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Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

Many thanks for the comments. We went ahead and simply got the battery changed at a different branch of Halfords. The guy there didn't quibble at all. All now seems good, stop-start working properly, no warning lights. Fingers crossed! Cheers.

So after owning my 2012 octavia vrs for over 9 years, she's been sold today. A sad day, its been a fantastic car, ive enjoyed working on it and making changes ive learnt alot from the forum (and hopefully helped some people too) Now been replaced with a alfa romeo giulia which may or may not prove as reliable as my skod but it sure is a great car to drive. Might be back in a skoda one day. See you in the mist Regards Tom

I think not, those are the ones that hold the tray under the engine that I took off for oil change

Can't say I blame you, love my Enyaq, but the i5 deals look great. I'm thinking about an i350 when my Enyaq goes back, 550 mile range, 400kW fast charging, 645Nm. Technology is moving so fast in the EV market. Fast charge 250 miles in 10 mins etc.

Cheers @MP74 , I was happy with the size of the Enyaq, and it would've been big enough for my requirements...however a crazy lease deal on the i5 Touring made the decision for me. Like the ID 7, the I5 is a massive lump and I've been able to get loads in it!

Trivial, ignore it.

+ 1 from me plus i would check the altenator. Many years back an aftermarket alarm beeper was causing me almost the same ''drain'' problem, i remove it and my battery was as it should be.

No SFD 2 / UNEC Car

Try removing fuse 43 overnight and see if battery is happier for it. Just a hunch. If you haven't already, it's a good idea to take a photo of the cabin fusebox, to help with correctly refitting any fuses that may get pulled during fault finding. The image below shows a generic layout for (RHD) mk1 Fabia, but there are quite a few variations depending on engine type and fitted equipment, so there may well be more gaps than shown, leading to it being easy to forget where things were even if you only take one fuse out at a time.

Double click switches off movement and tilt sensors. That's what you do when travelling on ferries.

On the front caliper the fact that when you tapped it it released it may be that the piston is sticking in your front caliper or the slider pins are seizing/seized. Too many garages use copper grease instead of silicone grease on the slider pins and copper grease eventually dries and seizes them plus wrecks rubber gators. If its was ABS related then I would have thought both front calipers would be affected. If you have discs on the rear the lever that operates the handbrake on mine is prone to seizing on. Have had two now that the rear brake was binding due to handbrake not releasing properly. If it was a problem with ABS I reckon it would have shown ABS warning light or at least stored a fault code. I would get someone to scan with vcds to check. If its going to a garage I would get them to strip down and check/clean and relubricate calipers. Alasdair

I'd be inclined to wire brush it, treat it with a rust converter and paint it, or Waxoyl it.

What year is the car, please?

I've just fitted Bosch A860S aerotwin to my 2015 vrs estate. Exactly what I had on before. No issues with last set and rhd.

Yep. Different blade profiles and they spin opposite directions. LH CW RH CCW From front

+1 There’s plenty of these cars out there. If you have a bad feeling, or lots of issues, that’s enough. It sounds like it hasn’t been looked after very well, and it hasn’t been prepped for sale. I would get your money back and give it to another Skoda garage. If it’s the right car for you then don’t be dissuaded - my 245 quite literally hasn’t put a foot wrong! Some cars are just lemons.

This morning, I performed a cold start, and a Start-Stop system error appeared immediately (though the Check Engine Light / MIL remained off). After a 15-minute drive, I stopped at a gas station to refuel. The vehicle was stationary for about 5 minutes. Upon restarting, I drove 10 meters to the main road and stopped; the Start-Stop system engaged correctly, and the engine stalled/shut down as intended. After another 10 minutes of driving, I stopped in a traffic queue, but the engine failed to shut down. I checked the vehicle status menu, which displayed a Start-Stop error. Five minutes later, I cycled the ignition (turned the car off and on) about 100 meters before my destination. The start-stop error cleared, and upon reaching the parking spot, the engine shut down automatically. After the car sat for 5 hours, I took a short trip (under 5 mins), and the Start-Stop error reappeared instantly. Following a 30-minute soak time, the error persisted on the return trip. Again, I cycled the ignition shortly before parking; the system reset, and the engine shut down normally at the destination. Scanning the vehicle with OBD11 revealed the old P25AB00 Piston Cooling Oil Control Circuit High. Toward the end of the day, the Check Engine Light (CEL) illuminated, and the Start-Stop system became permanently disabled. The service center is currently in contact with Škoda’s technical support for consultation. They are awaiting a response. They've also double-checked the bypass and used a cleaner spray on the contacts. Interestingly, the fault did not reappear at the service center after they inspected the car, cleared the codes, and performed a 40 km test drive with over 20 ignition cycles. During their testing, the car reached full operating temperature. In contrast, when I'm driving, the error occurs very quickly—usually after just a few trips. Will report back :)

Which Car? Skoda released the SFD 2 protection at most two months before the EU deadline. I've had plenty of MY24 vehicles without SFD 2. I can tell you exactly if you send me the VIN via PM. The Kodiaq 2 and Superb 4 were exceptions. Regarding a diagnostic tool, what features do you want to be able to use? For data set and firmware flashing, I definitely recommend VC Tool. For everything else, Car Scanner Pro is sufficient. OBD 11 costs a monthly/annual subscription. VCDS is too expensive without VIN restrictions. VCP costs an annual subscription if you want the latest version. VC Tool also costs money, monthly/annually, but offers the most features. It requires a VAS 6154a dongle.

Probably yes as it’s mainly MY24 onwards cars affected. I own OBDII, VCDS (HEX-NET) and also had VCP. For me VCDS was / is always my ‘go to’ device.

How long the 12v battery lasts depends on the driver's use of the car's electrics and how and when it is driven. To extend the useful life of the battery and potentially prevent all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues, it is best to do full (100%, s/s VW only goes to about 80% by programing) preventative recharges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer (doesn't have to be an expensive one). Recharge by following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. The engine not starting is only when the battery has been taken very low indeed well before that even if the headlights seem bright enough the battery can be in a too low state of charge for the computer systems that will then make you suffer with all all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues. Loads of threads and posts for all the stop/start models on this site with the unexpected issues from having the battery too low for what the computers like. Batteries are expensive and there can be the additional cost and hassle of 'coding' the new battery into the car's computer system. A battery in good state of charge and health will help the car (and alternator) whereas one in a low state of charge and health can hinder in many ways. Number one reason for breakdown callouts is for battery and charging problems many of which would not have been the fault of the battery (or charging system). HTH.

Hi there, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with doing their own tire rotation and/or tire work. I am particularly asking about front and rear jacking points, not about the standard sills reinforced jacking points, as I am using a floor hydraulic jack and stands, which maked the sills lifting not an option - that is where I want to place the stand. Nothing useful on the Internet and the manual is a joke. Appreciate any experience you can share on this. Thanks!

Sorry ist no Plug & Play solution

Figured it out. Found a useful video on YouTube for the Mk8 Golf door which has a similar set up. If you push the left hand screw nearest the outer door edge towards the hinges it moves the lock cylinder across a few millimetres and it will slide out. I used the torx bit used to undo the screw. Simple when you know how.

Thanks, I guess we just need to run it more often - I did add cleaner additive a few months back (to a full tank), so we'll get it on the open road.

good choice

You have To Change Display, Unit, Unit must be patched. It depends on where you buy the parts, but you can expect to pay between €400 and €1000. This depends on whether you choose MIB Low or High, which display, etc.

Battery on our 2018 Karoq was still fine when we part exchanged the car for a new Karoq in March. This includes periods when it was left for a few months at a time while we were in France, always started on return without issue.

Depends on how it runs and you won't really know that without a few starts and reasonable length drives under various conditions, you were concerned with reducing possibly smokey exhaust output. As Alasdair has put car not driven, ethanol fuel settling out and sucking in moisture, moisture and oil drain in engine, are never best conditions for exhaust output alone, never mind engine. You need to get the engine up to full oil warmed temperature then if the car is running OK have the pistons and rings going at around peak torque for a reasonable time, get oil around and to clean cylinders and to have larger volumes of filtered clean air going through the engine and out of the exhaust, clearing the probe(s) a bit whilst doing so. Petrol with additional cleaner additive package will also help clean the fuel system and engine and with exhaust. The more fuel and air you can put in the more of everything that goes out the exhaust. The engine is just an air pump on four wheels.

Sand Martin hide.............. 20260504_133651~5.mp4

Love is in the air 😍 1430349~4.mp4 And a few others from today.........

You are not siphoning out so just think how you fill at a petrol station. Long tube like gun into the filler hole. So use a long funnel. ( If you were siphoning, Long Funnel and put the Siphoning tube down that.)

It’s gone back today - think I’ll be getting the money back on this and walking away

Is the car under warranty? 6 days!!! take it back abd have them fix everything or refund

Yeah... that's not right. No heat from the blowers also isn't a minor issue - sounds like that could be a blocked matrix, which will need replacing!

When it came time to sort my wheels out I got my L&K Trinity 19" diamond cut wheels powder coated gloss black to match the car paintwork. Cheaper than getting the wheels refurbed & diamond cut to the original spec & powder coating is a more durable finish. Also makes the car look a bit meaner.

I assume you referring to these satin bronze beauties? I guess I'll have to shift them on the Bay, they will probably look too small on an Elroq, it will require 55 profiles on the front and the Elroq has wider 9" rears too making an 8" rim a bit small for 255's, all a bit of a shame as I love the look of these JR's, they never look dirty too. Elroq VRS incoming.

Might be difficult to advise on as a 2026 VW Polo seems to have a different infotainment unit (image below) to any of those fitted to Skoda Mk4 models.

I've had my eye on the Racingline version (obvs) - all for preventive measures. Look neat and tidy. Is it fiddly? Do you end up losing much coolant?

That is perfect buddy, exactly what I was hoping to see, thank you 🙏 Nothing to apologise for…ours are the same this time of year, what with a lot of outdoor activities too! Off shortly to test drive the i5, so decisions, decisions…

VIOFO A329 front & rear, HK4 hardwire kit (to enable parking mode), VIOFO Bluetooth remote control. CPL on both cameras. Front camera is mounted high up on the passenger side, can only just see it behind the rear view mirror from the driver’s seat. I briefly installed a VIOFO A139 Pro on the drivers side and powered it from the USB-C socket in the mirror console but I found it a bit obtrusive there. I’ve used various VIOFO cameras over the last 10yrs, build quality is excellent and never had any problems with them. The very first one I bought 10yrs ago is still working fine in my wife’s car.

I just upgraded my OBD Eleven account from the free version to the "PRO".. I was a bit reluctant as this is €59.99 per year. But there are some things I need to do just one of which would cost me more (diagnostic scan at my local "VAGTech" (indy specialist) is £90.00....) I got to check-out and it asked "do you have a discount or promo code?" Hmm I wonder! A very brief look around the internet and came across a pointer.... Let's try this! "Enter code DRIFT for 25% store-wide discount!" And it worked! £41.97 instead of £53.00!

It would be but we don’t always remember to that’s the problem.

If you switch on the A/C with bonnet open you can probably observe directly which way they spin, can't you?