Leaderboard

Here is mine, for those struggling one finding like I was VID-20251227-WA0016.mp4

A 2015 Octavia won't have a clutch mechanism on the AC pump, it's a variable displacement pump.

I'm already reading it. But even you weren't entirely sure which pins the BCM actually has at first. Only after getting help did you use Leuchte8FL LB39, where that pin is located. If your BCM is different from the other user's, it could be different. There's a reason there are so many different BCM variants. The conversion is very well done, no question.

yeah sometimes, but then so does google maps at times

you have to remember that 5 years ago when the Scottish Government was installing those 50 kW chargers that was pretty much state of the art. The private sector was nowhere to be seen. And Ionity at 43p ain't so bad. Glad you liked the video :-)

Need to replace lead wires to longer https://www.drive2.ru/l/659269097233580313/

I said Mk3 Fabie. & the Service Sheets showed 2 years before 2016. Nothing regarding VW. Yes above which i posted from the 2018 & 19 and 20 versions many many rimes, a the 2021. showing DSG @ 40,000 even though the DQ200 & DQ381 were not. Never has been by year, so at 4 years unless the miles covered. Then the Haldex was @ 4 years / 40,000 miles until Skoda got to 3 years / 30,000 miles. The Air Filter at 6 years / 60,000 miles is a joke. Some never even checked them at the Services before that. No sign of the VAQ diff in that.

It's finally there! 28th october ordered, 27th december delivered! So far a superb car!

It's my third Octavia vRS now, I don't need the size, I just love the car, and this certainly hasn't disappointed!

I love it but I won't be having another Octy, they're too expensive and also I don't need a big car anymore. That [censored] in No.11 has killed off any plans for another RS. So a Fabia 130 maybe in order, but not enamoured by the limited colours!

AI: In the fourth-generation Škoda Superb (2024+), setting the 4x4 drive to Sport mode within the Individual settings primarily changes the torque distribution logic and the system's "eagerness." Here is a breakdown of what happens technically: 1. Proactive Torque Distribution In Normal mode, the 4x4 system (using the 6th generation all-wheel-drive coupling) is reactive, meaning it waits for a hint of front-wheel slip before sending significant power to the rear. In Sport mode, the system becomes proactive. It sends more torque to the rear wheels immediately during takeoff or when accelerating out of a corner, even before any slip occurs. 2. Rear-Axle Bias While the Superb remains a front-biased car, the Sport setting increases the clamping force on the AWD coupling more frequently. The Result: The car feels more stable through corners, provides better "push" out of turns, and significantly reduces understeer (the sensation of the front end pushing wide). 3. Faster Response Times The control unit communicates with sensors (steering angle, lateral G-force, throttle position) at a higher frequency. The system is essentially "primed" to react to changes in grip instantly. 4. Synergy with ESC When you set the 4x4 to Sport, it works best in tandem with the ESC Sport setting. This combination allows for a tiny bit of wheel slip, which, combined with the active rear axle, allows for much more dynamic handling, especially on wet or snowly surfaces.

The heating itself is working. But I cannot activate a 3 levels of heating turning on via steering wheel button. On the pre fl steering wheel - it can be done vie MIB unit. But on the fl version - the activation is moved to the button on steering wheel.

AI: In the fourth-generation Škoda Superb (2024+), setting the 4x4 drive to Sport mode within the Individual settings primarily changes the torque distribution logic and the system's "eagerness." Here is a breakdown of what happens technically: 1. Proactive Torque Distribution In Normal mode, the 4x4 system (using the 6th generation all-wheel-drive coupling) is reactive, meaning it waits for a hint of front-wheel slip before sending significant power to the rear. In Sport mode, the system becomes proactive. It sends more torque to the rear wheels immediately during takeoff or when accelerating out of a corner, even before any slip occurs. 2. Rear-Axle Bias While the Superb remains a front-biased car, the Sport setting increases the clamping force on the AWD coupling more frequently. The Result: The car feels more stable through corners, provides better "push" out of turns, and significantly reduces understeer (the sensation of the front end pushing wide). 3. Faster Response Times The control unit communicates with sensors (steering angle, lateral G-force, throttle position) at a higher frequency. The system is essentially "primed" to react to changes in grip instantly. 4. Synergy with ESC When you set the 4x4 to Sport, it works best in tandem with the ESC Sport setting. This combination allows for a tiny bit of wheel slip, which, combined with the active rear axle, allows for much more dynamic handling, especially on wet or snowly surfaces.

There are two distinct issues and they occur on many VAG models with this design of filler flap latch and acutator. One is the latch sticking in the filler flap, since it has to rotate through an angle to latch and unlatch. This can be mitigated with silicone spray or graphite lubricant, which will need repeat treatment whenever it washes away. The other issue is actuator failure, which needs a replacement solenoid. It's a really crummy design with two flaws, and it has gone un-fixed for at least 10 years, as it occurs on a family Leon from 2014 as well as a 2023 Karoq. Typical VAG to keep on pushing out a cheap failing part for more than a decade.

Try a length of garden hose. Put one end to your ear and move the other around the area where the noise is. You should be able to pinpoint where its coming from or at least narrow it down a fair bit. Check theres no damage or wear on alternator belt or alternator bearings. Had one fail and alternator fan was hitting the casing slightly making a tappet noise. It may be the tensioner or timing belt/water pump. When was it last changed. Alasdair

Hello, as far as I know, this update method is for maps. Updates via USB with data and meta folders are complete when the word “resume” appears. For maps, it is important to activate the navigator to start and, when finished, the navigation database will be more recent.

Many thanks Nigel for your reply that's really helpful, I'll have a good look at it and see if there's anything going on + try the lubricant idea then if that doesn't work, replace it 👍🏻

A generic OBD dongle unfortunately won't even be able to read all the car's control modules. Needs something more VAG specific, e.g. VCDS, Obdeleven or Carista, to be able to read fault codes in all modules and also report them in in a format you can understand (text description rather than just code number). I use Carista dongle but rather than pay for Carista subscription, I use Car Scanner Pro app which was from recollection less than a tenner to buy with no on-going costs. Or there are Briskoda members with VCDS who can help, worst case in exchange for a beer token or two. There may be one local to you - Until you can scan all modules you are in the dark. But based on the symptoms it sounds like this could be down to issue with a wheel speed ABS sensor, so many seemingly unrelated systems use data from these sensors e.g. traction control, headlamp AFS, steering. When I had an ABS sensor fail, dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree and also generated multiple warning messages in the Maxidot screen. The good news is that if this is the root cause here then it's a relatively quick and cheap fix with replacement sensors common to many VAG cars (so plenty of copy parts available if you want to go down that route).

Early this morning when we arrived home, SHMBO graciously agreed to check on my reversing lights. There are 2……. This is on the Superb 2025 SE L version. I hope all versions follow suit 🤞 John

Hi tjn2060, thanks for this. There was no padlock icon on the screen for me assuming I'd pressed the right ones of course. I pressed the '4 squares' icon - bottom left, then 'seats', then 'rear' and landed on a screen very similar to the photo in your post. Then at second attempt, I found a screen that was exactly as you described, and all sorted, thanks again.

Sons is the same. I think on his its slightly worn rear bushes. Not sure what to lubricate with. I was thinking a silicone spray. Alasdair

If its not wiring then it could also be a problem with the steering angle sensor not being calibrated properly. If a manual reset doesnt work I read it may have to be done while driving and using obd11 or vcds which is a bit beyond me but someone on here will know. Alasdair

Hi, welcome. As well as the various model sections on Briskoda if you have not already seen it there is a 'Diagnostics & VCDS' section where some members have various levels of experience and knowledge in different formats including OBDEleven. Good luck. 'Diagnostics & VCDS' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Some pics (not my car) below of the cable pass through. Shows u how it looks like, from both sides. Good luck with the install. Thanks. Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year to u too. Inside... Engine bay side....

Most of my mileage is 20 plus miles each way or greater. Longer runs a couple of times a month. Very few “domestic” short runs 2 a week at most, on average, I’m not in a hurry and try to avoid peak hours (I’m retired and it’s travelling for my hobbies mostly).

Thanks again JR! Ordering the whole bcm connectror was smart, like u said no errors in connectors. All items are on order now, hopefully they will arrive next week so i can get to work on this project. Regarding the cable passthrough to the engine bay i assume as i have a LHD car that the grommet will probably be on the drivers-side somwhere, as the battery is also located on the drivers-side. Cheked my BCM coding and i also had the two channels available that u posted on ur earlier posts, RB2 and LB39, probably going to use the LB39 just like u did with the same codings. I will make a post also about this with more pics and stuff when i get it done, and gather all this info to one post for easyer followups for others who want to do the same! Merry Christmas and happy new years! -S

If you look at the attachment on post 1 of here I attached all of the Vag pdfs on how to do it https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/updating-the-inbuilt-mib3-satnav-offline.472408/#post-5030964 Vag sites loose some of the information as they reorganise the site. The Skoda map update pdf for mib3 is there. In the thread I reproduce MartiniBs map file links. Nudging it to start is covered but it will just pick it up once you push ignition then the process starts off. Similar to mib2 high map update it has a restart point if you turn off the ignition before its completed. So all of those on and offs sum to 40 minutes or so but get extended by the overlap time of the update. The fly in the ointment as mib2 high is that the unit will do a signature check on the integrity of the files on the USB before it will actually kick off the update. It wont say you have failed the integrity check, just wont do the update. The integrity check is failed if you dont present all files as required as per the pdf. No being clever. No edits. No nothing. No Macs. If you do use a Mac use CleanMydrive to remove Mac garbage from the file once the files are in the drive. Macs put some funny carriage, return line feed combination on to the files. The integrity check will look at the signature on the file do it's own thing and say these have been messed with, but won't tell you that. So file presentation is crucial and has to be exact. Some old 7zip programs can give an issue so updating 7zip is useful. The built in File Explorer of Window 10 / 11 can be used for the unzip. Another source of issues is not using exFat on the USB people have bees in their bonnet and want to use NTFS, dont. Another issue can be the use of usb a to usb c (anyhow the oval one) adapters. Some adapters are not fully wired for data just power. Why the Skoda recommends their Skoda one. Cupra recommends a Cupra badged one. Cheap ebay ones may not be fully wired. If you do need to use a USB a connection, get a reversible pen drive that has both on it or read the advert and make sure it says fully wired.

And again - same spot in 2015. I recall this was my first time using a phone with an ability to take reasonable photos handheld in near darkness. Prior to this I was carting an SLR and tripod around

I stood virtually in the same spot - took with a HTC One (M8) back in 2016

Admittedly this is rather off topic. The boring stats are as follows: Mitsubishi Space Runner 172K miles (from new) 1995 to 2004 - cost 5p per mile maintenance Mazda Premacy 160K (ex demo 6 months old) 2004 to 2013 7 p per mile maintenance VW Touran 108K from new 2013 -2024 9 p per mile maintenance Skoda Karoq from 1100 miles (used 6 months old) 2024 - current 2p per mile maintenance. Fiat Punto 30K miles from 9,000 miles (Used 1 yr ) 1998 - 2016 11p per mile maintenance Skoda Fabia 20K miles from 900 miles (used 1 yr old) 2016 - current 23p per mile maintenance Interestingly it is the low mileage cars that have the higher cost per mile, the 3 high mileage vehicles cost per mile when allowing for inflation is probably very similar.

If the drivers side front is dry I would look at the seals of the rear door or perhaps seals around window. Mine used to leak due to the window seals leaking and also the protective plastic inner door liner becoming unattached. Check theres no rubber grommets in floor etc that are missing under carpet etc as well. Alasdair

Use the warrenty

My Skoda connect app says the code in inspect --> car details

Latest Updated Speedcams - October, 2025. Once again here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( October, 2025 ). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Redlight Speedcams, Fixed Speedcams ( which now include European tunnel speedcams ), Average Speedcams and Variable Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams - October, 2025.zip * Credit to jungblume2005 from Gpsurl for the use of his database which was used and converted in order to compile these files.

Can anyone tell me what the two blue led lights by the SOS eCall button mean? I can’t find anything in the godawful online manual.

Those leds light up the middle section where the cup holders are. During night, the light is faint but noticeable - check it out for yourself.

It's ambient lighting. Colour and brightness can be adjusted on the touchscreen.

I've always been in two minds abour whether brake fluid change is simply a rip-off, and it's always miffed me with VW service plans that the brake fluid change isn't included. Quite how they get away with this on "All In" is a mystery to me. I notice it is now included on EVs (the intro of which has caused VW to change the first change to 2yrs from 3). Last time I refused it at £80 and when I picked the car up the dealer said they'd done it as goodwill - some justification that the servicing had got messed up as they did a longlife service as the car's first service. Using the Skoda website for my local dealer brake fluid change now adds an incredible £108.52 to the cost. I wondered what Audi charge, so used a random Q3 registration - local dealer £52 and all the local Audi dealers (the Audi site shows the pricing for them all) are in the £50-£60 range.