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Quick update, it's open! Thanks so much for the help. Going to slather it in lubricant. Seriously thanks, it was driving me crackers.

Microwave ¿???????????? Magnetic field perhaps My Scenic EV does play Jean Michel Jarre when travelling under 20 mph and he had an album called Magnetic Fields

Hi, I'm new member, saw some interesting techical DIY disusion so decidet to join. I'm froma Cratia own Skoda Octavia combi 2016, 1,6 disel, 194000 km, automatic transission.

@skoda998 - You need to answer the basic question first. Is this the standard, get you to the tyre depot spare or is it an actual 16 inch wheel and tyre? Either way it's not the same as your 17 inch wheels so it's not for driving miles at high speed. You might get an ABS warning but it's unlikely. Your car has differentials (at least one) and fully expects that the wheels will rotate at different speeds. As has been posted the wheel well limits your choice of spare wheel unless you are prepared to have the spare partially deflated to fit in.

Whilst I like the yellow the 5 comes in that matt grey in combination with those wheels and what looks like a body kit is hideous

Sounds like a perfectly normal cold start to me.

I've just bought a Skoda Octavia Combi Greenline 2014 1,6 tdi and I am hoping to find people/info who know more about this modification than I)

Only the one jack required, jack up rear remove rear wheel, fit spare to rear, then remove front wheel with puncture and replace with wheel removed from rear.

Was that Skoda Customer Services Contractor? Know nothing about cars. I do not know any petrol engine Skoda from the last 20 years no mater what engine that does not have the Service Schedule for spark plugs replaced at 4 years / 40,000 miles.

It attaches to the rails in the boot floor (not standard in every version of the S2 I think). I have it as well, but have only used it a few times in the last 14 years that I owned the car...

Just an update on my recent post regarding the sticking clutch pedal. The Skoda dealership found the clutch master cylinder to be leaking slightly and replaced it. I had also requested they service the air conditioning and on collecting the car was presented with a bill of £797.36. I drove out of the garage and 50 yards up the road, the clutch pedal stuck down again. I drove round the block, the pedal sticking twice and back into the garage where I left it with them to sort out. I picked the car up a few days later after the clutch slave cylinder had been replaced. Presented with a bill for £1299.00 a total of £2096.37 Not at all happy at the cost, but at least glad to have the car back after nearly 4 weeks without it.

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @caroline73

No not tried Perth or Dundee. I went back to Sterling because that where I got the first 280tsi from and that was a good experience. This time around also a good experience and 100% better and quite a bit cheaper than when I went to Abz to try to buy a new car - and left thinking I just wouldn’t bother! But going to Sterling to buy a new car is one thing (every 7 years or so) but not for a service!

Good. I would use & have done VW502 00 with TSI,s. But you do not need to if you have not got a 1.8 TSI with excessive oil use. The Long life oil is fine. Changing at low mileage if that is your annual miles. The AP-L was not correct though. But is 5w 30 FS III

My installer from Octopus installed the chargepoint without any questions even though I only had a 60A fuse. And I have quite a lot of air con units etc (though no electric showers). I managed to get UK Power Networks to upgrade my fuse to 100A which is probably superfluous as the derating feature is set to 60A (and I don't think I can change this myself) but glad I've got it anyway. I've only used the home charger around a dozen times since having the car (nearly 4 months now) as I charge at work (for free😁) mostly but useful to have around for top ups if necessary over a weekend etc. Have you ever lived in Germany?😅

Ideally not traditional WD40. It will work in the short term, but tends to attract dirt and will gum up in the longer term. It’s not really intended as a lubricant. I prefer using silicone spray (available under the WD40 brand). It is intended as a lubricant, and can be used on plastics and rubbers where you shouldn’t use traditional WD40.

For what it’s worth, they changed my Octavia due to a different issue and I feel the braking is far more consistent on the new car. Seems a lot smoother. I’m not sure I entirely buy the original dealer’s insistence that this was normal.

IS normal

Thanks Pete, You've given me the support I needed and have been very helpful. Have a great day 👍.

Another week another show @driverscollection show Sheffield

For my garage controller I bought a cigarette socket button. It fits into the cigarette 12v socket but it's powered by it's own battery. It's obviously not as integrated as using a free button on the car but cost €10 and it's pretty inconspicuous and works well There's a simple learning process with the controller and then it's good to go

in pictures -> https://www.drive2.com/l/646668144223459577/

Mine is the same as @JR RS on facelift with MIB3 and Columbus. Overlay comes up in the bottom corner when you press the seat button at which point you can jump to whichever setting you like (hot/cold/1/2/3/off). It’s an overlay so the screen behind stays on what it was.

Acknowledge basic setting

Just spoken to the dealer. They're going to change the Procyon wheels (which it does have) to either the Hydrus or Miran which will be on an ex demonstrator car that they're getting in shortly. Probably won't have any choice between the two, but I like both of them, and far better than the plastic ones. The dealer was fine, at the end of the day they want to sell me a car! He did say that Skoda didn't really start shipping SE L's without Procyon until July this year. So very few used ones available. Probably could have done with this information prior to ordering, but hey ho, it appears to OK now.

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Align the headlight tester. Turn on the vehicle ignition, switch on the lights, and start the basic adjustment. Adjust the headlights using the tester. Then, finish/stop the basic adjustment.

Yes, it was the configurator I was going by. Weirdly the configurotor for Karoq disappeared completely while I was searching. I thought that might mean the end of the line but it was while they chaged the wheels & removed Brilliant Silver as an option. If it helps, I paid £28.3k OTR for my unregistered SEL Edition with a spare wheel & variable boot floor. Although they did try to sell me £2k of indemnities for paint, wheels, tyres & other stuff.

Re Tradition. Staggered wheels are no unusual. #Tom Jones. Audi RS3 option wider front wheels / tyres. As far as a Spare/Emergency wheel, front wheel drive or rear wheel drive of a slightly different total circumference, tread type, compound, pressure, width, tyre pressure, maybe GREEN Unused. Slow down even if there is no WARNING Sticker. 50 MPG max. Reset the TPMS when you fit the spare, it may then not show any TPMS warning until you refit the correct size tyre. Front and rear or one new replaced tyres might be slightly different tread depth, circumference, total diameted. AWD, Part time AWD / 4x4 can be different. CC / ACC disabled etc.

just to introduce myself ...i just wanna to send you all a best driving experience and not so many faults 😊

Morning Sonny, Welcome to the forum!

Just a comment on the warranty question. My dealer has also offered a 3year extended warranty, including service and MOT tests, at a good price compared to the Skoda extended warranty. Downside, is servicing has to be done by dealer, for their offer (as it is them I have prepaid). I hope to move south, next year, so would have to bring car back to them. They are not part of a big chain, but a two branch independent dealer. Skoda warranty would allow service anywhere, as would buying dealer warranty from, say, Vertu, with branches all over. Have a good read of your dealer’s warranty conditions, before deciding, in any case.

If you can pull the rusty arm with a hole in it at the top of your second picture downwards it should open as I'm pretty certain that's where the cable end was attached after passing round the black plastic guide. Might be worth spraying a bit of lubricant in there first though as it's likely rusted stiff.

Morning, Welcome to the forum! Hopefully you find the site helpful along the way

My car has just two allowed options: 7,5J17 ET41 7J17 ET43 So that matches what your dealer told you. I also chose to go with 17" for winter tyres and the ET value narrowed it down a lot. My car has a 110kW engine if it's relevant.

@Philly112 Just to add that my SEL Edition with Procyon was built late March. When I started looking to buy in June, the web site was still listing Procyon wheels as the only standard option. So I'd be pretty confident that an April car will also have them.

Who are you hearing from? What do you think is contaminating, bacteria? Water / H20 might be an issue, condensation. Keep the tank full in winter, with winter spec petrol as sold from late October in the North of England. Best keep firing up the engine and not just running on electric. Water in oil and rust in the engine is more of a worry if you have a keeper. You show as being in the UK. E10 has been what 95 ron is for 4 years now. It does not all have 10% Bio Ethanol. It is a different formulation Winter and summer, less hygroscopic. Best not have 6 months unused petrol in your tank even if E5. E5 in the UK does not all have 5% Bio-ethanol in it. Regional dependent and if ESSO or from Greenergy, so Tesco Momentum 99, and which port / depot it comes from.

Thanks all, I bought a cheap scan tool from Amazon which identified a failed number 2 glow plug. I replaced, erased the code and now all is well with the world. :)

Surely it's a get you home spare wheel, you're not going to run it for long on that. My last car (a SEAT) had a different size spare to that fitted on the car, it was the standard spare supplied then. So as long as it fits the hub and goes round and round what's the problem?

As you can see in the chart below, there are no 65 aspect ratio tyres approved by Skoda for the Kamiq. A spare wheel doesn't need to be approved by Skoda...so you could use 195/65R16 6Jx16 ET35 for a spare wheel. Wheels approved by Skoda are listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity). For a 16" spare wheel to match a 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40, perhaps consider 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40. Doofy found that a 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 fitted in his Kamiq, so 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40 should also fit. Bear in mind that 205/60R16 is a cheaper and more common tyre size than both 195/60R16 and 195/65R16. Kamiq wheel sizes (approved by Skoda) 195/60R16 6Jx16 ET35 (winter tyre size, suitable for snow chains) 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET38 205/60R16 6Jx16 ET40 205/55R17 6.5Jx17 ET40 215/45R18 7Jx18 ET39 Skoda alloy rim accessory catalogue https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?q=%3ApriceAsc%3AcarType%3AKamiq%2B%25282019%252B%2529&text=# Outside diameter of tyres 195/60R16 640.4mm 195/65R16 659.9mm (non-standard) 205/55R16 631.9mm (non-standard) 205/60R16 652.4mm 205/55R17 657.3mm 215/45R18 650.7mm 225/45R18 659.7mm (non-standard) Doofy's Kamiq spare wheel thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517749-kamiq-spare-wheel/ Alcar 6664 6Jx16 ET35 5/100 57.1 steel rim (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1077003525243802724&rimCode=ALCAR6664 Alcar 6977 6Jx16 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (7.44kg) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1087670437300671588&rimCode=ALCAR6977

I keep my driving glasses in mine and the remote for the garage door. The shape is perfect.

Soaked it in plusgas for a couple of days, got it up to temp and it came out with no fuss at all thankfully! So all sorted.

OK, mine isn't a VRS but shares the same infotainment system; was a complete 'mare in the early days but has been rock solid for a couple of years since getting upgraded to v1941 by the dealer. Now it's out of warranty I'd have to pay for it to be done or follow the DIY method outlined on here - and accept the risk of bricking the car. The way I see it, the benefit is little, the risk likelihood is low, the risk impact is high - so why bother. v1941 works fine (for me). My car lacks a few toys compared to the VRS, such as matrix headlights & roadsign recognition which had issues in the early years of a mk4. ACC, SOS, blindspot detection, all work fine (now). As others have said, the mk4 is a very good, highly capable, and fuel efficient car; and in estate form a brilliant load lugger. Aim to buy new or an Approved Used model which should have all software updates applied before delivery.

Came from an Audi to the VRS and hands down the best car I've ever had Zero infotainment issues and I smile every time I get behind the wheel.

Not sure on yours but My octavia and also Seat altea has the amplifier as part of roof aerial base. Alasdair

When you say 'Fabia 1', do you mean a Mk1 Fabia or a Mk2 Fabia with trim level 'Fabia 1'? Skoda made things very confusing for owners of early mk2s, by calling different trim levels Fabia 1, 2, and 3. To know whether you have a late Mk1 or an early Mk2, just look at your VIN number. If the 7th and 8th characters are 6Y, you have a Mk1. If 5J then you have a Mk2. Or look at styling differences in photos e.g. here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%A0koda_Fabia

Fitted the cruise control stalk today. It now has the mode button to toggle between the original speed limiter and the new cruise control. Everything was very straight forward except for me discovering that after fitting the new switch I had no wipers! After a short expletive moment I realised it was because I had the bonnet open and the wipers won't work unless it's closed. 😅 I have it booked in to a local indie here in Cornwall for enabling the CC which I can't do with my VCDS as it needs a live link to Skoda. They were very helpful on the phone unlike the dealer. They have quoted £75 + VAT. I used a second hand switch (£69) from ebay which @lewiswal47 kindly sent me a link to. I was very impressed with the careful packaging and the new-like quality of the part. For info - I used part number 6C0953501P. I could have used (if one was available) 6C0 953 513 F even though mine does have the MFA display. This is because mine has steering wheel controls so doesn't need the extra button on the RH stalk. It may be that a switch with MFA controls on the RH stalk button wouldn't have conflicted with the steering wheel controls but I like it as close to original as possible. My only difference now on the new stalk is the small mode button under the LH stalk and the word 'Mode' above it. If I had used 6C0 953 513 F it would also have needed a new slip ring and a bracket. Important- It seems that there are differences internally in the way the main beam in the switches work. It is possible to open up the switch and swap parts but if you want to avoid this, a general rule of thumb seems to be to look at the left hand stalk for a tiny +1. If this exists, only use a switch with the same symbol present. If your current switch has no little +1 don't buy a switch with it unless you don't mind a bit of extra faffing.

If I had the funds & time I'd be tempted. Having said that, I'm running a 20 year old Subaru so need every penny for the next bill which inevitably will come at some point.😁

I'd always be kinder to the car, such as trundling around the block/leaving it running with the bonnet open for a few mins after a heavy drive. That said, I'd say this was probably more of a tuned 2.0+ thing, than a 1.4 or whatever. Of more interest is splashing through deep puddles with a hot turbo...

= Wide Open Throttle. Though wasn't a typo.

The old girl @project175kplus had a visit to @CCvaletinguk for a fresh coating from Performance People yeah it cost a lot but meh