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It's purely coincidental. This is taken from another post a week or two ago - The difference between '95' and '99' fuels (and others) are a few things. Firstly, the more premium fuels have a higher octane. This makes no difference unless you are driving a 488 Pista, or a heavily tuned car. It is true that your car may run a little better (higher mpg, etc), but this is only true because a given amount of fuel has more 'go' in it - it's a moot point, as the more effective fuel, is more expensive. This difference is also quoted to be around 2%. Not worth it. The second difference is the (bio)ethanol content - E5 vs E10. E10 is the cheaper stuff, and contains, you guessed it, 10% of bioethanol. This stuff isn't the kindest to seals, hoses, etc, but unless you're driving a Mk1 GTI, you should be absolutely fine. The nicer fuels tend to have up to 5% of bioethanol in them (sometimes none), which makes them older car friendly. Finally, the premium fuels also contain additives and cleaning agents that help keep things running smoothly. This is the only real advantage of using premium fuels and, even then, can likely be achieved by using a bit of 99 once every few fill-ups. I run my car on 99 because I can. It doesn't make much sense to, if I'm honest, and I definitely wouldn't be putting tanks of the stuff through a 1.5 - total waste of money. Given that you do the miles, I'd personally put in some nicer stuff once every three fill ups. Sorted.

We have just got our 2014 Citigo back from having the rear offside panel replaced under the Škoda 12 year anti perforation warranty, we have owned the car from new and having a full Škoda service history including the extended scope inspections were crucial to this successful warranty claim, which also included the fitting of wheel arch liners to prevent the rust returning

Nice one scotjimland. It pays to be persistent. Well done you. SW

The microswitch is in the geared device that slows the opening and closing mech.

Thanks for replies. The main car battery has not been tested. Car is 9 yrs old. Owned car 3 yrs. Don’t know if battery is original but seems likely. Car starts fine and stop start works. I have now cut alarm siren open. Pic of it attached so anyone having problems with this can see model number and the inside - 2 x AAA rechargeable batteries which slot in - not soldered in. One of these reads 1.33v , one at 1.27v in series so total 2.6v so doesn’t seem too bad. But I replaced the batteries today with new energiser rechargeable batteries. Alarm now seems fine, but it’s probably too soon to be sure. Will update if it turns out to be dodgy still. And I will check the current drain when car locked up. Thanks for replies

Hi everyone, My name is Patrick from Lisbon/Portugal and I am the owner of a Skoda Octavia Sportline DSG from 2010. It's just a wonderfull car to drive and enjoy. ☺️

Yes the reservoir is both clutch and brakes. Its design from memory is that the clutch outlet is higher than brakes so if clutch leaks you still have brakes. It may be that the garage let the fluid get too low when bleeding brakes and some air has got into clutch system or by pure coincidence the master/slave is failing. If not leaking it could be fluid getting past the seals. It first needs the clutch bled and if that doesn't improve it I would look at master for leaks(on mine the fluid ended up on undertray) The slave on mine is external but the actuator rod that operates clutch is internal so difficult to see if leaking. It is removable without Gbox removal to check if its leaking or look at bottom of bellhousing for signs of clutch fluid. As said I would get clutch bled first and take it from there. Alasdair

Winter pack gives you front and rear heated seats, tri-climate control and heated windscreen. The are currently four main trim levels (SE L, Edition, Sportline and vRS) which give you different levels of main specifications. Then you get three main packages (Plus, Advanced and Maxx) which add various enhancements. The there are smaller add on packs that give you various other options such as a towbar etc. Loft, Lodge and Suite are interior finish options. The best thing to do is go on the Škoda website and build your own new car in the car configurator. This will take you through all of the different options and walk you through the contents of each package. You can find it here: https://cc.skoda-auto.com/gbr/en-GB/trimline-scenic?_gl=1%2A1qqnnta%2A_gcl_aw%2AR0NMLjE3NzY3NzI3NDkuRUFJYUlRb2JDaE1JMzY3SG9QTC1rd01WU1p4UUJoMGQ4Zy04RUFBWUFTQUFFZ0wtSHZEX0J3RQ..%2A_gcl_dc%2AR0NMLjE3NzY3NzI3NDkuRUFJYUlRb2JDaE1JMzY3SG9QTC1rd01WU1p4UUJoMGQ4Zy04RUFBWUFTQUFFZ0wtSHZEX0J3RQ..%2A_gcl_au%2AMTAyNjU5Nzk2NC4xNzc2NzcyNzQ1&activePage=trimlines&color=K4K4&configurationId=&extraEquipments=&id=GBR%3Bskoda%3B2026%3BPYLGJ2%3B1%3BGYONYON%3Bmda20260413145914%3Ben-GB%3B%3B62002%3B62062&interior=TP&mbvcode=PYLGJ2&modelcode=PY&modifiedPages=&pagegroup=Website&replace=true&salesprogram=GBR&snapshotVersion=3e470311-211c-405c-bd71-f964a9234798&trimline=PYG%7CSE%20L%20606206262002&visitedPages= You can also search for Škoda approved nearly new and new vehicles on the Škoda UK website. Have a good read through everything on the configurator and if you still have questions then come back to the forum and ask away. Hope that helps?

Yeah it does share the same master cylinder from what I've been told before. The symptoms would be air I'm the system but I think the garage I used are just trying to fob me off. This is why I hate using places I don't really trust.

At last, a n offer from Skoda customer services that I've accepted .. 21 April 2026 Skoda Customer Services have a applied a "goodwill gesture' offering me £600 off the cost of a Skoda fitted towbar, coding and electrics.. .. the balance to pay is now £1390 .. which in effect refunds me the cost of my third party towbar that will be removed ..

A dealer tech on one of the FB groups has the opinion that meddling with the setup is potentially more damaging than leaving it alone. Of course if it's done completely by the book with the correct parts & tools, that shouldn't be the case, but... He also reckons he's never seen an instance of a petrol Karoq with a snapped belt.

Yes that's the seat ventilation switch.

Absolutely! In regards to the potential piston ring issue. We can only advise. Though, have you removed the injectors and used a borescope to inspect the cylinder walls? If you have any scoring then it would look like a ring issue. This would give you a better indication of whats going on, and if they are scored, then youll not be wondering anymore. But then this may also be delaying the inevitable of starting the dreaded job. After reading and researching about the problem the past month or so, some seem to have gotten away with removing the pistons, cleaning and fitting new rings. But this would depend on a number of things, such as piston/cylinder wall condition etc. When i was worrying about it, I thought about buying a second hand CUPA/CUNA block, having that machined 0.5mm oversize to match the new pistons, then swap everything over. Saves having the car out of action for longer, waiting for your original block to be machined. You could then get your original block machined with new pistons and sell it on, try to recoup some of the money spent to sort the issue.

Try TIMPSON,s Shoe repairers & key cutters. 3 in the Bristol area. They can code keys. Well some can.

When mine was using as much as it was, there was no indication from the exhaust that it was burning oil, I couldn't see any blue smoke etc. How much oil is the car using? As above VW tend to say 1 litre in 1200 miles is "normal". However, in my personal opinion and experience in working in maintenance engineering for 15 years, its far from normal. Service covers, and bonnets should only be opened when there is a breakdown or service required, having to open the bonnet once a month to top off oil is far from ideal. Especially with the technology and tolerances we work to in this day and age. Might be worth putting some engine flush through, letting it circulate, then change oil and filter with the LiquiMoly 4200 and using the ceratec. If youre planning on a strip down and machine anyway, then theres no harm in spending 80 quid just see what happens.

Here’s a link to the Škoda UK Octavia accessory brochure. One photo of a roof box on the car.

Thanks again Warrior193. I used an infra-red thermometer on all 4 brakes when I returned home today, and the nearside rear brake is definitely hotter than all the rest (about 34 degrees C, compaared with about 22C for the other 3); there is also scoring, as per my previous comments. The car is still ripping through fuel ! :-( Not fun. I have found a couple of videos which try to suggest how to remove the rear caliper, but none is clear enough to show me exactly how it is done... nor which size spanner or Allen socket to use... nor where... Can any of you very kind folks please suggest how to unstick this rear caliper or recomment a good video for this. I am absolutely determined to fix this myself !! ? Apparenty, it's a bit more complex than the front one? Oh, how I wish that I was not so ignorant about car service... Sorry, guys ! (Somewhere to live was more important than something to drive... and most of my cars were company vehicles anyway... hence why I am a greenhorn!). Thanks again, folks.

We've got both in the family - oddly both immediately pre-facelift cars, as circumstances meant we needed each vehicle quickly: Wife has 22 Karoq 1.5 SEL DSG and daughter has late 23 Kamiq 1.0 SEL manual.

Have a good check of the tyres. My old Seat altea warning used to come on due to a tyre being slightly out of round. I kept resetting and checking but didnt notice tyre at first an assumed it was a sensor but after a few weeks car developed a wobble you felt through seat and one was slightly deformed. I jacked each wheel up and lowered onto a flat board with tyre just touching then spun wheels and found one was about 1cm out of round with a weird twist in it. Expensive day as the tyre service pointed out the age of tyres and said I needed all four as if one had gone the chances are the others may follow. I trust the tyre place. They are decent and have been using them for at least 40 years. Alasdair

Switching off the lane assist has become automatic for me every time I get in the car. Two button presses and it’s off, then one button press to turn off start-stop and I’m away.

(separate post due to size limitations) step 3 press the left button below the right hand scroller you changed it with in the above steps for 5 seconds and let go. voila the menu to reset. the button is the one with the left arrow and the little boxes on it I reset my oil service warning and now it is gone.

now that above post was usefull. howerever it works a bit different on a superb. after some faffing around i just found it. step 1 select the left hand instrument panel with the right side scroller by clicking it step 2 select the "total Distance" km/miles in there with the right side scroller by scrolling up or down

@pab567, a big thanks 👌👍

Very annoying indeed. I gave up on letting my Enyaq 85 wake up to strat charging. The price drops at 22:00 hours (10PM) so I start charging manually. I know this will not help you, but it is all I can say.

If my garage left the strainer full of that cr*p, I'd be looking for a new garage PDQ!

Thanks for that Aardvark. I recall skoda directing me to a local aftermarket fitter to fit a towbar at the time I purchased the car. Anyway its done now. I will just have to put up with the inconvenience of switching off the automated rear braking system, when I have a trailer on. As timnus said, mabye years from now we will get to claim against the manufacturer for mis information. Pity. The car I'd fantastic otherwise. Thanks all.

Yikes

Okay

Awesome

I am selling my 2018 Karoq Edition soon due to ill health. Will the buyer ask me for the radio code? It is not written in the manual or on any of the service documents. Thank you. Kevin