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The odometer for miles covered is probably very accurate. The same source data will be used for both, but the speedo artificially calibrated to over-read, as required by law in some countries such as the UK.

I own a 2016 Fabia 1.2TSI SE L with the same headlight and discovered a hairline crack from top to bottom after investigating the source of excessive condensation inside the unit. Mammoth clear weatherproof tape stopped the leak and the car passed an MOT without any comment on that temporaryrepair. I am about to sell the Fabia and decided to replace the headlight before doing so. The part number is as above - 6V2.941.016.B - and is made by Hella. I have the old unit and can confirm that lens is not replaceable separately. I had the replacement done by an Independent VAG specialist. The part was sourced from TPS and cost £382 while labour including headlight realignment was £96.

Got my car back. Verdict was defective battery so replaced with new one

Measure it on a long journey and compare with what google maps says. Best if it's a straight line single road trip probably. Someone clever on here pointed out to me that just because the same data (from ABS module) is used for speed and distance, they don't both have to be fudged in the same way.

Cheers all - I shall keep you all updated 👍

Great that they were stupid enough to put it in print. Here's hoping for a quick and favourable resolution for you. I suspect they will have no option but to fold immediately the MO gets involved. This will be hugely more damaging to them than a slightly luke-warm review!

Hi Warrior193 and Grady, I can’t provide a photo of the little battery symbol as it’s not there anymore! It definitely wasn’t a red cross. I’m certain now that it must have been a battery warning for my iPhone. Prior to noticing the battery symbol, I’d connected the phone for navigation via Apple Car Play but when I went to charge the phone overnight, I noticed that the battery was at its absolute minimum; I’d forgotten to plug the phone into the car’s usb socket! The following morning, with the iPhone’s fully charged, plugged in, and connected to Apple Car Play, no red battery warning symbol! Problem solved. As I said earlier, it would be good if SKODA mentioned these smaller details in the car’s manual. Thanks again for the advice and suggestions.

Hi all. Thanks for feedback. To close this off just a note to say that a local garage sourced an after market unit and replaced. To my untrained eye i cant tell the difference to the other one. Cost all in was €500. Over half the cost quoted by the main dealer. Happy to have it sorted before the rain came!

Well that is an absolute crock of shi**. They cannot say they will only rectify an issue on the basis that you have to give them a 5 star rating. And then actually withhold fixing it because you gave them 4. The MO should have great fun with that!

Was this a Skoda Used Approved vehicle? Are you still within the rejection window? - I know what I'd do! Otherwise, quote the CRA to them. Once rectified or resolved, name & shame.

Hello This is a 2020 plate, so I agree, fair wear and tear is a ludicrous answer. Obviously standards have dropped since I bought my last Skoda (now on my fifth car) as the air con ran out of gas after three weeks as well - when I raised this with them they said that isn’t covered under the ‘multi-point vehicle inspection’. As I say, interesting to note that they no longer mention the 4-star review, just prefer to focus on the fact that the door trim isn’t visible (it’s the drivers door, so visible every time you get in the car !) and it doesn’t affect the vehicle’s functionality. I prefer to focus on the consumer rights act, which states that a defect present at point of sale must be rectified (and is not decided on consumer reviews)

I've never owned or even driven a VW 1.0mpi but I have great respect for it from some of the consumption claims in the Briskoda Citigo section. The power figure of 75ps at 6200 rpm is respectable although not unremarkable as is the torque figure of 95Nm but the kicker is that maximum torque is achieved at a comparatively low 3000 rpm and I think that is almost unique for its size and type. Not many engines, regardless of size, could match that and small capacity engines usually produce their max torque at 4000+ rpm, like my 22yo 1.3L Toyota requires 4400 rpm. Having extoled its virtues, it is still only a normally aspirated 1 litre engine and you can't expect too much of it. I can't find much on the web about performance of the 1.0mpi but there were figures that said acceleration from 80 to 120 kph was 31 seconds in 5th gear and 20 seconds in 4th gear. To me that suggests the manufacturer's gearing is (not surprisingly) about optimal and that a longer top gear is likely to worsen performance and consumption. I have driven a more powerful 1.0tsi Fabia manual and was extremely impressed by consumption and ability to cruise economically at highway speeds, with a load, at sub 3k rpm. That would be my choice if looking for a better balance than you currently have. Like others, I see little point in all the work and expense involved for an extra gear and a potentially less satisfying car.

Mine is a 2012 pre-facelift estate (“combi”). Everything in this post is applicable to a 2008-13 pre-facelift car, and I’m not sure about differences with hatchbacks. When replacing with retrofit LEDs, even ones that claim to be “canbus compatible”, some bulbs work and others don’t. It’s trial and error to find ones that work. The DRLs definitely do generate bulb failure warnings with some LEDs, but not with others. Likewise with rear indicators and reversing lights. I have fitted “Antemoon” LEDs (link below) for DRLs and they work fine with no bulb faults. The only peculiarity is that they flash three times, left then right, when you turn the ignition on. I suspect this is simply the test pulses that the car sends to see if the bulbs are working, and the pulses are normally too short for a halogen bulb to actually light up, but LEDs do because their response time is quicker. Antemoon P21W for DRLs: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DP4PYW2K?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1 I have tried replacing the front fogs (H8 if I remember correctly), but they don’t work because when turning left or right the car ramps the brightness up and down, and the LEDs aren’t dimmable so don’t respond properly. I’ve also replaced rear indicators. This took a bit of trial and error because some caused a bulb fault, and others were simply too bright and would dazzle following drivers at night. I settled on the following, which work and are a sensible brightness: Argo PY21W for rear indicators: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374844629873?var=643919891661 Note that PY21W filament bulbs do not fit for the rear indicators because the bulb glass physically won’t go through the hole in the light fitting. For conventional bulbs on a pre-facelift you need RY10W, but PY21W LEDs generally do fit. And I’ve done the reversing lights. These are now very white and fairly bright (but not enough to blind anybody). No faults with these particular bulbs. Antemoon W16W for reverse lights: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0F5B4LK16?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title I’m not bothering to try the brake lights or the rear fogs, because the Superb mk2 is very unusual in using single-filament bulbs for both of these and they both do double-duty as tail lights as well. Most cars I’ve owned use dual-filament bulbs for this purpose, but the Superb must be switching the voltage to drive the bulbs at different brightness - which doesn’t generally work with LEDs. Also, matching the brightness with the single tail-lights bulbs will be difficult without it looking like your brake lights are permanently on. I am currently testing a pair of H3 which my car uses as the auxiliary full-beam halogen lights (in addition to the bi-xenons). This pair were the only ones I could find that didn’t have a ridiculously big base, which I suspect wouldn’t fit in the housing. HOWEVER, I have had intermittent bulb faults from one of the bulbs, so I can’t be sure about them yet. Further testing required. Katur H3 bulbs for halogen full-beam (on car with bi-xenons). Note I’m not 100% sure about these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CB5YK3MW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 It’s worth bearing in mind that LED retrofit headlights and full-beams are an MOT failure if the tester can see that you’ve fitted an LED into a reflector lens, so if I do keep these I’ll have to swap them back for the test. The last thing on my list are the front indicators. On my pre-facelift these are a very unusual bulb - PH24WY, and they look a bit of a pig to get access to. I’ve only found one LED retrofit bulb, and haven’t tried it yet. But these do specifically mention 2008-13 pre-facelift Superb, so I’m hopeful. PH24WY for front indicators (not yet tried): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304561517995 And the above are slightly cheaper direct from the Car Mod Shop web site.

You need Tool for Flash Dataset. Easy Job, 5min

This. I’d be getting it rectified with MO involved and then changing the review to 1 star and outlining in the review about the blackmail used to get 5 star ratings from customers..

Pretty straightforward - they are kind of plugged in if I remember correctly, just slowly wiggle them out. There probably will be videos of that as well. Try button fixing videos and they'll disassemble them there.

Hi Lee, Yes, it did. It is literally a five minute job.

and the winner is....... Yup, they were very apologetic and embarrassed. A cable behind the door needed to be reconnected.

It will not work, you're wasting your time. Install B, parameterise and code to suit your vehicle. We can do this remotely if needed

Viewing an unprepared base model was probably the wrong thing to do when you are looking at the top spec L&K. That's always been the same, even on the Mk3. It's surprising what a bit of trim, different wheels and tyres and a slightly different stance can do. SE Tech L&K Those into motoring and cars don't usually have an issue with Skoda. They usually laugh at JLR owners. 😄 I've had a few JLR products. My last one was a nightmare, never again.

Hi all, nice to become a member here. I bought my first Skoda in 2017, a Superb 2011 2.0 TDI Elegance from my father. I liked it a lot but after only like a year I found some rust on one of the rear edges around the wheel arch. I continued to drive it anyway and the rust slowly spread like a disease. Still I liked the car. It had a nice equipment level I appreciated a lot. It was also very spacious. This year 2025 I finally made the decision to sell it after being driven 174000 km in total distance. In April I finally bought a little smaller 2023 Skoda Octavia 1.4 TSI iV PHEV that is FANTASTIC! I appreciate a lot to at least be able to drive around where I live in Sweden on battery. Best regards / Martin

Yeah yeah, I drove it max 7000km/year only. I did not want to harm the car on shorter drives so I run the short distances with running backpack instead 🎒 🤣 I’m a passionate runner. This totally changed now with a PHEV 😂 Thanks, rust is horrible and also made me really look around for other manufacturers but I like Skoda too much. I mean, with the help of VAG the brand has been lifted a lot! I think I simply was unlucky with my not so superb Superb 😊 Thanks! I really hope my Octavia NX5 will 🥰

The turn signals work, the flasher doesn't work.

I have miss Unterstand, my Information is wrong

Good evening @Wirran and welcome to Briskoda

All I know is that it can be coded via the BCM 09. It would also be new to me that this function for the blinker is supposed to be available in the MIB. And I've compared all the codes with the facelift and pre-facelift versions.

Step one fix - Purchase one can of electrical contact spray cleaner. Engine off key out Using the straw, get a good shot of the contact cleaner in under the steering column cover by the stalk (take it off if you can, I’m not familiar with the cover set up on your column) and get as much into the switch area as you can. Work the stalk around for a few mins to get the gunk and corrosion cleared then let it dry off a few mins. See if that helps. I had a similar on my old mk1 and it solved it.

It is an approved vehicle yes, but no longer in the rejection window (been constantly backwards and forwards with Skoda customer services, who quite frankly are useless and today suggested we contact the motor ombudsman!) Have also quoted CRA to them, which they have ignored. Had already contacted the MO, who have already agreed to investigate this matter further. And yes, massively intend to name and shame… Copy of email from sales exec at the dealership below…. Good afternoon, John, Thanks for your email and sorry for the late reply but I have been out of the office, so hopefully you got my "out of office" Regarding the door seal, I am now in a difficult position. When you left, we (as a dealer) agreed to replace the door seal for you in return for the 5 star "exit" survey from Skoda. This is something I mentioned and asked for on handover anyway regardless of the door seal. I have to say that when the 4-star rating came in I was disappointed, and then had to explain myself in our morning meeting to the management team as to "why" The management are now not willing to replace the door seal, as the "bad" survey cost the dealership money etc so my hands are now tied so to speak. I appreciate that this is not the news you want to hear, however you will have to take this up with the sales manager, David M or the business manager, Liam T, to see if they are willing to resolve the matter. Davids's email is *redacted Liam's email is *redacted Kindest regards

Skoda like other car manufactures will try & get out of anything they can, i was told the module would take between 4to6 weeks to get in 2 days later i received a phone call letting me know the part was in whether this needs an update still having same problem. This was going in for service last week, was too early as no service needed, told the service same issues & the unit felt like second hand but told they only use new. Service is at end of year, will ask for diagnostics on electrics. Hope Rob you have more luck. Perhaps getting in touch directly with Skoda through one of the media channels they might just get their fingers out as nobody likes bad reviews.

Hi Jack, Welcome to Briskoda, firstly. Then.. what age is the Kamiq you bought? I didn’t think it even existed long enough for this kinda thing to be “fair wear and tear”. Also sounds like they taken exception to your non 5 star review prior to sorting the issue which is quite a dirty thing to do to a customer..

Number 3 does have a pressure sensor. As I don't know how it works I thought best to leave it to the experts. It started rough again this morning but sorted itself out after a few miles.

Not for now. I have to replace the versions H radars by versions B (ordered but not receive) For the Xmass Tree, I had this during my first attemp and it's just because the CAN wire was inverted (on my car, the databus for BSM is the Extended canbus) You can find the wiring for your Karoq easilly and check with the AliExpress wiring

Yes, I have made by myself the retrofit. On my Kamiq, only 2 wires go to the BCM (for Canbus). CAN-L is connected to T73b pin 41 and CAN-H is connected to T73b pin 40. I don't know if it's same for the Karoq 2022. Edit: Not at all the same wiring. (You have my schema for wiring just somes messages above if you want.) I can't answer you about the trailer assist because I don't have the trailer hitch

Hi, I do not have my dongle connected, but I think it was like this or similar: Select 4B Select Basic Settings Select Basic headlamp setting Press [Go!] - or whatever OBDeleven uses - to activate the Basic Setting.

Good morning warrior193, thank you ,i have now spoken to the selling garage and they are going to change the gear box oil so i hope all will be well for a couple of years 🙏

@travs @OccyVRS My Skoda is the 280. I just took my car to the garage and said do a res delete. i have no regrets. has a nice grunt on the gear changes.WhatsApp Video 2025-10-08 at 08.37.23.mp4

Same like me version B

All mk3 Superbs r made in Czech Republic. Unless ur in China, India or Russia - they supply/build their own local only version.

It doesn't give you accurate result if the car isn't recording all of the miles it's driven!!!

That looks really nice! Hertz pro stuff is good, I think they cut corners for the Uno range though. I've got a JVC m745dbt, I've had it a good few years and it's come with me through several cars now. I love the fact it's a shallow profile so there's always loads of room behind to get the wiring tidy. I've got a Vibe powerbox with a built in DSP running the front speakers and a Audio Control Epic 1000 running two 12s in the boot. Still working my way through tuning it properly with REW, and I need to line the boot with deadmat when the weather improves, but I'm getting there!

Great post!

Yes

Your Karoq. You dont have unece

That's wha the dealer ship say they are going to do. There are only two options. Either I just got a bad battery from new or there is something wrong with the charging system.

Hi Warrior193 Thanks for your reply. I will have to get it coded at a garage, i dont have whats needed. The only message i get is the low battery warning on the display. I checked the alternator output and it was just over 14v. Thanks for your advice, much appreciated.

Bumper off, I'm afraid.

Well as promised, feedback on the new screen digitiser and…………its worked🙂 So anyone reading this thread in the future that has the symptoms of the screen freezing occasionally or in my case every other start up, then a £25 digitiser from ebay and a bit of diy is the solution. Thanks again to all the folk who chipped in with advice. What a great forum for a brilliant little car Steve

Check the dash display for a door open icon every time you open the driver's door. If it doesn't display then check for a broken wire(s) in the cable trunk from the door frame to the driver's door. A broken wire (intermittent) here doesn't answer all your points but does answer the beeps and alarm issues.

I always reset the trip computer and manually check my MPG at every fill up Divide mileage by litres, times result by 4.546 (No. of litres per gallon (UK)). This shows you the actual MPG. 👍 Computers? We don. need no steenkin' computers ....

The Icelandic million kilometer Octavia Škoda StoryboardThe Immortal Octavia: See What It Looks Like After One Mi...Meet Jómundur Ólason, an Icelandic sheep farmer who drove his first-generation Škoda Octavia over one million kilometres. How did he achieve such a milestone, and what advice does he have for those...