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Update, good news! Managed to remove the sun visor & handle to pry the headlining down just enough to get to the tube. The pipe was clogged almost all the way down. Shoved some locking wire down it, then pumped some warm water through it and got it cleared. Got my hands on a wet vac and managed to remove nearly 3L of water from the carpets! I had to cut out the yellow foam underneath the pedals as that was absolutely sodden, and it unfortunately just disintegrated in the process so i'll need to DIY something here before putting the carpet back in. The thick padding material underneath the carpets i've ran through the dryer a couple times and that seems to be nice n dry now. Car is currently sat with an electric heater in it and the drivers carpet pinned up to dry the rest out. I'm going to repeat the same process for the drain on the passenger side later today as a precaution, though luckily that one hasn't leaked yet. Thank god I caught this reasonably early!

You could use some carpet unerlay. Just got carpets fitted and they used 10mm polyeurothane foam underlay. If you have any carpet shops about the fitters will have offcuts they are dumping. Glad you got to the problem fairly easily and hope car dries out.

No it doesn't override type approval but they have, through testing, obtained specific ECE approval that means the retrofit LEDs can legally be fitted, as they have been tested and found to be equivalent to type approved bulbs, but only in certain countries and vehicles. The UK isn't one of those countries but Ireland is. Once fitted there are specific documents that need to be printed off and sticker applied to the headlight to confirm the ECE approval if and when the vehicle is inspected. I've been watching this develop for a few years now hoping the UK would be on the list of countries but as it's no longer in the EU it isn't so they remain non street legal here

Hyper Green vRS on 21’s you say?

Maybe have lower priced Skoda & Seat models with more KISS stuff & keep the Style over Function for VW & Audi.

Yeah well, when you can't sort your software go back to old school manual tech that people want and is intuitive.

Hello, I activated Smart Link on my swing 3 radio, at Skoda Octavia mk3 MY 2018, so I want to share with everyone how it can be done. DISCLAIMER: You do it at your rensponsability, is not easy to do, and you can mess things out, possible brick you device. Do it only if you have expereince in this kind of activity. Physical tools needed: Tool for removing radio 4 pieces, just google "VAG radio removal tool", cost about 1€. CH341A Mini Programmer, cost about 10€. PC/Laptop Philips screwdriver Software needed (all software in attachment): CH341A driver NeoProgrammer Python (In windows 11, open start menu, type cmd, press enter, type Python, press enter. Microsoft store will open with Python 3.13, click on "Get" and wait to install complete.) Python script for activating CarLink (MEN2SwingPatch.py) Install CH341A driver and NeoProgrammer, make sure python is installed, put MEN2SwingPatch.py script at some accessible location (for example at root D:\). Firstly, you need to remove radio from car, its pretty simple, just insert four "keys" and pull the radio out. Then remove 6 screws from the top and 2 from the bottom, split display from the unit, and pull the top cover to expose top of the PCB. I removed PCB fully from the case to check is there present video chip for reversing camera (unfortunately not), but you don't have to do that. After top cover is removed, and PCB is accessible, you have to find ST 95256 R EEPROM. Put clamp from the CH341A on the EEPROM chip, make sure red cable (clamp) is on the pin 1 (EEPROM). Clamp connector insert in appropriate adapter, and adapter insert in CH341A in part intended for 25XX, make sure red cable facing toward lever. Plug CH341A in computer USB port. All this can be sawn in picture named EEPROM 2. Run NeoProgrammer.exe, go to Hardware tab, select "CH341 Black". Next go to IC>Search>type 95256>select M95256R> click on Read IC. This is the tricky part, if you get all blank result it means that clamp on the eeprom not have a good grip, try to move clamp left-right, take it off and put on again. After 5-6 times of re adjusting clamp I finally got the eeprom content. Save it on pc (for example at root D:\ as 1.bin). Read IC couple more times to be sure that you have good conection to the eeprom chip (if you want to take extra check, you can compare couple .bin with Notepad++ to be sure that you have identical read every time, this is good sign that all is correct). Make sure you dont move accidentaly clamp or PCB. Click on start, type cmd, press enter, navigate to D:\ (place where you saved EEPROM dump and script), type python men2swingpatch.py 1.bin, press enter. If everything is correct you should get printed on display TRAIN:xxx, FAZIT: xxx (see picture "script"), and now you have file named 1.bin_patched.bin. This new file we now need to write back to the eeprom. Get back to the NeoProgrammer, click on File>Open and find 1.bin_patched.bin at D:\, click on Write IC. After writing you can read it again and compare to patched bin, just to be sure its written correct. Now you can disconnect clamp, assemble unit and put it back in the car. Enjoy in your unlocked Smart Link. DOWNLOAD needed software

Hi there, I've just joined, as you can see. I bought my Skoda Yeti Outdoor 2.0 TDI 4x4 DSG about 18 months ago, and it's a little belter, with just over 50k on the clock. All is well at the moment. I had a problem with the Bolero radio experiencing bad reception, but I solved this by replacing the roof Ariel with a shark fin bought off eBay, and the reception is perfect now. I enjoy reading the technical posts, and picking up bits of useful information. That's all for now, but I'm sure that I will be posting in the future if I find out anything useful to share. Thanks Ravo.

2019 Superb mk3 2.0 diesel. In March 2025 a steady orange engine light appeared appeared on the dash, and the car went permanently into limp mode. I contacted Caffyns Skoda Dealer in Tunbridge Wells on Monday 16 March 2025 for advice. Was the car safe to drive for us? For other road users? For the car? I was told I could bring the car into them for checking on the 29th. But not March. April!! I was not impressed with this lack of service. I instead arranged to take it to a local garage near Matfield in East Sussex on Wednesday 18 March 2025. In just a few minutes the mechanic there read the electronic diagnostics and advised it was a problem with the Adblue sensor no longer working. He later phoned me and said that as the sensor is inside the sealed adblue tank it requires a complete replacement of the tank in order to fit a new sensor! I was not happy about this news as costs around £600 to fit/replace. For the moment I have had the adblue system 'mapped-out' (cost £300) so the car no longer looks for a working adblue sensor and all is driving quite normally. The cost of car assemblies at times seems unreasonable. Thermostat valve replacement on the cooling system requires a complete new water pump (see posting elsewhere). Adblue sensor requires a complete new tank. A bulb goes in a headlamp and suddenly you have to buy a complete headlamp assembly costing hundreds, rather then a £15 bulb. As I am a private buyer I think manufacturers should be more careful about making vehicles financially sustainable in the long-term.

Easily done, you guys with your flash modern cars! 🤣😂

Cheers Lee, appreciate the idea. Might try encouraging the main driver to eat more carrots for now. 😁

The "one bolt getting blocked by the engine" is only relevant for one engine type - and it is not the EA211 versions from my experience, that did concern me when before I started working on these lower TCAs.

If my eyes don't deceive me, there only appear to be H4 options for Roomster. Ours has H7 for dipped beam and separate H7s for main beam. ☹️

Pages 49 & 50 of the PDF 20251201_NIGHT_BREAKER_LED_COMPATIBILITY_LIST_CARS_CAMPERS_SPECIAL_VEHICLES_EN.pdf

Yeah Pete, same on our MkII Fabia. Worst idea ever to fit halogens in projectors. I got around it by fitting a HID kit. World of difference and literally it was a day and night difference. I don't know current legality of HID kits but the tester can't touch them IIRC. Hide the ballasts out of sight if possible. The only other option back then was getting reflector units but I think the MkII Fabia and Roomster are now able to be fitted with Osram LED's. Gimme 5 minutes and I'll dig out the Osram bumph 👍

If the additional work to an Oil & Inspection service at 43,559 miles is a Cabin / Pollen filter likely the Spark Plugs were not changed. They are additional work at it is a Full Service History, so should say what is done. Was the Brake fluid changed at 3 years or even @ 4 years?

"Likely" is open to interpretation! Especially if the dealer hasn't listed them... 😊 Personally, I would check the air filter and clean/replace as necessary and change the plugs so that you know they are good. I would recommend NGK.

They do make cars financially sustainable, but for them not us

46k miles with full Skoda service history up to when I bought it at 44k. I don't think the plugs have been changed but would need to double check.

The sat nav thinking you are in Germany is normally due to water ingrees into the aerial base.

I think an investment into that £2.80 amazon brush that clears out the drain is probably worth it in that case. Well done for getting it cleared.

For MK3.5 cars, it should be fine. Try not to get the highest output; try to use proper bulbs from Osram or Philips. Use a bulb with a colour temperature of 5500k. You might need to manually wind down the beam to its lowest level and beware that (at least in the MK3 halogen lights, they can be overwhelmed by extremely bright lights).

All working now, thanks.

Hello all. As promised some pics of my "bespoke" mk 4 superb towbar hole cover. Apologies for the quality of some of the under vehicle shots, so you may have to zoom in to see them clearly. As previously stated I used the black plastic lid from a storage container, and the white flexible tabs (used to hold the cover in place) are cut from the walls of a Chinese food container. This seems to be rigid enough to hold the cover but flexible enough to bend into place on the inside of the bumper hole. I have usedsmall bolts holding the tabs to the lids but I reckon a decent adhesive would do the job just as well. Just leave the edges free for flexibility. The curly plastic lanyard is a failsafe, in the unlikely event the cover comes off at speed ( ehich it hasn't). Any questions, just ask. Some more pics

I can only speak for Austria; the key phrase is the 2000 lumen limit. Additionally, LED lights are measured differently than xenon lights.

Hi, The first thing to check, are there any fuses blow? Other than that, I haven’t any positive ideas🤞 John

Fabia mk4 - 110hp – 6 speed manual. In city driving (start-stop system mostly deactivated) consumption is usually about 37-40 mpg. About the same as in the city i see when travelling at highway with the cruise control set at 80 m/hour. In country roads with relax and “eco” driving i manage the best results about 52-54 mpg. I can’t see how it can go better than this… All numbers based on what trip computer indicates

It’s the indicator that phone is in the wireless charger. From the owners manual…

Probably a good idea to replace plugs anyway and see if it makes any difference plus you then know plugs are good. If it doesnt improve get the car scanned for misfires etc. Someone on here will know the best most reliable make. Alasdair

I would have a new set ready to fit if you do not have a service history for the plugs being changed.

Yes they have the armour around them, they are even ziptied so I guess they have been previously replaced. I still havent checked the sparkplugs so it will be a task for the weekend.

Knowing the Irish NCT they would fail it for not having a leveller or jet washer, I've heard people with Factory HIDs on Leon's fail for that and they ended up having to convert them to halogens.

Osram H7 Led legal for MK3 in Austria

There are brighter H7 halogen bulbs from major manufacturers such as Osram and Philips. Your headlights are not type approved for LED bulbs (look at the codes on the corner of the lens) so anything other than a halogen bulb is not road legal anywhere in the EU.

Hi there. I had a detachable towbar fitted to my L &K estate in March 2025 and could not believe the amount of crap that had accumulated inside the rear bumper in the 9 months since I got the car, because of this very same hole. I put the same question to my local Skoda dealer who did not know. In the end I made a custom cover myself out of the black plastic lid of an old storage box, cut to shape, and some bits from the shed. It seems to work quite well. As soon as the rain stops I will post a couple of pics which will hopefully inspire you and others in the same position.

Many thanks for the above. Agreed a Scala is an obvious one to look at. As indeed I did a fortnight ago..... the floor to sill is too high. So is the Fabia and, of course, so is the Kamiq and Karoq. On paper the Leon has the lowest sill of them all. I haven't actually put the tape measure to the Leon yet but on paper it's OK. She has tried getting into a Corolla (which happened to be an estate) and it was OK - and on paper it's also OK. And the Estate has a good size boot too (as does the Leon Estate) and it's automatic. Appreciate the advice re. Autotrader. Certainly didn't fancy Ebay and I haven't got a Facebook account and have had little luck with my limited experience of Gumtree - but hadn't even considered that anyway. My Yeti is 2011 1.2 DSG SE with cloth seats and no modifications or extras other than the steel wheels and Goodyear AllSeasons (if they were to be offered with the car) 45,491 miles. No paintwork at all, no accident damage. Spare wheel unused. Muscovado colour (sort of gold metallic). I'm fairly confident about finding a buyer given it's condition, mileage and provenance but would need to get a couple of opinions regarding value. I did just one online check on a website and looked at others on offer on Autotrader and it seems as though the ones of a similar age (older and younger) with one owner and mileage in the 40k's go for a premium - which is encouraging. One or two of the nicer sounding ones had some really high prices, but that's always the case is it not? Anyway, further thanks .... your thoughts were helpful.

If you wanna try quicker way use drill and soft polishing pad with farecla g3 etc But if those are bad then sanding or new ones.

Not strictly EVs but it's a growing (problem?) in modern cars - touchscreens, bigger screens, more and more screens.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0_UpIgmjZk

Three bolts and Lower Suspension arm is out with mine. Details I found were:- ''VW 504 is a FS LL 5W 30 C3 oil and is better at reducing engine wear with a HT/HS viscosity of 3.5 cP than a C5 oil. VW 508, VW 509 is a FS LL 0W 20 C5 oil has a HT/HS viscosity of 2.6- 2.9 cP. They can improve fuel economy by 1%. Engines using this oil will suffer more engine wear than one using a C3 oil. 5W oil is still a flowing liquid at -30°C. 0W oil is still a flowing liquid at -35°C. ACEA C3 ''Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use as catalyst compatible oil in vehicles with DPF and TWC in high performance car and light van diesel and petrol engines, with a minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa.s. These oils will increase the DPF and TWC life.'' As apposed to C5 :- ACEA C5 ''ACEA C5 oils are high performance, lower SAPS lubricants. The primary goal of ACEA C5 oils is increased fuel economy in high performance petrol and diesel engines in passenger cars where advanced after-treatment systems such as Diesel Particulate Filters and Three Way Catalysts are used. HTHS viscosity must be in the range 2.6 to 2.9mPa.s (i.e. low) - typically SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 and made with Group III base oils.'' HT/HS Viscosity Ranges for Low-SAPS Lubricants HT/HS is the abbreviation for High Temperature/High Shear. It represents the viscosity of multi-grade engine oils at 150°C. According to the ACEA European Oil Sequences 2016, for classes C1 and C2, HT/ HS viscosity values need to be higher than 2.9 mPas. C3 and C4 oils have higher HT/ HS viscosity values (3.6 mPas), C5 engine oils have the lowest HT/ HS viscosity of at least 2.6 mPas. Unsurprisingly, thicker engine oils with higher HT / HS viscosity provide the engine with better anti-wear features. On the other hand, low HT/ HS viscosity enhances fuel economy but has lower protective features.'' Thanks. AG Falco

crazy price AFAIK they sell original and costs about 80EUR aliexpress.com/item/1005006263043091.html

Barney, There are more than a few videos on the tube of you. I did my old mk6 Passat a few years ago after watching a few of those videos, if you have a few basic tools it’s about 45 minutes out in the cold and your light will be greatly improved. I used this guys method and used from 600 to 3,000 wet and dry. https://youtu.be/jjD8v5ar0qA John

But then Skoda couldn't charge you for fixing it.

Yes, I’m agree my type of usage can be problematic. Often parked for a week or so and then a 300-400 mile motorway trip. I use a trickle charger to try to keep the battery conditioned after having a few electrical gremlins the winter before last which I think were caused by the battery running too low. Anyone any experience of the Meyle HD bushes or arms please before I take the plunge?

Latest Updated Speedcams - October, 2025. Once again here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( October, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - October, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

Nothing wrong with putting a higher rating on a car - I'd just avoid going lower. The cars (MQB) are developed with Bridgestone, apparently, but that doesn't mean they're any good. My personal leaderboard, that I would choose from - 1) Michelin 2) Continental 3) Goodyear 4) Falken 5) Avon 6) Pirelli 7) Bridgestone 8) Everything else I've had good experiences with Maxxis too, actually. I tend not to keep anything spare anymore - I did for a good two/three years, and then realised that if I ripped the budget tyre off, there wasn't really a scenario in which a good 225/40R18 wouldn't be available.

For starters, the servicing interval keeps shortening over the past 20 years. Originally when they appeared, there were claims of DSG gearboxes being sealed for life, then it was 80k miles, then 40k miles, then you can see recommendations of doing it at least every 4 years. Currrent list of mileage based is here at TPS together with the key phrase "the increase in vehicles fitted with DSG gearboxes presents increased opportunities for workshops" 🙃 Compare this with any manual VW gearbox servicing, theoretically lifetime, in practice an oil change every 100k miles / 6 years, whichever shorter, is enough to keep it going for 200k+ miles / 12+ years. I have been using 6 years/100k miles interval on my cars for the past 25 years, all the way to ~220k miles on one of them, and past 12 year mark on a couple of them. Regarding DSG gearbox failures, they range from premature clutch wear ("clutch packs") through sensor and control electronics failures ("mechatronics") to in-cabin switchgear failures (e.g. gear lever switch). That is before the interaction between ageing engine torque and an automatic gearbox is taken into account, which was/is also an issue on older style automatic gearboxes, even the tiptronic ones (a lot of old Audi engines are chipped for extra torque just to restore smooth gearbox shifts and prevent dropping into lower gear when an older engine cannot produce sufficient torque and the gearbox insists on driving a gear lower). An example summary of multiple DQ200 DSG box autopsies is here. In summary, my opinion is that if one is happy with manual gearbox and intends to drive the car for more than 10 years / 100k miles, a DSG gearbox will be/is a disappointment from maintenance cost and hassle (of going to the dealer more often) point of view. Shame that car manufacturers are forcibly removing manual vs automatic gearbox choice or restricting it to low powered engines only, knowing full well this shortens the average lifetime of a car (in line with their accountant's wet dreams of disposable cars with 7-9 years hard restricted lifetime). Aside from loathsome attitude, it is also not very eco friendly design choice, as on average, most emissions of a car are in making its materials, production of components, assembly and utilisation/recycling, not the actual driving. Shortening the life of a car by various dubious means is probably far worse for the polar bears than driving a manual gearbox diesel 🙃

This is absolutely extraordinary, I must be the only person here who has actually USED Rivnuts and I can categorically tell you that they are plenty strong enough because the bolt you wind into the set Rivnut actually tightens the fixing clamping it even harder.

I don't know which Rivnuts you've been using but they work exactly like a pop rivetter and require no access to the back, otherwise why would I make such a stupid suggestion?