) Then I scrolled to the battery section and it has the standard 4 parameters: Capacity, Type, Manufacturer and Serial number. I changed all of them as suggested in this forum. Capacity from 59 Ah to 70 Ah, Type from EFB to Fleece (for AGM) manufacturer from JCB to HAL and changed the serial number from 11111111111 to 11111111112. It happily accepted all of these parameters and showed them as the stored parameters when I looked later. A word of warning - the free version of CarScanner only lets you change 3 parameters so I had to buy the pro version for £4 halfway through programming, but if you don't want to buy it, then don't change the manufacturer code as that is the only one which doesn't actually need changing and just change the serial number to make it realise that you have a new battery plus the capacity and type if you need to. Everything still works OK and hopefully it will be charging correctly now, but I am not going to play around with any of the other myriad of settings it will let me code. There you are - Battery coding for a few pounds.