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Welcome, the language of this forum is English - please post only in English. Google Translate says.... I have a 2023 Octavia 4, petrol, 1.5L 150 hp, Business trim. During an update in early November, the central screen went off, the radio stopped working, the warning lights stayed on, and the reversing sensors stopped working... Even disconnecting and reconnecting the battery makes the screen come back on for a few minutes but then go off again...

Bloody apps not talking again. As the Mrs says, “I’m starting to hate this car, I just want it to work”. Needing an app and the internet to make essentials work is always a stupid idea.

Porsche taycan as a company car Example calculation for a £94,945 Porsche Macan Electric Annual taxable benefit: £94,945 (P11D value) x 3% (BIK rate) = £2,848.35 For a 20% taxpayer: £2,848.35 x 20% = £569.67 per year or approximately £47.47 per month For a 40% taxpayer: £2,848.35 x 40% = £1,139.34 per year or approximately £94.95 per month thanks to our wonderful Rachel

The Treasury or Staff working for Rachel Reeves MP & Chancellor are apparently leaking or releasing stories about tomorrows Budget & help for the Motor Industry, grants, ev chargers etc. As i just watched on the BBC. Surely these leaks or flying of kites can affect the Money Markets. No details, but just a nod and a wink to a blind salesman. Company car drivers.

I understand why you don’t want full wheel covers, but, typically black steel wheels have only been given a quick thin cover of paint and will start to look nasty very quickly in winter - if they had been stripped back and repainted “properly” they might survive better. I just bought a used set that didn’t look too bad for my wife’s 2002 VW Polo, actually bought a set of used Golf ones and cut off the “inner” locking elements leaving just the bits out at the rim to keep them on, that worked for the remaining 8 years that she had that car. Next time round with a new 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I just bought a set of slightly used 15” VW Polo alloys from eBay in Germany, 10 years on, they should get refurbished after this winter, but still looking almost okay.

As has been said, read the small print carefully. That extra "discount" is just part of the commission for selling this sort of product. For me it makes them worthless. Alloy repairs are not that expensive and it's good learning for a child to have to pay back this sort of debt.

Lol now there seemed to be an app update, now the Ohme charger and the car are all out of whack. Car says it has 61% the Ohme says it has 16%. [Edit] unpaired and repaired and that has solved this issue. Whomever signs off the software for these needs beaten with hosepipes for a few hours

I am well aware of that but we pay wind and solar farms at times for energy wasted, if the companies stored it we could actually pay them when it's needed. When we don't need gas the price will still be set by the most expensive input and we will continue pay for waste. They will still make Billions

@lol-lol UK electricity prices are not going up BIG TIME in 35 days. Ofgem says there will be a small monthly increase of 28 pence on the price of energy for a typical household who use electricity and gas and pay by direct debit compared to the level between January and March 2025 it is 1% or £20 higher. It is a 0.2% increase in the current cap.

The price of UK electricity is not linked to renewables, that's the root cause of our price problem. It is linked to fossil fuel: https://www.livecharts.co.uk/MarketCharts/ngas.php https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c2lplg7d9ewo See that price cap spike at Q2 and it's now going up again together with gas price? See the extremely clear correlation? Would be interesting to see what percentage of those goes to fossil fuel companies.

Electricity has always been a problem in the past because they didn't have the technology to store it, now they do so it's pure profiteering and nothing else.

Oh yes we need to wack those profiteer oil and gas companies supplying the peaker electricity as they are making a killing, far more the the suppliers who pass on those costs. UK needs to pay properly for that very expensive 4pm to 8 pm electricity. £1 per kwh or whatever the cost really is, i have heard it can be as high as £5 per kwh true cost at times. We get cheap power at night but the other side of the coin is nany using power at tea time when actual cost can be 2, 4, 6,8 times and more than the 28p or so people are paying for lecky.

The total of over £125 billion in profits made by energy giants from their UK operations since 2020 equates to approximately £878 per household per year.

Not related. Prices going up loads not due to renewable, but due to the nuclear program, debt relief to those who cannot pay etc. Renewable prices, particularly solar, has been dropping like a stone. UK is now looking at sourcing cheaper but bigger Chinese wind turbines, 1000 feet plus in size, 20, 30, 35 MW which produce power at a lower pence per kwh than the current crop of 15 MW turbines. It is the peg of electricity prices to gas and then all these add ons for the likes of Sizewell C and debt relief. Martin Lewis and Greg Jackson just did a good session on this on MSE show.

Good to know I'm not alone! I never got round to further investigations today because a) SWMBO had me on full domestic chores and b) it was bloody cold

With Ohme, can you revert back to timed charging 23:30-5:30 and not use VW app? Probably best keep everything linked if possible. Only use IOG smart charging on days if it's not working it's no big deal. With my Indra charge point, IOG only talks to Indra. No car app involvement. I can put charge point into dumb mode (boost mode: always dispensing). Then set schedule in any of the cars, offline from everything else if needed.

And I'll keep saying it as long as you keep posting those instructions, to avoid the understandable source of potential confusion.

That car is not made any more. It was discontinued between when I ordered and delivery. Soon no ICE cars will be sold new. I keep my cars a long time. The oldest one in my fleet at the minute, I bought new in 2009. So presently 16 years old and at 139K miles. Plan to keep my 2023 car that long as well. So for me, YES. Thanks. AG Falco

Not forgetting the important "or" in the left hand column. Never did say suck oil out and remove drain plug.

The same source as those YT pundits got their info from, no doubt.

Hi, water leak from seam in firewall just behind brake pedal, fed a 10 foot cable in the gap to see where it came out below car or in engine bay , no luck, anyone any ideas on where the water is coming from and how to plug it from the outside, it is not water getting by the doors or leaking from the heater, scuttle is clear of debris and drainage holes are clear, liners were taken off last year and silt was removed, I don’t want to seal it from the inside of the car, thanks in advance, Conor, 2003 mk 1 Octavia 1.4 16v, 292000 miles, still going strong.

My heart bleeds for you having to sometimes spend on public charging when just managing to get buy with all your normal cheap energy costs. Are there no Tesla Superchargers about?

Got to travel to Bournemouth from Worcester so outside my there and back range in the Scenic so need to charge in Dorset or Wiltshire which are not great for charging. Always please that I can generally find a charger I can use my Octopus Electroverse card, get a bit of a discount and it goes against my house energy bill so may not feel or see the hit if I am in credit and can manage that and of course one can be super accurate on how much energy to draw from the public charger to get me home and then fill up with the cheap lecky.

£95.98 a year subscription 😂😂. Travel outside your EV home charging range, prepare to be shafted or preplan carefully.

Our Skoda Superb Combi PHEV was: 28 october Ordered 5 december forecasted production 26 december forecasted delivery So looking at rougly 8 weeks, not too bad.

There are higher performance VW Group engines, TSI & TDI and from 2018-2025 and the Recommended oil for these is 0w 30 FS III. VW504 00 / 507 00........................ Changing oil as often as fixed regime or sooner no needed for the Long Life oil though with a 1.0 TSI even the newest ones.

I will certainly wait another 10 months and 1 more oil change until the car is out of warranty. Until then i will stick with Castrol LL-IV 0w-20 that local Skoda dealers use (at least that they are writing at the invoice…). By the end of this period the Fabia from new will have total of 4 oil changes and about 35-38.000 km covered with the recommended 0w-20. But right after warranty expires and as mileage goes up i strongly believe i must change into something slight more viscous for better long term protection. I didn't know that there was a 0w-30 oil meeting VW 504 specifications. I thought there was only 5w-30. Been the case, 0w-30 sounds to me like a good alternative. As you mentioned i am serious thinking even to a C3 5w-40 which i was using for 6-7 years in my previous Fiat T-Jet with great results…

It is VWFS.

It could also be a connector or wiring fault in the sensor circuit.

I dod not hear what battery size it was, presuming 30 khw and tgat battery which is air cooled and no active cooling system has gained a reputation of being susceptible of losing capacity due to overheating, rapidgating so just was pleased to hear a battery reckoned to be one of the weakest out there had survived so many charging connections and still ran even jf yhe capacity was done by a quarter or a third or so. Think Modern Hero did get rid of it after a while and the way the vans battery just dropped like a stone in tge final quarter of the range was frustrating and one would rather see less range at the upper SoC than have it fade too quickly in the lower SoC part. Good to see that all car traction batteries are liquid cooled now as air cooled traction batteries can be a pain. The Renault Zoe will hardly charge at all if the ambient temp is well in to the 40s degree C. Hope Nissan gets lots of sales for the LEAF, Micra, Ariya etc for the sake of Nissan in the NE of England. Good to see the new LEAF get the full £3750 EV grant.

Driveshaft coupling needs inspected closely.

That might have something to do with it - if the pump hasn't been pulled and had the gauze cleaned it's almost certainly covered in rubbish by now. It's not part of the normal Skoda service routine but it's a necessary job that most specialists would do as a matter of course.

^^^ faulty power supply or ground (earth) connection is a strong possibility - another possibility is a fault with the PCM as opposed to the ECU/ECM. Reflashing the PCM is a suggestion I have seen from a little online research, but I'd suggest checking all control unit connections first.

I would suggest checking out the battery health would be a good idea for the first task. If it’s still the original, then consider replacing especially as colder weather is a killer for old batteries. My Yeti exhibited all sorts of odd electrical behaviour in the weeks running up to battery going altogether.

Location has Brecon. But as always great that you make the offer. If it was Northampton I would offer even without owning the mighty VCDS machine.

I'm only a few miles from Ladybower and Howden and it's tanking it down again so fingers crossed eh? Attached is one taken there from earlier this year... The water should be visible in the background but it was too low given the drought

Yes, IMO, definitely. If you publish your general area, someone might have VCDS and do it for you. A independen garage might do it for ~ £30? but still worth it, again, IMO.

Michelin CrossClimate 3,s proving to be good on Snow & Icy Snow, cold and wet roads. The car is OK as well, getting 2.4-3.1 miles a kWh at below freezing temps and heating on.

Following up to my own post, a few hours after updating to 0332 I was offered another OTA update. The description suggested that it was fairly minor, but after letting it run for several hours I started the car and found that the maps were now on 25.8. All is now well, why a supposed main dealer couldn't have done that I have no idea...

Spacers make a big difference mate. I run 12mm front and back.. H&R ones but I’m also lowered on H&R.

As always it's each to there own, to do as you please or suits you. Unless I was doing 18-20,000 miles in 12 months or under I would have the oil changed every 12 months anyway, just ask or tell the Dealership to do that, they ain't gonna turn the money down, as for warranties AFAIK in Europe the work don't have to be done at an official Dealership as long as the work done and parts and materials used are good enough. As for hot oil, note I put warm (hot), whoever is doing the work is responsible for Health & Safety, theirs and other peoples, over the decades I've done a few warm (hot) drain oil changes on engines, gearboxes and rear diffs and despite not being mechanical and a bit clumsy I've never had any trouble with the oil being warm (hot) - other than some always missing the bowl(s) and going on the ground, we don't all have lifts or pits or even any sort of shelter from the elements when it's too hot, too cold, too wet too windy, oh, the joys. ☹️ Farting about with cars is always a dirty, messy business, particularly petrol and worse still diesel engines but you do what you can to avoid oil, grease, rubber, dust, dirt and debris as much as you can getting on you and your clothes. Professionals are often more interested in speed of the job, and getting on to the next job, than taking time, being thorough (and giving a **** for many of them in my experience). Professional just means you're doing it as paid work not necessarily that you are any good at the job. I only started doing work on my cars because I was fed up or sorting and redoing properly work I'd already paid professionals to do, often I would do a better job not because I was better but because I cared about the quality of the work and outcome and didn't give myself time pressures. Is it worth worrying about any sort of real longevity on a 2023 car to make it worthwhile to worry about a bit of extra effort with the engine oil and just go with what many (most?) others do and just meet the minimum requirements for warranty then get the least expensive oil for whenever you feel the need for an engine oil change.

I have a Skoda fabia 2019 1l, It’s been in and out of a Skoda specialist garage for the last few months & the fault is still occurring, everyone’s a bit lost with what to do. The fault: stabilisation control error, stop/start unavailable, driver assist unavailable, car cuts out while driving and restarts, mostly automatically but recently needed starting with the key more. It’s impossible and scary to drive. In trying to fix this, the car has had 2 refurbed ecu’s, fuse box/holder, new battery, idled for 5 hours in the workshop, did 2 long drives and didn’t cut out, yet a mile down the road it kicked off again. The garage, grateful for them trying everything above so far. It’s out of warranty, i originally took it to Marshalls Skoda who diagnosed it needed a new ecu at a cost of £2.5k, so I obvs went elsewhere. Should we go to Skoda again and see what they say now? Would they know what to do or would it be a repeat of the current situation with a different garage? I’m wondering if anyone has seen this before and can advise anything that hasn’t been tried yet?